New drill/driver

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:07:23 -0400, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On 6/12/2014 12:50 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:33:33 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Lithium Ion is the most popular and generally best option today.
>>
>> I'm not certain you could call it the most popular. It's the most
>> recent and that makes it the most wanted. But, that also makes it the
>> most expensive. If cost is a big concern to someone, then NiCads are
>> cheaper. "best option" depends on certain conditions.
>>
>Would not even consider Nicads any longer.
>First they don't hold a charge loosing 10% of their charge per day.

Utter nonsense. 10% per month, *maybe*, unless they're shorted
(dendrites).

>Second, cadmium is really toxic to the env. Lithium is not toxic by
>comparison.
>
>Third, The lithiums are priced about the same now... ABOUT, not the same
>but about. If you consider how long the Lithium's last compared to
>Nicads in regular use, it's a win to the Lithiums.. more longevity for
>the same job.

You're right about the rest.

<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:48:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
> I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through some
> tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar thriough a 6 - 8
> inch post.
>
> My biggest concern in the past was that the batteries ran down because
> I didn't use them often enough to charge them every day or two.
>
>
>
>> On 6/11/2014 3:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
>>> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
>>> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
>>> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
>>> comes in handy.
>>>
>>> I would like some opinions on:
>>>
>>> What brands to consider or reject
>>>
>>> What type of battery
>>>
>>> What voltage
>>>
>>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>
>>
>> Perhaps you should tell us what you expect out of the drill first. So
>> far every drill fits your description.

As many have commented, Li-ion batteries. When stored charged and not
under extreme temperatures they can hold a charge for several months. You
should probably stay with a drill rated greater than 12 volt.
Better brands that I have owned would be Festool, Panasonic, Makita.

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 23:54:48 -0500, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:

><[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:48:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through some
>> tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar thriough a 6 - 8
>> inch post.
>>
>> My biggest concern in the past was that the batteries ran down because
>> I didn't use them often enough to charge them every day or two.
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 6/11/2014 3:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
>>>> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
>>>> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
>>>> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
>>>> comes in handy.
>>>>
>>>> I would like some opinions on:
>>>>
>>>> What brands to consider or reject
>>>>
>>>> What type of battery
>>>>
>>>> What voltage
>>>>
>>>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Perhaps you should tell us what you expect out of the drill first. So
>>> far every drill fits your description.
>
>As many have commented, Li-ion batteries. When stored charged and not
>under extreme temperatures they can hold a charge for several months. You
>should probably stay with a drill rated greater than 12 volt.
>Better brands that I have owned would be Festool, Panasonic, Makita.

Why only 12V? Higher is generally heavier but if I had only one
drill/driver it would be 16V (or whatever they claim the voltage is).

On Sunday, June 15, 2014 6:10:32 AM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:

> For someone who does not need to rely on his tools for his job, and can=
=20
>=20
> therefore take a small chance on things, I'd consider HF for cordless dri=
lls=20
>=20
> these days. I don't own any of them so I have no first hand experience, =
but=20
>=20
> I know several people now who have purchased them. They work - that simp=
le.=20
>=20
> I don't know how they compare to some of the other names that have been=
=20
>=20
> talked about in this thread, as far as torque goes, or even longevity, bu=
t=20
>=20
> the price is certainly a lot better.

Hard to tell what to think of their cordless drills these days. I have a c=
ouple of non professional friends that use HF drills, and they seem "OK". =
I think the shortcoming is in the actual torque generated and the battery l=
ife. When I found out that one of my buds was going to screw the fence pic=
kets on his new fence (why... why do people do that?) I asked him to let me=
know how many 1 1/2" screws it would drive. IIRC, it was around 100. No=
t awful, but not good for an 18V drill.

The real problem though, was the fact that it took 6 - 8 hours to charge th=
e batteries if they weren't completely depleted. They didn't hold a charge=
for more than about 10 days, and if he started with a totally dead battery=
it was 12 hours for a full charge. So that ruled them out as job site too=
ls; to have a battery run down and then be unusable for the rest of the day=
just can't work.

But to be fair, that was about 3 years ago, so they may have upped their ga=
me on those drills as they have with so many other of their tools.

=20
> Most of us don't need a cordless drill to bore 1" holes through 6x6's all=
=20
>=20
> day long - and some may never need to do that. Like everything else - it=
=20
>=20
> all depends on the need. The HF drills will drive 3" deck screws all day=
=20
>=20
> long, day after day. =20

Most of us "professionals" don't have the project requirement that beats th=
e crap out of tools day after day. Sometimes you do; for example, if I am =
replacing shingle roofing it isn't unusual for one of my guns to shoot near=
ly 5,000 nails a day! So that gun is something I spend the money on. But =
the only other tool I have that gets the same amount of use is my circular =
saw. Being brought up in the trades as a site carpenter that was the main =
weapon in my arsenal.

Even if a tool goes down these days there are so many big box store around =
that most can easily be replaced. Even my "professional only" tool outlets=
don't sell many premium tools these days, but specialize in carrying indus=
try specific tools, not premium products. And since it is usually more exp=
ensive to repair a tool than it is worth, most broken tools wind up in the =
trash anyway of the guy that bought it feels he got his money's worth.

And since now and then I lend tools to the guys that work for me, I really =
don't want to invest much in job site tools. Most guys these days don't ta=
ke care of tools and frankly (speaking as a carpenter/woodworker), don't kn=
ow how to use them correctly. So sometimes from that aspect alone, less is=
more.

Robert

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 15:09:56 -0500, [email protected] wrote:

>
>With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
>cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
>differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
>woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
>comes in handy.
>
>I would like some opinions on:
>
>What brands to consider or reject
>
>What type of battery
>
>What voltage
>
>Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Jim

Thanks for all the advice. I looked at number of tools and finally
bought a Porter Cable. Drill and battery carries a 3 year warranty.

The Ridig battery warranty sounded good but the drills locally were
hard to find. The few at the big box stores were very pricey.
Jim

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:07:05 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>The only people who will try to tell you NiCads are fine are those who
>bought them and either don't know the difference or are suffering
>buyer's remorse.

GFY mikey.

On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 12:55:04 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 21:55:58 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 6/12/2014 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 23:54:48 -0500, Leon <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:48:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through
>>>>>> some tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar
>>>>>> thriough a 6 - 8 inch post.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My biggest concern in the past was that the batteries ran down
>>>>>> because I didn't use them often enough to charge them every day
>>>>>> or two.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 6/11/2014 3:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a
>>>>>>>> new cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up
>>>>>>>> with the differences between the major brands. I am not a
>>>>>>>> professional woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of
>>>>>>>> times a cordless drill comes in handy.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I would like some opinions on:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> What brands to consider or reject
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> What type of battery
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> What voltage
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Jim
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Perhaps you should tell us what you expect out of the drill
>>>>>>> first. So far every drill fits your description.
>>>>>
>>>>> As many have commented, Li-ion batteries. When stored charged
>>>>> and not under extreme temperatures they can hold a charge for
>>>>> several months. You should probably stay with a drill rated
>>>>> greater than 12 volt.
>>>>> Better brands that I have owned would be Festool, Panasonic,
>>>>> Makita.
>>>>
>>>> Why only 12V? Higher is generally heavier but if I had only one
>>>> drill/driver it would be 16V (or whatever they claim the voltage
>>>> is).
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Might wanna reread what I writ.
>>
>> I certainly don't see a reason, just a statement.
>
>I think you missed what Leon said. Here's his quote again...
>
>"You should probably stay with a drill rated greater than 12 volt."
>
>Note where he used the word "greater" - which is exactly what you are
>saying.

Crap! I read that ten times (both last night and this morning) and
still read it as "stay away". Can't even blame it on the (lack of)
coffee.

