Steve Barker <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
>
> LOL! I've still got a third of that pile left.
> Sure gives the planer a workout, though. I don't know what them blue
> shirt boys saw with, but it's got a pretty loose thickness control.
>
It does get pretty interesting trying to plane boards of varying thickness,
doesn't it? Even moreso if you don't notice how far off the board is
before attempting to put it through. My planer just wasn't designed to go
from taking off 1/32" to 1/4" in 3'.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Steve Barker wrote:
> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO
> tomorrow and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4
> to 8 inch wide red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two
> years ago.
You would suck if you did...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 4/22/2012 10:29 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
> On 4/22/2012 3:40 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>> On 4/20/2012 9:33 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
>>> On 4/20/2012 7:08 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>>> On 4/19/2012 8:11 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>>>> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO
>>>>> tomorrow
>>>>> and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4 to 8 inch
>>>>> wide
>>>>> red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two years ago.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> well, no lumber this year. But i did eyeball a model 55 and several
>>>> model 45
>>>> stanley planes. Fixin' to look them up to see what they're worth.
>>>
>>> What they're worth is really a function of how complete they are and how
>>> many cutters are included. If it's in good condition with all the parts
>>> and accessories and a full array of cutters, it can bring upwards of
>>> $300 on eBay; more if it's in the original box. No-so-complete models
>>> might only bring $50 or less.
>>>
>>> If you really want to learn about planes, there's no better place to
>>> start than Patrick Leach's "Blood and Gore" web page:
>>>
>>> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
>>>
>>> He has excellent explanations of the 45 and 55 models, along with all
>>> the parts you should expect to see on a complete plane. It's an
>>> excellent resource to print off and take with you to the auction to see
>>> if those planes are worth purchasing and re-selling. And if you read
>>> very far at all into what Patrick says about them, re-selling them is
>>> the ONLY thing you're going to want to do. I've never owned either of
>>> these planes, but a friend of mine has one, and I've seen enough of them
>>> to know that what Patrick says is the truth: I would only use one "like
>>> if a gun was stuck to my head, or something like that". :-)
>>>
>>
>>
>> Forgot to mention. I did get a real nice #7 Stanley for $30. I have a
>> feeling
>> this one will actually get used.
>
> Ah good, the No. 7 is definitely a useful beast. I was just using mine
> today to edge joint some long 1" thick rough-sawn hickory boards for
> gluing up into wider boards (making some shelves for the weef). Mind
> you, I'm not trying to use the hand plane to achieve a perfectly
> straight and true surface for gluing boards together (I don't have THAT
> much patience!), only to get them "close" for the final pass (or two, or
> three) through the power jointer. You'd be surprised how much quicker it
> can be to knock down the high spots with a hand plane prior to running a
> board through the power jointer or planer; I might have huffed that damn
> board through the power jointer 12 to 15 times before getting it
> straight enough to glue up. A No. 5 jack plane is also very useful for
> this type of work.
>
> Something else I like to do after truing up a board in this fashion is
> to make a final pass or two over the power-jointed edge with a No. 3 (or
> a 5-1/4; same width, 3-1/2" longer) that has a RAZOR sharp edge and
> taking a VERY light cut. This removes all the milling marks left by the
> power jointer and leaves a glassy smooth finish that gives you the
> absolute best surface for edge gluing. Two boards edge-jointed in this
> fashion will glue together with a seam so tight you'll never see it
> unless you inspect really closely.
>
> Any idea what vintage your No. 7 is? This page
> http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/stan-bpl/bailey-types.htm is
> an excellent resource for determining the approximate year of manufacture.
>
Well, using that info and this one
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/pdatechart.pdf i have determined
i have a hybird. The bed is pre 1899 and the "works" above the frog are
1899-1902.
Now, is there a link that tells me how to adjust that iron and the piece
on top of it? I believe it's called a 'cap iron'.
thanks
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 4/19/2012 8:20 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Steve Barker wrote:
>
>> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO
>> tomorrow and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4
>> to 8 inch wide red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two
>> years ago.
>
> You would suck if you did...
>
LOL! I've still got a third of that pile left.
Sure gives the planer a workout, though. I don't know what them blue
shirt boys saw with, but it's got a pretty loose thickness control.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 4/20/2012 12:13 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Steve Barker<[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>>
>> LOL! I've still got a third of that pile left.
>> Sure gives the planer a workout, though. I don't know what them blue
>> shirt boys saw with, but it's got a pretty loose thickness control.
>>
>
> It does get pretty interesting trying to plane boards of varying thickness,
> doesn't it? Even moreso if you don't notice how far off the board is
> before attempting to put it through. My planer just wasn't designed to go
> from taking off 1/32" to 1/4" in 3'.
>
> Puckdropper
yeah i usually end up (if i'm doing a few or more of them at a time)
pushing them through with it off and finding the thickest point, then
screw it down a half turn and start making passes with all the boards.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 4/19/2012 8:11 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO tomorrow
> and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4 to 8 inch wide
> red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two years ago.
