NH

"N Hurst"

27/10/2006 10:38 AM

Critique My Router Table Top Idea Please?

I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router
table.

The piece is around 2.5 feet wide by 5 feet long.

Here's what I'm planning to do:

Cut two pieces of around 24" x 20"

Cut 3/4" MDF to same size.

Route a 9" x 12" space out of the middle of all pieces for the insert

Mount the first Corian piece to the MDF with some kind of glue, and use
machine bolts counter sunk into the Corian through the MDF with are
then tightened with countersunk nuts on the bottom of the MDF.

Clamp and wait for glue to dry

Glue second piece of Corian atop the first piece with some kind of
glue, giving me 1" of Corian plus the MDF for the total thickness of 1
3/4".

Clamp and wait for glue to dry

Trim edges in oak or other type wood and glue into place.

Route out slots for aluminum t track for mitre and fence slots.

Epoxy track into slots


Will this yield me a flat, solid, and long lasting surface? I'm open to
all suggestions and critiques, so please share what you've got!

I'm especially interested in learning about what kind of adhesive will
yield the best results for gluing Corian to the MDF and to the other
Corian. I checked the "This to That" site, but I don't know what
category Corian falls under. :-)

Thanks!

-Nathan


This topic has 13 replies

RN

"RayV"

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

27/10/2006 10:55 AM


N Hurst wrote:
> I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router
> table.
>
> The piece is around 2.5 feet wide by 5 feet long.
>
> Here's what I'm planning to do:
>
> Cut two pieces of around 24" x 20"
>

Don't think you need to double up the corian and have MDF.

24" x 20" is too small. I'm using the extension of my saw at 27" wide
and wish it were wider.

Can't help you with the glue.

tt

"tom"

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

27/10/2006 11:50 AM

I'm with Tim on this. Do an archival search on this same topic in this
newsgroup. More info than you can shake a stick at. Tom
Tim wrote:

> >
> Seems a little excessive. My router table is 1/2" corian screwed to an oak
> frame. Works just fine. And yes, as your other reply noted, 20x24 is
> pretty small. I would go with a single layer of corian and make it as large
> as you have room for.
> On a previous router table I glued corian to oak with polyurethane; worked
> fine.

NH

"N Hurst"

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

27/10/2006 12:14 PM

tom wrote:
> I'm with Tim on this. Do an archival search on this same topic in this
> newsgroup. More info than you can shake a stick at. Tom
> Tim wrote:
>
> > >
> > Seems a little excessive. My router table is 1/2" corian screwed to an oak
> > frame. Works just fine. And yes, as your other reply noted, 20x24 is
> > pretty small. I would go with a single layer of corian and make it as large
> > as you have room for.
> > On a previous router table I glued corian to oak with polyurethane; worked
> > fine.
Oh I've spent a good portion of the last few days doing just that, but
I was still unsure on a couple of points. I think that's mostly cleared
up. I try to DAGS every time I consider posting a thread here, but I
didn't see much about how to glue 2 pieces of Corian together (now
unnecessary), and table sizes, which was also addressed.

I just want to make sure I get a good table without wasting this stuff.
I got a good deal on it, but it won't be a good deal if it's wasted on
a blown project. :-)

Now that it looks like I won't need to double up on the Corian, I think
I'll have enough for another little project that I've been looking
forward to!

Oh! One final question: When I'm routing out the hole in the Corian for
the insert, should I limit it to 1/16" at a time, or what? I've read
that it can get messy if you let things get hot, but at the same time,
I don't want to be forced to make 6 passes with the router when 2 or 3
will do.

Thanks for all the help!

-Nathan

ss

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

27/10/2006 12:47 PM

Hi Nathan,

Most corian tops are only 1/2 thick. I can see the need to make it
beefier since you are going to cut slots for the tracks, but I would
suggest making the top longer than 24". If you are using it to make
any thing of length (molding in 8' sections) you are going to struggle
with keeping the stock flat on the table. The longer the better.

-Lee


N Hurst wrote:
> I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router
> table.
>
> The piece is around 2.5 feet wide by 5 feet long.
>
> Here's what I'm planning to do:
>
> Cut two pieces of around 24" x 20"
>
> Cut 3/4" MDF to same size.
>
> Route a 9" x 12" space out of the middle of all pieces for the insert
>
> Mount the first Corian piece to the MDF with some kind of glue, and use
> machine bolts counter sunk into the Corian through the MDF with are
> then tightened with countersunk nuts on the bottom of the MDF.
>
> Clamp and wait for glue to dry
>
> Glue second piece of Corian atop the first piece with some kind of
> glue, giving me 1" of Corian plus the MDF for the total thickness of 1
> 3/4".
>
> Clamp and wait for glue to dry
>
> Trim edges in oak or other type wood and glue into place.
>
> Route out slots for aluminum t track for mitre and fence slots.
>
> Epoxy track into slots
>
>
> Will this yield me a flat, solid, and long lasting surface? I'm open to
> all suggestions and critiques, so please share what you've got!
>
> I'm especially interested in learning about what kind of adhesive will
> yield the best results for gluing Corian to the MDF and to the other
> Corian. I checked the "This to That" site, but I don't know what
> category Corian falls under. :-)
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Nathan

Mm

"Mike"

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

27/10/2006 12:48 PM

> Oh! One final question: When I'm routing out the hole in the Corian for
> the insert, should I limit it to 1/16" at a time, or what? I've read
> that it can get messy if you let things get hot, but at the same time,
> I don't want to be forced to make 6 passes with the router when 2 or 3
> will do.
>
> Thanks for all the help!
>
> -Nathan


I would just cut out a rough opening with a jig saw and clean it up
with a straight bit in the router, followed with a rabbiting bit to
form the recess for the insert plate.

