The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had never
tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8' sheets of
plywood the long way on the TS. A few dry runs with a helper had it weaving
and bobbing off the fence and table. We tried it with the helper making like
a featherboard. We tried it with the helper making like an infeed support
roller, which worked a little better. The lumberyard would have ripped it
for me at $1 per cut, if I had been thinking. But now that it's here...
Is there a secret to a long rip on tablesaws? 8' of leverage easily
overcomes whatever force I can apply holding it to the fence. I've seen
conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but never paid much
attention, since I didn't have problems with the size of work I was doing. I
can't find them now on online stores. What are those roller-things called?
There's no problem on the outfeed end. I just need to get the first 3' or so
to feed straight enough to not kick back. From there, it's a very
comfortable rip, just like the ones I'm used to. What's the secret?
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:8vH1l.1926$c35.1622
@nwrddc02.gnilink.net:
> "-MIKE-" wrote:
>
>> I hope you're not cutting through the foam with your blade. :-)
>
> As a matter of fact, yes.
>
> About 1/4-1/2".
>
> That's why a 2" thick sheet.
>
> Lew
>
>
I use a 1/2" sheet of plywood to support cuts in large pieces. It takes
a few minutes to adjust the blade depth so it cuts just past the depth of
the piece and doesn't cut too deep into the plywood.
This sometimes causes a bit of trouble with slightly warped (cupped)
pieces, as the blade may not want to go all the way through. The 2" foam
gives a deeper cut, and thus eliminates this problem.
Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as
some writers are incorrigible.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On Dec 15, 6:30=A0pm, "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had ne=
ver
> tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8' sheets of
> plywood the long way on the TS. A few dry runs with a helper had it weavi=
ng
> and bobbing off the fence and table. We tried it with the helper making l=
ike
> a featherboard. We tried it with the helper making like an infeed support
> roller, which worked a little better. The lumberyard would have ripped it
> for me at $1 per cut, if I had been thinking. But now that it's here...
>
> Is there a secret to a long rip on tablesaws? 8' of leverage easily
> overcomes whatever force I can apply holding it to the fence. I've seen
> conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but never paid much
> attention, since I didn't have problems with the size of work I was doing=
. I
> can't find them now on online stores. What are those roller-things called=
?
>
> There's no problem on the outfeed end. I just need to get the first 3' or=
so
> to feed straight enough to not kick back. From there, it's a very
> comfortable rip, just like the ones I'm used to. What's the secret?
34" high plane chest sits between my saw and my bench,
where it also functions as an infeed table.
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> roller, which worked a little better. The lumberyard would have ripped it
> for me at $1 per cut, if I had been thinking. But now that it's here...
I'm not sure why you're having this trouble. With a properly sized infeed
and outfeed tables and smooth surface to slide on, I've very rarely had
trouble taking slices off an 8' sheet of plywood.
I've never been able to get a lumberyard to make a clean straight cut for
me. It's been a waste of time. Home Depot with their panel saw does a little
better job, but they don't sell the veneered ply that I often buy so I can't
get it cut there.
In article <[email protected]>, MikeWhy
<[email protected]> wrote:
> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had never
> tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8' sheets of
> plywood the long way on the TS. A few dry runs with a helper had it weaving
> and bobbing off the fence and table. We tried it with the helper making like
> a featherboard. We tried it with the helper making like an infeed support
> roller, which worked a little better. The lumberyard would have ripped it
> for me at $1 per cut, if I had been thinking. But now that it's here...
>
> Is there a secret to a long rip on tablesaws? 8' of leverage easily
> overcomes whatever force I can apply holding it to the fence. I've seen
> conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but never paid much
> attention, since I didn't have problems with the size of work I was doing. I
> can't find them now on online stores. What are those roller-things called?
>
> There's no problem on the outfeed end. I just need to get the first 3' or so
> to feed straight enough to not kick back. From there, it's a very
> comfortable rip, just like the ones I'm used to. What's the secret?
Use a long straight edge and circ saw, with the plywood laying on some
styrofoam pieces on the floor.
RE: Subject
Unless you set up infeed, out feed and side support tables, the
mechanics of the process are not in your favor.
