I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year old.
I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that I do,
I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table and the
right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this and can't
find anything on the web.
Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
surface?
I ended up removing the original face on the left side of my fence and
replacing it with a taller piece of beech for the purpose of attaching
anti-kickback rollers (a la the ones David Marks uses on Wood Works).
Anyway, if you want to replace your fence face you'll need to cut
through the laminate in nine different places to remove the hex-head
sheet metal screws that are holding it on. Biesemeyer laminates the
1/2" ply after it's attached to the tube. I used a rare-earth magnet
to find the screw heads by sliding it along and letting it self-center
as much as possible. I then drew around it with a pencil and used a
Dremel plunge router to pierce the laminate at the center of that
circle. That allowed me to find the head of the screw and then
carefully remove only enough laminate to get a hex driver on the screw.
Now that I have my new face attached I have a flatter face than what
was originally installed (not that it was bad) and I can shim it from
above or below to square to the table (which wasn't necessary. The 9
screw heads remain exposed on my fence but are not a problem. And I
did have to move the little plastic hairline guide on the right side of
the T so that I could zero-out my new fence but that just required
drilling and tapping a couple of new holes.
Sorry if that's too much info... :)
Kevin
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Y1aTe.17800$sw6.4183@fed1read05...
> I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year
old.
> I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that I
do,
> I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table and
the
> right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this and can't
> find anything on the web.
>
> Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
> surface?
>
>
My Bies is like that too, damned annoying for a fence of that price.
You can level one side, but not both, by adjusting the pads on the bottom of
the tee. Requires shims IIRC. Just shoot for square on the side you use
most often, the left.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
Do you have this fence on a contractor saw or a cabinet saw? Are you
talking about the fence edge being parallel to the blade and/or miter
gauge tracks? Have you tried using an allen wrench to adjust the
perpendicular angle on the T-Square head?
Sometimes in a retrofit on a cabinet saw that has been moved/restored
the tabletop's relationship to the blade might be off a skoosh.
Mounting the T-Square system to the table top is not going to make
this better. First step I would think... is to make sure your blade
is dead nuts on to the table top... that is, make sure there's
something like .002 variable (or less) between the blade and the miter
gauge tracks. If the bade is not dead nuts with the table, you'll
never be correctly aligned.
Biesemeyer fences are usually dead-on out of the box. That is, the
T-Square head and fence are exactly 90° perpendicular.
On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 22:45:50 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year old.
>I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that I do,
>I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table and the
>right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this and can't
>find anything on the web.
>
>Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
>surface?
>
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:_g2Ue.19947$sw6.15469@fed1read05...
>
> "Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:Y1aTe.17800$sw6.4183@fed1read05...
>>I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year
>>old. I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that
>>I do, I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table
>>and the right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this
>>and can't find anything on the web.
>>
>> Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
>> surface?
>>
>
> All,
>
> FYI, I contacted Biesemeyer today about this problem. They confirmed no
> way to make this adjustment and offered me a replacement. Because I'm
> local to their headquarters here in AZ, I'm going to make the exchange
> tomorrow. The rep said they would build one up for me today (making sure
> of the accuracy) and have it ready for pickup by tomorrow. I'll let you
> know if the new one's build quality is any better...
>
> -m
>
I got the replacement fence today. It's perfect. I checked the entire
length of the fence (both sides) and it's _exactly_ 90 deg to the table.
They did a very nice job and their customer service was excellent. They
took my old fence in exchange and it didn't cost me a dime -- other than the
drive to the facility.
If any of yours is in need of help, perhaps you could benefit from a call to
Bies?
-m
Short of shimming the fence facing to 90 deg, no.
Mike Pio wrote:
> I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year old.
> I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that I do,
> I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table and the
> right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this and can't
> find anything on the web.
>
> Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
> surface?
>
>
--
Joseph Connors
The New Golden Rule:
Those with the gold, make the rules!
Kevin,
I remember seeing some instructions on Owen Lowe's site
(http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/index.html) and all you do is remove
the rubber edging from the fence, then I believe he used a hair dryer to
heat the laminate and then a putty knife to peel away the laminate to expose
those screws. I don't know if he still has the info posted.
Bob S.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I ended up removing the original face on the left side of my fence and
> replacing it with a taller piece of beech for the purpose of attaching
> anti-kickback rollers (a la the ones David Marks uses on Wood Works).
> Anyway, if you want to replace your fence face you'll need to cut
> through the laminate in nine different places to remove the hex-head
> sheet metal screws that are holding it on. Biesemeyer laminates the
> 1/2" ply after it's attached to the tube. I used a rare-earth magnet
> to find the screw heads by sliding it along and letting it self-center
> as much as possible. I then drew around it with a pencil and used a
> Dremel plunge router to pierce the laminate at the center of that
> circle. That allowed me to find the head of the screw and then
> carefully remove only enough laminate to get a hex driver on the screw.
>
> Now that I have my new face attached I have a flatter face than what
> was originally installed (not that it was bad) and I can shim it from
> above or below to square to the table (which wasn't necessary. The 9
> screw heads remain exposed on my fence but are not a problem. And I
> did have to move the little plastic hairline guide on the right side of
> the T so that I could zero-out my new fence but that just required
> drilling and tapping a couple of new holes.
