Hey Group,
I just upgraded my DC to a 1&1/2 HP, 1200 CFM unit and I want to park
it somewhere (and add ductwork) instead of moving it around like I did
with my older Delta 3/4 HP two satge machine. My ideal set up would
have it in my newly built addition's basement but this would require
either drilling three 4&1/2 holes in the 10 inch floor joists (the
outer is a double) or punch out the same size hole at waist level in
the 12 inch concrete block wall (did a similar thing years ago for
water lines and electrical to my duck pens).
Seriously, the block wall looks like it will be easier to manipulate
than drilling the joists. With the joists I would also need to
displace existing electrical lines running along the outer one.
Anyway, if anyone wants to offer advice, peptalk, or give me a hard
time about this please feel free.
Thanks in advance,
Marc
marc rosen wrote:
> Hey Group,
> I just upgraded my DC to a 1&1/2 HP, 1200 CFM unit and I want to park
> it somewhere (and add ductwork) instead of moving it around like I did
> with my older Delta 3/4 HP two satge machine. My ideal set up would
> have it in my newly built addition's basement but this would require
> either drilling three 4&1/2 holes in the 10 inch floor joists (the
> outer is a double) or punch out the same size hole at waist level in
> the 12 inch concrete block wall (did a similar thing years ago for
> water lines and electrical to my duck pens).
Marc,
I have a 1 1/2 HP Penn State dust collector. It is a fine piece of
machinery but it just isn't strong enough to work as a central system.
DAMHIKT
Whatever you do, don't drill holes in the joists.
Dick Durbin
Paul D wrote:
> First two thoughts .... neither of them what you want to hear
>
> 1. 4.5" hole in 10" joist .... not possible .... you would reduce the joist
> strength to approx 1/8 the load carrying capacity
>
> 2. 1200cfm .... no where near enough flow over any reasonable distance.
> Those 'small' units are made mobile for a reason. Take a drive to the
> nearest joinery shop or mill and have a look at the size of their units ....
> probably nearly as big as your workshop.
>
The OP isn't putting in a mill. I have only a 1 hp ducted to my table
saw, stationary sander and router table with gates. It has pulled
several truck loads of dust and chips out for me. I would like to
upgrade to a 1 1/2 horse unit, but cannot justify it at this time.
I think through the wall is the way to go. If you use PVC drain pipe,
use duct tape on the joints instead of PVC joint sealer, at least in
some of the joints. You WILL have to take it apart at some time to clean
it.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
A man's got to know his limitations.
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I have had good luck with a 1.5 hp DC on several tools. I have blast
gates at all the tools and switch between tools. However I use 6 inch
PVC. If you use the S&D type (ASTM 2729?) it is lighter wall and lower
cost. The local Lowes stocks it with fittings, local HD doesn't have a
clue. I just assembled and then tied it together at the joints with a
pair of self tapping screws through each fitting into (but not through)
the pipe. The blast gates are a full 6" and made from MDF. The
reduction is made at the output side of the blast gate. I also added
6" flex hose and an air filter from Wynn Environmental. I made a
noticable difference in actual flow. And when the filter needs to be
cleaned you notice the drop in flow.
Gerald Ross wrote:
> Paul D wrote:
> > First two thoughts .... neither of them what you want to hear
> >
> > 1. 4.5" hole in 10" joist .... not possible .... you would reduce the joist
> > strength to approx 1/8 the load carrying capacity
> >
> > 2. 1200cfm .... no where near enough flow over any reasonable distance.
> > Those 'small' units are made mobile for a reason. Take a drive to the
> > nearest joinery shop or mill and have a look at the size of their units ....
> > probably nearly as big as your workshop.
> >
>
> The OP isn't putting in a mill. I have only a 1 hp ducted to my table
> saw, stationary sander and router table with gates. It has pulled
> several truck loads of dust and chips out for me. I would like to
> upgrade to a 1 1/2 horse unit, but cannot justify it at this time.
>
> I think through the wall is the way to go. If you use PVC drain pipe,
> use duct tape on the joints instead of PVC joint sealer, at least in
> some of the joints. You WILL have to take it apart at some time to clean
> it.
>
> --
> Gerald Ross
> Cochran, GA
>
> A man's got to know his limitations.
>
>
>
>
>
> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
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> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> said:
>That's why I was asking. I got 4" in mine, but I had been reading about the
>pressure/velocity thing and was really just wondering what would happen if I
>went to a 2 or 3 in piped in system. I guess I was just wondering out loud.
Knowing nothing about the layout, duct runs, blower and motor size,
etc., I can speak only in generalities and guesswork. But, with that
in mind, I'm fairly sure that you'd be very disappointed with 2-3 in
ducting.
I'll venture a guess that without a massive change in the blower unit,
the pressure losses in any reasonable length of duct and fittings of
that size would be such that you'd wind up with much less volume flow
than in the 4" duct and possibly even lower velocity in the ducts. If
less air is flowing per unit time, depending on the specific sizes and
rates, it may not move as fast, even in a smaller duct.
