JL

Jim Laumann

29/01/2005 8:50 PM

Removing "gook" from saw blades?

HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Thanks

Jim


This topic has 14 replies

Br

Ba r r y

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

30/01/2005 12:02 AM

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 23:21:59 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Yes some use it and some use Simple Green. I prefer to use a product
>specifically formulated for the task and that leaves a protective film on
>the blade. The other products may cause rust. CMT's Formula 2050.
>Environmentally friendly, non toxic, works real fast, and my first bottle
>lasted 3 years.

When I think about it, blades cleaned in Simple Green or washing soda
still need to be sprayed with Boeshield or something similar to
prevent rust. The CMT product probably costs less per application
than the others, if you consider the total job cost.

Barry

sS

[email protected] (Scott Altman)

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

29/01/2005 4:22 PM

I use spary carburator cleaner to remove pitch etc. stuff runs
off...don't breathe too much of it.
It'll clean your lungs permanently.

RT

Rolling Thunder

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

29/01/2005 10:57 PM

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:50:01 GMT, Jim Laumann <[email protected]>
wrote:


>Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
>the build up. Can any one confirm?
>
>Thanks
>
>Jim

Yes, I use oven cleaner. It will remove any printing on the blade
too.

Thunder

Gg

"George"

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

29/01/2005 4:31 PM


"Jim Laumann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> HI
>
> I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
> on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
> my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>
> Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
> the build up. Can any one confirm?
>

Doesn't have to be that harsh an alkali - use something like TSP -90 wall
cleaner, or a dilute version sold as "Simple Green" is good as well.
Non-aluminum plate big enough to hold the blade - plastic at my house -
solution to cover.
Five minutes and perhaps a run at the worst crap with a toothbrush, then a
rinse and dry.

Ms

Mike

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

29/01/2005 3:43 PM

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:50:01 GMT, Jim Laumann <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
>on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
>my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>
>Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
>the build up. Can any one confirm?


It will get the sap off but it's messy and kind of a pain. I don't
know if cleaning the blade will solve the problem you describe.
Another type of blade better suited for ripping may be the answer.
We rarely (never) clean our blades but they are always clean when we
get them back from the sharpener guy. :-) I don't know what he uses.

Mike O.

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

30/01/2005 1:08 AM


"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> When I think about it, blades cleaned in Simple Green or washing soda
> still need to be sprayed with Boeshield or something similar to
> prevent rust. The CMT product probably costs less per application
> than the others, if you consider the total job cost.


Every time I use a router bit I spray it down with the CMT cleaner. Plus,
I use the cleaner for everything. It is great for cleaning the smoke stain
off the stainless steel on my Smoker. ;~)

Wn

Will

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

30/01/2005 10:25 AM

Jim:

I have used Varsol - from Home Hardware or Home Depot. It cleans a lot
off immediately. I just wipe the blade down as best I am able getting
everything off the teeth edges.

For what is left - I clean the blade right on the saw as follows...

I use the Paper towel like shop towels - blue coloured -- since they are
quite tough, and a tongue-depressor-like stick of wood.

1. Unplug the saw. :-)
3. Wet down a shop towel with Varsol and rotate through the blade
cleaning the sides as much as possible. Wipe with a fine brass brush and
re-clean at this stage if need be - it will make cleaning the teeth go
faster.
2. Using a thin piece of wood 1/8 " (3mm) or less -- wrap a torn off
piece of paper shop towel around the end two or three times -- it should
still lay flat on the stick. (Cut the piece of towel with scissors if
you are a neat freak or like precision. :-) )
3. Apply Varsol to the piece of paper shop towel on the stick - soak it
good.
4. Swipe across each tooth till it cleans up. Try tests Test working in
each direction ( up and down , across , rotating etc.) till you find the
method that tears the towel the least on this particular blade -- and
then clean the rest of the teeth in a similar manner.
5. For stubborn scale and baked on gum a thumbnail or brass brush should
scrape it off after Varsol has softened it.
6. Give a final clean up with the Varsol soaked rag
7. Test

It usually takes 5- 10 min for a rip (24 tooth) blade, 10 to 15 min for
a 40 tooth General Purpose and 15 min or a bit more for a 50-80 tooth
blade.

---------
Will

Jim Laumann wrote:
> HI
>
> I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
> on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
> my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>
> Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
> the build up. Can any one confirm?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim

sD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

30/01/2005 3:29 PM

In article <[email protected]>, "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Simple Green and a stiff brush works quite well, isn't caustic, and is
>pretty pleasant to work with. I use a brass bore brush (gun) to clean out
>the gullets and a brass "tooth brush"* to clean the rest of the teeth.

And washing soda is even easier. Five or ten minutes of soaking in a solution
of washing soda (1/4 cup per quart of warm water), and most of the gunk simply
rinses away without any scrubbing at all.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

JG

"John Grossbohlin"

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

30/01/2005 4:15 AM


"George E. Cawthon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim Laumann wrote:
>> HI
>>
>> I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
>> on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition my
>> hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>>
>> Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
>> the build up. Can any one confirm?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Jim
>
> Oven cleaner works very well especially with burned resin, but simple
> green (spray concentrate on the blade, let sit then put into water)
> probably gets most stuff off and is gentler.