[email protected] wrote in news:efdhp9dg7a4dgi6ikicie6fi4gg138j0gq@
4ax.com:

>
> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
> comes in handy.
>
> I would like some opinions on:
>
> What brands to consider or reject
>
> What type of battery
>
> What voltage
>
> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jim
>

Go with Lithium Ion, probably in the 18V range. The Lithium Ion
batteries retain a charge for quite a while, both in use and while
waiting to be used.

I do like my Makita. Panasonic has/had a great reputation. (The one I
bought for my mom reminded me of a tribble with the noises it made.
Perhaps there's something to that.)

It might be useful to pick up and hold the tools before purchasing. I
love the way my Makitas are balanced, even with the bigger batteries that
I bought later.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

<[email protected]> wrote:

> I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through some
> tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar thriough a 6 -
> 8
> inch post.
---------------------------------------------------------
This is a comment on cordless technology rather than a specific
device.

Mid 90's, used a DeWalt 18 VDC drill to drive a 3" Bi-Metal hole saw
thru
3/4" of knitted glass and epoxy.

Unless your post is ironwood, wouldn't give your task a 2nd thought,
and then only momentarily.<G>

ION batteries are the way to go with today's technology.

As far as brands, I'll leave that to others for a recommendation.

Have fun.

Lew




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-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:lncc67$tt2$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

>
> You keep defending your purchase of a terrible, outdated technology.
> You bought them, ok, we get it. But don't pee on my leg and tell me
> it's raining.
>
> The only people who will try to tell you NiCads are fine are those who
> bought them and either don't know the difference or are suffering
> buyer's remorse.
>

The worst thing about NiCds is they can use a very simple charger, but
only if you're careful. Most people (myself included) are not that
careful when it comes to battery charging, so tend to cook the batteries.

I've mostly solved the problem by putting the charger on a timer that
shuts off after the suggested recharge time is through.

Lithium Ion batteries are less tolerant (bad things happen when
overcharged), so tend to have more sophisticated chargers. I can't say
its always true, but one that shuts off when done is a nice thing. (For
some reason, my Makita charger seems to discharge batteries left on it?
Did they forget the diode?)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

*snip*

> Are you looking for an impact driver maybe?
>

That raises a good point. Get a set with a Drill and Impact Driver. Not
only is it convenient to have a drill bit in one and a driving bit in the
other, but the impact driver is a really good way to drive screws.

A set of 1/4" hex to socket adapters is useful as well. If you're working
with carriage bolts that are a little long, a deep well socket makes
installing the nut a piece of cake.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

<[email protected]> wrote:


> I was unable to find either online. Can you give me a link?
-----------------------------------------------
"dadiOH" wrote:

>>Weekly ad and the specific items...
>>
>>http://weeklyshoppingad.com/lowes/
>>
>>http://www.lowes.com/pd_596956-67702-DS18DGL_0__?productId=50170377&Ntt=hitachi+1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dhitachi%2B1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
>>
>>http://www.lowes.com/pd_506283-70-DCD771C2_0__?productId=50040962&Ntt=1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
----------------------------------------------------------
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
> Neither of these are drill drivers.
-------------------------------------------------
So what are they, chopped liver?

Lew



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<[email protected]> wrote:

I think I am going in a different direction for a bit. I have an
ancient Makita 14.4 ni cad (which I thought was working well for me,
but reading this makes me realize how clueless I am) that will pull
the balls of a rhino. I spent $329 for it about << 9 >> years ago.
While I have killed a few batteries, the smart charger does well with
itself, and the helical cut bronze gears in the drill make it solid as
the day I bought it. The chuck is an American made Jacobs with
carbide liners and it will still grip a 1/16" to 1/2" with the same
precision.

It has drilled thousands of holes, and driven many times that of
screws. But the drill is large and weighs a bunch. Still, I will be
undone if anything happens to it as it is my cabinet hanging monster.

It still works fine. But I am taking a look at this tool set for the
first time.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203406854?cm_sp=Homepage-_-Hero-_-Shop_This_Combo

My electrician uses it for all kinds of drilling, screw driving, and
has even use it with a wire brush to clean up fixtures. He uses the
hell out of both the drill and the driver every single day. He is on
his third set. According to him, they last about 2 1/2 to 3 years,
and then he simply tosses them. I have never had any of my DeWalt or
Hitachi drills last longer than that.

I have several entry door replacements coming up, and I will see if it
will bore a hole in a 1 3/4 door. If it will, I am in. I have to
have a really light touch with the rhino killer when running in all
the door hinge screws, and there will be a few hundred of them if I
get all the work I have bid.
<snip?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Do you think Harbor Freight might be on to something?

The above would be a classic HF item.

Lew




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"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

*snip*

> I have no doubt that some of the accessories from Ryobi will fit
> Ridgid and the other way around. It makes sense; why not have
> interchangeability for accessories that provide service for infrequent
> use? Most professionals buy only single use tools, but a homeowner
> may have occasional use for many operations that these lightweight
> accessories would be a perfect fit. I have to say after looking at HD
> this morning I didn't see any interchangeable accessories for the
> respective hand drill lines.

*snip*

> Robert

Black & Decker had an interesting drill concept a short time ago. I
bought one of their interchangable drills last year, and thought the idea
was pretty good. It had a module that was driven by a single motor, so
if you wanted to change from drill to driver, you popped off the drill
module and popped on the driver module. It seemed to work alright, but I
took it back because the motor/gears sounded like it was grinding rocks.

I never did try the impact driver module, based on the gear noises I knew
I was taking the thing back and getting something else.

I think someone here mentioned it and was impressed with the demo unit he
had.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

<[email protected]> wrote
>
> Absolutely. I have commented over the years that I have steadily watched
> the quality of HF tools go up and the quality of higher priced, badged
> tools go down. And with HF's in store exchange guarantee, it is hard to
> beat them, too. The only problem I have with HF is that some of their
> tools are really pretty good and the service life to price is an excellent
> ratio. But some of their tools just aren't that good. But they are
> expanding so fast and improving so much they just might make a credible
> name for themselves across the board one day.
>
Yep, I feel the same way. It is an interesting business model. Open up a
bunch of stores. Sell tools at a super discounted price and expand quickly.
Essentially open up a bunch of stores selling crap. Then...... , once you
have people coming into the stores, start to improve the quality of the
tools. Which is the exact reversal of other tool company's approach.

I was looking at some of the reviews recently of some of their power tools.
Years ago, there were complaints about a tool was just fine except for one
part. Then the complaints stopped. Apparently, they fixed that one part.
I think that Harbor Freight deal with their customer base as one big
research and development lab. Make a tool cheap and see what the people
say. Then order an improvement based on the complaints. Over time, the
tool improves

I am not sure I approve of that model. But as a business-customer service
model. It is probably better than trading on an old reputation for quality
while making crappier and crappier tools. Like you say Robert, more and
more tools are meeting somewhere in the middle.

As far as cordless tools are concerned, most people I have talked to have
indicated that they are buying new tools based on the batteries they now
have. Makes sense the the big companies sell packages of tools and
batteries to get you in the door. After that, you don't want to make an
investment in new batteries and chargers. So you buy that brand for other
tools

I have been following this discussion and went and looked at the Ryobi
tools. They have a number of 40 volt tools for working in the yard.
Including lawnmowers and a chain saw. One lawnmower carried two batteries.
So when one battery runs out, you just swap them and finish the job. And an
eclectic chainsaw for landscaping or the odd emergency, that is perfect.
Obviously can't do a lot of cutting, but for small jobs, just perfect.