The key item is the pressure rise across the blower. That pressure
difference is all that's available to move air through the ducts. As
more of that pressure is used to overcome the higher flow resistance
of the smaller pipe, less is available to actually move air through
the pipe.
The amount of air moved (cubic feet per minute) will vary with the
usable pressure. More useable pressure, more air moved, and
vice-versa.
For purposes of illustration, assume the blower pressure rise is a
constant value. The "useable" pressure is that blower pressure less
the pressure loss in the ducts and fittings.
Pressure loss in the ducts and fittings increases very quickly as the
flow velocity increases. Double the flow velocity and the pressure
loss much more than doubles. Gently blowing through a soda straw
requires little effort. But try to blow out the candles on a birthday
cake through that straw and you may need to go get a hernia repaired.
A properly designed blower driven by a huge motor might generate
enough pressure differential to move enough air at a high enough speed
through a small duct but it will be unbearably noisy and make the
electric meter spin at a fantastic rate.
I keep thinking about a small transonic wind tunnel we used in school.
The test section was only a few square inches in cross section. We
couldn't run it with a motor/blower. Instead we used an air compressor
to pressurize a bank of air tanks and would exhaust those tanks
through the test section. Each run only lasted a few seconds. It
wasn't called a "blowdown" tunnel for no reason.
Of course, that wind tunnel moved air at much higher speeds than a
dust collector system, but the principle is the same. It takes a LOT
of power to move fluids through a small pipe at high speeds.
I strongly recommend spending some time, if you haven't already, at
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/DC4Dummies.cfm#Basic%20Information
marc rosen wrote:
> Hey Group,
> I just upgraded my DC to a 1&1/2 HP, 1200 CFM unit and I want to park
> it somewhere (and add ductwork) instead of moving it around like I did
> with my older Delta 3/4 HP two satge machine.
Before drilling any holes, you may want to run the numbers to make sure
that the machine has enough power to give you the desired airflow at the
tool.
You may find Bill Pentz's static pressure calculator useful. See the
"static calculator" link at:
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/StaticCalcFAQs.cfm
Chris
"marc rosen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey Group,
> I just upgraded my DC to a 1&1/2 HP, 1200 CFM unit and I want to park
> it somewhere (and add ductwork) instead of moving it around like I did
> with my older Delta 3/4 HP two satge machine. My ideal set up would
> have it in my newly built addition's basement but this would require
> either drilling three 4&1/2 holes in the 10 inch floor joists (the
> outer is a double) or punch out the same size hole at waist level in
> the 12 inch concrete block wall (did a similar thing years ago for
> water lines and electrical to my duck pens).
> Seriously, the block wall looks like it will be easier to manipulate
> than drilling the joists. With the joists I would also need to
> displace existing electrical lines running along the outer one.
> Anyway, if anyone wants to offer advice, peptalk, or give me a hard
> time about this please feel free.
> Thanks in advance,
> Marc
>
I would not recommend drilling 4.5" holes in the joists for structural
integrity reasons... I've seen them break just from plumbing holes.
First two thoughts .... neither of them what you want to hear
1. 4.5" hole in 10" joist .... not possible .... you would reduce the joist
strength to approx 1/8 the load carrying capacity
2. 1200cfm .... no where near enough flow over any reasonable distance.
Those 'small' units are made mobile for a reason. Take a drive to the
nearest joinery shop or mill and have a look at the size of their units ....
probably nearly as big as your workshop.
"marc rosen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey Group,
> I just upgraded my DC to a 1&1/2 HP, 1200 CFM unit and I want to park
> it somewhere (and add ductwork) instead of moving it around like I did
> with my older Delta 3/4 HP two satge machine. My ideal set up would
> have it in my newly built addition's basement but this would require
> either drilling three 4&1/2 holes in the 10 inch floor joists (the
> outer is a double) or punch out the same size hole at waist level in
> the 12 inch concrete block wall (did a similar thing years ago for
> water lines and electrical to my duck pens).
> Seriously, the block wall looks like it will be easier to manipulate
> than drilling the joists. With the joists I would also need to
> displace existing electrical lines running along the outer one.
> Anyway, if anyone wants to offer advice, peptalk, or give me a hard
> time about this please feel free.
> Thanks in advance,
> Marc
>
"Tom Veatch" <.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> said:
>
>>What would happen if it would be connected to 2 or 3 inch pipe? Wouldn't
>>that make the suction better?
>
> In general with regard to duct size, "bigger is better" for reducing
> pressure drop/losses in the duct. "Smaller is better" for increasing
> flow velocity in the duct.
>
> You need to keep the pressure drop as low as possible (big ducts) and
> the flow velocity high enough to keep the sawdust entrained in the
> flow (small ducts). The two competing requirements must be properly
> balanced for a well designed, efficient system.
That's why I was asking. I got 4" in mine, but I had been reading about the
pressure/velocity thing and was really just wondering what would happen if I
went to a 2 or 3 in piped in system. I guess I was just wondering out loud.
What would happen if it would be connected to 2 or 3 inch pipe? Wouldn't
that make the suction better?
