Hello,
My wife recently purchased a new kitchen table made of rubberwood with
a stain and a very light clear coat of something. I would like to add
a more durable finish to table. Ideally, it would just be a few more
coats of whatever is already on it but I can not find any info. What
would be the best way to proceed? Polyurethane? Varnish? Other? Will
there be a problem simply applying this over the top of the existing
finish?
Any guidence this NG can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
-brian
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> My wife recently purchased a new kitchen table made of rubberwood with
> a stain and a very light clear coat of something. I would like to add
> a more durable finish to table. Ideally, it would just be a few more
> coats of whatever is already on it but I can not find any info.
If you don't know what is on the table now, how do you know that a top coat
will be more durable? You could make things worse.
My kitchen table is 24 years old, the dining room table is 30 years old and
I don't have a clue what the finish is but they are still in good condition.
Tempered glass overlay. See the wood, clean the spilled wine off the glass.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> My wife recently purchased a new kitchen table made of rubberwood with
> a stain and a very light clear coat of something. I would like to add
> a more durable finish to table. Ideally, it would just be a few more
> coats of whatever is already on it but I can not find any info. What
> would be the best way to proceed? Polyurethane? Varnish? Other? Will
> there be a problem simply applying this over the top of the existing
> finish?
>
> Any guidence this NG can give me would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
>
> -brian
>
I have a utility room table that I put a few coats of Minwax Polyurethane on
a few years ago.
It has been abused a lot, and still looks excellent. I am surprised at how
tought that finish is.
On the other hand, I have an antique dinning room table that is shellaced.
It is a "repairable" finish, which a lot of people like, but unfortunately,
it needs "repaired" about every 6 months.
My $0.02.
Joe in Denver
my woodworking website:
http://www.the-wildings.com/shop/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> My wife recently purchased a new kitchen table made of rubberwood with
> a stain and a very light clear coat of something. I would like to add
> a more durable finish to table. Ideally, it would just be a few more
> coats of whatever is already on it but I can not find any info. What
> would be the best way to proceed? Polyurethane? Varnish? Other? Will
> there be a problem simply applying this over the top of the existing
> finish?
>
> Any guidence this NG can give me would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
>
> -brian
>
On 17 Jan 2005 11:27:11 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Hello,
>
>My wife recently purchased a new kitchen table made of rubberwood with
>a stain and a very light clear coat of something. I would like to add
>a more durable finish to table. Ideally, it would just be a few more
>coats of whatever is already on it but I can not find any info. What
>would be the best way to proceed? Polyurethane? Varnish? Other? Will
>there be a problem simply applying this over the top of the existing
>finish?
>
>Any guidence this NG can give me would be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks in advance,
>
>-brian
it REALLY depends what's on there.
it's probably laquer.
some polyurethanes will resist being coated with anything, including
themselves.
shellac makes a good barrier coat. it sticks to most stuff and allows
most other stuff to stick to it.
Only if it's dewaxed shellacky...
David
[email protected] wrote:
>
> some polyurethanes will resist being coated with anything, including
> themselves.
>
> shellac makes a good barrier coat. it sticks to most stuff and allows
> most other stuff to stick to it.
On 17 Jan 2005 11:27:11 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Ideally, it would just be a few more
>coats of whatever is already on it but I can not find any info.
That probably needs to be sprayed, and is fussy about technique.
If it were mine, and I wanted _durable_, then I'd sand it down and
paint it with Rustin's Bar Top, an acid-cure formaldehyde. However
that really doesn't like being applied over another finish, so the
sanding is necessary.
--
Smert' spamionam
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:
> Hello,
>
> My wife recently purchased a new kitchen table made of rubberwood with
> a stain and a very light clear coat of something. I would like to add
> a more durable finish to table. Ideally, it would just be a few more
> coats of whatever is already on it but I can not find any info. What
> would be the best way to proceed? Polyurethane? Varnish? Other? Will
> there be a problem simply applying this over the top of the existing
> finish?
>
> Any guidence this NG can give me would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
>
> -brian
>
This is probably way over the top for most people's needs, but
I have had tremendous success with Sikkens Autocryl Clear. (Also
available in 330,000 off the shelf colours *G*)
It is a 3 part system and is expensive. It must be sprayed. The
isocyanates (sp?) in the hardener will kill your ass dead, so bring your
own air. Watch those fish eyes... and clean that gun, cuz if you don't,
it will turn into one solid chunk of whatever...AMHIKT (a week-old
Iwata..still crying..I had finished the job, started talking to a
walk-in customer till closing time, turned off the lights, locked the
doors, went home....in the middle of the night..it was too late...)
But..the finish?
Clear, glass-like, somewhat flexible yet hard as hard gets. I have put
that finish on cherry veneer panels, right next to a gas range 20 years
ago, it has been hit by splattered bacon fat, hell, even my peasoup
hasn't touched it.
It has no colour, clear like water and is good enough for Dr. Porsche's
team to put on their deformable bumpers.
You can also add Sikkens Matting Clear, which gives you infinite control
over the sheen.
The upside to the cost, is that very little of the applied finish
flashes off, so you're left with lots of solids on your project.
I often look to the automotive finishing industry for wood finishing
solutions.
0¿0
Rob