I plan to build a 10 foot long bench and imbed a radial arm saw, miter saw
and table top drill press into the top, thus, making them all flushed with
the top for an even flow. I have a general idea how to approach this project
but would like some input and perhaps ideas that I may not be thinking
about, such as a removable/replaceable section for the radial arm saw, which
I will do. Any other input is appreciated.
Thanks
"SBH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I plan to build a 10 foot long bench and imbed a radial arm saw, miter saw
>and table top drill press into the top, thus, making them all flushed with
>the top for an even flow. I have a general idea how to approach this
>project but would like some input and perhaps ideas that I may not be
>thinking about, such as a removable/replaceable section for the radial arm
>saw, which I will do. Any other input is appreciated.
>
> Thanks
New Yankee Workshop has designs for this. :-)
On 8/17/08 10:48 AMAug 17, "SBH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I plan to build a 10 foot long bench and imbed a radial arm saw, miter saw
> and table top drill press into the top, thus, making them all flushed with
> the top for an even flow. I have a general idea how to approach this project
> but would like some input and perhaps ideas that I may not be thinking
> about, such as a removable/replaceable section for the radial arm saw, which
I have my radial arm saw mounted in a similar arrangement. I built a base
cabinet with work top against one wall. It is 8' long and 24" deep. On the
end of this, I built a lower cabinet sized to put the RAS table at the same
height as the work bench.
I use the RAS almost always as a chop saw to do cutoffs and bevels on long
boards. This arrangement provides good support for boards up to 9' long. If
need be, I use a portable work stand to support the other end. If you have a
table saw, or if you think you might acquire one, think about whether you
really need both the RAS and the miter saw. I have a mtier saw but don't
have it mounted in my workshop. Instead, I carry it to the work site if I am
doing something like installing trim.
One general suggestion try to keep the heights of all your tool work
surfaces the same. I have my table saw, router table and free standing work
bench at the same heights the built-in work bench and RAS table. This lets
my handle large pieces by spanning across the different surfaces.
"SBH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I plan to build a 10 foot long bench and imbed a radial arm saw, miter saw
>and table top drill press into the top, thus, making them all flushed with
>the top for an even flow. I have a general idea how to approach this
>project but would like some input and perhaps ideas that I may not be
>thinking about, such as a removable/replaceable section for the radial arm
>saw, which I will do. Any other input is appreciated.
>
> Thanks
BTW, if anyone has any pictures of something similar they can send or direct
me to, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
SBH wrote:
> "Robert Haar" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:C4CDDD10.4258D3%
>> I have my radial arm saw mounted in a similar arrangement. I built a base
>> cabinet with work top against one wall. It is 8' long and 24" deep. On the
>> end of this, I built a lower cabinet sized to put the RAS table at the
>> same
>> height as the work bench.
>>
>> I use the RAS almost always as a chop saw to do cutoffs and bevels on long
>> boards. This arrangement provides good support for boards up to 9' long.
>> If
>> need be, I use a portable work stand to support the other end. If you have
>> a
>> table saw, or if you think you might acquire one, think about whether you
>> really need both the RAS and the miter saw. I have a mtier saw but don't
>> have it mounted in my workshop. Instead, I carry it to the work site if I
>> am
>> doing something like installing trim.
>>
>> One general suggestion try to keep the heights of all your tool work
>> surfaces the same. I have my table saw, router table and free standing
>> work
>> bench at the same heights the built-in work bench and RAS table. This lets
>> my handle large pieces by spanning across the different surfaces.
>
>
> Ahh, thanks for mentioning the router table. I think in place of the miter,
> I will put the router table. I do prefer to keep the miter handy to
> eliminate the need of constant blade changing. I do have a table saw, which
> will house one type of blade, the RAS for another and the miter for yet
> another. But the miter can go anywhere and I may just purchase a rolling
> stand. But the router table is needed more.
>
>
Why skip the miter saw station. The New Yankee Workshop plans provide
for mounting the miter, router and mortising machine on interchangeable
bases. When you don't need one of these you insert a blank in the hole.
You can use each machine in a stand alone configuration if needed.
Check it out on their webpage.
Dave Nagel
"David G. Nagel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Why skip the miter saw station. The New Yankee Workshop plans provide for
> mounting the miter, router and mortising machine on interchangeable bases.
> When you don't need one of these you insert a blank in the hole.
> You can use each machine in a stand alone configuration if needed.
> Check it out on their webpage.
>
> Dave Nagel
I like that idea. Though, I went to the NYW web site and could not find
anything about that type of bench.
I'll try again.
Thanks
On Aug 17, 6:23=A0pm, "SBH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I plan to build a 10 foot long bench and imbed a radial arm saw, miter s=
aw
> >and table top drill press into the top, thus, making them all flushed wi=
th
> >the top for an even flow. I have a general idea how to approach this
> >project but would like some input and perhaps ideas that I may not be
> >thinking about, such as a removable/replaceable section for the radial a=
rm
> >saw, which I will do. Any other input is appreciated.
>
> > Thanks
>
> BTW, if anyone has any pictures of something similar they can send or dir=
ect
> me to, I would greatly appreciate it.
http://www.firstdesignwoodworking.com/id13.html
I'm curious what Google turned up for you. It might move the
discussion along if you posted links to things you liked or had
questions about, rather than just tossing an open-ended question into
the room.
R
"Robert Haar" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:C4CDDD10.4258D3%
>
> I have my radial arm saw mounted in a similar arrangement. I built a base
> cabinet with work top against one wall. It is 8' long and 24" deep. On the
> end of this, I built a lower cabinet sized to put the RAS table at the
> same
> height as the work bench.
>
> I use the RAS almost always as a chop saw to do cutoffs and bevels on long
> boards. This arrangement provides good support for boards up to 9' long.
> If
> need be, I use a portable work stand to support the other end. If you have
> a
> table saw, or if you think you might acquire one, think about whether you
> really need both the RAS and the miter saw. I have a mtier saw but don't
> have it mounted in my workshop. Instead, I carry it to the work site if I
> am
> doing something like installing trim.
>
> One general suggestion try to keep the heights of all your tool work
> surfaces the same. I have my table saw, router table and free standing
> work
> bench at the same heights the built-in work bench and RAS table. This lets
> my handle large pieces by spanning across the different surfaces.
Ahh, thanks for mentioning the router table. I think in place of the miter,
I will put the router table. I do prefer to keep the miter handy to
eliminate the need of constant blade changing. I do have a table saw, which
will house one type of blade, the RAS for another and the miter for yet
another. But the miter can go anywhere and I may just purchase a rolling
stand. But the router table is needed more.