I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her vanities I am
making. Easy to make because each of us (me/wife) get five in a stack which
means they are all the same width and length, only variation is in the depth
(6 - 3 1/2", 4 - 7"). (I have five more to make later but the size is
different as is the manner of construction.)
Normally I like to make joints, including drawer grooves, an easy fit; by
that I mean I don't want to have to use a hammer to get things together but
I don't want any wobble or rattle...I want to be able to press them together
with my hands. For bottoms, I normally make the grooves VERY slightly over
the material thickness, ease the bottom's edges slightly and all goes
together well.
Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was slightly warped
and I knew it would be a bear to get everything together so I made the
grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well but naturally there is a gap
between the bottom and the groove. I fixed that by ripping off a strip of
stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that gets me a strip of wedges.
Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4" square, dab of glue, slide them into
the crack on the bottom side forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no
more rattle. Is that cheating?
And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill in a gap
in other imperfectly fitting joints?
On Monday, November 2, 2015 at 11:50:27 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her vanities I am
> making. Easy to make because each of us (me/wife) get five in a stack which
> means they are all the same width and length, only variation is in the depth
> (6 - 3 1/2", 4 - 7"). (I have five more to make later but the size is
> different as is the manner of construction.)
>
> Normally I like to make joints, including drawer grooves, an easy fit; by
> that I mean I don't want to have to use a hammer to get things together but
> I don't want any wobble or rattle...I want to be able to press them together
> with my hands. For bottoms, I normally make the grooves VERY slightly over
> the material thickness, ease the bottom's edges slightly and all goes
> together well.
>
> Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was slightly warped
> and I knew it would be a bear to get everything together so I made the
> grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well but naturally there is a gap
> between the bottom and the groove. I fixed that by ripping off a strip of
> stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that gets me a strip of wedges.
> Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4" square, dab of glue, slide them into
> the crack on the bottom side forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no
> more rattle. Is that cheating?
>
> And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill in a gap
> in other imperfectly fitting joints?
Just cut another slightly smaller bottom and drop it on top. No more gap.
Kidding!
On 11/2/2015 10:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill in a gap
> in other imperfectly fitting joints?
Not wedges (tapered shim?), but shims.
Occasionally a loose tenon may fit loosely in a routed mortise.
In that case I'll cut a thin shim, the same size as the face of the
tenon, and glued to same.
Wedge wouldn't work in that situation, for obvious reasons.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Monday, November 2, 2015 at 8:10:32 PM UTC-6, John McCoy wrote:
> Michael <[email protected]> wrote in news:e320ffc6-86c5-429c-975f-
> [email protected]:
>
> > On Monday, November 2, 2015 at 5:44:50 PM UTC-6, John McCoy wrote:
> >> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> >>
> >>
> >> Traditionally the bottom would be thicker than the groove,
> >> and would be tapered along the edges to fit.
> >>
> >> John
> >
> > I did not know this. What is the thinking behind this approach?
>
> That when you only have a handsaw it's a pain to resaw
> a plank down to make a thin bottom. Easier to just
> plane down the edges to fit the groove.
>
> John
Thanks John and Jeff. Sounds good.
On 11/2/2015 10:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was slightly warped
> and I knew it would be a bear to get everything together so I made the
> grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well but naturally there is a gap
> between the bottom and the groove. I fixed that by ripping off a strip of
> stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that gets me a strip of wedges.
> Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4" square, dab of glue, slide them into
> the crack on the bottom side forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no
> more rattle. Is that cheating?
Absolutely ..... NOT! ;)
> And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill in a gap
> in other imperfectly fitting joints?
Don't do wedges, but I do use a method that makes the whole enchilada a
bit stronger, particularly on wide drawers where a heavy load may warp
the 1/4" bottom slightly due to width, however, your method will suffice
nicely.
I span that bottom with a brace, glued to the bottom, and brad nailed to
the side (where the nail hole will be hidden by the drawer slides),
which you can see in the drawer sitting on its side in the photo:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShop327KitchenRefresh2013?noredirect=1#5942064779998629746
Either method will the keep the drawer bottom firmly against the
interior side of the groove for the bottom, neither one is "cheating".