If you are trying to only break down one or two sheets, having all
those tables set up take up a lot of space for what is basically a
short time project.
An edge guide, a couple of C-Clamps and a 4'x8'x2" foam sheet, and a
hand held circular saw simplifies life a great deal.
Have fun.
Lew
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> MikeWhy wrote:
>
>> I've seen conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but
>> never paid much attention, since I didn't have problems with the size
>> of work I was doing. I can't find them now on online stores. What are
>> those roller-things called?
>
> Board Buddies
That's them. Wow! $50/pair.
On Dec 16, 6:38=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> behind me.
>
> It would be even more manageable if you extended the fence. =A0Consider: =
=A0you
> have a foot or so of fence between the infeed side of the table and blade=
;
> that means you have seven feet or so of heavy, hard to manage plywood
> hanging off the end. =A0Even if it were totally supported it would be eas=
y to
> wobble off the fence. =A0If you clamp a piece of straight 2x4 to the fenc=
e so
> that it is hanging off the infeed side by two feet you now have three fee=
t
> of initial contact area instead of one.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> - Show quoted text -
And, if you clamp a piece underneath the end of that extended fence,
you'll have some additional support and will be certain that the
plywood won't dive under the fence.
John Martin
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had
> never tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8'
> sheets of plywood the long way on the TS. A few dry runs with a helper had
> it weaving and bobbing off the fence and table. We tried it with the
> helper making like a featherboard. We tried it with the helper making like
> an infeed support roller, which worked a little better. The lumberyard
> would have ripped it for me at $1 per cut, if I had been thinking. But now
> that it's here...
>
> Is there a secret to a long rip on tablesaws? 8' of leverage easily
> overcomes whatever force I can apply holding it to the fence. I've seen
> conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but never paid much
> attention, since I didn't have problems with the size of work I was doing.
> I can't find them now on online stores. What are those roller-things
> called?
>
> There's no problem on the outfeed end. I just need to get the first 3' or
> so to feed straight enough to not kick back. From there, it's a very
> comfortable rip, just like the ones I'm used to. What's the secret?
My experience is to avoid helpers. I use multiple roller stands with swivel
wheels on infeed and outfeed to support both sides of the cut and when
cutting to press the plywood against the fence. Where material allows, I cut
it 1/4 inch oversize, then retrim the cut piece when it is more manageable
in size.
I find helpers tend to try to help too much and often move about as they are
easing the wood through the saw when walking backwards, which causes binding
and a weaving cut.
MikeWhy wrote:
> I've seen conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but
> never paid much attention, since I didn't have problems with the size
> of work I was doing. I can't find them now on online stores. What are
> those roller-things called?
Board Buddies
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
MikeWhy wrote:
> "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> MikeWhy wrote:
>>
>>> I've seen conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but
>>> never paid much attention, since I didn't have problems with the size
>>> of work I was doing. I can't find them now on online stores. What are
>>> those roller-things called?
>>
>> Board Buddies
>
> That's them. Wow! $50/pair.
I think I paid a litle under $40 for my set - and you may find a better
price if you look around carefully.
They do work well, tho.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> MikeWhy wrote:
>>> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had
>>> never tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8'
>>> sheets of plywood the long way on the TS.
>>
>> Get/make outfeed support for both the cut and offcut. Infeed support is
>> good as well.
>>
>> Hold the plywood at the back left corner. I like to have one hand on the
>> back and one on the left side. Start the cut, applying pressure towards
>> the front right corner to keep the board against the fence. Once you get
>> fast the first few feet, move directly behind the sheet and push it
>> through.
>
>I envy you that. It just wouldn't start straight for me. The long leverage
>made it especially easy to over correct. (It turned out to be pretty
>manageable just by adding some support at the far end, behind me. I just
>stoood at the table and fed it, just like any other rip. Maybe some day in
>the far future, I'll try it again... but I suspect I'll just happily pay the
>$1/cut.)
>
Keep your eye on the edge riding the fence, make sure it stays tight
to the fence. Don't watch the blade.
Safer, surer - use a circular saw and guide.