>
>
well, no lumber this year. But i did eyeball a model 55 and several
model 45 stanley planes. Fixin' to look them up to see what they're worth.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 4/20/2012 7:08 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
> On 4/19/2012 8:11 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
>> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO tomorrow
>> and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4 to 8 inch wide
>> red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two years ago.
>>
>>
>
> well, no lumber this year. But i did eyeball a model 55 and several model 45
> stanley planes. Fixin' to look them up to see what they're worth.
What they're worth is really a function of how complete they are and how many
cutters are included. If it's in good condition with all the parts and
accessories and a full array of cutters, it can bring upwards of $300 on eBay;
more if it's in the original box. No-so-complete models might only bring $50
or less.
If you really want to learn about planes, there's no better place to start than
Patrick Leach's "Blood and Gore" web page:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
He has excellent explanations of the 45 and 55 models, along with all the parts
you should expect to see on a complete plane. It's an excellent resource to
print off and take with you to the auction to see if those planes are worth
purchasing and re-selling. And if you read very far at all into what Patrick
says about them, re-selling them is the ONLY thing you're going to want to do.
I've never owned either of these planes, but a friend of mine has one, and
I've seen enough of them to know that what Patrick says is the truth: I would
only use one "like if a gun was stuck to my head, or something like that". :-)
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 4/22/2012 3:40 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
> On 4/20/2012 9:33 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
>> On 4/20/2012 7:08 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>> On 4/19/2012 8:11 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>>> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO tomorrow
>>>> and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4 to 8 inch wide
>>>> red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two years ago.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> well, no lumber this year. But i did eyeball a model 55 and several
>>> model 45
>>> stanley planes. Fixin' to look them up to see what they're worth.
>>
>> What they're worth is really a function of how complete they are and how
>> many cutters are included. If it's in good condition with all the parts
>> and accessories and a full array of cutters, it can bring upwards of
>> $300 on eBay; more if it's in the original box. No-so-complete models
>> might only bring $50 or less.
>>
>> If you really want to learn about planes, there's no better place to
>> start than Patrick Leach's "Blood and Gore" web page:
>>
>> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
>>
>> He has excellent explanations of the 45 and 55 models, along with all
>> the parts you should expect to see on a complete plane. It's an
>> excellent resource to print off and take with you to the auction to see
>> if those planes are worth purchasing and re-selling. And if you read
>> very far at all into what Patrick says about them, re-selling them is
>> the ONLY thing you're going to want to do. I've never owned either of
>> these planes, but a friend of mine has one, and I've seen enough of them
>> to know that what Patrick says is the truth: I would only use one "like
>> if a gun was stuck to my head, or something like that". :-)
>>
>
>
> Forgot to mention. I did get a real nice #7 Stanley for $30. I have a feeling
> this one will actually get used.
Ah good, the No. 7 is definitely a useful beast. I was just using mine today
to edge joint some long 1" thick rough-sawn hickory boards for gluing up into
wider boards (making some shelves for the weef). Mind you, I'm not trying to
use the hand plane to achieve a perfectly straight and true surface for gluing
boards together (I don't have THAT much patience!), only to get them "close"
for the final pass (or two, or three) through the power jointer. You'd be
surprised how much quicker it can be to knock down the high spots with a hand
plane prior to running a board through the power jointer or planer; I might
have huffed that damn board through the power jointer 12 to 15 times before
getting it straight enough to glue up. A No. 5 jack plane is also very useful
for this type of work.
Something else I like to do after truing up a board in this fashion is to make
a final pass or two over the power-jointed edge with a No. 3 (or a 5-1/4; same
width, 3-1/2" longer) that has a RAZOR sharp edge and taking a VERY light cut.
This removes all the milling marks left by the power jointer and leaves a
glassy smooth finish that gives you the absolute best surface for edge gluing.
Two boards edge-jointed in this fashion will glue together with a seam so
tight you'll never see it unless you inspect really closely.
Any idea what vintage your No. 7 is? This page
http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/stan-bpl/bailey-types.htm is an
excellent resource for determining the approximate year of manufacture.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 4/22/2012 3:40 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
> On 4/20/2012 9:33 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
>> On 4/20/2012 7:08 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>> On 4/19/2012 8:11 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>>> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO tomorrow
>>>> and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4 to 8 inch wide
>>>> red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two years ago.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> well, no lumber this year. But i did eyeball a model 55 and several
>>> model 45
>>> stanley planes. Fixin' to look them up to see what they're worth.
>>
>> What they're worth is really a function of how complete they are and how
>> many cutters are included. If it's in good condition with all the parts
>> and accessories and a full array of cutters, it can bring upwards of
>> $300 on eBay; more if it's in the original box. No-so-complete models
>> might only bring $50 or less.
