I have to make a panel to finish a new wall oven cutout and after some
fiddling at a local paint store have found that yellow over red oak is
a very good match. The person at the store didn't have any stain that
would work but used regular yellow paint to see how it looked. She
didn't know the specifics of how to make a yellow stain from paint but
said that it could be done. So what I'd like to try is to make a yellow
stain by thinning yellow paint, but I'm not sure what the proper
mixture would be, or whether to use latex or oil-based paint. The
cabinets I'm matching are straw colored with gray and pink/red graining
accentuated. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Stacy
I was starting to agree with that except the match from the sample from
the store is so close that I've changed my mind. Anyway, the "panels"
on my refrigerator and dishwasher aren't an exact match (light oak
standard panels) so its a bit eclectic to begin with. As long as I can
match the grain I think it will look fine.
Duane Bozarth wrote:
> Stacy wrote:
> >
> > Actually there is a panel and a drawer I'm going to make bigger. its
> > 34" x 27" total.
>
> OK, just small amount...hope you have a sizable amount of scrap material
> to test on that is large enough to tell what the piece will actually
> look like...
I don't have anything yet. I have to get the wood, but red oak is
expensive.
What mixture do I need to use?
Stacy
Stacy wrote:
>
> I have to make a panel to finish a new wall oven cutout and after some
> fiddling at a local paint store have found that yellow over red oak is
> a very good match. The person at the store didn't have any stain that
> would work but used regular yellow paint to see how it looked. She
> didn't know the specifics of how to make a yellow stain from paint but
> said that it could be done. So what I'd like to try is to make a yellow
> stain by thinning yellow paint, but I'm not sure what the proper
> mixture would be, or whether to use latex or oil-based paint. The
> cabinets I'm matching are straw colored with gray and pink/red graining
> accentuated. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
>
> Stacy
Rather than paint as the base, I'd buy artists' oil colors and use it in
mineral spirits to make the stain...how large a piece do you have to
deal with to get an idea on volumes required?
If you were to start w/ a paint, I'd use an oil base and see if they
have a transparent stain rather than a paint base to start from...then
thin from there.
Stacy wrote:
>
> Duane Bozarth wrote:
> > Stacy wrote:
> > >
> > > Actually there is a panel and a drawer I'm going to make bigger. its
> > > 34" x 27" total.
> >
> > OK, just small amount...hope you have a sizable amount of scrap material
> > to test on that is large enough to tell what the piece will actually
> > look like...
>
> I don't have anything yet. I have to get the wood, but red oak is
> expensive.
>
> What mixture do I need to use?
It'll be a trial and error effort...for such a small spot if you found a
color that seemed reasonable in a mixed oil base paint, that would be
one possible way to start...thin it to a wash and try it--you can always
add more color, you can't take it off. The hard part will be getting a
tint that actually works on the wood you have to work with--nothing but
trying with the material you're going to use will solve that problem.
"Red oak" can run the gamut from a very bright almost pink to cream to
nearly white...so depending on the effect you want, it's going to pretty
much depend on what you start with.
Stacey
Use minwax "Natural" which is nothing more than the vehicle of all minwax
stains
use UTC's to acheive the desired color,
it will take some trial and error but an exact match is aceivable.
when trying out your samples the end color will be as when you first stain
it .As the stain dry's the color wanders but come back when topcoated
when you think you are close to where you want to be then apply a topcoat of
your desire to see what the end product will actually be.
from there you may have more color to add to get it perfect.
It does take a knack and a lot of experience to do this, just about any
color on any wood is achievable.