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had
> never tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8'
> sheets of plywood the long way on the TS. A few dry runs with a helper had
> it weaving and bobbing off the fence and table. We tried it with the
> helper making like a featherboard. We tried it with the helper making like
> an infeed support roller, which worked a little better. The lumberyard
> would have ripped it for me at $1 per cut, if I had been thinking. But now
> that it's here...
>
> Is there a secret to a long rip on tablesaws? 8' of leverage easily
> overcomes whatever force I can apply holding it to the fence. I've seen
> conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but never paid much
> attention, since I didn't have problems with the size of work I was doing.
> I can't find them now on online stores. What are those roller-things
> called?
>
> There's no problem on the outfeed end. I just need to get the first 3' or
> so to feed straight enough to not kick back. From there, it's a very
> comfortable rip, just like the ones I'm used to. What's the secret?
>
I find 8' plywood rips aren't possible (with a full 4' sheet.) It's one of
those times where a straightedge and the wormdrive circular saw is the right
tool (for me).
Ed
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> MikeWhy wrote:
>> Yah. I do that for shorter cuts, but don't have an 8' long straightedge.
>
> Sure ya do. You just made 14 of them, right? :-)
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
Or, sacrifice one rip of your next sheet of ply... the factory edge is
going to be everything you need. Rip an 8" piece and (combined with a pair
of clamps) you have all the straightedge you need.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ed Edelenbos wrote:
>>
>>
>> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> MikeWhy wrote:
>>>> Yah. I do that for shorter cuts, but don't have an 8' long
>>>> straightedge.
>>>
>>> Sure ya do. You just made 14 of them, right? :-)
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> -MIKE-
>>>
>>
>> Or, sacrifice one rip of your next sheet of ply... the factory edge is
>> going to be everything you need. Rip an 8" piece and (combined with a
>> pair of clamps) you have all the straightedge you need.
>
>
> Is there an echo in here? :-)
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
Nah, just someone who replies before reading all the other replies. (grin)
Ed
"Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:151220081737540378%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
> In article <[email protected]>, MikeWhy
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had
>> never
>> tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8' sheets of
>> plywood the long way on the TS. A few dry runs with a helper had it
>> weaving
>
> Use a long straight edge and circ saw, with the plywood laying on some
> styrofoam pieces on the floor.
Yah. I do that for shorter cuts, but don't have an 8' long straightedge.
It's unbelievable how much a 2" sheet costs these days. About $30 a 4x8 a
few months ago.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> MikeWhy wrote:
>> Yah. I do that for shorter cuts, but don't have an 8' long straightedge.
>
> Sure ya do. You just made 14 of them, right? :-)
Doh! Yeah. Also eyeing the spare 8' long white melamine shelf that's been
gathering dust in the corner. A length of cleats down its length, and a
simple cut with the saw will turn it into a usable guide. (No matter. I'm
just pleased as punch with how easily it cuts on the TS now.)
Anyway, there's not much left of the plywood. There's a little less than a
square foot of small bits and pieces in scrap. It was quite an epiphany to
discover that there's a bookcase hiding in each 4x8 sheet of plywood. Just
add some edge banding and a 1/4" back sheet.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> EXT wrote:
>>
>> My experience is to avoid helpers. ...
>>
>> I find helpers tend to try to help too much and often move about as they
>> are easing the wood through the saw when walking backwards, which causes
>> binding and a weaving cut.
>
>
> I agree about the helpers.
> Inevitably, you end up fighting each other, even if you're not trying to.
And so I sent her off to start supper. :D
I stacked some stock on the Workmate for a bit of help at the far infeed
end, and added a featherboard for hold-down at the fence for insurance. It
was a complete non-event. Most of it, I think, was a mental block that said
it would be a difficult cut. One down, 6 more to go. Thanks for the nudge.
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Is there a secret to a long rip on tablesaws? 8' of leverage easily
> overcomes whatever force I can apply holding it to the fence.
Never tried a full sheet, don't ever intend to try. I get it cut to close on
a panel saw where I buy the plywood and make the finish cuts. Handling a
smaller sheet is not a big deal with good support. You can do the same with
a circular saw for the first cut.
MikeWhy wrote:
> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had never
> tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8' sheets of
> plywood the long way on the TS.