I haven't made the investment in a lot of cordless tools. But with the
cheaper versions of these tools getting better and better and the Lithium
ion batteries becoming so prevalent, I may not be able to hold off much
longer.

On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 13:20:49 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>[email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> Crap! I read that ten times (both last night and this morning) and
>> still read it as "stay away". Can't even blame it on the (lack of)
>> coffee.
>
>Don't I know how that goes! It has something to do with age, or diminished
>sexual capability, or something like that...

I thought it was something like that but I couldn't remember.

On 6/12/2014 4:07 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:lncc67$tt2$1
> @speranza.aioe.org:
>
>>
>> You keep defending your purchase of a terrible, outdated technology.
>> You bought them, ok, we get it. But don't pee on my leg and tell me
>> it's raining.
>>
>> The only people who will try to tell you NiCads are fine are those who
>> bought them and either don't know the difference or are suffering
>> buyer's remorse.
>>
>
> The worst thing about NiCds is they can use a very simple charger, but
> only if you're careful. Most people (myself included) are not that
> careful when it comes to battery charging, so tend to cook the batteries.
>
> I've mostly solved the problem by putting the charger on a timer that
> shuts off after the suggested recharge time is through.
>
> Lithium Ion batteries are less tolerant (bad things happen when
> overcharged), so tend to have more sophisticated chargers. I can't say
> its always true, but one that shuts off when done is a nice thing. (For
> some reason, my Makita charger seems to discharge batteries left on it?
> Did they forget the diode?)
>
> Puckdropper
>


I don't know if this is the case with the Makita charger or not but
"smart" charges have been around for many years. I do know that some
chargers will discharge a battery before recharging to guard against the
battery developing a memory.

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:48:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through some
tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar thriough a 6 - 8
inch post.

My biggest concern in the past was that the batteries ran down because
I didn't use them often enough to charge them every day or two.



>On 6/11/2014 3:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
>> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
>> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
>> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
>> comes in handy.
>>
>> I would like some opinions on:
>>
>> What brands to consider or reject
>>
>> What type of battery
>>
>> What voltage
>>
>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>
>
>Perhaps you should tell us what you expect out of the drill first. So
>far every drill fits your description.

On 6/12/2014 12:18 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>
> Pretty hard to go wrong with an 18v Milwaukee with lithium ion batteries.

While I do like my Makita 18v lithium's, gotta admit that the most
impressive bit of drilling/driving out of a cordless I've ever seen was
done using a Milwaukee 1/2 cordless, on 3500 psi concrete, to drill
holes 1/2x 7 for Simpson Titen anchors ... and then driving them in.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 6/11/2014 3:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
> comes in handy.
>
> I would like some opinions on:
>
> What brands to consider or reject
>
> What type of battery
>
> What voltage
>
> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jim
>


Perhaps you should tell us what you expect out of the drill first. So
far every drill fits your description.

On 6/13/2014 6:56 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>> I'm predicting ten years for equivalent powered batteries to be about
>> the size of a thimble.
>
> Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to do with
> the electrons in the shells that are available to change place and be
> used as electricity. Even if you get all of them to change place with
> 100% efficiency (which will also never happen) there is a limit to the
> amount of charge you can get from a battery.


A few here said about the same thing about the SawStop. It's just
vaporware.....IIRC is what was said... LOL

On 6/13/2014 9:15 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 6/13/14, 7:53 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 19:56:02 -0400, "Morgans"
>>> Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to do
>>> with the electrons in the shells that are available to change place
>>> and be used as electricity. Even if you get all of them to change
>>> place with 100% efficiency (which will also never happen) there is
>>> a limit to the amount of charge you can get from a battery.
>>
>> Maybe under our current technology, but that can change. But, if
>> we're both still alive in ten years and enough of my memory is
>> intact, I'll email to say "told you so". :)
>>
>
> Not unless you're talking about something different than a battery.
> If we're talking batteries.... well, there's a reason the dry cell has
> barely changed in size in the last century.
>
>

I'm thinking way too much stuff runs on a hand full of sizes.

On 6/12/2014 11:19 PM, [email protected] wrote:

>>
>> http://www.lowes.com/pd_596956-67702-DS18DGL_0__?productId=50170377&Ntt=hitachi+1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dhitachi%2B1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
>>
>> http://www.lowes.com/pd_506283-70-DCD771C2_0__?productId=50040962&Ntt=1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
>
> Neither of these are drill drivers.
>
> Thanks for trying to help.
>

According to the specs it is
Includes: DCD771 1/2-in drill/driver, two 20-volt max compact Li-ion
battery packs, compact charger, and contractor bag

Maybe you don't know what you want?

On Thursday, June 12, 2014 5:41:50 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]
>
> > On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 14:39:52 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
>
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I was unable to find either online. Can you give me a link?
>
> .
>
>
>
> Weekly ad and the specific items...
>
>
>
> http://weeklyshoppingad.com/lowes/
>
>
>
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_596956-67702-DS18DGL_0__?productId=50170377&Ntt=hitachi+1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dhitachi%2B1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
>
>
>
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_506283-70-DCD771C2_0__?productId=50040962&Ntt=1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> dadiOH
>
> ____________________________
>
>
>
> Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
>
> Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
>
> Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Thanks for this. The internets was useful today.

On Saturday, June 14, 2014 5:30:50 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:

> > The whole tool business these days is nothing more than an inbred bun=
ch of accountants/investors/efficiency engineers that are working to maximi=
ze the dollar from manufacturing widgets.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Amen, and AKA: "price point engineering".

Testify! Applied to pretty much everything these days, I have found myself=
less and less concerned with branding.=20



On Saturday, June 14, 2014 5:01:26 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
=20
> Do you think Harbor Freight might be on to something?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> The above would be a classic HF item.

Absolutely. I have commented over the years that I have steadily watched t=
he quality of HF tools go up and the quality of higher priced, badged tools=
go down. And with HF's in store exchange guarantee, it is hard to beat th=
em, too. The only problem I have with HF is that some of their tools are r=
eally pretty good and the service life to price is an excellent ratio. But=
some of their tools just aren't that good. But they are expanding so fast=
and improving so much they just might make a credible name for themselves =
across the board one day.

Robert

On 6/12/2014 12:50 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:33:33 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Lithium Ion is the most popular and generally best option today.
>
> I'm not certain you could call it the most popular. It's the most
> recent and that makes it the most wanted. But, that also makes it the
> most expensive. If cost is a big concern to someone, then NiCads are
> cheaper. "best option" depends on certain conditions.
>
Would not even consider Nicads any longer.
First they don't hold a charge loosing 10% of their charge per day.
Second, cadmium is really toxic to the env. Lithium is not toxic by
comparison.

Third, The lithiums are priced about the same now... ABOUT, not the same
but about. If you consider how long the Lithium's last compared to
Nicads in regular use, it's a win to the Lithiums.. more longevity for
the same job.



--
Jeff

On Friday, June 13, 2014 7:08:12 PM UTC-5, Morgans wrote:
=20
> Now, would I take a Milwaukee line over these? You bet. Not anything el=
se=20
>=20
> though, and not if I had to pay for it!

I understand. That's why my old Makita is going nowhere. I know what it w=
ill do, how hard it will work, and how dependable it is.

I had not looked at anything Ryobi in too many years to count as I thought =
of them as casual user tools, not anything to depend on. Again, if it hadn=
't been for my electrician, I still would not have bothered to take a look.=
I wouldn't mind a light weight drill though, one that could run up a few s=
crews, drill a couple of holes as needed in routine small repairs. I don't=
always need to kill an ant with a sledge hammer.

And while the name of Milwaukee has come up, it might interest folks to kno=
w the drills are made in the same factory by the same folks that make Ridgi=
d. I found this out from the Milwaukee tool rep, confirmed it later with a=
nother Milwaukee tool rep, then had it confirmed by the tool specialist wor=
king for Home Depot.

