Well Im almost done with the cabinet. I probably should have sanded
before I assembled, but here I am now.
Gonna hit it with 80, then 120, then 200 I guess unless I can find
something between 200 and 120.
My question. This sanding is quite dusty. Im doing it in my 1/2
finished basement with no dust collection. Not to worried since Only
surface is really the carpet which I can clean and no furniture is there
yet. What type of dust collection exists for doing sanding? I seen
workbenches, but do dust collectors somehow connect to the workbenches??
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
>Gonna hit it with 80, then 120, then 200 I guess unless I can find
>something between 200 and 120.
That's fine.
>What type of dust collection exists for doing sanding?
It's called a down-draft table. And it's probably more tool than you
want to invest in right now. They're easy to make though. It's
basically a board with hundreds of holes drilled in it 1" apart on top
of a box, then you attach the box to a shopvac or dust collector. The
idea is that the air flows down into the table collecting the dust.
(think of an air hocky table with the air flowing backwards... and
bigger holes) I'm not sure how well they work though, I don't have
one. I suspect they need a lot of cfm.
If you live in a nice climate, why not do it in the driveway?
brian
You can use a shop vac. The filter in the vac should remove most of
the dust. Depending on whether you're hand sanding or using a
vibrating palm sander or random-orbit sander, you can either fix the
end of the vac hose in place somewhere near the area you're sanding, or
you can tie it (duct tape it, whatever) right to your sander. Ideally,
you get SWMBO to hold it near the point of dust generation. It won't
completely eliminate the dust, but it will help a lot. Works great
when repairing drywall.
You can also invest in a shop air filter for $200 or so. They work
great, but once the thing's hung somewhere in your shop, it's generally
too much of a pain to unhook and move to a temporary location.
Btw, I don't know where you get your sandpaper, but most that I know
comes in standard 80, 100, 150, and 220 grits.
Josh
Typically your sander will be made to use either quarter sheets
(literally a standard sheet that you'd buy in the paint section cut
into four pieces) or 5" or 6" round disks with 5 or 8 holes in them
(usually sold in the tools section). The round ones are made for
random orbit sanders, which both vibrate and spin. The quarter sheets
are usually used on a palm sander which only vibrates.
If you have a quarter-sheet sander, the easiest thing is to go to the
paint section and buy one of the variety packs. I think they usually
have ten sheets ranging from 80 to 220. Depending on the wood you're
using and the finish, you may even want to go to a higher grit (e.g.
320 or 400). I've gone up to 400 grit for a high gloss finish on
maple. As others have mentioned, unless you have really gross features
you need to knock down, it's usually better to skip the 80 grit and
start at 100.
Josh wrote:
> You can use a shop vac. The filter in the vac should remove most of
> the dust. Depending on whether you're hand sanding or using a
> vibrating palm sander or random-orbit sander, you can either fix the
> end of the vac hose in place somewhere near the area you're sanding, or
> you can tie it (duct tape it, whatever) right to your sander. Ideally,
> you get SWMBO to hold it near the point of dust generation. It won't
> completely eliminate the dust, but it will help a lot. Works great
> when repairing drywall.
>
I have a hand sanding maching. I don't think its random or orbital. I
hope this is the right one for the job.
I sanded in basement whic is aobut 80% finished. I didnt want to sand
in furnace room as I didnt want to dirty it up.
I may sand in the garage, but its about 35 degrees outside, and im not
sure how the wood will like going from humid warm house to cold dry
outside for some sanding.
> You can also invest in a shop air filter for $200 or so. They work
> great, but once the thing's hung somewhere in your shop, it's generally
> too much of a pain to unhook and move to a temporary location.
>
Ill probably turn my garage into a shop this summer. Its so tough
organizing and hiding away all the stuff I have.
> Btw, I don't know where you get your sandpaper, but most that I know
> comes in standard 80, 100, 150, and 220 grits.
>
> Josh
>
Sand paper has been a joike to get. Homedepot and lowes are very odd.
They have verious sizes but not that will immediately fit the sander. I
currently have some 100 and 150. When I went to buy they had 80 120,
and maybe 220. And some of the paper is in the section with the sanding
machings, the rest is in the paint section. And its not duplicate either.
