I'm looking to add a drum sander to my workshop but have little
experience of them. The attraction is that they provide a nice,
uniform and even finish over a wide surface area, unlike your standard
belt sander, where a piece can be sanded down a little too much in
spots in no time at all if even pressure isn't maintained. There's
some nice units out there in the &600 - $800 range, but before I
outlay that kind of money I just need to have one thing in particular
clarified. I know that manufacturers specs claim that small pieces can
be passed through without a problem, but I'd really like some feedback
from those who use them regularly. I often work with very small pieces
of wood, down to half an inch in thickness/width and maybe 4 - 5
inches in length - think of the old interlocking pieces from chinese
wooden puzzles as an example and you'll get the general idea. Can
pieces like this pass comfortably through without being kicked up due
to pressure on the lead or tail edges?
Speaking of puzzles by the way, I've always had an interest in trying
to make some of the more elaborate geometric puzzles designed by the
likes of Stewart Coffin and Bill Cutler - those who are familiar with
their wooden marvels know exactly how complex they are. I've tried
making some for myself in the past and have never been satisfied with
the results, mainly because all of the hyper-accurate and complex
cutting that goes into making the gemetic pieces goes out the window
to some extent in the sanding process. I'll create elaborate jigs to
hold the pieces at the correct angle for sanding, but because of the
precision required one can never be 100% accurate in how much wood is
taken off, especially with successive levels of sanding to produce a
quality finish to the wood. End result - puzzles that fit reasonably
well together but are just a little too loose and innaccurately glued
for my liking. Anyone else have any experience with these? Anyone who
doubts just how hard all this may be should go to www.puzzleworld.com
and look at the interlocking puzzles on the sight to gauge the level
of accuracy and craftsmanship required to make some of the more
elaborate puzzles - some of the stuff is just breathtaking, not only
in its complexity but in the quality of the workmanship on view. I
could hardly imagine any other form of woodworking that would require
such a high skill level, though of course that's just my humble view.
CW wrote:
>
> Do a search on him on this group. You may change your mind.
>
SNIP
.
> > If you're interested in, or are already making puzzles this
> > guys site has a wealth of information you'll surely need
> > to have at some point.
> >
> > www.puzzlecraft.com/Projects/HTMAP/00title.htm
> >
> > charlie b
If you'll recall, the result of that "precision claims"
thread showed that his methods, while not consistently
meeting tolerances in the 1/10,000 range, it did
produce some pretty accurate results in a material
that changes dimensions with temp & humidity.
And his jigs are pretty slick and use fairly readily
available parts (skateboard bearings, skateboard wheels
etc..
Don't throw out the baby with the bath water?
charlie b
Fri, Nov 21, 2003, 11:22pm (EST-3) [email protected] (charlie=A0b)
posted the link:
OK, thanks. Went back and finally found out where it was too.
JOAT
Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
missing.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 21 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Fri, Nov 21, 2003, 8:17pm (EST-3) [email protected] (charlie=A0b)
says:
<snip>=A0And his jigs are pretty slick and use fairly readily =A0
available parts (skateboard bearings, skateboard wheels =A0 etc..<snip>
I looked, and I didn't find any jigs like that. Where were they?
JOAT
Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
missing.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 21 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
My Performax 16-32 does this kind of thing fine. Matter of fact last year I
had an occassion to sand some very small pieces about 1/4" thick only about
3" long. Went right through, no problem. I cant remember what Performax says
about the smallest piece but this is my experience with it.
Jim
"tim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm looking to add a drum sander to my workshop but have little
> experience of them. The attraction is that they provide a nice,
> uniform and even finish over a wide surface area, unlike your standard
> belt sander, where a piece can be sanded down a little too much in
> spots in no time at all if even pressure isn't maintained. There's
> some nice units out there in the &600 - $800 range, but before I
> outlay that kind of money I just need to have one thing in particular
> clarified. I know that manufacturers specs claim that small pieces can
> be passed through without a problem, but I'd really like some feedback
> from those who use them regularly. I often work with very small pieces
> of wood, down to half an inch in thickness/width and maybe 4 - 5
> inches in length - think of the old interlocking pieces from chinese
> wooden puzzles as an example and you'll get the general idea. Can
> pieces like this pass comfortably through without being kicked up due
> to pressure on the lead or tail edges?
>
> Speaking of puzzles by the way, I've always had an interest in trying
> to make some of the more elaborate geometric puzzles designed by the
> likes of Stewart Coffin and Bill Cutler - those who are familiar with
> their wooden marvels know exactly how complex they are. I've tried
> making some for myself in the past and have never been satisfied with
> the results, mainly because all of the hyper-accurate and complex
> cutting that goes into making the gemetic pieces goes out the window
> to some extent in the sanding process. I'll create elaborate jigs to
> hold the pieces at the correct angle for sanding, but because of the
> precision required one can never be 100% accurate in how much wood is
> taken off, especially with successive levels of sanding to produce a
> quality finish to the wood. End result - puzzles that fit reasonably
> well together but are just a little too loose and innaccurately glued
> for my liking. Anyone else have any experience with these? Anyone who
> doubts just how hard all this may be should go to www.puzzleworld.com
> and look at the interlocking puzzles on the sight to gauge the level
> of accuracy and craftsmanship required to make some of the more
> elaborate puzzles - some of the stuff is just breathtaking, not only
> in its complexity but in the quality of the workmanship on view. I
> could hardly imagine any other form of woodworking that would require
> such a high skill level, though of course that's just my humble view.