Get/make outfeed support for both the cut and offcut. Infeed support is
good as well.
Hold the plywood at the back left corner. I like to have one hand on
the back and one on the left side. Start the cut, applying pressure
towards the front right corner to keep the board against the fence.
Once you get fast the first few feet, move directly behind the sheet and
push it through.
Chris
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> MikeWhy wrote:
>
>> The trouble was the infeed. It needed more support,
>> which I solved for the moment by stacking and clamping some cutoffs
>> on the Workmate. It supported the last 2 feet or so, behind me, while
>> I worked as normal from right at the table.
>
> Do you mean you were AT the table or you were on the right side? If the
> latter and if your fence is to the right of your blade then you are on the
> wrong side. You needed to be on the *left* side of the sheet so you could
> keep it against the fence with your left hand and feed with your right.
> The same is true of ripping anything.
I'm right handed and normally belly up to the table, taking advantage of the
butter smooth, perfectly rigid and linear delivery developed over a half
century of shooting pool to pay the rent. I can't even picture doing it from
the right of the fence. A leftie might have a different viewpoint.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > I envy you that. It just wouldn't start straight for me. The long
> > leverage made it especially easy to over correct. (It turned out to
> > be pretty manageable just by adding some support at the far end,
> > behind me.
It sounds like you're having trouble sliding the wood and that it's not
travelling past the blade smoothly. If you were cutting a simple piece of
pine, does it cut smoothly, without burning? If not, then you likely have a
blade/fence alignment problem. If that's not the case then it's likely
friction from your support surfaces.
For any infeed/outfeed support that you're using, what kind of surfaces do
they have? For example, if you're trying to slide the plywood onto another
support that is plywood, then you're going to get some friction causing
difficulty cutting. Either hardboard, or better yet, some type of melamine
surface are about as smooth as you're going to get.
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> needed. In the future, I'll look at making or buying a roller stand, or
look
> at Board Buddies. Maybe just focusing on walking a straight line while
> pushing would have worked, but I wasn't encouraged by the first few tries.
I use two roller stands actually. One is a single roller stand that I use
left of the table saw and the other is a 13 roller stand that I use
primarily for outfeed support.
As others have mentioned, it probably comes down to practice. I use a
wheelchair so I don't walk the boards at all because I need my hands to push
the wood through while at the same time keeping it pressed against the
fence. Sometimes I need to reposition myself so I have to let go of the
wood, move to a more optimal position and then resume my cutting. Those are
the only times I might get a burned edge, but they're infrequent. And yeah,
if you can get stuff cut slightly oversize at the wood store before bringing
it home, then all the better. We make do the best we can.
On Dec 15, 6:30=A0pm, "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote:
I've seen conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but
never paid much
> attention, since I didn't have problems with the size of work I was doing=
. I
> can't find them now on online stores. What are those roller-things called=
?
Woodstock W1104 Yellow Anti-Kick Back Board Buddies
http://www.tools-plus.com
On Tue, 16 Dec 2008 11:45:01 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> I use two roller stands actually. One is a single roller stand that I use
>> left of the table saw and the other is a 13 roller stand that I use
>> primarily for outfeed support.
>>
>
>Props for keeping up with the woodworking in the chair.
>
>As to those roller stands....
>The ones with multiple bearing balls don't push or direct the stock like
>the ones with the single, long roller.
>If you have the ones with the single long roller, I find that angling
>them ever so slightly towards the fence helps keep stock against the
>fence. When they angle away from the fence they try to pull the stock
>away, too.
>
>Every advantage helps when you're on rollers, yourself. :-)
Working out of a chair is amazing and I'm counting my blessings!
Now...while I like rollers and have a couple of pairs, the most
handy dandy items in my small shop are a set of simple stands that I
made to help with the infeed side of my TS...surface areas are
four-foot long 1x3" hardwood with a strip of that slidey stuff stuck
on top (could be laminate)...ends are rounded-over and it's held to
TS height by a couple of legs with some "T" feet at the bottom with a
stretcher between 'em. These things are easy to move around with one
hand ('cause that's all about working alone, eh?) and serve as horses
of a sort when I need a work table or whatever.
cg
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> myself, as long as I can lift them on the table! One thing I do when
cutting
> full sheets is to cut the piece slightly wider than needed then make a
> second pass to trim it to size. That way if I fudge up the cut I did not
> screw up the piece.
