I am getting ready to build a small shed (16X24) for woodworking. I
noticed this week that the prices of 7/16 OSB in TX have dropped
almost in half. $10 a sheet from $17. Does anyone know if these
prices are going to stay or what the "Futures" are for OSB?
I'm not ready for the roof decking but may have to buy it just to save
$7 a sheet.
"Leon" wrote in message
> West U. Have you heard of Gary Chandler? He remodels and builds homes in
> the West U area. He just sold his home that was at Sunset Blvd just west
of
> Edloe and moved in to his new home at the corner of Edloe and Carlon,
first
> street north of Bellaire Blvd.
Heard the name, yes. AAMOF, one of my offices, and SWMBO's, is at University
and Edloe. Reside on Oberlin, about six blocks north of Bellaire ... if
you're in the neighborhood often, you need to stop by sometime and help me
blow out my shop with your leaf blower. ;>) You can drop me an e-mail by
removing the obvious ... the coffee pot is always on. (karlcaillouet AT
nospamyahooDOTcom)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04
I'll have to drop by some time. I'll let you know before hand.
I work with an old friend, George Chandler, Gary's dad. We worked in the
automotive business together in 1977. We ran the BFGoodrich store at
Morningside and Times in the Village. In 1978 I went to manage for a
Oldsmobile dealership downtown and George and I got back together doing
repairs in 1998. Gary is about 4 years younger than me. When my wife and I
met in 1977, she lived on Beach Street off NewCastle, about 1/2 mile from
your house.
"Leon" wrote in message
> IIRC the specs call for 2" long nails. If you nails are goint through 1x
> material, it may not have the holding power if nailed into the edge of 2x
> material.
They're actually nailed into studs behind the sheathing.
>Still only blind nailing will allow for the bottoms to wiggle. I
> use 12" wide material and the specs call for top and bottom nailing.
Yabbut, blind nailing looks so much better on siding, though. It's about the
only thing I don't like about HardiPlank .. that, and it's tough to trim
with.
> So, Swingman are you a builder or contractor?
Yes sir, among other things. :) I am general contractor on about one home a
year. I'm just ready to move forward with another one in West U ...
demolition scheduled for next week, and plans and engineering just finished.
It'll be a**holes and elbows (mine) for the next 6 months. That's why I
haven't finished that damn kitchen bench that's sitting in the shop waiting
for a seat.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04
"tweaked" <vv> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It has been my experience over the last 5 years I've put up
> Hardipanel(sheets) that underlayment is the way to go. Hardipanel does not
> hold nails well and the sheets often will pop loose, especially on the
> edges where you might be trying to nail to half a stud. I don't believe
> there is enough shear value either, but thats just an opinion. I have
tried
> different nail guns and nailing by hand.
> Next year, I will be redoing the non-sheathed walls..
James Hardi has explicit instructions of the type of fastener and length to
use. I have about the same experience of usage time wise and have had no
problems like you are mentioning.
"Leon" wrote in message
> I'll have to drop by some time. I'll let you know before hand.
>
> I work with an old friend, George Chandler, Gary's dad. We worked in the
> automotive business together in 1977. We ran the BFGoodrich store at
> Morningside and Times in the Village. In 1978 I went to manage for a
> Oldsmobile dealership downtown and George and I got back together doing
> repairs in 1998. Gary is about 4 years younger than me. When my wife and
I
> met in 1977, she lived on Beach Street off NewCastle, about 1/2 mile from
> your house.
From 1975 -1979 I lived just off Morningside, on McClendon, and bought my
tires from BFG! ;>)
I've not had the pleasure of meeting Gary Chandler, but have heard of him
through a mutual acquaintance/neighbor who built his first house in Bellaire
last year and received some kind assistance from him.
Give us a holler when you get a chance.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> From 1975 -1979 I lived just off Morningside, on McClendon, and bought my
> tires from BFG! ;>)
Small World. We may have met, I was 22 at the time I was there in 1977.
