MDF: Repair or Replace?

On Sunday, December 9, 2012 1:09:09 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sunday, December 9, 2012 7:23:20 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
>
> > [email protected] wrote:
>
> >
>
> > > I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game
>
> >
>
> > > cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have
>
> >
>
> > > worn down near the corners:
>
> >
>
> > > http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorA.jpg
>
> >
>
> > > http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorB.jpg
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing
>
> >
>
> > > this.
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it
>
> >
>
> > > down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick
>
> >
>
> > > MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option
>
> >
>
> > > left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place,
>
> >
>
> > > but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough.
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions:
>
> >
>
> > > http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorDimensions.jpg
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Yes, you could smooth the edge and build a lip with Bondo, sand smooth and
>
> >
>
> > paint but it won't have any shear strength. It is so thin that it wouldn't
>
> >
>
> > be great even in solid wood. BTW, what you have isn't MDF, it is particle
>
> >
>
> > board.
>
>
>
> I thought that particle board had courser fibers like this: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Pole%20Position%20II%20Project/ParticleBoard.jpg
>
>
>
> > Your best repair would be to cut off the lip plus another 1/2" or so and
>
> >
>
> > glue on a piece of wood to replace what you cut off. If you have to have a
>
> >
>
> > lip, rout it into the wood either before or after gluing it on. If you need
>
> >
>
> > to use screws or nails, pre-drill.
>
>
>
> It seems as though you are recommending that I edge glue and add screws into the edge.
>
>
>
> I also assume you don't think that face gluing a piece as shown here would work, correct?:
>
> http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorRepair.jpg
>
>
>
> (That is, provided there are 3/8" thick sizes available).

Actually, I meant 3/16".

Darren Harris
Staten Island,New York.

On Sunday, December 9, 2012 8:58:59 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 21:24:10 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
>=20
> wrote:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> >I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game ca=
binet because I don't want to have too build another one.
>=20
> >
>=20
> >The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have wor=
n down near the corners:=20
>=20
> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20P=
roject/MsPac-manRearPanelDoor.jpg
>=20
> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20P=
roject/BottomofreardoorA.jpg
>=20
> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20P=
roject/BottomofreardoorB.jpg
>=20
> >
>=20
> >I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing thi=
s.
>=20
> >
>=20
> >Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it do=
wn far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if=
* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to c=
ut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't see=
m like it would be strong enough.
>=20
> >
>=20
> >Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions:
>=20
> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20P=
roject/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorDimensions.jpg
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Q: How does a door get rounded on BOTH edges like that? Curious!

It's extremely common on these games. I assume that the wear is due to the =
slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the weigh=
t of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip.=20

> Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the
>=20
> bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the
>=20
> inside, prime/paint it, and forget it.

That lip fits inside a slot, so the dimensions have to be correct.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Sunday, December 9, 2012 10:21:39 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 9 Dec 2012 10:19:01 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
>=20
> wrote:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> >On Sunday, December 9, 2012 8:58:59 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
>=20
> >> On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 21:24:10 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> wrote:
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game=
cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have =
worn down near the corners:=20
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%=
20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoor.jpg
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%=
20Project/BottomofreardoorA.jpg
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%=
20Project/BottomofreardoorB.jpg
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing =
this.
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it=
down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF =
*if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is t=
o cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't =
seem like it would be strong enough.
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions:
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%=
20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorDimensions.jpg
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> Q: How does a door get rounded on BOTH edges like that? Curious!
>=20
> >
>=20
> >It's extremely common on these games. I assume that the wear is due to t=
he slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the we=
ight of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip.=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Um, why is the door scraping on the ground, anyway? I guess it's the
>=20
> walking it does when people TILT it, huh?
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> >> Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> inside, prime/paint it, and forget it.
>=20
> >
>=20
> >That lip fits inside a slot, so the dimensions have to be correct.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Is the door inset or something? If the lip is in a slot, why is it
>=20
> scuffed all to hell? Does not compute. Where are the hinges, anyway?

Here's that pic again:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Proj=
ect/MsPac-manRearPanelDoor.jpg

That is the door upside down leaning against a wall, so you can see that th=
e bottom of that panel/door is where the damage is. There are no hinges. Th=
e lip is placed in it's slot when it is on the cabinet and that keeps the b=
ottom in place. And if you look closely, the top of the panel/door has a lo=
ck in the center.