Sure, that's common sense to cut a long piece slightly oversize and then
trim it to needed size. One other thing I do is use a single roller stand
just to the left of the tablesaw for added support when slicing from a full
sheet. And naturally depending on width, I try to cut wider pieces first, if
there are any.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > I envy you that. It just wouldn't start straight for me. The long
>> > leverage made it especially easy to over correct. (It turned out to
>> > be pretty manageable just by adding some support at the far end,
>> > behind me.
>
> It sounds like you're having trouble sliding the wood and that it's not
> travelling past the blade smoothly. If you were cutting a simple piece of
> pine, does it cut smoothly, without burning? If not, then you likely have
> a
> blade/fence alignment problem. If that's not the case then it's likely
> friction from your support surfaces.
The saw cuts fine. The fence was trued to less than .001 its entire length,
and the top freshly waxed. The saw was ready.
I made a dry run with the blade down to see what I was in for, and found I
couldn't keep the edge on the fence. Extending the fence forward as dadOH
suggested likely would have solved it, or helped quite a bit. Once it had
about somewhat more than 2 feet of contact, I had no trouble keeping it on
the fence. The problem was getting it started and moving straight. Even with
some practice, it weaved and bobbed enough to, if it didn't kick back
outright, leave divots and burns.
> For any infeed/outfeed support that you're using, what kind of surfaces do
> they have? For example, if you're trying to slide the plywood onto another
> support that is plywood, then you're going to get some friction causing
> difficulty cutting. Either hardboard, or better yet, some type of melamine
> surface are about as smooth as you're going to get.
The outfeed is the router table, also freshly made slicker than snot for the
occasion. The trouble was the infeed. It needed more support, which I solved
for the moment by stacking and clamping some cutoffs on the Workmate. It
supported the last 2 feet or so, behind me, while I worked as normal from
right at the table. That worked out pretty well, and was all the help I
needed. In the future, I'll look at making or buying a roller stand, or look
at Board Buddies. Maybe just focusing on walking a straight line while
pushing would have worked, but I wasn't encouraged by the first few tries.
MikeWhy wrote:
> The trouble was the infeed. It needed more support,
> which I solved for the moment by stacking and clamping some cutoffs
> on the Workmate. It supported the last 2 feet or so, behind me, while
> I worked as normal from right at the table.
Do you mean you were AT the table or you were on the right side? If the
latter and if your fence is to the right of your blade then you are on the
wrong side. You needed to be on the *left* side of the sheet so you could
keep it against the fence with your left hand and feed with your right. The
same is true of ripping anything.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:8vH1l.1926$c35.1622
> @nwrddc02.gnilink.net:
>
>> "-MIKE-" wrote:
>>
>>> I hope you're not cutting through the foam with your blade. :-)
>>
>> As a matter of fact, yes.
>>
>> About 1/4-1/2".
>>
>> That's why a 2" thick sheet.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
> I use a 1/2" sheet of plywood to support cuts in large pieces. It takes
> a few minutes to adjust the blade depth so it cuts just past the depth of
> the piece and doesn't cut too deep into the plywood.
>
> This sometimes causes a bit of trouble with slightly warped (cupped)
> pieces, as the blade may not want to go all the way through. The 2" foam
> gives a deeper cut, and thus eliminates this problem.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as
> some writers are incorrigible.
And on e-bay no one can hear you scream.
MikeWhy wrote:
> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had
> never tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8'
> sheets of plywood the long way on the TS. A few dry runs with a helper
> had it weaving and bobbing off the fence and table. We tried it with the
> helper making like a featherboard. We tried it with the helper making
> like an infeed support roller, which worked a little better. The
> lumberyard would have ripped it for me at $1 per cut, if I had been
> thinking. But now that it's here...
>
> Is there a secret to a long rip on tablesaws? 8' of leverage easily
> overcomes whatever force I can apply holding it to the fence. I've seen
> conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but never paid
> much attention, since I didn't have problems with the size of work I was
> doing. I can't find them now on online stores. What are those
> roller-things called?