Robert

On 6/14/2014 5:11 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> The whole tool business these days is nothing more than an inbred bunch of accountants/investors/efficiency engineers that are working to maximize the dollar from manufacturing widgets.

Amen, and AKA: "price point engineering".

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 14:39:52 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:

I was unable to find either online. Can you give me a link?

><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]
>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
>> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
>> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
>> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
>> comes in handy.
>>
>> I would like some opinions on:
>>
>> What brands to consider or reject
>>
>> What type of battery
>>
>> What voltage
>>
>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>
>As I write, Lowes has two on sale for $99...one is Dewalt, the other
>Hitachi. Both are 1/2", 20v, both come with two batteries (lithium) and
>charger.
>
>I would be content with either, you probably would too.
>
>Hell, I am VERY happy with my $79 3/8" 12v Black & Decker. Lots here
>denigrate B&D but I've never had a problem with any of their tools, either
>pro or consumer grade. The 12v does 3" screws no problem. Lithium is
>definitely the way to go...hold charge well, charge quickly. One charge
>gets me maybe 200-250 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 screws. More voltage = more power.
>
>Brand wise, I really don't think there is all that much difference among
>them anymore. A few - a very few - still maintain a better than average
>rep, Milwaukee for one, Makita for another.

I think I am going in a different direction for a bit. I have an ancient M=
akita 14.4 ni cad (which I thought was working well for me, but reading thi=
s makes me realize how clueless I am) that will pull the balls of a rhino. =
I spent $329 for it about << 9 >> years ago. While I have killed a few ba=
tteries, the smart charger does well with itself, and the helical cut bronz=
e gears in the drill make it solid as the day I bought it. The chuck is an=
American made Jacobs with carbide liners and it will still grip a 1/16" to=
1/2" with the same precision.

It has drilled thousands of holes, and driven many times that of screws. B=
ut the drill is large and weighs a bunch. Still, I will be undone if anyth=
ing happens to it as it is my cabinet hanging monster.

It still works fine. But I am taking a look at this tool set for the first=
time. =20

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203406854?cm_sp=3DHomepage-_-Hero-_-Shop_This_=
Combo

My electrician uses it for all kinds of drilling, screw driving, and has ev=
en use it with a wire brush to clean up fixtures. He uses the hell out of =
both the drill and the driver every single day. He is on his third set. A=
ccording to him, they last about 2 1/2 to 3 years, and then he simply tosse=
s them. I have never had any of my DeWalt or Hitachi drills last longer th=
an that.

I have several entry door replacements coming up, and I will see if it will=
bore a hole in a 1 3/4 door. If it will, I am in. I have to have a reall=
y light touch with the rhino killer when running in all the door hinge scre=
ws, and there will be a few hundred of them if I get all the work I have bi=
d. =20

At any rate, I have used this little impact driver, and it is pretty sweet.=
I don't need one of those often so it might be the ticket for me. In fac=
t, about the only time I could use one is when I am driving the 5" screws I=
use for roof repairs on occasion.

Looking at the DeWalt, Hitachi and Porter Cable offerings, they are all hom=
eowner grade tools. If am going to get something that is more toy-like tha=
t (really... a $100 and you think you are getting a semi professional/profe=
ssional tool?) I will get one with a store warranty like Ryobi. I haven't =
owned their tools before, but if my electrician likes them, I might, too. =
At $50 bucks a tool I am not in so deep that I will be pissed off if they o=
nly last a year of good use.

OTOH, if I was going to buy a "professional grade" tool, I would scout the=
pawn shops for some of the older drills and saws. If I was buying new, I =
would buy Ridgid. I have two 12v drills that are not only well made, but h=
ave been excellent performers for years. I have 2 5" ROSs that have been l=
iterally abused sanding fascia to prep for paint, sanding wood floors for r=
efinish, and used for any other dirty sanding jobs. Replaced a pad on one, =
that's it. They are about 10 years old and have outlasted two Bosch sander=
s that weren't used nearly as hard. I have two little rattler finishing sa=
nders from Ridgid, and they both work great.

My Tim Taylor days are long gone. These days I try to get an exact match o=
f the tool to the job and don't buy more than I need "just in case" of have=
some ridiculous fantasies of the job stalling out if my drill quits. If t=
his little Ryobi can charge in 15 to 20 minutes, I can drive up the job, pl=
ug in the charger, get out the saw horses and set up the tools and I will b=
e ready to drill. If I can use the drill to drive a couple of hundred 3/4"=
screws in and out all day to fit hinges, then I will be a happy guy.

YMMV.

Robert

On Saturday, June 14, 2014 12:32:09 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
=20
> I saw a HD commercial on TV a couple of days ago where the guy was=20
>=20
> swamping and interchanging attachments and IIRC batteries between Ridgid=
=20
>=20
> and Ryobi. I suspect that Ryobi builds both.

Except that Ryobi doesn't build Ryobi. According to the Techtronics Indust=
ry of North America, the manufacture (quoting verbatim Jason Swanson, Direc=
tor of Communications)Milwaukee, Ryobi, AEG, Ridgid, Dirt Devil, Homelite, =
and many more. These names are badges for tools and TIN makes tools << to =
the specs >> of the name holder. They also make tools for Craftsman, and ot=
hers. Most of these names were bought by holding groups as investments wit=
h absolutely no concern wit the quality of the tools they produce.

A quick trio to some of the TIN websites and their affiliates will easily c=
onfirm this nasty arrangement. But this also applies to the holding groups=
that own Jet, Powermatic, and all the brands of hand tools scooped up by t=
he folks that bought Porter Cable, Bosch tools, etc. Although there are no=
doubt a few companies that make their own tools now, I don't know of any m=
ass produced tools.

I have no doubt that some of the accessories from Ryobi will fit Ridgid and=
the other way around. It makes sense; why not have interchangeability for=
accessories that provide service for infrequent use? Most professionals b=
uy only single use tools, but a homeowner may have occasional use for many =
operations that these lightweight accessories would be a perfect fit. I ha=
ve to say after looking at HD this morning I didn't see any interchangeable=
accessories for the respective hand drill lines.

I learn something every day. 40+ years ago when I started in the trades, n=
ames like Festool, AEG, Metabo, Bosch, Festo, Fein, etc. weren't available =
and weren't affordable if they were. King of the hill back then was Metabo=
as I think (not sure) they were the first well respected hand power tool c=
ompany from Europe to make a push into the US. Stuff only a young man coul=
d dream of. Then came the other brands on their heels. =20

I didn't know at the time that these companies would become chess pieces on=
the game of business with whole businesses bought and sold at will. I lov=
ed the romance of advertising that sold "old world tool making brought into=
the 21st century".

This thread got my interest up as to who owns who these days, and I was stu=
nned to find the giant conglomerate AEG had spun off their tool division. =
See if these look familiar:

http://www.aeg-powertools.eu/

It gets worse. I found that the much vaunted Festool group of tools is now=
owned by yet another holding company:

http://tts-company.lt/en/history

Soo... I guess I am saying that it all boils down to the contractors specs =
to the jobber/manufacturer to get the product they want their name on. The=
whole tool business these days is nothing more than an inbred bunch of acc=
ountants/investors/efficiency engineers that are working to maximize the do=
llar from manufacturing widgets.

All of that being said, I must say that in talking to the Ryobi rep and the=
Milwaukee rep at the same time on Contractor's Day at HD was enlightening.=
Both have sold tools for other companies and had been reps for years. Of =
the choices at the store, for a contractor like me both said they would buy=
Ridgid for hard use. Two reasons: First, some Milwaukee products will ou=
t perform some of the Ridgid products in extreme conditions, but the return=
/failure rate was about the same which makes sense at the guts are essentia=
lly the same. Second, the Ridgid brand has that great warranty that no one=
else offers, and both said that was impossible to beat.

