IMO..
flat table -- a 36" straightedge -- Starrett sets the standard, but others
are probably close enough and less money. Check front to back at 3-4 places
and side to side at 3-4 places and diagonal. Use a feeler guage. Should be
< 10 thous. everwhere. All the Delta's I've checked (just 2!) are worse.
flange runout -- blade parallel to slot -- I do this both at the same time.
Get a $10 dial indicator and affix it to the table somehow - to the miter
guage if no slop, or hold it down steady, or cut a piece of wood to stick in
the slot tight. Raise blade to top. For runout, keep the fixture at the
same place. Rotate the blade and see how much "wobble" there is. .002" or
less should be good. Most of that is probably the blade. If it's > .002
try another blade. If it continues to be a problem, then probably the
flange. Now slide the fixture front to back of the blade using the same
spot on the blade. Adjust the tabletop to make it < .001".
Next.. fence paralled to slot.. using similar techniques w/ dial indicator
Next.. fence perpendicular to table.. use a good known engineer's square.
clean off all the gook on the trunnions.. lube with a dry lube..
clean off gook on table.. polish with a pure wax.. no silicone
throw out the miter guage -- make some crosscut sleds...
enjoy..
On Feb 11, 9:43=A0am, "D'ohBoy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> 90% sure I am getting the Griz 1023sl.
>
> What should I measure and what =A0measurement tools should I buy?
>
> Thanks!
>
> D'ohBoy
Table flatness - straightedge & feeler gauges
arbor/flange runout - dial indicator with shop made jig or
http://www.ts-aligner.com/
These you can't fix easily if at all
fence 90deg to table - tri-square
blade parallelism - dial indicator with shop made jig or http://www.ts-align=
er.com/
90 & 45deg stops - straight/square scraps
miter gauge stops - straight/square scraps
belt/pulley alignment - straightedge
We expect a post like this when you get it
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=3D28252
Good luck!