I've got a couple of machines that I'm restoring, and I'd like to
fully repaint them. When I went to the local paint store the guy
started hemming and hawing about new regulations when I asked about
thinning it for my gun. I guess I'm just looking for general
information about refinishing old machines.
My plan as of now is to sandblast them, prime them and paint them.
Any suggestions on what type of paint and primer? I like the look of
the Original Saw Co. machines - hammered black I think it is. Any way
to duplicate this with an hvlp system?
I'm off to owwm.com and google. Thanks.
K{
RE: Subject
Sand or glass bead blast back to bare metal, then apply a couple of coats of
epoxy high build primer uused by boat builders.
Allow to cure out 2-3 days then shoot with some color of choice Hammerite
paint in an aerosol can.
The epoxy primer hardens like a bull"s tool at mounting time providing a
great base coat and can be applied with a disposable chip brush.
The Hammerite is also a rust preventitive and is available in various
hammertone colors.
Have fun.
Lew
.
Lew
>
> I haven't used it in my sprayer, but I have used the rattle cans. It
> works great, sticks to everything and and dries hard. The coloration
> looks like the old tools. I am thinking of refinishing my Jet mini
> lathe with this stuff in the hammered black/silver. It would look
> great.
>
> Robert
ACCCKKK...GAAAKKKK....UUUUUGGGGG... Sacrilege!!!
Spraying a Jet Tool black/silver will surely bring down
the wrath of the woodworking gods.
On Feb 4, 8:36 pm, digitect <[email protected]> wrote:
> > ACCCKKK...GAAAKKKK....UUUUUGGGGG... Sacrilege!!! Spraying a Jet Tool
> > black/silver will surely bring down the wrath of the woodworking gods.
>
> Why is this exactly? I have a 90's Jet bandsaw that is black and silver
> from the factory.
Beats me. My only guess is that some are proud enough of their tools
they want to keep them in their original colors. I guess it is an
identity thing, but don't know.
I saw a large lathe (I believe it was a Stubby) that was painted in
that black configuration and it was gorgeous. Jet is such a far cry
from Stubby that it cannot be seen with the naked eye, but coloring my
lathe may be as close as I get to a $7000 lathe.
Besides, I actually saw this Hammerite on a small horizontal metal
mill/lathe and it looked really sharp.
My poor old Jet lathe has so much discoloration from tree bark, wood
dust, drips/drops of finishes, etc. that it looks like I ran it around
behind truck. Green walnut I got from a friend turned that nice off
white to a brownish purple color in some places. Works great and is
really clean, just ugly. I brush it down an blow it out after every
use, but after ten years on station brushing and blowing the dirt/dust
just doesn't get it anymore.
Robert
On Feb 3, 6:28 pm, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 3 Feb 2008 14:05:47 -0800 (PST), Jay Pique
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I'm off to owwm.com
>
> That's what I was going to suggest! <G>
I would certainly go there first.
For a floor machine/bench, I would look at the industrial grade alkyd
enamels, especially the ones from Coronado Paints. I use them on
metal doors, metal handrails, etc., and they are easy to spray and
dry really hard. They are abrasion resistant, and stand up to
cleaning.
You might want to check this product out too:
http://tinyurl.com/yp2pqs
I haven't used it in my sprayer, but I have used the rattle cans. It
works great, sticks to everything and and dries hard. The coloration
looks like the old tools. I am thinking of refinishing my Jet mini
lathe with this stuff in the hammered black/silver. It would look
great.
Robert
I don't know if you will get any traditional colors, but I have had great
success with Seymour paints.
http://www.seymourpaint.com/
I use the MRO industrial lines to paint and repair gym equipment and many
quick and dirty metal projects. It is the best rattle can stuff I have
found. I got turned onto to it by an industrial engineer who specialized in
prolonging the life of old iron.
It is more expensive than the hardware store rattle can paints, but these
can contain far more paint solids and are actually cheaper in terms of
coverage.
This is their industrial line.
http://www.seymourpaint.com/index.cfm/ind
This is the stuff recommended to me and that I use.
http://www.seymourpaint.com/index.cfm/products/?id=94
I used top use rustoleum, but that stuff takes forever to dry. I often had
to paint over eight days to get one coat of primer and paint on the metal
item. I was complaining about this in a group that dealt with gym equipment
when this rcommendation came to me.
