The switch on my Delta 6" jointer fused closed. I pulled it out to see if I
could free it up, and it just fell apart in pieces.
Perhaps part of the the problem is that it is a 12a switch and the (3/4hp)
motor is 13a.
Anyhow, a replacement is $21, and probably just as substandard as the old
one.
What would happen if I replaced it with a 20a toggle switch. Would it hold
up, or would the starting current fry it? Any cheaper and more readily
available (and more durable) alternatives to the Delta switch?
The only motor switch I have laying around is for 1/2hp motors; oh well.
Toller wrote:
> The switch on my Delta 6" jointer fused closed. I pulled it out to see if I
> could free it up, and it just fell apart in pieces.
Yeah, Delta switches are right on the verge of garbage.
> Perhaps part of the the problem is that it is a 12a switch and the (3/4hp)
> motor is 13a.
>
> Anyhow, a replacement is $21, and probably just as substandard as the old
> one.
> What would happen if I replaced it with a 20a toggle switch. Would it hold
> up, or would the starting current fry it? Any cheaper and more readily
> available (and more durable) alternatives to the Delta switch?
By cheaper do you mean; more cheaply made OR less expensive to you?
>
> The only motor switch I have laying around is for 1/2hp motors; oh well.
Your only option is to buy something new. Plain 20amp lighting switches
are not rated for motors. There are a buncha' options out there, The
best one would be to go to an electrical supply house and see what kind
of switches they have in stock for commercial / industrial motors. You
need a sealed switch. Sparks and dry sawdust do not mix. A standard
lighting switch works fine on the wall, but down in the cabinet of a
saw is a different environment.
Tom in KY, be careful with your a$$ and it will stay around a lot
longer. Maybe you should spend the $21 and if it all goes wrong, then
you can sue Delta and we can all get better switches.
A 20 amp switch is a safer way to go.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> The switch on my Delta 6" jointer fused closed. I pulled it out to see if
I
> could free it up, and it just fell apart in pieces.
> Perhaps part of the the problem is that it is a 12a switch and the (3/4hp)
> motor is 13a.
>
> Anyhow, a replacement is $21, and probably just as substandard as the old
> one.
> What would happen if I replaced it with a 20a toggle switch. Would it
hold
> up, or would the starting current fry it? Any cheaper and more readily
> available (and more durable) alternatives to the Delta switch?
>
> The only motor switch I have laying around is for 1/2hp motors; oh well.
>
>
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> The switch on my Delta 6" jointer fused closed. I pulled it out to see if
> I could free it up, and it just fell apart in pieces.
HD had a little round toggle switch rated for 3/4hp motors for $4. I had to
make a little faceplate to hold it, but that was easy enough once I found
some sheet metal I could cut up. We will see how dustproof it is...
I would have like to have used the Grizzly switch, but it is hard to
mailorder a $4 item. Oddly their catalog says it is 10a, but I emailed them
and they say it is okay for 13a.
"Darrell Dorsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Which model Delta 6" jointer do you have? If it's the open stand model, I
> used a Grizzly model on mine.
>
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G8989
>
Yeh, the open stand J360.
thanks, the grizzly looks identical and is rather better priced!
> "Darrell Dorsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Which model Delta 6" jointer do you have? If it's the open stand model,
>> I used a Grizzly model on mine.
>>
>> http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G8989
>>
> Yeh, the open stand J360.
> thanks, the grizzly looks identical and is rather better priced!
Yes, I had the older 37-190, but it's basically the same. You might want to
have things checked out. A 3/4 hp motor shouldn't draw that many amps. I
wont try to do any calculations cause there are so many factors. But as an
example, I have a 14" Jet bandsaw that draws 10 amps for 1 hp, 3/4hp should
be something less. The switch could be rated for 12 amps, but the motor may
not need that many amps.
This is actually the switch that I used, but it's the same, just has a
paddle: http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G8988
Darrell
>
>
Which model Delta 6" jointer do you have? If it's the open stand model, I
used a Grizzly model on mine.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G8989
Darrell
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> The switch on my Delta 6" jointer fused closed. I pulled it out to see if
> I could free it up, and it just fell apart in pieces.
> Perhaps part of the the problem is that it is a 12a switch and the (3/4hp)
> motor is 13a.
>
> Anyhow, a replacement is $21, and probably just as substandard as the old
> one.
> What would happen if I replaced it with a 20a toggle switch. Would it
> hold up, or would the starting current fry it? Any cheaper and more
> readily available (and more durable) alternatives to the Delta switch?
>
> The only motor switch I have laying around is for 1/2hp motors; oh well.
>
Toller wrote:
> The switch on my Delta 6" jointer fused closed. I pulled it out to see if I
> could free it up, and it just fell apart in pieces.
> Perhaps part of the the problem is that it is a 12a switch and the (3/4hp)
> motor is 13a.
>
> Anyhow, a replacement is $21, and probably just as substandard as the old
> one.
> What would happen if I replaced it with a 20a toggle switch. Would it hold
> up, or would the starting current fry it? Any cheaper and more readily
> available (and more durable) alternatives to the Delta switch?
>
> The only motor switch I have laying around is for 1/2hp motors; oh well.
>
>
Why not? make it a double pole single throw,
about $10.