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
use one of these near where you sand
Delta Machinery
Air Cleaner with Lights
Model AP100
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"dnoyeB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Josh wrote:
>> You can use a shop vac. The filter in the vac should remove most of
>> the dust. Depending on whether you're hand sanding or using a
>> vibrating palm sander or random-orbit sander, you can either fix the
>> end of the vac hose in place somewhere near the area you're sanding, or
>> you can tie it (duct tape it, whatever) right to your sander. Ideally,
>> you get SWMBO to hold it near the point of dust generation. It won't
>> completely eliminate the dust, but it will help a lot. Works great
>> when repairing drywall.
>>
>
> I have a hand sanding maching. I don't think its random or orbital. I
> hope this is the right one for the job.
>
> I sanded in basement whic is aobut 80% finished. I didnt want to sand in
> furnace room as I didnt want to dirty it up.
>
> I may sand in the garage, but its about 35 degrees outside, and im not
> sure how the wood will like going from humid warm house to cold dry
> outside for some sanding.
>
>> You can also invest in a shop air filter for $200 or so. They work
>> great, but once the thing's hung somewhere in your shop, it's generally
>> too much of a pain to unhook and move to a temporary location.
>>
>
> Ill probably turn my garage into a shop this summer. Its so tough
> organizing and hiding away all the stuff I have.
>
>> Btw, I don't know where you get your sandpaper, but most that I know
>> comes in standard 80, 100, 150, and 220 grits.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>
> Sand paper has been a joike to get. Homedepot and lowes are very odd.
> They have verious sizes but not that will immediately fit the sander. I
> currently have some 100 and 150. When I went to buy they had 80 120, and
> maybe 220. And some of the paper is in the section with the sanding
> machings, the rest is in the paint section. And its not duplicate either.
>
>
> --
> Thank you,
>
>
>
> "Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
> man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes
> 9:16
Most people just buy whole sheets and cut it to fit the sander. A good
progression of grits is 80, 120, 220, and 320. Unless the lumber is very
rough, you can forego the 80 grit. I don't usually try grits between 120
and 220.
Jim
On Mon, 13 Feb 2006 11:14:15 -0500, dnoyeB <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Well Im almost done with the cabinet. I probably should have sanded
>before I assembled, but here I am now.
>
>Gonna hit it with 80, then 120, then 200 I guess unless I can find
>something between 200 and 120.
>
>My question. This sanding is quite dusty. Im doing it in my 1/2
>finished basement with no dust collection. Not to worried since Only
>surface is really the carpet which I can clean and no furniture is there
>yet. What type of dust collection exists for doing sanding? I seen
>workbenches, but do dust collectors somehow connect to the workbenches??
You can get a shop vacuum that takes an aftermarket Cleanstream air
filter. That will remove even the extra fine dust (stuff you can't
even see but is brutal on your lungs). Plus you can find for
considerable dollars high end shop vacs that are much quieter than the
normal ones.
Many sanders have a dust port that you can connect a shop vac up to.
If you are going to do a lot of woodworking dust collection is a very
good investment.
Josh wrote:
> Typically your sander will be made to use either quarter sheets
> (literally a standard sheet that you'd buy in the paint section cut
> into four pieces) or 5" or 6" round disks with 5 or 8 holes in them
> (usually sold in the tools section). The round ones are made for
> random orbit sanders, which both vibrate and spin. The quarter sheets
> are usually used on a palm sander which only vibrates.
>
> If you have a quarter-sheet sander, the easiest thing is to go to the
> paint section and buy one of the variety packs. I think they usually
> have ten sheets ranging from 80 to 220. Depending on the wood you're
> using and the finish, you may even want to go to a higher grit (e.g.
> 320 or 400). I've gone up to 400 grit for a high gloss finish on
> maple. As others have mentioned, unless you have really gross features
> you need to knock down, it's usually better to skip the 80 grit and
> start at 100.
>
Great thanks! You folks have been a great help. Ill sand it all with
120 then 220 when I get home. Most of it is AC Fir. I got some strips
of pine to put on the ends of the plywood which is really already smooth
as it can be. And I bought some 1/4" BC Pine for the backing.
I'd really enjoy a woodworking class if I had the time. Too many hobbies.
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16