RA

"Ron Angel"

27/08/2004 1:18 AM

Staining Red Oak plywood

Can anyone share their experiences on staining the 3/4" ROak ply avail at
HD?

Have any techniques given better results than others?

Brush on & wipe off or just wipe on?

ThankX,
Ron


This topic has 9 replies

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

27/08/2004 1:55 AM

Regardless of where you buy it, the better the quality stain you get the
better results.
Personally I finish sand with 180 grit and never go any farther. As for
the actual stain you should always wipe it off after applying. I perfer
Bartleys gel stains and General Finishes stains. Wipe them on and before
they get too dry, wipe them off.




"Ron Angel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:rZvXc.188632$8_6.141695@attbi_s04...
> Can anyone share their experiences on staining the 3/4" ROak ply avail at
> HD?
>
> Have any techniques given better results than others?
>
> Brush on & wipe off or just wipe on?
>
> ThankX,
> Ron
>
>

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

27/08/2004 1:51 AM


"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:S8wXc.6626$gl.4361@okepread07...
> Red Oak from HD or Lowe's finishes just like anyone else's (It is just a
> LOT
> more expensive.). I have had good luck with MinWax products as well as
> others. Main thing is thorough sanding and preparation. Sand to at least
> 220 and 400 is better. If you want a super slick finish sand to 400 then
> burnish with 600 or a piece of brown paper bag. Wipe on poly provides an
> easy and attractive finish.
>
> If you are buying much oak, find a local mill or hardwood dealer. If you
> convert the borg's liner foot prices to board foot pricing, they are
> obscene - up to $7-8/bd ft. Hardwood shops and mills in our area sell red
> oak for $2.89 to $4.20 bd ft (premium). It is even cheaper 150 miles east
> of here in Missouri or Arkansas.



Ummm, that would be Red Oak "PLYWOOD" that he is asking about.

Rr

"RonB"

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

26/08/2004 8:30 PM

Red Oak from HD or Lowe's finishes just like anyone else's (It is just a LOT
more expensive.). I have had good luck with MinWax products as well as
others. Main thing is thorough sanding and preparation. Sand to at least
220 and 400 is better. If you want a super slick finish sand to 400 then
burnish with 600 or a piece of brown paper bag. Wipe on poly provides an
easy and attractive finish.

If you are buying much oak, find a local mill or hardwood dealer. If you
convert the borg's liner foot prices to board foot pricing, they are
obscene - up to $7-8/bd ft. Hardwood shops and mills in our area sell red
oak for $2.89 to $4.20 bd ft (premium). It is even cheaper 150 miles east
of here in Missouri or Arkansas.


PO

"Paul O."

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

27/08/2004 2:08 AM


"Ron Angel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:rZvXc.188632$8_6.141695@attbi_s04...
> Can anyone share their experiences on staining the 3/4" ROak ply avail at
> HD?
>
> Have any techniques given better results than others?
>
> Brush on & wipe off or just wipe on?
>
> ThankX,
> Ron
>
> For red oak ply or solid wood, I prefer sanding just enough to remove any
rough spots as I like the rough raised grain. I also used wipe on poly on
the two projects I made, sanding lightly after each of the first two coats,
and I like the looks of that. Just my preferences, others will vary(that
sounds familiar). Good luck on whatever you decide to do.
--
Paul O.
[email protected]

Rr

"RonB"

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

26/08/2004 8:56 PM

Well Hell Yes!

Must be bedtime - see you in the morning.


>
>
> Ummm, that would be Red Oak "PLYWOOD" that he is asking about.
>
>

Rr

"RonB"

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

26/08/2004 9:08 PM

By the way - you didn't sense any personal opinion regarding Borg hardwood
pricing - did you?


"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:lxwXc.6628$gl.429@okepread07...
> Well Hell Yes!
>
> Must be bedtime - see you in the morning.
>
>
> >
> >
> > Ummm, that would be Red Oak "PLYWOOD" that he is asking about.
> >
> >
>
>

pc

"patrick conroy"

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

27/08/2004 3:14 AM


"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:tIwXc.6629$gl.4223@okepread07...
>
>
> By the way - you didn't sense any personal opinion regarding Borg hardwood
> pricing - did you?
>

shhhhh.
went right by me...
mebbe no one will notice... :)

RA

"Ron Angel"

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

28/08/2004 2:39 AM

At $42 a sheet, it looked pretty good.
Wasn't sure if th ROak veneer was possibly too thin to take a decent stain.

I've used their maple ply for a few projects, which were painted, with
decent results.

ThankX all,
Ron

"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >Personally I finish sand with 180 grit and never go any farther.
>
> I agree, on red oak 180 usually works well. My tops go to 220 but then
you
> run into a bit of trouble with two different absorption rates of stain.
> FWIW when I use Minwax stain (their regular stain) I spray on and don't
wipe
> off.
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Regardless of where you buy it, the better the quality stain you get the
> > better results.
> > Personally I finish sand with 180 grit and never go any farther. As
for
> > the actual stain you should always wipe it off after applying. I perfer
> > Bartleys gel stains and General Finishes stains. Wipe them on and
before
> > they get too dry, wipe them off.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Ron Angel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:rZvXc.188632$8_6.141695@attbi_s04...
> > > Can anyone share their experiences on staining the 3/4" ROak ply avail
> at
> > > HD?
> > >
> > > Have any techniques given better results than others?
> > >
> > > Brush on & wipe off or just wipe on?
> > >
> > > ThankX,
> > > Ron
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Rr

"Rumpty"

in reply to "Ron Angel" on 27/08/2004 1:18 AM

26/08/2004 10:08 PM

>Personally I finish sand with 180 grit and never go any farther.

I agree, on red oak 180 usually works well. My tops go to 220 but then you
run into a bit of trouble with two different absorption rates of stain.
FWIW when I use Minwax stain (their regular stain) I spray on and don't wipe
off.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Regardless of where you buy it, the better the quality stain you get the
> better results.
> Personally I finish sand with 180 grit and never go any farther. As for
> the actual stain you should always wipe it off after applying. I perfer
> Bartleys gel stains and General Finishes stains. Wipe them on and before
> they get too dry, wipe them off.
>
>
>
>
> "Ron Angel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:rZvXc.188632$8_6.141695@attbi_s04...
> > Can anyone share their experiences on staining the 3/4" ROak ply avail
at
> > HD?
> >
> > Have any techniques given better results than others?
> >
> > Brush on & wipe off or just wipe on?
> >
> > ThankX,
> > Ron
> >
> >
>
>


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