Good Luck,
George
"Stacy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have to make a panel to finish a new wall oven cutout and after some
> fiddling at a local paint store have found that yellow over red oak is
> a very good match. The person at the store didn't have any stain that
> would work but used regular yellow paint to see how it looked. She
> didn't know the specifics of how to make a yellow stain from paint but
> said that it could be done. So what I'd like to try is to make a yellow
> stain by thinning yellow paint, but I'm not sure what the proper
> mixture would be, or whether to use latex or oil-based paint. The
> cabinets I'm matching are straw colored with gray and pink/red graining
> accentuated. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
>
> Stacy
>
Stacy said:
>I have to make a panel to finish a new wall oven cutout and after some
>fiddling at a local paint store have found that yellow over red oak is
>a very good match. The person at the store didn't have any stain that
>would work but used regular yellow paint to see how it looked. She
>didn't know the specifics of how to make a yellow stain from paint but
>said that it could be done. So what I'd like to try is to make a yellow
>stain by thinning yellow paint, but I'm not sure what the proper
>mixture would be, or whether to use latex or oil-based paint. The
>cabinets I'm matching are straw colored with gray and pink/red graining
>accentuated. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
It's a tough job. There are alcohol and water based stains available
that I would personally consider before using paint. A tremendous
amount of effort can go into matching this, and time will still alter
it's appearance. You might consider a contrasting trim instead.
Look here for a selection of stains:
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=280
(Highland Hardware)
There is a downloadable color chart available, but <insert lengthy
laundry list of reasons why this doesn't help much>.
Good Luck,
Greg G.
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 22:23:03 -0700, "George M. Kazaka"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Stacey
>Use minwax "Natural" which is nothing more than the vehicle of all minwax
>stains
>use UTC's to acheive the desired color,
>it will take some trial and error but an exact match is aceivable.
>when trying out your samples the end color will be as when you first stain
>it .As the stain dry's the color wanders but come back when topcoated
>when you think you are close to where you want to be then apply a topcoat of
>your desire to see what the end product will actually be.
>from there you may have more color to add to get it perfect.
>It does take a knack and a lot of experience to do this, just about any
>color on any wood is achievable.
>
>Good Luck,
>George
That's what I was thinking. My whole house is red oak stuff and I
have played with a lot of stain. Go to the Home store and look at the
samples of red oak and the various stains. Then buy a few small cans
of colors that look close. Then it is just mixing up what you think is
right, trying it and seeing what you got. Be sure to put the top coat
on (poly or whatever) since that shades the stain too. Usually there
is enough variation in natural woods that you can get away with a less
than perfect match.
I like cherry over red oak but that may be too red for what you are
doing. It is a good match for the Kemper cabinet "red oak" we had to
match in the kitchen..
"Stacy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have to make a panel to finish a new wall oven cutout and after some
> fiddling at a local paint store have found that yellow over red oak is
> a very good match. The person at the store didn't have any stain that
> would work but used regular yellow paint to see how it looked. She
> didn't know the specifics of how to make a yellow stain from paint but
> said that it could be done. So what I'd like to try is to make a yellow
> stain by thinning yellow paint, but I'm not sure what the proper
> mixture would be, or whether to use latex or oil-based paint. The
> cabinets I'm matching are straw colored with gray and pink/red graining
> accentuated. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
>
> Stacy
>
Take a look at the General Finishes site
http://www.generalfinishes.com/
They have some yellow stains here. Scroll to the bottom of the page for the
yellow.
http://www.generalfinishes.com/finishes/water-base-finishes/waterbase_finishes.htm#EFCountryColors
In my humble opinion, I would not even try to match what you have. The task
you have is one of the most difficult; evened people with decades of
staining experience often fumble at matching an existing finish. How about
accenting the area with a complimentary color? A botched match job tends to
make one think ---nice try--- whereas an accent panel can be at least
interesting. Just my thoughts.
Dave
"Stacy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have to make a panel to finish a new wall oven cutout and after some
> fiddling at a local paint store have found that yellow over red oak is
> a very good match. The person at the store didn't have any stain that
> would work but used regular yellow paint to see how it looked. She
> didn't know the specifics of how to make a yellow stain from paint but
> said that it could be done. So what I'd like to try is to make a yellow
> stain by thinning yellow paint, but I'm not sure what the proper
> mixture would be, or whether to use latex or oil-based paint. The
> cabinets I'm matching are straw colored with gray and pink/red graining
> accentuated. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
>
> Stacy
>