George managed the store longer than the years that you mentioned. We spent
more than a few hours after work at the Poor Mans Country Club across the
street.
> I've not had the pleasure of meeting Gary Chandler, but have heard of him
> through a mutual acquaintance/neighbor who built his first house in
Bellaire
> last year and received some kind assistance from him.
Gary recently designed, built, and completed a home for a doctor in the
area. IIRC 12,000+ sq feet with a 5,000 sq. foot gymnasium in the back.
The houses that Gary designes stand out from the ordinary.
> Give us a holler when you get a chance.
I'll do it.
Let me strongly suggest not to scrimp on the roof decking. Get the radiant
barrier decking to keep the inside cooler. I am finishing up on a 10x12
storage shed and used the foil sided decking and the inside, even closed up
is no hotter than the outside of the building. The radiant barrier was $4
per sheet extra over regular plywood.
Two more suggestions, Tyvek sheathing instead of tar paper around the
building. No tar smell and it's white color helps illuminate the inside.
Lastly, Hardi Board or Plank for the siding. A bit harder to put up but it
has a 50 year warranty and holds paint well. About $7 for a 12"x12' piece
or $18 for about the same coverage as a sheet of plywood. Hardiplank will
not rot and insects do not eat it.
igor <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:48:58 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>Two more suggestions, Tyvek sheathing instead of tar paper around the
>>building. No tar smell and it's white color helps illuminate the inside.
>
> leon -- Where are you putting the Tyvek? It goes over the sheathing and
> under the siding, so what/how is it illuminating? Do you put it over the
> framing and under the sheathing?
>
Not everywhere in the world needs both sheathing and siding. Those of us
in certain, temperate climates often use 1 product engineered for both
functions. Particularly when working on an outbuilding.
The Tyvek would go over the frame, and under the siding/sheathing.
That's where I put my building felt/tar paper. Under the T-111 (?). But
mine's an 8x12, sized to hold stuff kicked out of the former garage (now
shop), and fit under the 'needs a building permit and variance' size
restriction.
I think I remeber Leon's in the Houston area. Heat reflection would be
very important there.
Patriarch
It has been my experience over the last 5 years I've put up
Hardipanel(sheets) that underlayment is the way to go. Hardipanel does not
hold nails well and the sheets often will pop loose, especially on the
edges where you might be trying to nail to half a stud. I don't believe
there is enough shear value either, but thats just an opinion. I have tried
different nail guns and nailing by hand.
Next year, I will be redoing the non-sheathed walls..
----== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= 19 East/West-Coast Specialized Servers - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building the second house with HardiPlank exterior in the past two
> years. Used "vent skin" construction on both (Hardi nailed to vertical 1"
x
> 4"s on 24" centers on top of the exterior wall sheathing, and the
resultant
> space is vented into the attic behind the soffit where the ridge vents
keep
> circulation going). There is a problem blind nailing Hardiplank ... a
rattle
> that sounds like Bubba's poorly made double wide when you smack the siding
> with the flat of your hand, NOT good in a half million dollar home. Only
way
> around it is to forego blind nailing.
IIRC the specs call for 2" long nails. If you nails are goint through 1x
material, it may not have the holding power if nailed into the edge of 2x
material. Still only blind nailing will allow for the bottoms to wiggle. I
use 12" wide material and the specs call for top and bottom nailing.
> Other than that, HardiPlank is the cat's meow in this area. I also spec
> Hardiboard behind showers/bathroom walls where greenboard used to go ...
> goes a long way toward mold mitigation for those who are excessively
alarmed
> about it.
So, Swingman are you a builder or contractor?
I misspoke here. No sheathing, simply Tyvek stapled on the outside studs,
and Hardiplank over that. I am using the Tyvek simply to keep it dry inside
and to keep the smell out.
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:48:58 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >Two more suggestions, Tyvek sheathing instead of tar paper around the
> >building. No tar smell and it's white color helps illuminate the inside.