"Howard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have had good luck with a 1.5 hp DC on several tools. I have blast
> gates at all the tools and switch between tools. However I use 6 inch
> PVC. If you use the S&D type (ASTM 2729?) it is lighter wall and lower
> cost. The local Lowes stocks it with fittings, local HD doesn't have a
> clue. I just assembled and then tied it together at the joints with a
> pair of self tapping screws through each fitting into (but not through)
> the pipe. The blast gates are a full 6" and made from MDF. The
> reduction is made at the output side of the blast gate. I also added
> 6" flex hose and an air filter from Wynn Environmental. I made a
> noticable difference in actual flow. And when the filter needs to be
> cleaned you notice the drop in flow.
>
>
> Gerald Ross wrote:
>> Paul D wrote:
>> > First two thoughts .... neither of them what you want to hear
>> >
>> > 1. 4.5" hole in 10" joist .... not possible .... you would reduce the
>> > joist
>> > strength to approx 1/8 the load carrying capacity
>> >
>> > 2. 1200cfm .... no where near enough flow over any reasonable distance.
>> > Those 'small' units are made mobile for a reason. Take a drive to the
>> > nearest joinery shop or mill and have a look at the size of their units
>> > ....
>> > probably nearly as big as your workshop.
>> >
>>
>> The OP isn't putting in a mill. I have only a 1 hp ducted to my table
>> saw, stationary sander and router table with gates. It has pulled
>> several truck loads of dust and chips out for me. I would like to
>> upgrade to a 1 1/2 horse unit, but cannot justify it at this time.
>>
>> I think through the wall is the way to go. If you use PVC drain pipe,
>> use duct tape on the joints instead of PVC joint sealer, at least in
>> some of the joints. You WILL have to take it apart at some time to clean
>> it.
>>
>> --
>> Gerald Ross
>> Cochran, GA
>>
>> A man's got to know his limitations.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
>> News==----
>> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
>> Newsgroups
>> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
>> =----
>
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> What would happen if it would be connected to 2 or 3 inch pipe?
> Wouldn't that make the suction better?
>
It would speed up the flow, to some limited degree, but the area cross
section of the pipe would decrease radically. It 'works' for some
applications, but not for moving a lot of air/dust/chips very far.
I have a 2.5" tube & wand that I attach to my 4" inlet on the DC system.
It gets used mostly to shop vac the floor and driveway, and does it more
quietly than my screaming shop vac would. It also connects pretty well to
the router table. I end up shaking the chunks and chips out of the tubing
before I put it away.
Play with the tubes and systems you have. PVC and duct tape are cheap.
See if it does what you want it to do. The theoriticians have, however,
run _their_ numbers.
For the OP: I run three 4" drops from a cyclone garbage can, which is
plumbed back 50' to a Delta 1200 cfm collector with a 6' tall, 1 micron
aftermarket bag. Works well for me.
I still need a broom for the handplane shavings.
Patriarch
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> said:
>What would happen if it would be connected to 2 or 3 inch pipe? Wouldn't
>that make the suction better?
In general with regard to duct size, "bigger is better" for reducing
pressure drop/losses in the duct. "Smaller is better" for increasing
flow velocity in the duct.
You need to keep the pressure drop as low as possible (big ducts) and
the flow velocity high enough to keep the sawdust entrained in the
flow (small ducts). The two competing requirements must be properly
balanced for a well designed, efficient system.
Depends on how "flexible" you can be with your
shop layout.
Before I bought my current 3HP 50-762 which is
capable of moving a LOT of air,
I got by with a 50-850 1.5hp unit.
I changed my layout around my DC.
I placed my DC on the end of the shop and made one
run 30' long with blast gates along the way. I attached
the PVC pipe to the wall with plastic straps.
I used 4" S&D and it seemed to do just fine when running
one machine at a time. It's a bit of a pain to shut
things off and on, but it still works VERY well.
I only had 3 major machines hooked up to this run.
(a) table saw
(b) planer
(c) jointer
I used dedicated shop vacs for the bandsaw and the router
table and the chop saw. I have since replace the vacs with
my older 1.5hp unit and that works exactly as before with
the bandsaw,router and drill press.
The chop saw runs off a big ass shop vac.
This setup requires change and that's why those mobile
bases finally come in handy.
Once you get all this in place, woodworking becomes fun
again.
marc rosen wrote:
> Hey Group,
> I just upgraded my DC to a 1&1/2 HP, 1200 CFM unit and I want to park
> it somewhere (and add ductwork) instead of moving it around like I did
> with my older Delta 3/4 HP two satge machine. My ideal set up would
> have it in my newly built addition's basement but this would require
> either drilling three 4&1/2 holes in the 10 inch floor joists (the
> outer is a double) or punch out the same size hole at waist level in
> the 12 inch concrete block wall (did a similar thing years ago for
> water lines and electrical to my duck pens).
> Seriously, the block wall looks like it will be easier to manipulate
> than drilling the joists. With the joists I would also need to
> displace existing electrical lines running along the outer one.
> Anyway, if anyone wants to offer advice, peptalk, or give me a hard
> time about this please feel free.
> Thanks in advance,
> Marc
>