> Darren, you'd have better luck asking questions with picture urls
>=20
> linked to the query. We could see how these things sit in their
>=20
> habitats.

I thought I did.

I just corresponded with other collectors who have the same problem and app=
arently if you take these doors off the cabinet and sit them in a corner so=
mewhere that lip starts to deteriorate on it's own. I guess it's just the n=
ature of the material.(I'm still not positive what material it is).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

RE: Subject

You'll be time and money ahead if you just cut a new back from a
1/2" sheet of MDF.

Lew

On Sunday, December 9, 2012 7:23:20 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game
>
> > cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.
>
> >
>
> > The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have
>
> > worn down near the corners:
>
> > http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorA.jpg
>
> > http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorB.jpg
>
> >
>
> > I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing
>
> > this.
>
> >
>
> > Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it
>
> > down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick
>
> > MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option
>
> > left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place,
>
> > but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough.
>
> >
>
> > Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions:
>
> > http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorDimensions.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
> Yes, you could smooth the edge and build a lip with Bondo, sand smooth and
>
> paint but it won't have any shear strength. It is so thin that it wouldn't
>
> be great even in solid wood. BTW, what you have isn't MDF, it is particle
>
> board.

I thought that particle board had courser fibers like this: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Pole%20Position%20II%20Project/ParticleBoard.jpg

> Your best repair would be to cut off the lip plus another 1/2" or so and
>
> glue on a piece of wood to replace what you cut off. If you have to have a
>
> lip, rout it into the wood either before or after gluing it on. If you need
>
> to use screws or nails, pre-drill.

It seems as though you are recommending that I edge glue and add screws into the edge.

I also assume you don't think that face gluing a piece as shown here would work, correct?:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorRepair.jpg

(That is, provided there are 3/8" thick sizes available).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 21:24:10 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
wrote:

>I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.
>
>The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners:
>http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoor.jpg
>http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorA.jpg
>http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorB.jpg
>
>I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this.
>
>Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough.
>
>Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions:
>http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorDimensions.jpg

Q: How does a door get rounded on BOTH edges like that? Curious!

Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the
bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the
inside, prime/paint it, and forget it.

--
...in order that a man may be happy, it is
necessary that he should not only be capable
of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

On Sun, 9 Dec 2012 10:19:01 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
wrote:

>On Sunday, December 9, 2012 8:58:59 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sat, 8 Dec 2012 21:24:10 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
>>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.
>>
>> >
>>
>> >The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn down near the corners:
>>
>> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoor.jpg
>>
>> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorA.jpg
>>
>> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorB.jpg
>>
>> >
>>
>> >I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this.
>>
>> >
>>
>> >Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough.
>>
>> >
>>
>> >Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions:
>>
>> >http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorDimensions.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>> Q: How does a door get rounded on BOTH edges like that? Curious!
>
>It's extremely common on these games. I assume that the wear is due to the slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the weight of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip.

Um, why is the door scraping on the ground, anyway? I guess it's the
walking it does when people TILT it, huh?


>> Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the
>>
>> bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the
>>
>> inside, prime/paint it, and forget it.
>
>That lip fits inside a slot, so the dimensions have to be correct.

Is the door inset or something? If the lip is in a slot, why is it
scuffed all to hell? Does not compute. Where are the hinges, anyway?

Darren, you'd have better luck asking questions with picture urls
linked to the query. We could see how these things sit in their
habitats.

--
A human being must have occupation if he or
she is not to become a nuisance to the world.
-- Dorothy L. Sayers

We need to find -jobs- for our CONgresscritters!
-- Larry Jaques

[email protected] wrote:
> I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game
> cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.
>
> The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have
> worn down near the corners:
> http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorA.jpg
> http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/BottomofreardoorB.jpg
>
> I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing
> this.
>
> Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it
> down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick
> MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option
> left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place,
> but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough.
>
> Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions:
> http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Ms%20Pac-man%20Project/MsPac-manRearPanelDoorDimensions.jpg


Yes, you could smooth the edge and build a lip with Bondo, sand smooth and
paint but it won't have any shear strength. It is so thin that it wouldn't
be great even in solid wood. BTW, what you have isn't MDF, it is particle
board.

Your best repair would be to cut off the lip plus another 1/2" or so and
glue on a piece of wood to replace what you cut off. If you have to have a
lip, rout it into the wood either before or after gluing it on. If you need
to use screws or nails, pre-drill.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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