Speaking of batteries, just a couple of years ago it was found that most ne=
w Li batteries were interchangeable between Ryobi and Ridgid. If that is t=
he case, that makes it even more attractive to me, a buy that might drop a =
tool off a 2nd story ladder or have it stolen. If the batteries interchang=
e, I will be gladly looking at this type of replacement should the tool its=
elf fail after the manufacturer's three year warranty from Ryobi.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RIDGID-18-Volt-Fuego-Compact-Cordless-Drill-Console=
-Tool-Only-R86008-BRAND-NEW-/201106792983?pt=3DDrills&hash=3Ditem2ed2e62217

Robert

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 18:41:50 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:

><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]
>> On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 14:39:52 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I was unable to find either online. Can you give me a link?
>.
>
>Weekly ad and the specific items...
>
>http://weeklyshoppingad.com/lowes/
>
>http://www.lowes.com/pd_596956-67702-DS18DGL_0__?productId=50170377&Ntt=hitachi+1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dhitachi%2B1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
>
>http://www.lowes.com/pd_506283-70-DCD771C2_0__?productId=50040962&Ntt=1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=

Neither of these are drill drivers.

Thanks for trying to help.

On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 22:14:27 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 6/13/2014 6:56 PM, Morgans wrote:
>>
>>> I'm predicting ten years for equivalent powered batteries to be about
>>> the size of a thimble.
>>
>> Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to do with
>> the electrons in the shells that are available to change place and be
>> used as electricity. Even if you get all of them to change place with
>> 100% efficiency (which will also never happen) there is a limit to the
>> amount of charge you can get from a battery.
>
>
>A few here said about the same thing about the SawStop. It's just
>vaporware.....IIRC is what was said... LOL

Huh? What physical or chemical limits did SawStop go up against?

On 6/14/2014 6:10 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Friday, June 13, 2014 7:08:12 PM UTC-5, Morgans wrote:
>
>> Now, would I take a Milwaukee line over these? You bet. Not anything else
>>
>> though, and not if I had to pay for it!
>
> I understand. That's why my old Makita is going nowhere. I know what it will do, how hard it will work, and how dependable it is.
>
> I had not looked at anything Ryobi in too many years to count as I thought of them as casual user tools, not anything to depend on. Again, if it hadn't been for my electrician, I still would not have bothered to take a look. I wouldn't mind a light weight drill though, one that could run up a few screws, drill a couple of holes as needed in routine small repairs. I don't always need to kill an ant with a sledge hammer.
>
> And while the name of Milwaukee has come up, it might interest folks to know the drills are made in the same factory by the same folks that make Ridgid. I found this out from the Milwaukee tool rep, confirmed it later with another Milwaukee tool rep, then had it confirmed by the tool specialist working for Home Depot.
>
> Robert
>
>
3

I saw a HD commercial on TV a couple of days ago where the guy was
swamping and interchanging attachments and IIRC batteries between Ridgid
and Ryobi. I suspect that Ryobi builds both.

On 6/13/2014 10:38 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 22:14:27 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 6/13/2014 6:56 PM, Morgans wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm predicting ten years for equivalent powered batteries to be about
>>>> the size of a thimble.
>>>
>>> Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to do with
>>> the electrons in the shells that are available to change place and be
>>> used as electricity. Even if you get all of them to change place with
>>> 100% efficiency (which will also never happen) there is a limit to the
>>> amount of charge you can get from a battery.
>>
>>
>> A few here said about the same thing about the SawStop. It's just
>> vaporware.....IIRC is what was said... LOL
>
> Huh? What physical or chemical limits did SawStop go up against?
>
It had mentality barriers to get through.

[email protected] wrote:
> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
> comes in handy.
>
> I would like some opinions on:
>
> What brands to consider or reject
>
> What type of battery
>
> What voltage
>
> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jim

I have fallen in love with my Ridgid stuff - especially with the lifetime
warranty that even covers the batteries. I don't think any other
manufacturer covers their batteries. Full on lifetime warranty. The only
thing is that you have to make sure you go to their web site and register
everything by serial number. Drill body, batteries, and any other component
you buy. I have used the warranty program and it is hassle free as long as
you have done your part. Plenty of power, balanced (to my hand), and
durable.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 6/11/14, 4:20 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
>> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
>> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
>> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
>> comes in handy.
>>
>> I would like some opinions on:
>>
>> What brands to consider or reject
>>
>> What type of battery
>>
>> What voltage
>>
>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Jim
>
> I have fallen in love with my Ridgid stuff - especially with the lifetime
> warranty that even covers the batteries. I don't think any other
> manufacturer covers their batteries. Full on lifetime warranty. The only
> thing is that you have to make sure you go to their web site and register
> everything by serial number. Drill body, batteries, and any other component
> you buy. I have used the warranty program and it is hassle free as long as
> you have done your part. Plenty of power, balanced (to my hand), and
> durable.
>

I'll second the Ridgid drills.
Mine have held up great and perform as good or better than any cordless
I've used.
The LiIon batts do not discharge in storage.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/12/14, 6:33 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:07:23 -0400, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>> Third, The lithiums are priced about the same now... ABOUT, not the
>> same but about. If you consider how long the Lithium's last
>> compared to Nicads in regular use, it's a win to the Lithiums..
>> more longevity for the same job.
>
> Sorry, can't agree. Two DeWalt 18v NiCads go for $99 right now in
> Home Depot. The nearest comparable 20v DeWalt lithiums are $149. To
> me anyway, that's not "about".
>
> I do agree that lithiums are superior in almost every way, but they
> do cost more, at least for now.
>

You keep defending your purchase of a terrible, outdated technology.
You bought them, ok, we get it. But don't pee on my leg and tell me
it's raining.

The only people who will try to tell you NiCads are fine are those who
bought them and either don't know the difference or are suffering
buyer's remorse.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2014-06-12, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:48:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
> I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through some
> tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar thriough a 6 - 8
> inch post.
>
> My biggest concern in the past was that the batteries ran down because
> I didn't use them often enough to charge them every day or two.

Sounds like you need one of these:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ae/PalmercarpenterA.jpg/589px-PalmercarpenterA.jpg

Looks like it can handle augering through an 8" post.

--
Grant Edwards grant.b.edwards Yow! ... he dominates the
at DECADENT SUBWAY SCENE.
gmail.com

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
> comes in handy.
>
> I would like some opinions on:
>
> What brands to consider or reject
>
> What type of battery
>
> What voltage
>


Pretty hard to go wrong with an 18v Milwaukee with lithium ion batteries. I
use the heck out of my cordless drills as a licensed communications
contractor, and I've let the magic smoke out of a few drills cordless and
otherwise in the last couple decades.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
> comes in handy.
>
> I would like some opinions on:
>
> What brands to consider or reject
>
> What type of battery
>
> What voltage
>
> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

As I write, Lowes has two on sale for $99...one is Dewalt, the other
Hitachi. Both are 1/2", 20v, both come with two batteries (lithium) and
charger.

I would be content with either, you probably would too.

Hell, I am VERY happy with my $79 3/8" 12v Black & Decker. Lots here
denigrate B&D but I've never had a problem with any of their tools, either
pro or consumer grade. The 12v does 3" screws no problem. Lithium is
definitely the way to go...hold charge well, charge quickly. One charge
gets me maybe 200-250 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 screws. More voltage = more power.

Brand wise, I really don't think there is all that much difference among
them anymore. A few - a very few - still maintain a better than average
rep, Milwaukee for one, Makita for another.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 14:39:52 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> I was unable to find either online. Can you give me a link?
.