You can always make the pieces long, sand them, then cut them... Tom>Subject:
Re: drum sanders
>From: "James D Kountz" [email protected]
>Date: 11/11/2003 8:36 PM US Mountain Standard Time
>Message-id: <[email protected]>
>
>My Performax 16-32 does this kind of thing fine. Matter of fact last year I
>had an occassion to sand some very small pieces about 1/4" thick only about
>3" long. Went right through, no problem. I cant remember what Performax says
>about the smallest piece but this is my experience with it.
>
>Jim
>
>
>"tim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I'm looking to add a drum sander to my workshop but have little
>> experience of them. The attraction is that they provide a nice,
>> uniform and even finish over a wide surface area, unlike your standard
>> belt sander, where a piece can be sanded down a little too much in
>> spots in no time at all if even pressure isn't maintained. There's
>> some nice units out there in the &600 - $800 range, but before I
>> outlay that kind of money I just need to have one thing in particular
>> clarified. I know that manufacturers specs claim that small pieces can
>> be passed through without a problem, but I'd really like some feedback
>> from those who use them regularly. I often work with very small pieces
>> of wood, down to half an inch in thickness/width and maybe 4 - 5
>> inches in length - think of the old interlocking pieces from chinese
>> wooden puzzles as an example and you'll get the general idea. Can
>> pieces like this pass comfortably through without being kicked up due
>> to pressure on the lead or tail edges?
>>
>> Speaking of puzzles by the way, I've always had an interest in trying
>> to make some of the more elaborate geometric puzzles designed by the
>> likes of Stewart Coffin and Bill Cutler - those who are familiar with
>> their wooden marvels know exactly how complex they are. I've tried
>> making some for myself in the past and have never been satisfied with
>> the results, mainly because all of the hyper-accurate and complex
>> cutting that goes into making the gemetic pieces goes out the window
>> to some extent in the sanding process. I'll create elaborate jigs to
>> hold the pieces at the correct angle for sanding, but because of the
>> precision required one can never be 100% accurate in how much wood is
>> taken off, especially with successive levels of sanding to produce a
>> quality finish to the wood. End result - puzzles that fit reasonably
>> well together but are just a little too loose and innaccurately glued
>> for my liking. Anyone else have any experience with these? Anyone who
>> doubts just how hard all this may be should go to www.puzzleworld.com
>> and look at the interlocking puzzles on the sight to gauge the level
>> of accuracy and craftsmanship required to make some of the more
>> elaborate puzzles - some of the stuff is just breathtaking, not only
>> in its complexity but in the quality of the workmanship on view. I
>> could hardly imagine any other form of woodworking that would require
>> such a high skill level, though of course that's just my humble view.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Someday, it'll all be over....
Build a carrier unit to hold your small pieces as they pass through any drum
sander you buy. A piece of ply, four sides the same height as your work
piece, a few dabs of glue. Voila!
Bob
"tim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm looking to add a drum sander to my workshop but have little
> experience of them. The attraction is that they provide a nice,
> uniform and even finish over a wide surface area, unlike your standard
> belt sander, where a piece can be sanded down a little too much in
> spots in no time at all if even pressure isn't maintained. There's
> some nice units out there in the &600 - $800 range, but before I
> outlay that kind of money I just need to have one thing in particular
> clarified. I know that manufacturers specs claim that small pieces can
> be passed through without a problem, but I'd really like some feedback
> from those who use them regularly. I often work with very small pieces
> of wood, down to half an inch in thickness/width and maybe 4 - 5
> inches in length - think of the old interlocking pieces from chinese
> wooden puzzles as an example and you'll get the general idea. Can
> pieces like this pass comfortably through without being kicked up due
> to pressure on the lead or tail edges?
>
> Speaking of puzzles by the way, I've always had an interest in trying
> to make some of the more elaborate geometric puzzles designed by the
> likes of Stewart Coffin and Bill Cutler - those who are familiar with
> their wooden marvels know exactly how complex they are. I've tried
> making some for myself in the past and have never been satisfied with
> the results, mainly because all of the hyper-accurate and complex
> cutting that goes into making the gemetic pieces goes out the window
> to some extent in the sanding process. I'll create elaborate jigs to
> hold the pieces at the correct angle for sanding, but because of the
> precision required one can never be 100% accurate in how much wood is
> taken off, especially with successive levels of sanding to produce a
> quality finish to the wood. End result - puzzles that fit reasonably
> well together but are just a little too loose and innaccurately glued
> for my liking. Anyone else have any experience with these? Anyone who
> doubts just how hard all this may be should go to www.puzzleworld.com
> and look at the interlocking puzzles on the sight to gauge the level
> of accuracy and craftsmanship required to make some of the more
> elaborate puzzles - some of the stuff is just breathtaking, not only
> in its complexity but in the quality of the workmanship on view. I
> could hardly imagine any other form of woodworking that would require
> such a high skill level, though of course that's just my humble view.
Do a search on him on this group. You may change your mind.
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you're interested in, or are already making puzzles this
> guys site has a wealth of information you'll surely need
> to have at some point.
>
> www.puzzlecraft.com/Projects/HTMAP/00title.htm
>
> charlie b
"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My Performax 16-32 does this kind of thing fine. Matter of fact last year
I
> had an occassion to sand some very small pieces about 1/4" thick only
about
> 3" long. Went right through, no problem. I cant remember what Performax
says
> about the smallest piece but this is my experience with it.
I have the Ryobi 16-32 and it works just fine. It uses the same paper as
the performax. Saw a used one in the paper a coupla weeks ago for $400.
SH