I'm building a router table and am undecided over the fence. Norm's
design has a continuous fence which requires shimming to avoid snipe
where the bit may remove material from the entire workpiece edge. A
split fence avoids the shimming but may be more difficult to adjust.
Or is the real solution to make both a split fence and a continuous
fence? Or, is this approach just a waste of time?
Any thoughts?
[email protected] wrote:
> I'm building a router table and am undecided over the fence. Norm's
> design has a continuous fence which requires shimming to avoid snipe
> where the bit may remove material from the entire workpiece edge. A
> split fence avoids the shimming but may be more difficult to adjust.
You need to shim either way, but in the split case you can put the shims
between the fence and the sub-fence.
I like a split fence because it can be adjusted to give tight clearance
for different diameter bits. The gap above the bit also provides some
airflow to help entrain chips into the dust port in the fence.
Chris
Nice!!!
On Nov 23, 3:32 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> Split fence has it merits but at some expense. Requires a well made
> fence and the ability to straighten, offset & square it to the table.
> In my view, its risks, and infrequency of use are reasons not to make
> or use.
> Full thickness cuts, essentially only those that need a split fence,
> are very power demanding cuts, hard on the cutter & router and should
> be done on the shaper where power, fixturing, and cutters permit.
> A fence for continuous, unbroken, safe duty:http://patwarner.com/images/1704a.jpg
> ***************************************************************************-*
>
> On Nov 23, 10:39 am, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm building a router table and am undecided over the fence. Norm's
> > design has a continuous fence which requires shimming to avoid snipe
> > where the bit may remove material from the entire workpiece edge. A
> > split fence avoids the shimming but may be more difficult to adjust.
>
> > Or is the real solution to make both a split fence and a continuous
> > fence? Or, is this approach just a waste of time?
>
> > Any thoughts?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
On Nov 23, 6:32 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> Split fence has it merits but at some expense. Requires a well made
> fence and the ability to straighten, offset & square it to the table.
> In my view, its risks, and infrequency of use are reasons not to make
> or use.
> Full thickness cuts, essentially only those that need a split fence,
> are very power demanding cuts, hard on the cutter & router and should
> be done on the shaper where power, fixturing, and cutters permit.
> A fence for continuous, unbroken, safe duty
>http://patwarner.com/images/1704a.jpg
That just oozes quality.
Split fence has it merits but at some expense. Requires a well made
fence and the ability to straighten, offset & square it to the table.
In my view, its risks, and infrequency of use are reasons not to make
or use.
Full thickness cuts, essentially only those that need a split fence,
are very power demanding cuts, hard on the cutter & router and should
be done on the shaper where power, fixturing, and cutters permit.
A fence for continuous, unbroken, safe duty:
http://patwarner.com/images/1704a.jpg
****************************************************************************
On Nov 23, 10:39 am, [email protected] wrote:
> I'm building a router table and am undecided over the fence. Norm's
> design has a continuous fence which requires shimming to avoid snipe
> where the bit may remove material from the entire workpiece edge. A
> split fence avoids the shimming but may be more difficult to adjust.
>
> Or is the real solution to make both a split fence and a continuous
> fence? Or, is this approach just a waste of time?
>
> Any thoughts?
I like split fences and no, you don't always have to shim, you can buy
or make adustable versions.
Freud makes a nice simple little unit with micro adjustable thumb
screw adjustments.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SH-5-Professional-Micro-Adjustable-Router/dp/B00005Q7CN
Just a note: I was also always amazed at how poorly the Incra fence
systems (expensive muthas) handle the split fence and other type of
micro adjustments.
Hint: When doing a full removal cut lay a straight edge on the outfeed
fence and have it extend out to the cutter rotate the cutter by hand
and adjust the fence just until it scrapes the straight edge. You can
do the same on straight cuts with a bearing or cutter with the
straight edge across both sections of fence. Maybe everyone already
knows this or its just obvious but it was taught to me by an old
timer when I first sarted out and I never forget it.
On Nov 23, 10:39 am, [email protected] wrote:
> I'm building a router table and am undecided over the fence. Norm's
> design has a continuous fence which requires shimming to avoid snipe
> where the bit may remove material from the entire workpiece edge. A
> split fence avoids the shimming but may be more difficult to adjust.
>
> Or is the real solution to make both a split fence and a continuous
> fence? Or, is this approach just a waste of time?
>
> Any thoughts?
On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 19:21:14 -0800 (PST), Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Nov 23, 6:32 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> Split fence has it merits but at some expense. Requires a well made
>> fence and the ability to straighten, offset & square it to the table.
>> In my view, its risks, and infrequency of use are reasons not to make
>> or use.
>> Full thickness cuts, essentially only those that need a split fence,
>> are very power demanding cuts, hard on the cutter & router and should
>> be done on the shaper where power, fixturing, and cutters permit.
>> A fence for continuous, unbroken, safe duty
>
>>http://patwarner.com/images/1704a.jpg
>
>That just oozes quality.
yeah... Pat's jigs are nicer than the furniture in my house..
mac
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