Weekly ad and the specific items...

http://weeklyshoppingad.com/lowes/

http://www.lowes.com/pd_596956-67702-DS18DGL_0__?productId=50170377&Ntt=hitachi+1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dhitachi%2B1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=

http://www.lowes.com/pd_506283-70-DCD771C2_0__?productId=50040962&Ntt=1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 18:41:50 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]
> > > On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 14:39:52 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > I was unable to find either online. Can you give me a link?
> > .
> >
> > Weekly ad and the specific items...
> >
> > http://weeklyshoppingad.com/lowes/
> >
> > http://www.lowes.com/pd_596956-67702-DS18DGL_0__?productId=50170377&Ntt=hitachi+1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dhitachi%2B1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
> >
> > http://www.lowes.com/pd_506283-70-DCD771C2_0__?productId=50040962&Ntt=1%2F2%22+drill&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bdrill&facetInfo=
>
> Neither of these are drill drivers.

?? What do you consider a drill/driver to be? AFAIK, it is a drill with an
adjustable clutch to adjust torque. Both of the above have that.
Personally, I don't find a clutch of that type very useful, rarely use it.

Here's a Bosch - same price - that has the "drill/driver" label. It has an
amp/hour rating about 50% higer than the Dewalt and Hitachi ones.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=329087-353-DDBB180-02&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3962441&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Are you looking for an impact driver maybe?


--

dadiOH
____________________________

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Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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On 6/13/14, 4:31 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> ?? What do you consider a drill/driver to be? AFAIK, it is a drill
> with an adjustable clutch to adjust torque. Both of the above have
> that. Personally, I don't find a clutch of that type very useful,
> rarely use it.
>
> Here's a Bosch - same price - that has the "drill/driver" label. It
> has an amp/hour rating about 50% higer than the Dewalt and Hitachi
> ones.
> http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=329087-353-DDBB180-02&langId=-
>1&storeId=10151&productId=3962441&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
>
>
>

I own an earlier model of that Bosch and it's a great tool.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

[email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 21:55:58 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 6/12/2014 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 23:54:48 -0500, Leon <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:48:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through
>>>>> some tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar
>>>>> thriough a 6 - 8 inch post.
>>>>>
>>>>> My biggest concern in the past was that the batteries ran down
>>>>> because I didn't use them often enough to charge them every day
>>>>> or two.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 6/11/2014 3:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a
>>>>>>> new cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up
>>>>>>> with the differences between the major brands. I am not a
>>>>>>> professional woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of
>>>>>>> times a cordless drill comes in handy.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I would like some opinions on:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What brands to consider or reject
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What type of battery
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What voltage
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Jim
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Perhaps you should tell us what you expect out of the drill
>>>>>> first. So far every drill fits your description.
>>>>
>>>> As many have commented, Li-ion batteries. When stored charged
>>>> and not under extreme temperatures they can hold a charge for
>>>> several months. You should probably stay with a drill rated
>>>> greater than 12 volt.
>>>> Better brands that I have owned would be Festool, Panasonic,
>>>> Makita.
>>>
>>> Why only 12V? Higher is generally heavier but if I had only one
>>> drill/driver it would be 16V (or whatever they claim the voltage
>>> is).
>>>
>>
>>
>> Might wanna reread what I writ.
>
> I certainly don't see a reason, just a statement.

I think you missed what Leon said. Here's his quote again...

"You should probably stay with a drill rated greater than 12 volt."

Note where he used the word "greater" - which is exactly what you are
saying.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

[email protected] wrote:

>
> Crap! I read that ten times (both last night and this morning) and
> still read it as "stay away". Can't even blame it on the (lack of)
> coffee.

Don't I know how that goes! It has something to do with age, or diminished
sexual capability, or something like that...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 6/13/14, 12:20 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> Crap! I read that ten times (both last night and this morning) and
>> still read it as "stay away". Can't even blame it on the (lack of)
>> coffee.
>
> Don't I know how that goes! It has something to do with age, or diminished
> sexual capability, or something like that...
>

Change subject line to "drill/drive[h]er"


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

> I'm predicting ten years for equivalent powered batteries to be about
> the size of a thimble.

Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to do with the
electrons in the shells that are available to change place and be used as
electricity. Even if you get all of them to change place with 100%
efficiency (which will also never happen) there is a limit to the amount of
charge you can get from a battery.
--
Jim in NC


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<[email protected]> wrote
>
> It still works fine. But I am taking a look at this tool set for the
> first time.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203406854?cm_sp=Homepage-_-Hero-_-Shop_This_Combo
>
> My electrician uses it for all kinds of drilling, screw driving, and has
> even use it with a wire brush to clean up fixtures. He uses the hell out
> of both the drill and the driver every single day. He is on his third
> set. According to him, they last about 2 1/2 to 3 years, and then he
> simply tosses them. I have never had any of my DeWalt or Hitachi drills
> last longer than that.

The guy I was working for had that line of tools. I loved them. The
smaller battery is OK for running some screws in, but for heavy drilling or
sawing, you want the 4000mAh pack, for length of run and higher pull of
amps. Drilled 5/8th holes in 2x pressure treated, and ran portable skill
saws and sawzalls all day long. Never had a lack of power. They also have
a huge line of tools using the same system, all the way up to leaf blowers
and weed eaters, to saws, jigsaws, sawzalls and impact drivers. That is a
huge plus for me. Also have a charging station to charge a bunch of
batteries at one time. You can't go wrong, IMHO. They truly are as tough
as industrial/professional tools.

Now, would I take a Milwaukee line over these? You bet. Not anything else
though, and not if I had to pay for it!
--
Jim in NC




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Morgans wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> It still works fine. But I am taking a look at this tool set for the
>> first time.
>>
>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203406854?cm_sp=Homepage-_-Hero-_-Shop_This_Combo
>>
>> My electrician uses it for all kinds of drilling, screw driving, and
>> has even use it with a wire brush to clean up fixtures. He uses the
>> hell out of both the drill and the driver every single day. He is
>> on his third set. According to him, they last about 2 1/2 to 3
>> years, and then he simply tosses them. I have never had any of my
>> DeWalt or Hitachi drills last longer than that.
>
> The guy I was working for had that line of tools. I loved them. The
> smaller battery is OK for running some screws in, but for heavy
> drilling or sawing, you want the 4000mAh pack, for length of run and
> higher pull of amps. Drilled 5/8th holes in 2x pressure treated, and
> ran portable skill saws and sawzalls all day long. Never had a lack
> of power. They also have a huge line of tools using the same system,
> all the way up to leaf blowers and weed eaters, to saws, jigsaws,
> sawzalls and impact drivers. That is a huge plus for me. Also have
> a charging station to charge a bunch of batteries at one time. You
> can't go wrong, IMHO. They truly are as tough as
> industrial/professional tools.
> Now, would I take a Milwaukee line over these? You bet. Not
> anything else though, and not if I had to pay for it!

My son got one of those kits, but with two other tools in the kit. Can't
remember what the two others were but I think one was a circular saw - or
maybe a sawzall. Either way - it was back in the day when I worked at HD
and I had found out one night - as we were all leaving the store after
closing, that this set was up in the racking and that it was scheduled to go
down to a penny at the end of the next day (going down to a penny is the
trigger to throw the stuff away). It had somehow gotten
lost/forgotten/something... and was just collecting dust up in the racks.
The clock had continued to tick on this set and at that point it was down to
something like $20 (automatic markdowns driven by the clock), or something
really stupid like that. Someone called my son and told him to have his ass
waiting at the door to the store the very moment that they opened. He did,
and he walked out of the store with that fine catch in hand. Brand new, not
a return, and full warranty. You'd be surprised how often stuff like that
happens.