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 11/4/2015 9:56 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Mon, 2 Nov 2015 11:50:15 -0500
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> ripping off a strip of stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that
>> gets me a strip of wedges. Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4"
>> square, dab of glue, slide them into the crack on the bottom side
>> forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no more rattle. Is that
>> cheating?
>
> it is improvisation not cheating
>
An adjustment tool?
On 11/2/2015 11:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her vanities I am
> making. Easy to make because each of us (me/wife) get five in a stack which
> means they are all the same width and length, only variation is in the depth
> (6 - 3 1/2", 4 - 7"). (I have five more to make later but the size is
> different as is the manner of construction.)
>
> Normally I like to make joints, including drawer grooves, an easy fit; by
> that I mean I don't want to have to use a hammer to get things together but
> I don't want any wobble or rattle...I want to be able to press them together
> with my hands. For bottoms, I normally make the grooves VERY slightly over
> the material thickness, ease the bottom's edges slightly and all goes
> together well.
>
> Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was slightly warped
> and I knew it would be a bear to get everything together so I made the
> grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well but naturally there is a gap
> between the bottom and the groove. I fixed that by ripping off a strip of
> stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that gets me a strip of wedges.
> Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4" square, dab of glue, slide them into
> the crack on the bottom side forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no
> more rattle. Is that cheating?
>
> And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill in a gap
> in other imperfectly fitting joints?
>
>
I will use hot glue to stop the rattle. It's flexible enough.
You can also use caulking if you prefer.
I try to keep my groove right on the money plus a hair.
As far as filling the bottom, that's not cheating.
I would strive to avoid that, seems like more work, but correcting
imperfections is part and parcel for what we do.
I don't use a wedge.
--
Jeff
On 11/2/2015 8:16 PM, Michael wrote:
> On Monday, November 2, 2015 at 5:44:50 PM UTC-6, John McCoy wrote:
>> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>
>> Traditionally the bottom would be thicker than the groove,
>> and would be tapered along the edges to fit.
>>
>> John
>
> I did not know this. What is the thinking behind this approach?
>
> Thanks.
>
It gives you a raised panel bottom.
One that can shrink and expand into the groove.
Also it provides a thicker bottom, which can be real nice , it feels
nice, holds heavier items too.
--
Jeff
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was slightly
> warped and I knew it would be a bear to get everything together so I
> made the grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well but naturally
> there is a gap between the bottom and the groove. I fixed that by
> ripping off a strip of stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that
> gets me a strip of wedges. Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4"
> square, dab of glue, slide them into the crack on the bottom side
> forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no more rattle. Is that
> cheating?
Sounds fair to me. I'd probably have made a strip as long as
the groove, rather than the 3/4 squares, so that in the unlikely
event of anyone looking at it it didn't look quite so much like
an unplanned fix.
I have seen drawers made by rabbetting the sides, rather than
grooving, and glueing square-sectioned strips into the rabbet
to trap the bottom. Which seems like a lot of work.
Traditionally the bottom would be thicker than the groove,
and would be tapered along the edges to fit.
John
Michael <[email protected]> wrote in news:e320ffc6-86c5-429c-975f-
[email protected]:
> On Monday, November 2, 2015 at 5:44:50 PM UTC-6, John McCoy wrote:
>> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>
>> Traditionally the bottom would be thicker than the groove,
>> and would be tapered along the edges to fit.
>>
>> John
>
> I did not know this. What is the thinking behind this approach?
That when you only have a handsaw it's a pain to resaw
a plank down to make a thin bottom. Easier to just
plane down the edges to fit the groove.
John
On Monday, November 2, 2015 at 5:44:50 PM UTC-6, John McCoy wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>
> Traditionally the bottom would be thicker than the groove,
> and would be tapered along the edges to fit.
>
> John
I did not know this. What is the thinking behind this approach?
Thanks.
On Monday, November 2, 2015 at 6:50:27 AM UTC-10, dadiOH wrote:
> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her vanities I am
> making. Easy to make because each of us (me/wife) get five in a stack which
> means they are all the same width and length, only variation is in the depth
> (6 - 3 1/2", 4 - 7"). (I have five more to make later but the size is
> different as is the manner of construction.)