>
> leon -- Where are you putting the Tyvek? It goes over the sheathing and
> under the siding, so what/how is it illuminating? Do you put it over the
> framing and under the sheathing?
On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:48:58 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Two more suggestions, Tyvek sheathing instead of tar paper around the
>building. No tar smell and it's white color helps illuminate the inside.
leon -- Where are you putting the Tyvek? It goes over the sheathing and
under the siding, so what/how is it illuminating? Do you put it over the
framing and under the sheathing?
West U. Have you heard of Gary Chandler? He remodels and builds homes in
the West U area. He just sold his home that was at Sunset Blvd just west of
Edloe and moved in to his new home at the corner of Edloe and Carlon, first
street north of Bellaire Blvd.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote in message
>
> > IIRC the specs call for 2" long nails. If you nails are goint through
1x
> > material, it may not have the holding power if nailed into the edge of
2x
> > material.
>
> They're actually nailed into studs behind the sheathing.
>
> >Still only blind nailing will allow for the bottoms to wiggle. I
> > use 12" wide material and the specs call for top and bottom nailing.
>
> Yabbut, blind nailing looks so much better on siding, though. It's about
the
> only thing I don't like about HardiPlank .. that, and it's tough to trim
> with.
>
> > So, Swingman are you a builder or contractor?
>
> Yes sir, among other things. :) I am general contractor on about one home
a
> year. I'm just ready to move forward with another one in West U ...
> demolition scheduled for next week, and plans and engineering just
finished.
> It'll be a**holes and elbows (mine) for the next 6 months. That's why I
> haven't finished that damn kitchen bench that's sitting in the shop
waiting
> for a seat.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 7/10/04
>
>
On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 16:43:11 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Not everywhere in the world needs both sheathing and siding. Those of us
>in certain, temperate climates often use 1 product engineered for both
>functions. Particularly when working on an outbuilding.
>
>The Tyvek would go over the frame, and under the siding/sheathing.
>
Whoda thunk? Thanks.-- Igor
I don't know what the futures markets are doing but we are seeing the same
thing just North of you. My daughter's family is getting ready to build a
victorian styled home in Central Kansas and their builder is rebidding the
entire Bill of Material. He says that prices on sheet and some regular
lumber stock has dropped on average of 25% in the past couple of months.
Steel is just the opposite. My son builds commercial steel buildings for a
Kansas/ Arkansas/ Oklahoma construction company. Their estimators are going
nuts trying to keep up with material prices. He can buy steel building kits
at a fraction of our cost but recently converted from steel to wood on a
personal building project. Looks like we are going to see similar price
changes on machine tools - Grizzly has already warned.
"Elmar" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am getting ready to build a small shed (16X24) for woodworking. I
> noticed this week that the prices of 7/16 OSB in TX have dropped
> almost in half. $10 a sheet from $17. Does anyone know if these
> prices are going to stay or what the "Futures" are for OSB?
>
> I'm not ready for the roof decking but may have to buy it just to save
> $7 a sheet.
"Leon" wrote in message
> James Hardi has explicit instructions of the type of fastener and length
to
> use. I have about the same experience of usage time wise and have had no
> problems like you are mentioning.
I am building the second house with HardiPlank exterior in the past two
years. Used "vent skin" construction on both (Hardi nailed to vertical 1" x
4"s on 24" centers on top of the exterior wall sheathing, and the resultant
space is vented into the attic behind the soffit where the ridge vents keep
circulation going). There is a problem blind nailing Hardiplank ... a rattle
that sounds like Bubba's poorly made double wide when you smack the siding
with the flat of your hand, NOT good in a half million dollar home. Only way
around it is to forego blind nailing.
Other than that, HardiPlank is the cat's meow in this area. I also spec
Hardiboard behind showers/bathroom walls where greenboard used to go ...
goes a long way toward mold mitigation for those who are excessively alarmed
about it.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04