The best deal we ever got - oops... he ever got, was when I showed up for
work one day and discovered a pallet with 76 bags of lawn fertilizer with
weed killer on display in outside garden, with a sign advertising 1cent
each. Somebody screwed up because as I said - at a penny the stuff is
supposed to be in the compactor, but they had actually put this on the floor
with the price. Well - again, someone called my son and told him to get his
ass over to the store. So he did. Bought 76 bags of fertilizer for $ 0.76
plus tax. Someone had moved the pallet before he arrived and it was a bit
of a longer haul to get it to his truck - from somewhere in the back of
outside garden. I just don't understand that - nobody ever goes back
there... I of course, was quite upset because it took more battery power to
bring that pallet up from way back there, and load it in his truck with a
Reach. I'm very corporate minded that way, ya know.


--

-Mike-
[email protected]

[email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 19:56:02 -0400, "Morgans"
>> Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to do
>> with the electrons in the shells that are available to change place
>> and be used as electricity. Even if you get all of them to change
>> place with 100% efficiency (which will also never happen) there is a
>> limit to the amount of charge you can get from a battery.
>
> Maybe under our current technology, but that can change.
> But, if we're both still alive in ten years and enough of my memory is
> intact, I'll email to say "told you so". :)

Give up on that one Dave. Hell - our memories are already the second thing
to go on us - what hope can we possibly have in 10 more years?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 6/13/14, 7:53 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 19:56:02 -0400, "Morgans"
>> Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to do
>> with the electrons in the shells that are available to change place
>> and be used as electricity. Even if you get all of them to change
>> place with 100% efficiency (which will also never happen) there is
>> a limit to the amount of charge you can get from a battery.
>
> Maybe under our current technology, but that can change. But, if
> we're both still alive in ten years and enough of my memory is
> intact, I'll email to say "told you so". :)
>

Not unless you're talking about something different than a battery.
If we're talking batteries.... well, there's a reason the dry cell has
barely changed in size in the last century.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/13/14, 10:15 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 6/13/2014 9:15 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 6/13/14, 7:53 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 19:56:02 -0400, "Morgans"
>>>> Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to
>>>> do with the electrons in the shells that are available to
>>>> change place and be used as electricity. Even if you get all
>>>> of them to change place with 100% efficiency (which will also
>>>> never happen) there is a limit to the amount of charge you can
>>>> get from a battery.
>>>
>>> Maybe under our current technology, but that can change. But, if
>>> we're both still alive in ten years and enough of my memory is
>>> intact, I'll email to say "told you so". :)
>>>
>>
>> Not unless you're talking about something different than a
>> battery. If we're talking batteries.... well, there's a reason the
>> dry cell has barely changed in size in the last century.
>>
>>
>
> I'm thinking way too much stuff runs on a hand full of sizes.


The basic volt/amp sizes have barely changed in since the invention off
the dry cell.
Simple physics/chemistry. Heck, even electric cars are basically a
zillion AAs tied together.

The size of a 1.5volt dry cell at a certain amperage has remained the
same for a century, no matter the material inside.

That can't be said of many other technologies over the past 100 years.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]

> And while the name of Milwaukee has come up, it might interest folks to
> know the drills are made in the same factory by the same folks that make
> Ridgid. I found this out from the Milwaukee tool rep, confirmed it later
> with another Milwaukee tool rep, then had it confirmed by the tool
> specialist working for Home Depot.


My opinion of Ridgid just went up a notch. Oh, alright, two notches :)

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Leon wrote:

>
> I saw a HD commercial on TV a couple of days ago where the guy was
> swamping and interchanging attachments and IIRC batteries between
> Ridgid and Ryobi. I suspect that Ryobi builds both.

I have not seen that commercial and I had no idea that any manufacturer's
batteries were interchangable, but I'm not surprised. Milwaukee, Ryobi,
Ridgid (and more...) are all manufactured by TTI for One World Technologies.
I'm pretty sure I have that right. It gets hard to stay abreast of who owns
who, who manufactures for who, etc, but I'm pretty sure that is current
information. So - it wouldn't surprise me if there isn't a new trend
beginning that allows for interchangeability.

Being manufactured by the same company implies no other similarities between
the tools though.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Lee Michaels wrote:

>
> I haven't made the investment in a lot of cordless tools. But with
> the cheaper versions of these tools getting better and better and the
> Lithium ion batteries becoming so prevalent, I may not be able to
> hold off much longer.

For someone who does not need to rely on his tools for his job, and can
therefore take a small chance on things, I'd consider HF for cordless drills
these days. I don't own any of them so I have no first hand experience, but
I know several people now who have purchased them. They work - that simple.
I don't know how they compare to some of the other names that have been
talked about in this thread, as far as torque goes, or even longevity, but
the price is certainly a lot better.

Most of us don't need a cordless drill to bore 1" holes through 6x6's all
day long - and some may never need to do that. Like everything else - it
all depends on the need. The HF drills will drive 3" deck screws all day
long, day after day. I've seen that - though like I say, that's a qualified
statement... I've only seen it for a few days here and there. I think I'd
trust them for that kind of need, based on what I've seen.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

[email protected] wrote:
> On Sunday, June 15, 2014 6:10:32 AM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
>
>> For someone who does not need to rely on his tools for his job, and can
>>
>> therefore take a small chance on things, I'd consider HF for cordless drills
>>
>> these days. I don't own any of them so I have no first hand experience, but
>>
>> I know several people now who have purchased them. They work - that simple.
>>
>> I don't know how they compare to some of the other names that have been
>>
>> talked about in this thread, as far as torque goes, or even longevity, but
>>
>> the price is certainly a lot better.
> Hard to tell what to think of their cordless drills these days. I have a couple of non professional friends that use HF drills, and they seem "OK". I think the shortcoming is in the actual torque generated and the battery life. When I found out that one of my buds was going to screw the fence pickets on his new fence (why... why do people do that?) I asked him to let me know how many 1 1/2" screws it would drive. IIRC, it was around 100. Not awful, but not good for an 18V drill.
>
> The real problem though, was the fact that it took 6 - 8 hours to charge the batteries if they weren't completely depleted. They didn't hold a charge for more than about 10 days, and if he started with a totally dead battery it was 12 hours for a full charge. So that ruled them out as job site tools; to have a battery run down and then be unusable for the rest of the day just can't work.

I'm just seconding this post (as I have a HF drill).

It lacks torque, and the battery is "high maintenance" as indicated above.

I used my Bosch driver this weekend, and the meter on the battery
indicated "full charge" even though I haven't charged it since last fall.

As someone who doesn't use a drill everyday, that sort of handiness is
appreciated!

Bill


>
> But to be fair, that was about 3 years ago, so they may have upped their game on those drills as they have with so many other of their tools.
>
>
>> Most of us don't need a cordless drill to bore 1" holes through 6x6's all
>>
>> day long - and some may never need to do that. Like everything else - it
>>
>> all depends on the need. The HF drills will drive 3" deck screws all day
>>
>> long, day after day.
> Most of us "professionals" don't have the project requirement that beats the crap out of tools day after day. Sometimes you do; for example, if I am replacing shingle roofing it isn't unusual for one of my guns to shoot nearly 5,000 nails a day! So that gun is something I spend the money on. But the only other tool I have that gets the same amount of use is my circular saw. Being brought up in the trades as a site carpenter that was the main weapon in my arsenal.
>
> Even if a tool goes down these days there are so many big box store around that most can easily be replaced. Even my "professional only" tool outlets don't sell many premium tools these days, but specialize in carrying industry specific tools, not premium products. And since it is usually more expensive to repair a tool than it is worth, most broken tools wind up in the trash anyway of the guy that bought it feels he got his money's worth.
>
> And since now and then I lend tools to the guys that work for me, I really don't want to invest much in job site tools. Most guys these days don't take care of tools and frankly (speaking as a carpenter/woodworker), don't know how to use them correctly. So sometimes from that aspect alone, less is more.
>
> Robert
>

<[email protected]> wrote
>
> And while the name of Milwaukee has come up, it might interest folks to
> know the drills are made in the same factory by the same folks that make
> Ridgid. I found this out from the Milwaukee tool rep, confirmed it later
> with another Milwaukee tool rep, then had it confirmed by the tool
> specialist working for Home Depot.