>>
>> If you really want to learn about planes, there's no better place to
>> start than Patrick Leach's "Blood and Gore" web page:
>>
>> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
>>
>> He has excellent explanations of the 45 and 55 models, along with all
>> the parts you should expect to see on a complete plane. It's an
>> excellent resource to print off and take with you to the auction to see
>> if those planes are worth purchasing and re-selling. And if you read
>> very far at all into what Patrick says about them, re-selling them is
>> the ONLY thing you're going to want to do. I've never owned either of
>> these planes, but a friend of mine has one, and I've seen enough of them
>> to know that what Patrick says is the truth: I would only use one "like
>> if a gun was stuck to my head, or something like that". :-)
>>
>
>
> Forgot to mention. I did get a real nice #7 Stanley for $30. I have a feeling
> this one will actually get used.
Ah good, the No. 7 is definitely a useful beast. I was just using mine today
to edge joint some long 1" thick rough-sawn hickory boards for gluing up into
wider boards (making some shelves for the weef). Mind you, I'm not trying to
use the hand plane to achieve a perfectly straight and true surface for gluing
boards together (I don't have THAT much patience!), only to get them "close"
for the final pass (or two, or three) through the power jointer. You'd be
surprised how much quicker it can be to knock down the high spots with a hand
plane prior to running a board through the power jointer or planer; I might
have huffed that damn board through the power jointer 12 to 15 times before
getting it straight enough to glue up. A No. 5 jack plane is also very useful
for this type of work.
Something else I like to do after truing up a board in this fashion is to make
a final pass or two over the power-jointed edge with a No. 3 (or a 5-1/4; same
width, 3-1/2" longer) that has a RAZOR sharp edge and taking a VERY light cut.
This removes all the milling marks left by the power jointer and leaves a
glassy smooth finish that gives you the absolute best surface for edge gluing.
Two boards edge-jointed in this fashion will glue together with a seam so
tight you'll never see it unless you inspect really closely.
Any idea what vintage your No. 7 is? This page
http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/stan-bpl/bailey-types.htm is an
excellent resource for determining the approximate year of manufacture.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 4/20/2012 9:33 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
> On 4/20/2012 7:08 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>> On 4/19/2012 8:11 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO tomorrow
>>> and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4 to 8 inch wide
>>> red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two years ago.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> well, no lumber this year. But i did eyeball a model 55 and several
>> model 45
>> stanley planes. Fixin' to look them up to see what they're worth.
>
> What they're worth is really a function of how complete they are and how
> many cutters are included. If it's in good condition with all the parts
> and accessories and a full array of cutters, it can bring upwards of
> $300 on eBay; more if it's in the original box. No-so-complete models
> might only bring $50 or less.
>
> If you really want to learn about planes, there's no better place to
> start than Patrick Leach's "Blood and Gore" web page:
>
> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
>
> He has excellent explanations of the 45 and 55 models, along with all
> the parts you should expect to see on a complete plane. It's an
> excellent resource to print off and take with you to the auction to see
> if those planes are worth purchasing and re-selling. And if you read
> very far at all into what Patrick says about them, re-selling them is
> the ONLY thing you're going to want to do. I've never owned either of
> these planes, but a friend of mine has one, and I've seen enough of them
> to know that what Patrick says is the truth: I would only use one "like
> if a gun was stuck to my head, or something like that". :-)
>
Forgot to mention. I did get a real nice #7 Stanley for $30. I have a
feeling this one will actually get used.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 4/20/2012 9:33 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
> On 4/20/2012 7:08 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>> On 4/19/2012 8:11 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
>>> We're off to the annual two day Amish auction in Rich Hill, MO tomorrow
>>> and Saturday. I hope to score another 512 board feet of 4 to 8 inch wide
>>> red oak, 8 feet long, for 85 cents a BF like i did two years ago.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> well, no lumber this year. But i did eyeball a model 55 and several
>> model 45
>> stanley planes. Fixin' to look them up to see what they're worth.
>
> What they're worth is really a function of how complete they are and how
> many cutters are included. If it's in good condition with all the parts
> and accessories and a full array of cutters, it can bring upwards of
> $300 on eBay; more if it's in the original box. No-so-complete models
> might only bring $50 or less.
>
> If you really want to learn about planes, there's no better place to
> start than Patrick Leach's "Blood and Gore" web page:
>
> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
>
> He has excellent explanations of the 45 and 55 models, along with all
> the parts you should expect to see on a complete plane. It's an
> excellent resource to print off and take with you to the auction to see
> if those planes are worth purchasing and re-selling. And if you read
> very far at all into what Patrick says about them, re-selling them is
> the ONLY thing you're going to want to do. I've never owned either of
> these planes, but a friend of mine has one, and I've seen enough of them
> to know that what Patrick says is the truth: I would only use one "like
> if a gun was stuck to my head, or something like that". :-)
>
thanks for the reply. Although i fell asleep early friday and didn't
see it (your reply) until after the auction on sat. The #55 went for
$135 and the high bidder didn't show any sign of letting it go. I
should have bumped him a bit, but i didn't want to get stuck with it.
It was not complete as far as the cutters were concerned, so i knew it's
value was way reduced. I was actually working as a ticket runner for
the auction company and missed the #45's, so i have no idea what they
went for. After the short research i did on friday night and the link
you sent, i know now that it will be purely ornamental if i ever have a
chance to buy one again. LOL!!
steve
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email