>
> Normally I like to make joints, including drawer grooves, an easy fit; by
> that I mean I don't want to have to use a hammer to get things together but
> I don't want any wobble or rattle...I want to be able to press them together
> with my hands. For bottoms, I normally make the grooves VERY slightly over
> the material thickness, ease the bottom's edges slightly and all goes
> together well.
>
> Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was slightly warped
> and I knew it would be a bear to get everything together so I made the
> grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well but naturally there is a gap
> between the bottom and the groove. I fixed that by ripping off a strip of
> stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that gets me a strip of wedges.
> Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4" square, dab of glue, slide them into
> the crack on the bottom side forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no
> more rattle. Is that cheating?
>
> And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill in a gap
> in other imperfectly fitting joints?
No-not cheating. But I prefer the thin piece of veneer technique. BTW, I think you meant 8 drawers for your wife and 2 for you.
On 11/4/2015 5:02 AM, Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>
>>>> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her
>>>> vanities I am
>>>> making.
>> --------------------------------------
>> If you don't get caught, it's a construction freedom,
>>
>> Lew
>
> My first thought was that it wasn't that many years back that most
> people had dirt floors in their houses.
>
I recall about 40 years ago a hamburger chain, Hamburger by Gourmet, had
a location in Port Aransas, Texas. The dining area was not much more
than a lean-to on the side of a small building. The lean-to was
enclosed, air conditioned, had lighting, and a dirt floor.
On 11/2/2015 10:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her vanities I am
> making. Easy to make because each of us (me/wife) get five in a stack which
> means they are all the same width and length, only variation is in the depth
> (6 - 3 1/2", 4 - 7"). (I have five more to make later but the size is
> different as is the manner of construction.)
>
> Normally I like to make joints, including drawer grooves, an easy fit; by
> that I mean I don't want to have to use a hammer to get things together but
> I don't want any wobble or rattle...I want to be able to press them together
> with my hands. For bottoms, I normally make the grooves VERY slightly over
> the material thickness, ease the bottom's edges slightly and all goes
> together well.
>
> Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was slightly warped
> and I knew it would be a bear to get everything together so I made the
> grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well but naturally there is a gap
> between the bottom and the groove. I fixed that by ripping off a strip of
> stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that gets me a strip of wedges.
> Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4" square, dab of glue, slide them into
> the crack on the bottom side forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no
> more rattle. Is that cheating?
Nope, not unless yo have some one else build the drawers. ;!)
>
> And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill in a gap
> in other imperfectly fitting joints?
>
>
Probably as Swingman indicated, quarter rounds glued on the bottom on
each side, this will ad a lot of strength. Or you could squirt some
glue down in the crack.
On 11/2/2015 11:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her vanities I am
> making. Easy to make because each of us (me/wife) get five in a stack which
> means they are all the same width and length, only variation is in the depth
> (6 - 3 1/2", 4 - 7"). (I have five more to make later but the size is
> different as is the manner of construction.)
>
> Normally I like to make joints, including drawer grooves, an easy fit; by
> that I mean I don't want to have to use a hammer to get things together but
> I don't want any wobble or rattle...I want to be able to press them together
> with my hands. For bottoms, I normally make the grooves VERY slightly over
> the material thickness, ease the bottom's edges slightly and all goes
> together well.
>
> Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was slightly warped
> and I knew it would be a bear to get everything together so I made the
> grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well but naturally there is a gap
> between the bottom and the groove. I fixed that by ripping off a strip of
> stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that gets me a strip of wedges.
> Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4" square, dab of glue, slide them into
> the crack on the bottom side forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no
> more rattle. Is that cheating?
>
> And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill in a gap
> in other imperfectly fitting joints?
>
>
Whenever I've faced a situation like that I've usually just glued in a bit
of veneer. Depending on the gap and what veneer was on hand one or two
layers would take care of it and done well it is invisible. I've always
figured that part of 'craftsmanship' is not making mistakes but the rest is
covering the invevitable gracefully.