VERy interesting, indeed. Worth checking out. I have to wonder if the same
engineering and quality material goes into the Ridgid as the Milwaukee.
I would be pretty confident they are significantly different, but perhaps
the Ridgid is still worth an extra look.
--
Jim in NC


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<[email protected]> wrote

> And since now and then I lend tools to the guys that work for me, I really
> don't want to invest much in job site tools. Most guys these days don't
> take care of tools and frankly (speaking as a carpenter/woodworker), don't
> know how to use them correctly. So sometimes from that aspect alone, less
> is more.


Don't need to buy new circular saws. I bought two Milwaukee circular saws
in 82 and 87 and both are still running strong, with only one greasing
because I felt guilty, and a few switches and cords.

They may be heavy, but they are heavy duty. I can't see these saws ever
conking out.
--
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On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 19:56:02 -0400, "Morgans"
>Nope. Never happen. It is physics, and chemistry. It has to do with the
>electrons in the shells that are available to change place and be used as
>electricity. Even if you get all of them to change place with 100%
>efficiency (which will also never happen) there is a limit to the amount of
>charge you can get from a battery.

Maybe under our current technology, but that can change.
But, if we're both still alive in ten years and enough of my memory is
intact, I'll email to say "told you so". :)

On 6/12/2014 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 23:54:48 -0500, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:48:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through some
>>> tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar thriough a 6 - 8
>>> inch post.
>>>
>>> My biggest concern in the past was that the batteries ran down because
>>> I didn't use them often enough to charge them every day or two.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 6/11/2014 3:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
>>>>> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
>>>>> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
>>>>> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
>>>>> comes in handy.
>>>>>
>>>>> I would like some opinions on:
>>>>>
>>>>> What brands to consider or reject
>>>>>
>>>>> What type of battery
>>>>>
>>>>> What voltage
>>>>>
>>>>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>>> Jim
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Perhaps you should tell us what you expect out of the drill first. So
>>>> far every drill fits your description.
>>
>> As many have commented, Li-ion batteries. When stored charged and not
>> under extreme temperatures they can hold a charge for several months. You
>> should probably stay with a drill rated greater than 12 volt.
>> Better brands that I have owned would be Festool, Panasonic, Makita.
>
> Why only 12V? Higher is generally heavier but if I had only one
> drill/driver it would be 16V (or whatever they claim the voltage is).
>


Might wanna reread what I writ.

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 21:55:58 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 6/12/2014 8:08 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 23:54:48 -0500, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:48:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I occasionally have a need to drive 3" screws or drill through some
>>>> tough lumber. Sometimes I need to drill with an augar thriough a 6 - 8
>>>> inch post.
>>>>
>>>> My biggest concern in the past was that the batteries ran down because
>>>> I didn't use them often enough to charge them every day or two.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On 6/11/2014 3:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
>>>>>> cordless drill. I want a drill driver but haven't kept up with the
>>>>>> differences between the major brands. I am not a professional
>>>>>> woodworker but with a farm there are plenty of times a cordless drill
>>>>>> comes in handy.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I would like some opinions on:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What brands to consider or reject
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What type of battery
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What voltage
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jim
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Perhaps you should tell us what you expect out of the drill first. So
>>>>> far every drill fits your description.
>>>
>>> As many have commented, Li-ion batteries. When stored charged and not
>>> under extreme temperatures they can hold a charge for several months. You
>>> should probably stay with a drill rated greater than 12 volt.
>>> Better brands that I have owned would be Festool, Panasonic, Makita.
>>
>> Why only 12V? Higher is generally heavier but if I had only one
>> drill/driver it would be 16V (or whatever they claim the voltage is).
>>
>
>
>Might wanna reread what I writ.

I certainly don't see a reason, just a statement.

On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 09:03:12 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On 6/13/14, 4:31 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> ?? What do you consider a drill/driver to be? AFAIK, it is a drill
>> with an adjustable clutch to adjust torque. Both of the above have
>> that. Personally, I don't find a clutch of that type very useful,
>> rarely use it.
>>
>> Here's a Bosch - same price - that has the "drill/driver" label. It
>> has an amp/hour rating about 50% higer than the Dewalt and Hitachi
>> ones.
>> http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=329087-353-DDBB180-02&langId=-
> >1&storeId=10151&productId=3962441&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
>>
>>
>>
>
>I own an earlier model of that Bosch and it's a great tool.

I have two of them. Two batteries were the same price as the driver
and the impact driver, so I bought a second pair. This is a steal,
though. For $100, you get two $80 batteries, the drill and a charger.

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:07:23 -0400, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>Would not even consider Nicads any longer.
>First they don't hold a charge loosing 10% of their charge per day.
>Second, cadmium is really toxic to the env. Lithium is not toxic by
>comparison.

Don't know about your NiCads, but the two DeWalt XRP 18v NiCad
batteries I've got are the ones that came with the six tool set I
bought over five years ago. They charge properly and work fine.

Sure, Li-Ion are better, but they and the tools they power cost more.

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:33:33 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>Lithium Ion is the most popular and generally best option today.

I'm not certain you could call it the most popular. It's the most
recent and that makes it the most wanted. But, that also makes it the
most expensive. If cost is a big concern to someone, then NiCads are
cheaper. "best option" depends on certain conditions.

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 21:55:58 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> As many have commented, Li-ion batteries. When stored charged and not
> under extreme temperatures they can hold a charge for several months. You
> should probably stay with a drill rated greater than 12 volt.
> Better brands that I have owned would be Festool, Panasonic, Makita.

Well, aside from the fact that my Ni-cads still have usable life in
them, the biggest advantage to Li-ion to me is their lesser weight for
more power. I've got to admit, those Ni-cads powered tools of mine get
pretty heavy awful quick.

I'm predicting ten years for equivalent powered batteries to be about
the size of a thimble.

On Fri, 13 Jun 2014 21:13:52 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
>Give up on that one Dave. Hell - our memories are already the second thing
>to go on us - what hope can we possibly have in 10 more years?

No problem. I've email myself and dated it to go out in ten years. :)

On 6/11/2014 4:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> With the Father's Day sales going on it is time for me to buy a new
> cordless drill.

>
> What type of battery
>
> What voltage

Lithium Ion is the most popular and generally best option today.

Voltage depends on intended use. The more volts, the more wight. It
you only ever drive 1" or 2" screws, why heft a heavy 24V drill every
time.

I really like my 15.6V Panasonic. I also have the Bosch quick change
adapter and use it for both screw and drill bits.

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:07:23 -0400, woodchucker <[email protected]>
>Third, The lithiums are priced about the same now... ABOUT, not the same
>but about. If you consider how long the Lithium's last compared to
>Nicads in regular use, it's a win to the Lithiums.. more longevity for
>the same job.

Sorry, can't agree. Two DeWalt 18v NiCads go for $99 right now in Home
Depot. The nearest comparable 20v DeWalt lithiums are $149. To me
anyway, that's not "about".

I do agree that lithiums are superior in almost every way, but they do
cost more, at least for now.