Simple Green and a stiff brush works quite well, isn't caustic, and is
pretty pleasant to work with. I use a brass bore brush (gun) to clean out
the gullets and a brass "tooth brush"* to clean the rest of the teeth.

John

*Disclaimer: Do not use brass tooth brush for dental hygiene as, though good
for removing plaque, it is too rough on the gums and tooth enamel.

b

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

30/01/2005 12:44 PM

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 16:31:49 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:

>
>"Jim Laumann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> HI
>>
>> I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
>> on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
>> my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>>
>> Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
>> the build up. Can any one confirm?
>>
>
>Doesn't have to be that harsh an alkali - use something like TSP -90 wall
>cleaner, or a dilute version sold as "Simple Green" is good as well.
>Non-aluminum plate big enough to hold the blade - plastic at my house -
>solution to cover.
>Five minutes and perhaps a run at the worst crap with a toothbrush, then a
>rinse and dry.
>


5 gallon plastic bucket. stack the blades with layers of mesh non-slip
pad between them. warm the solution. washing soda works fine. 15
minutes or so and scrub a bit with a nylon brush. dry and store.

Le

LP

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

30/01/2005 1:21 PM

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 10:25:15 -0500, Will <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Jim:
>
>I have used Varsol - from Home Hardware or Home Depot. It cleans a lot
>off immediately. I just wipe the blade down as best I am able getting
>everything off the teeth edges.
>
>For what is left - I clean the blade right on the saw as follows...
>
>I use the Paper towel like shop towels - blue coloured -- since they are
>quite tough, and a tongue-depressor-like stick of wood.
>
>1. Unplug the saw. :-)
>3. Wet down a shop towel with Varsol and rotate through the blade
>cleaning the sides as much as possible. Wipe with a fine brass brush and
>re-clean at this stage if need be - it will make cleaning the teeth go
>faster.
>2. Using a thin piece of wood 1/8 " (3mm) or less -- wrap a torn off
>piece of paper shop towel around the end two or three times -- it should
>still lay flat on the stick. (Cut the piece of towel with scissors if
>you are a neat freak or like precision. :-) )
>3. Apply Varsol to the piece of paper shop towel on the stick - soak it
>good.
>4. Swipe across each tooth till it cleans up. Try tests Test working in
>each direction ( up and down , across , rotating etc.) till you find the
>method that tears the towel the least on this particular blade -- and
>then clean the rest of the teeth in a similar manner.
>5. For stubborn scale and baked on gum a thumbnail or brass brush should
>scrape it off after Varsol has softened it.
>6. Give a final clean up with the Varsol soaked rag
>7. Test
>
>It usually takes 5- 10 min for a rip (24 tooth) blade, 10 to 15 min for
>a 40 tooth General Purpose and 15 min or a bit more for a 50-80 tooth
>blade.
>
>---------
>Will
>
>Jim Laumann wrote:
>> HI
>>
>> I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
>> on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
>> my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>>
>> Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
>> the build up. Can any one confirm?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Jim

Best thing I've found is "Fast Orange" hand cleaner from the auto
parts store. Just smear some on, wait 2-3 minutes and rinse it off.
Presto! Clean blade. The cleaner has pumice in it but it isnt a
factor since you have to do very little rubbing. A few seconds with a
paper towel dries the blade nicely and I've never had any problems
caused by water remaining on it.

I've used oven cleaner in the past and it does work well but it's
messy and hard on the skin And it took all the maker's marks off the
saw so unless you remark it somehow you have to guess what blade it
is. I dont know what oven clean will do to a teflon blade. Not good,
is my guess.

LJ

Larry Jaques

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

29/01/2005 5:31 PM

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:50:01 GMT, the inscrutable Jim Laumann
<[email protected]> spake:

>HI
>
>I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
>on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
>my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>
>Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
>the build up. Can any one confirm?

Simple Green is my favorite. Remove the blade, soak for a few minutes
in a large pie tin, scrub gently with an old used (wife's/kid's)
toothbrush, rinse, wipe dry, and reinstall. You're done in half an
hour (with half of that time soaking while you do something else,
like clean inside the saw and sweep the floor.)


========================================================
TANSTAAFL: There ain't no such thing as a free lunch.
http://diversify.com Gourmet Web Applications
==========================

GE

"George E. Cawthon"

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

30/01/2005 3:37 AM

Jim Laumann wrote:
> HI
>
> I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
> on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
> my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>
> Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
> the build up. Can any one confirm?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim

Oven cleaner works very well especially with burned resin,
but simple green (spray concentrate on the blade, let sit
then put into water) probably gets most stuff off and is
gentler.

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to Jim Laumann on 29/01/2005 8:50 PM

29/01/2005 11:21 PM

Yes some use it and some use Simple Green. I prefer to use a product
specifically formulated for the task and that leaves a protective film on
the blade. The other products may cause rust. CMT's Formula 2050.
Environmentally friendly, non toxic, works real fast, and my first bottle
lasted 3 years.


"Jim Laumann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> HI
>
> I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
> on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
> my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.
>
> Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
> the build up. Can any one confirm?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim


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