On 11/2/15 2:28 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/2/2015 11:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her
>> vanities I am making. Easy to make because each of us (me/wife)
>> get five in a stack which means they are all the same width and
>> length, only variation is in the depth (6 - 3 1/2", 4 - 7"). (I
>> have five more to make later but the size is different as is the
>> manner of construction.)
>>
>> Normally I like to make joints, including drawer grooves, an easy
>> fit; by that I mean I don't want to have to use a hammer to get
>> things together but I don't want any wobble or rattle...I want to
>> be able to press them together with my hands. For bottoms, I
>> normally make the grooves VERY slightly over the material
>> thickness, ease the bottom's edges slightly and all goes together
>> well.
>>
>> Not this time. The 1/4" ply - which is actually 3/16" - was
>> slightly warped and I knew it would be a bear to get everything
>> together so I made the grooves 1/32" over. All goes together well
>> but naturally there is a gap between the bottom and the groove. I
>> fixed that by ripping off a strip of stock with the saw blade at
>> 4-5 degrees; that gets me a strip of wedges. Cut off a bunch so
>> they are about 3/4" square, dab of glue, slide them into the crack
>> on the bottom side forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no more
>> rattle. Is that cheating?
>>
>> And while I'm on the subject, does anyone else use a wedge to fill
>> in a gap in other imperfectly fitting joints?
>>
>>
>
> I will use hot glue to stop the rattle. It's flexible enough. You can
> also use caulking if you prefer.
>
That's what I've done, too. It dries right away and if there's any
expansion, one side will give a little but still keep it from rattling.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>
>>> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her
>>> vanities I am
>>> making.
> --------------------------------------
> If you don't get caught, it's a construction freedom,
>
> Lew
My first thought was that it wasn't that many years back that most
people had dirt floors in their houses.
On Mon, 2 Nov 2015 11:50:15 -0500
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> ripping off a strip of stock with the saw blade at 4-5 degrees; that
> gets me a strip of wedges. Cut off a bunch so they are about 3/4"
> square, dab of glue, slide them into the crack on the bottom side
> forcing the bottom up and no more crack, no more rattle. Is that
> cheating?
it is improvisation not cheating
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 22:04:34 -0800 (PST)
GeneT <[email protected]> wrote:
> BTW, I think you meant 8 drawers for your wife and 2 for you.
or maybe 1 but possibly 1/2 a drawer with a small partition and not split
down the middle front to back but from left to right and his in the back
Leon wrote:
> On 11/4/2015 5:02 AM, Bill wrote:
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> dadiOH wrote:
>>>
>>>>> I'm making a bunch (10) of drawers for the pair of his and her
>>>>> vanities I am
>>>>> making.
>>> --------------------------------------
>>> If you don't get caught, it's a construction freedom,
>>>
>>> Lew
>>
>> My first thought was that it wasn't that many years back that most
>> people had dirt floors in their houses.
>>
> I recall about 40 years ago a hamburger chain, Hamburger by Gourmet,
> had a location in Port Aransas, Texas. The dining area was not much
> more than a lean-to on the side of a small building. The lean-to was
> enclosed, air conditioned, had lighting, and a dirt floor.
I remember a place like that in Veracruz when I lived there in the early
90s. An Italian from Venice set up a tent in a vacant lot and started
cooking. Dirt floor, rustic tables, great food. Best Italian food I have
ever eaten.
Returned for a visit 4-5 years after moving back to the US. Tent was gone,
rustic tables gone, dirt floor gone. The food was as good as ever but it
was now being served in a substantial two story building, very attractively
decorated, owned lock, stock and barrel by the Venetian. Hard work and good
food paid off. If anyone is ever there, go to "El Venustiano" (The
Venetian).
On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 07:55:26 -0600
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> I recall about 40 years ago a hamburger chain, Hamburger by Gourmet,
> had a location in Port Aransas, Texas. The dining area was not much
> more than a lean-to on the side of a small building. The lean-to was
> enclosed, air conditioned, had lighting, and a dirt floor.
dirt + ketchup + lettuce + tomato + bun + burger + french fry + soda +
pickle + bacon + mustard + mayo
impervious probably