>
> There's no problem on the outfeed end. I just need to get the first 3'
> or so to feed straight enough to not kick back. From there, it's a very
> comfortable rip, just like the ones I'm used to. What's the secret?
>
For important stuff, I always use a table on the outfeed side of the
saw, and a rolling work table on the infeed.
I roll the sheet (on the table) up to the saw and the table stops
rolling when it gets to the saw, but the top is slick enough that the
sheet keeps going. The surface of both in and out feed tables are
slightly lower than the saw top.
Without tables, I'd suggest making rough cuts, then final cuts on the
smaller, more manageable pieces.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
EXT wrote:
>
> My experience is to avoid helpers. ...
>
> I find helpers tend to try to help too much and often move about as they
> are easing the wood through the saw when walking backwards, which causes
> binding and a weaving cut.
I agree about the helpers.
Inevitably, you end up fighting each other, even if you're not trying to.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
MikeWhy wrote:
> Yah. I do that for shorter cuts, but don't have an 8' long straightedge.
>
Sure ya do. You just made 14 of them, right? :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> I think I paid a litle under $40 for my set - and you may find a better
> price if you look around carefully.
>
> They do work well, tho.
>
Those definitely fall under the category of, "worth the money."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Ed Edelenbos wrote:
>
>
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> MikeWhy wrote:
>>> Yah. I do that for shorter cuts, but don't have an 8' long straightedge.
>>
>> Sure ya do. You just made 14 of them, right? :-)
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>
> Or, sacrifice one rip of your next sheet of ply... the factory edge is
> going to be everything you need. Rip an 8" piece and (combined with a
> pair of clamps) you have all the straightedge you need.
Is there an echo in here? :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> An edge guide, a couple of C-Clamps and a 4'x8'x2" foam sheet, and a
> hand held circular saw simplifies life a great deal.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
I hope you're not cutting through the foam with your blade. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>> I hope you're not cutting through the foam with your blade. :-)
>
> As a matter of fact, yes.
>
> About 1/4-1/2".
>
> That's why a 2" thick sheet.
>
> Lew
>
There's another thread going on about saw blade sharpening.
You're gonna need it. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> I use two roller stands actually. One is a single roller stand that I use
> left of the table saw and the other is a 13 roller stand that I use
> primarily for outfeed support.
>
Props for keeping up with the woodworking in the chair.
As to those roller stands....
The ones with multiple bearing balls don't push or direct the stock like
the ones with the single, long roller.
If you have the ones with the single long roller, I find that angling
them ever so slightly towards the fence helps keep stock against the
fence. When they angle away from the fence they try to pull the stock
away, too.
Every advantage helps when you're on rollers, yourself. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
MikeWhy wrote:
> "Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> MikeWhy wrote:
>>> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I
>>> had never tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut
>>> some 8' sheets of plywood the long way on the TS.
>>
>> Get/make outfeed support for both the cut and offcut. Infeed
>> support is good as well.
>>
>> Hold the plywood at the back left corner. I like to have one hand
>> on the back and one on the left side. Start the cut, applying
>> pressure towards the front right corner to keep the board against
>> the fence. Once you get fast the first few feet, move directly
>> behind the sheet and push it through.
>
> I envy you that. It just wouldn't start straight for me. The long
> leverage made it especially easy to over correct. (It turned out to
> be pretty manageable just by adding some support at the far end,
> behind me.
It would be even more manageable if you extended the fence. Consider: you
have a foot or so of fence between the infeed side of the table and blade;
that means you have seven feet or so of heavy, hard to manage plywood
hanging off the end. Even if it were totally supported it would be easy to
wobble off the fence. If you clamp a piece of straight 2x4 to the fence so
that it is hanging off the infeed side by two feet you now have three feet
of initial contact area instead of one.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> roller, which worked a little better. The lumberyard would have ripped it
>> for me at $1 per cut, if I had been thinking. But now that it's here...
>
> I'm not sure why you're having this trouble. With a properly sized infeed
> and outfeed tables and smooth surface to slide on, I've very rarely had
> trouble taking slices off an 8' sheet of plywood.