The name of this paint is MRO Bulk High Solids Industrial Coating.
On Feb 4, 10:30 am, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
wrote:
> I don't know if you will get any traditional colors, but I have had great
> success with Seymour paints.
>
> http://www.seymourpaint.com/
> I used top use rustoleum, but that stuff takes forever to dry. I often had
> to paint over eight days to get one coat of primer and paint on the metal
> item.
That's exactly why I switched to Hammerite. You don't really need to
prime, and it dries hard in a couple of days from start to finish.
> The name of this paint is MRO Bulk High Solids Industrial Coating.
Thanks for the link. I am always ready to pick up on something new in
finishing, but bad news. I called them directly and they don't have a
distributor anywhere in our area. They suggested I order online, but
that means I had to buy 18 cans of product, the pay the shipping on
that as well.
I just wanted to try a can on a mailbox to see how well it held up.
No dice. 24 cans or nothing.
Robert
<[email protected]> wrote
> On Feb 4, 10:30 am, "Lee Michaels" wrote:
>> I used to use rustoleum, but that stuff takes forever to dry. I often
>> had
>> to paint over eight days to get one coat of primer and paint on the metal
>> item.
>
> That's exactly why I switched to Hammerite. You don't really need to
> prime, and it dries hard in a couple of days from start to finish.
>
In the previous discussion I had with the industrial (and chemical)
engineers, they said that rustoleum actually put things into the paint to
make it take days to dry. That there was no real reason to do this except
for marketing reasons. Which seemed very strange to me.
Is having the slowest drying paint on the market good from a marketing point
of view? I guess it is like Wendy's touting how greasy (juicy) their
hamburgers are.
On Feb 5, 6:13 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> bookman wrote:
>
> > Spraying a Jet Tool black/silver will surely bring down
> > the wrath of the woodworking gods.
>
> Powermatic paints some Jet tools gold. <G>
LMAO!!
How true is that?
Nice shot.
Robert
On Feb 4, 5:07 pm, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
wrote:
>they said that rustoleum actually put things into the paint to
> make it take days to dry. That there was no real reason to do this except
> for marketing reasons. Which seemed very strange to me.
Yikes. I can't imagine what that would be. In the old days, slower
curing resins often meant harder end products or finishes, but not so
much anymore.
> Is having the slowest drying paint on the market good from a marketing point
> of view? I guess it is like Wendy's touting how greasy (juicy) their
> hamburgers are.
LMAO. I couldn't agree more.
Robert
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Feb 4, 10:30 am, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> I don't know if you will get any traditional colors, but I have had great
>> success with Seymour paints.
>>
>> http://www.seymourpaint.com/
>
>> I used top use rustoleum, but that stuff takes forever to dry. I often
>> had
>> to paint over eight days to get one coat of primer and paint on the metal
>> item.
>
> That's exactly why I switched to Hammerite. You don't really need to
> prime, and it dries hard in a couple of days from start to finish.
>
>> The name of this paint is MRO Bulk High Solids Industrial Coating.
>
> Thanks for the link. I am always ready to pick up on something new in
> finishing, but bad news. I called them directly and they don't have a
> distributor anywhere in our area. They suggested I order online, but
> that means I had to buy 18 cans of product, the pay the shipping on
> that as well.
>
> I just wanted to try a can on a mailbox to see how well it held up.
> No dice. 24 cans or nothing.
>
I haven't bought any in years but used to go in on a batch order with a
friend or two. This worked out because we were using it in enough volume to
buy it in case quantities. I did not know that there was such a large
minimum order. I don't think they used to do it this way. The only other
folks I knew who used it worked for large companies.
Oh well...
On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 14:55:48 -0800, bookman wrote:
>
> ACCCKKK...GAAAKKKK....UUUUUGGGGG... Sacrilege!!! Spraying a Jet Tool
> black/silver will surely bring down the wrath of the woodworking gods.
Why is this exactly? I have a 90's Jet bandsaw that is black and silver
from the factory.
--
Steve Hall [ digitect dancingpaper com ]
On Sun, 3 Feb 2008 14:05:47 -0800 (PST), Jay Pique
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I'm off to owwm.com
That's what I was going to suggest! <G>