>
> Sorry if that's too much info... :)
>
> Kevin
>
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Biesemeyer fences are usually dead-on out of the box. That is, the
> T-Square head and fence are exactly 90° perpendicular.
>
>
> On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 22:45:50 -0700, "Mike Pio" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>
Hmm...I must have the "unusual" Bies--it is neither perfectly straight,
nor is is perpendicular to the table. And there isn't enough movement
in the rail's attachment bolt holes to make up the difference so that
the fence face comes into perpendicularity. I've learned to ignore the
dished leading portion of the left face, and I also ignore then lack of
perfection in the perpendicularity. I also ignore the lack of
perfection in the flatness of the table. When it was new I was
concerned about all that stuff, but now I see the world still spins and
I can cut wood as accurately as I need, and I'm pretty damn fussy.
Dave
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Y1aTe.17800$sw6.4183@fed1read05...
>I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year old.
>I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that I do,
>I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table and the
>right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this and can't
>find anything on the web.
>
> Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
> surface?
>
All,
FYI, I contacted Biesemeyer today about this problem. They confirmed no way
to make this adjustment and offered me a replacement. Because I'm local to
their headquarters here in AZ, I'm going to make the exchange tomorrow. The
rep said they would build one up for me today (making sure of the accuracy)
and have it ready for pickup by tomorrow. I'll let you know if the new
one's build quality is any better...
-m
The instructions state that there no adjustment for that. You will need
to either:
(a)change the fence boards (might not fix the problem)
(b) make a shimmed out aux fence.
Mike Pio wrote:
> I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year old.
> I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that I do,
> I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table and the
> right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this and can't
> find anything on the web.
>
> Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
> surface?
>
>
Mike Pio <[email protected]> wrote:
The last FWW had another rehash of tablesaw tune-ups. And a video:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt117.asp
> I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year old.
> I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that I do,
> I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table and the
> right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this and can't
> find anything on the web.
>
> Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
> surface?
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
"CC" <lamp dot [email protected]> wrote:
> Owen,
> Did you remove the substrate after taking the laminate off when you wanted
> to use UHMW faces? I 'm inquiring about the construction of the fence under
> the laminate on them. I would like to make a sacrificial fence and attach it
> to the existing one, either with blind nuts or by drilling into the existing
> structure and using recessed screws without damaging the existing fence.
> Your thoughts and ideas on this would be appreciated.
I did take off the ply substrate before mounting the UHMW but I suppose
you could leave it on if you can accommodate the extra thickness in the
fence indicator adjustment or you don't care about the indicator. The
substrate is a birch plywood type material with about 9 countersunk
hex-head screws holding it onto the rectangular metal fence.
Be aware that if you leave the original plywood on the fence the surface
will still be very sticky from the cement.
I put the pics and description of what I did to put the UHMW on the
fence back up onto my webspace:
<http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/misc/biesfence/biesfence.html>
If you have any further questions please don't hesitate to ask.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
In article <[email protected]>,
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I remember seeing some instructions on Owen Lowe's site
> (http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/index.html) and all you do is remove
> the rubber edging from the fence, then I believe he used a hair dryer to
> heat the laminate and then a putty knife to peel away the laminate to expose
> those screws. I don't know if he still has the info posted.
Yeah, well, here's the thing... apparently it's not there anymore. I
really gotta pull all that down and start over. Criminey... last updated
'04...
Anyway, yes Bob, that's how I did it. Warmed the laminate (but may have
used a heat gun very gently) and peeled it off. My purpose was to try
UHMW faces on the fence but I eventually went back to the laminate. The
UHMW was wavy down the length of the rail.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
Mike Pio wrote:
> I have the Biesemeyer commercial fence system. It's only about a year old.
> I guess I never had the right setup tools when I got it, but now that I do,
> I notice that the left side of the fence is not 90 deg to the table and the
> right side is also off, but closer. I see no way to adjust this and can't
> find anything on the web.
>
> Is there some way to make the fence exactly perpendicular to the table
> surface?
>
>
Make and shim an auxillary fence. My Bies isn't perpendicular to the
table surface either. I no longer worry about it... )
Dave
Owen,
Did you remove the substrate after taking the laminate off when you wanted
to use UHMW faces? I 'm inquiring about the construction of the fence under
the laminate on them. I would like to make a sacrificial fence and attach it
to the existing one, either with blind nuts or by drilling into the existing
structure and using recessed screws without damaging the existing fence.
Your thoughts and ideas on this would be appreciated.
Thanks
CC
"Fly-by-Night CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "BobS" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I remember seeing some instructions on Owen Lowe's site
>> (http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe/index.html) and all you do is
>> remove
>> the rubber edging from the fence, then I believe he used a hair dryer to
>> heat the laminate and then a putty knife to peel away the laminate to
>> expose
>> those screws. I don't know if he still has the info posted.
>
> Yeah, well, here's the thing... apparently it's not there anymore. I
> really gotta pull all that down and start over. Criminey... last updated
> '04...
>
> Anyway, yes Bob, that's how I did it. Warmed the laminate (but may have
> used a heat gun very gently) and peeled it off. My purpose was to try
> UHMW faces on the fence but I eventually went back to the laminate. The
> UHMW was wavy down the length of the rail.
> --
> Owen Lowe
> The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
> __________
>
> "I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
> Corporate States of America and to the
> Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
> under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
> and justice for oil."
> - Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05