>
>
Woks for me too.
I recently upgraded the front rail on my Delta Contractors saw to the 50"
version. Of course I had to add a longer wing to match. Then I replaced my
out feed table with one that runs the whole length of the saw. I also have a
small infeed table I built so it will quickly install in the front rail. and
I support it wit ha roller stand. I cut 4x8 sheets of 3/4" MDF all by
myself, as long as I can lift them on the table! One thing I do when cutting
full sheets is to cut the piece slightly wider than needed then make a
second pass to trim it to size. That way if I fudge up the cut I did not
screw up the piece.
Greg
"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> MikeWhy wrote:
>> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had
>> never tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8'
>> sheets of plywood the long way on the TS.
>
> Get/make outfeed support for both the cut and offcut. Infeed support is
> good as well.
>
> Hold the plywood at the back left corner. I like to have one hand on the
> back and one on the left side. Start the cut, applying pressure towards
> the front right corner to keep the board against the fence. Once you get
> fast the first few feet, move directly behind the sheet and push it
> through.
I envy you that. It just wouldn't start straight for me. The long leverage
made it especially easy to over correct. (It turned out to be pretty
manageable just by adding some support at the far end, behind me. I just
stoood at the table and fed it, just like any other rip. Maybe some day in
the far future, I'll try it again... but I suspect I'll just happily pay the
$1/cut.)
On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 18:37:46 -0600, "MikeWhy"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> MikeWhy wrote:
>>> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had
>>> never tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8'
>>> sheets of plywood the long way on the TS.
>>
>> Get/make outfeed support for both the cut and offcut. Infeed support is
>> good as well.
>>
>> Hold the plywood at the back left corner. I like to have one hand on the
>> back and one on the left side. Start the cut, applying pressure towards
>> the front right corner to keep the board against the fence. Once you get
>> fast the first few feet, move directly behind the sheet and push it
>> through.
>
>I envy you that. It just wouldn't start straight for me. The long leverage
>made it especially easy to over correct. (It turned out to be pretty
>manageable just by adding some support at the far end, behind me. I just
>stoood at the table and fed it, just like any other rip. Maybe some day in
>the far future, I'll try it again... but I suspect I'll just happily pay the
>$1/cut.)
What Chris says works for me, too...but, really, what it's all about
is practice. One more thing, though, try real hard to get your
footwork good enough to keep the sheet (or board, if you will) to move
through without stopping. Do some dry runs...plug in your
hands...keeping your eyes on the fence connection. I find the hardest
part to be getting the sheet set up to *start* the cut...the cut
itself is no longer an issue due to repetition. Now, all that said,
depending on the widths of my rips, I'll most always get at least
*one* done where I purchase the stock (at HD they'll do one cut
free...most yards out here will do that) and that cut just a smidge
over the dimension I'm after...this gets the sheet size much more
managable. Then the procedure described above...practice, baby,
practice...
cg
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The concept seemed simple enough, and it didn't occur to me that I had
> never tried cutting anything this long before. I have to cut some 8'
> sheets of plywood the long way on the TS. A few dry runs with a helper had
> it weaving and bobbing off the fence and table. We tried it with the
> helper making like a featherboard. We tried it with the helper making like
> an infeed support roller, which worked a little better. The lumberyard
> would have ripped it for me at $1 per cut, if I had been thinking. But now
> that it's here...
>
> Is there a secret to a long rip on tablesaws? 8' of leverage easily
> overcomes whatever force I can apply holding it to the fence. I've seen
> conical feed rollers that hold the work to the fence, but never paid much
> attention, since I didn't have problems with the size of work I was doing.
> I can't find them now on online stores. What are those roller-things
> called?
>
> There's no problem on the outfeed end. I just need to get the first 3' or
> so to feed straight enough to not kick back. From there, it's a very
> comfortable rip, just like the ones I'm used to. What's the secret?
Long straight rip on a TS? The secret is a sharp blade on a well tuned TS,
and practice. I generally stand on the left back side of the piece with
my left on the side opposite and parallel to the fence and my right hand
on the trailing end.
Of course it is much easier with a helping hand.