1. A WorkSharp 3000 was delivered to the house yesterday and I finally
got to set it up and use it. Dang, is this thing dummy-proof and
effective. They did a great job designing it and manufacturing it so
it's affordable. I now have chisels and hand planes I will actually use
instead of curse at. I have wetstones but I'm just not patient enough
to get them out and use them. Having this machine set-up, ready to go
will be my motivation to keep my chisels "scary sharp."
If you're interested in a great price with free shipping, check out
jbtoolsales.com.
While we're at it, someone send me a link explaining how to properly
set-up hand planes. I don't think I'm getting most out of mine.
2. A Ridgid cordless (hoseless?) 18g brad nailer.
I get soooooo many jobs where I just have to nail up a few pieces of
trim and it gets old, fast, carrying the compressor, hose, gun and
tripping over the hose up on a ladder to shoot a dozen finish nails.
I used this on a job, today, on 10ft. ceilings and didn't miss getting
tangled up in an air hose. The only negative is it's pretty heavy for a
nail gun. The DeWalt version is a bit lighter, but since I already have
a bunch of Ridgid batteries, I went with it.
It takes a few minutes to get used to, since you have to depress the
safety tip, wait about a second for the cylinder to charge with air,
then shoot. But you get a rhythm going.
Big plus! No butane gas cartridges, like the old Paslodes.
Anyway, two more tools that I wish I had bought years ago!
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> 1. A WorkSharp 3000 was delivered to the house yesterday and I finally
> got to set it up and use it. Dang, is this thing dummy-proof and
> effective. They did a great job designing it and manufacturing it so
> it's affordable. I now have chisels and hand planes I will actually use
> instead of curse at. I have wetstones but I'm just not patient enough
> to get them out and use them. Having this machine set-up, ready to go
> will be my motivation to keep my chisels "scary sharp."
> If you're interested in a great price with free shipping, check out
> jbtoolsales.com.
>
> While we're at it, someone send me a link explaining how to properly
> set-up hand planes. I don't think I'm getting most out of mine.
>
>
Yeah, I tried the fine wasters stones to sharpen my plane irons and chisels
and I still prefer to work with tools rather than sharpen them. I have
that sharpener too, it works great and fast.
If you don't like sharpening knives, the WorkSharp knife sharpeners work
crazy fast, easy, and are mostly fool proof. I have the Ken Onion version
and my son has the standard electric version. Both work really really well.
On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 10:11:19 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
> 1. A WorkSharp 3000 was delivered to the house yesterday and I finally
> got to set it up and use it. Dang, is this thing dummy-proof and
> effective. They did a great job designing it and manufacturing it so
> it's affordable. I now have chisels and hand planes I will actually use
> instead of curse at. I have wetstones but I'm just not patient enough
> to get them out and use them. Having this machine set-up, ready to go
> will be my motivation to keep my chisels "scary sharp."
> If you're interested in a great price with free shipping, check out
> jbtoolsales.com.
>
> While we're at it, someone send me a link explaining how to properly
> set-up hand planes. I don't think I'm getting most out of mine.
>
>
> 2. A Ridgid cordless (hoseless?) 18g brad nailer.
> I get soooooo many jobs where I just have to nail up a few pieces of
> trim and it gets old, fast, carrying the compressor, hose, gun and
> tripping over the hose up on a ladder to shoot a dozen finish nails.
>
> I used this on a job, today, on 10ft. ceilings and didn't miss getting
> tangled up in an air hose. The only negative is it's pretty heavy for a
> nail gun. The DeWalt version is a bit lighter, but since I already have
> a bunch of Ridgid batteries, I went with it.
> It takes a few minutes to get used to, since you have to depress the
> safety tip, wait about a second for the cylinder to charge with air,
> then shoot. But you get a rhythm going.
> Big plus! No butane gas cartridges, like the old Paslodes.
>
> Anyway, two more tools that I wish I had bought years ago!
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> www.mikedrums.com
I love my Work Sharp. I cut my own leather round, spray glued it to a glass wheel, and added a little compound to really put a fine edge on my blades.
Roy Underhill and friend have some things to say about setting up hand planes:
https://video.iptv.org/video/3004802841/
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> 1. A WorkSharp 3000 was delivered to the house yesterday and I
> finally got to set it up and use it. Dang, is this thing dummy-proof
> and effective. They did a great job designing it and manufacturing it
> so it's affordable. I now have chisels and hand planes I will
> actually use instead of curse at. I have wetstones but I'm just not
> patient enough to get them out and use them. Having this machine
> set-up, ready to go will be my motivation to keep my chisels "scary
> sharp." If you're interested in a great price with free shipping,
> check out jbtoolsales.com.
>
> While we're at it, someone send me a link explaining how to properly
> set-up hand planes. I don't think I'm getting most out of mine.
https://thechristiantoolcabinet.wordpress.com/2013/04/25/minimal-bench-pl
ane-tuning/
I noticed a big difference after properly bedding the frog.
I found the WS does a fantastic job of flattening chisels and plane
irons, but when it comes to the bevel I like the concave bevel off of my
grinder and just a few passes on a stone. I often use the WS and
grinder together: grind a bit, cool, WS a bit to knock off that wire
edge, and repeat.
One more thought: I know Leonard Lee says not to dip the tool in water
to cool it, but I really don't notice a big difference in edge life when
I do. When it takes a few seconds on the WS to refresh the edge, why
waste time letting the tool cool naturally?
For the really fine sandpaper, look here:
http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_discs.htm#6_0_psa
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 16:19:15 GMT, Puckdropper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> 1. A WorkSharp 3000 was delivered to the house yesterday and I
>> finally got to set it up and use it. Dang, is this thing dummy-proof
>> and effective. They did a great job designing it and manufacturing it
>> so it's affordable. I now have chisels and hand planes I will
>> actually use instead of curse at. I have wetstones but I'm just not
>> patient enough to get them out and use them. Having this machine
>> set-up, ready to go will be my motivation to keep my chisels "scary
>> sharp." If you're interested in a great price with free shipping,
>> check out jbtoolsales.com.
>>
>> While we're at it, someone send me a link explaining how to properly
>> set-up hand planes. I don't think I'm getting most out of mine.
>
>https://thechristiantoolcabinet.wordpress.com/2013/04/25/minimal-bench-pl
>ane-tuning/
>
>I noticed a big difference after properly bedding the frog.
>
>I found the WS does a fantastic job of flattening chisels and plane
>irons, but when it comes to the bevel I like the concave bevel off of my
>grinder and just a few passes on a stone. I often use the WS and
>grinder together: grind a bit, cool, WS a bit to knock off that wire
>edge, and repeat.
I've been considering a sharpening system was wondering about the
"hollow grind" that a wheel (e.g. Tormek) would give. It seemed that
one would either have to go one way (hollow - Tormek) or flat
(WorkSharp, Sorby, stone/diamond) but mixing them wouldn't work well
at all.
>One more thought: I know Leonard Lee says not to dip the tool in water
>to cool it, but I really don't notice a big difference in edge life when
>I do. When it takes a few seconds on the WS to refresh the edge, why
>waste time letting the tool cool naturally?
OK, why waste money on good chisel steel?
>For the really fine sandpaper, look here:
>http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_discs.htm#6_0_psa
I clearly have a lot more research to do. ;-) There seems to be a
lot of folklore out there, too. :-(