Recently finished a couple of pieces using white oak.
Treated them with a few wipe on coats of BLO followed by a wax mixture
that consisted of melting bees wax, then adding BLO, then allowing to
cool before applying.
Pieces notably impressed the receiver, so must have done something
correctly.
Now the question:
What do you use to maintain these surfaces?
Lew
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Recently finished a couple of pieces using white oak.
>
> Treated them with a few wipe on coats of BLO followed by a wax mixture
> that consisted of melting bees wax, then adding BLO, then allowing to
> cool before applying.
>
> Pieces notably impressed the receiver, so must have done something
> correctly.
>
> Now the question:
>
> What do you use to maintain these surfaces?
>
> Lew
Lew, this is a variant of many of these types of oil/wax finishes. Sam
Maloof's is quite similar (would have to dig out the book - I think he
puts a couple of carnuba chips in his) except I think he puts mineral
spirits in it to make it a realy creamy mix and to allow easier
application.
I am under the strongest impression left from a conversation by one of
the furniture makers (actually, I think he is a Sam Maloof grad!) that
makes furniture and rockers around here that he just cleans the surface
as needed with a dry, soft rag. If it is really dirty, he dampens with
mineral spirits, rubs lightly and allows to dry.
To renew the finish, he applies another thin coat, allows to dry, then
buffs out to the required sheen.
Robert
Swingman wrote:
>
> I've used Maloof's oil/poly and oil/wax extensively and that's what I do ...
> about once year, or whenever I see the need.
>
Are you using this anywhere in the houses you are building, or on
personal/comission pieces? I have always wondered how this finish
holds up on a piece that is not considered "fine" woodwork, and handled
with some care.
Robert
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Lew, this is a variant of many of these types of oil/wax finishes. Sam
> > Maloof's is quite similar (would have to dig out the book - I think he
> > puts a couple of carnuba chips in his) except I think he puts mineral
> > spirits in it to make it a realy creamy mix and to allow easier
> > application.
> >
> > I am under the strongest impression left from a conversation by one of
> > the furniture makers (actually, I think he is a Sam Maloof grad!) that
> > makes furniture and rockers around here that he just cleans the surface
> > as needed with a dry, soft rag. If it is really dirty, he dampens with
> > mineral spirits, rubs lightly and allows to dry.
> >
> > To renew the finish, he applies another thin coat, allows to dry, then
> > buffs out to the required sheen.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Maybe I'll add a little turps, I like the smell of turps, to this
> witch's brew to make it a little more "creamy".
>
> Right now, it's a little stiff.
>
> Lew
if you want to harden it up a bit, substitute varnish for some of the
oil. this will reduce the shelf life of the mix, so don't make a huge
amount at once.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Swingman wrote:
> >
> > I've used Maloof's oil/poly and oil/wax extensively and that's what I do
...
> > about once year, or whenever I see the need.
> >
>
> Are you using this anywhere in the houses you are building, or on
> personal/comission pieces? I have always wondered how this finish
> holds up on a piece that is not considered "fine" woodwork, and handled
> with some care.
Only on personal/commission pieces. Most of the yuppies who buy these houses
wouldn't know/appreciate the difference between "fine" woodwork and a
milking stool.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/10/06
[email protected] wrote:
> Lew, this is a variant of many of these types of oil/wax finishes. Sam
> Maloof's is quite similar (would have to dig out the book - I think he
> puts a couple of carnuba chips in his) except I think he puts mineral
> spirits in it to make it a realy creamy mix and to allow easier
> application.
>
> I am under the strongest impression left from a conversation by one of
> the furniture makers (actually, I think he is a Sam Maloof grad!) that
> makes furniture and rockers around here that he just cleans the surface
> as needed with a dry, soft rag. If it is really dirty, he dampens with
> mineral spirits, rubs lightly and allows to dry.
>
> To renew the finish, he applies another thin coat, allows to dry, then
> buffs out to the required sheen.
Thank you.
Maybe I'll add a little turps, I like the smell of turps, to this
witch's brew to make it a little more "creamy".
Right now, it's a little stiff.
Lew
I previously wrote:
> Maybe I'll add a little turps, I like the smell of turps, to this
> witch's brew to make it a little more "creamy".
>
> Right now, it's a little stiff.
Added some turps.
It is now creamy.
Also smells good.
Now if it just works on furniture.
BTW, looks like it might work as a substitute for Johnson's wax on the
saw table.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> To renew the finish, he applies another thin coat, allows to dry, then
> buffs out to the required sheen.
I've used Maloof's oil/poly and oil/wax extensively and that's what I do ...
about once year, or whenever I see the need.
AAMOF, I give away a small container of the oil/wax mixture with a piece
finished that way, along with instructions to use it every year, and a
strong warning to pay particular attention to rag disposal.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/10/06