Mike

NH

"N Hurst"

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

27/10/2006 1:25 PM


Mike wrote:
> > Oh! One final question: When I'm routing out the hole in the Corian for
> > the insert, should I limit it to 1/16" at a time, or what? I've read
> > that it can get messy if you let things get hot, but at the same time,
> > I don't want to be forced to make 6 passes with the router when 2 or 3
> > will do.
> >
> > Thanks for all the help!
> >
> > -Nathan
>
>
> I would just cut out a rough opening with a jig saw and clean it up
> with a straight bit in the router, followed with a rabbiting bit to
> form the recess for the insert plate.
>
> Mike

The fellow I bought it from as well as other posters here have
indicated that cutting it with a jigsaw is not the best way to go about
cutting holes in Corian. Something about creating tiny cracks in the
structure that weaken the surface.

Do you know differently? It would make things a bit easier if I can do
it the way you describe.

-Nathan

LH

Lew Hodgett

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

28/10/2006 1:10 AM

N Hurst wrote:
> I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router
> table.
>
> The piece is around 2.5 feet wide by 5 feet long.
>
> Here's what I'm planning to do:
>
> Cut two pieces of around 24" x 20"

<snip>
A 24x20 table is much to small IMHO.

Mine is 24x34 and could be larger.

If I were in your position, would build a 24x36 table, rip the Corian
so that you get a 24 and a 5-7/8 piece.

Use the 24 for the table, the 5-7/8 for the fence.

Laminate 2 pieces of 3/4 ply along with the 1/2 Corian using epoxy.

Don't like epoxy? Use 3M 5200.

When cured, seal plywood with shellac.

Route slot in Corian, then mount T-Track in Corian using S/S flat hd
sheet metal screws.

Sabersaw hole for mounting plate, then clean up with router and
pattern bit using a pattern made from 1/4 hardboard.

BTW, use another piece of that 1/2 Corian for a table saw fence.

Lew

PB

Pat Barber

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

30/10/2006 3:45 PM

Why not look at existing commercial tops for size ideas ???

Like: http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerTables.htm

You will find that buying accessories much easier if you
use a more standard size.


N Hurst wrote:

> I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router
> table.
>
> The piece is around 2.5 feet wide by 5 feet long.

TT

"Tim"

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

27/10/2006 6:24 PM


"N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router
> table.
>
> The piece is around 2.5 feet wide by 5 feet long.
>
> Here's what I'm planning to do:
>
> Cut two pieces of around 24" x 20"
>
> Cut 3/4" MDF to same size.
>
> Route a 9" x 12" space out of the middle of all pieces for the insert
>
> Mount the first Corian piece to the MDF with some kind of glue, and use
> machine bolts counter sunk into the Corian through the MDF with are
> then tightened with countersunk nuts on the bottom of the MDF.
>
> Clamp and wait for glue to dry
>
> Glue second piece of Corian atop the first piece with some kind of
> glue, giving me 1" of Corian plus the MDF for the total thickness of 1
> 3/4".
>
> Clamp and wait for glue to dry
>
> Trim edges in oak or other type wood and glue into place.
>
> Route out slots for aluminum t track for mitre and fence slots.
>
> Epoxy track into slots
>
>
> Will this yield me a flat, solid, and long lasting surface? I'm open to
> all suggestions and critiques, so please share what you've got!
>
> I'm especially interested in learning about what kind of adhesive will
> yield the best results for gluing Corian to the MDF and to the other
> Corian. I checked the "This to That" site, but I don't know what
> category Corian falls under. :-)
>
Seems a little excessive. My router table is 1/2" corian screwed to an oak
frame. Works just fine. And yes, as your other reply noted, 20x24 is
pretty small. I would go with a single layer of corian and make it as large
as you have room for.
On a previous router table I glued corian to oak with polyurethane; worked
fine.

Wi

"Wilson"

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

28/10/2006 1:42 AM

Make the table 5' long if you have the space. It will be useful for big
door jobs, big drawer fronts, etc.
Wilson
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>N Hurst wrote:
> > I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router
> > table.
> >
> > The piece is around 2.5 feet wide by 5 feet long.
> >
> > Here's what I'm planning to do:
> >
> > Cut two pieces of around 24" x 20"
>
> <snip>
> A 24x20 table is much to small IMHO.
>
> Mine is 24x34 and could be larger.
>
> If I were in your position, would build a 24x36 table, rip the Corian so
> that you get a 24 and a 5-7/8 piece.
>
> Use the 24 for the table, the 5-7/8 for the fence.
>
> Laminate 2 pieces of 3/4 ply along with the 1/2 Corian using epoxy.
>
> Don't like epoxy? Use 3M 5200.
>
> When cured, seal plywood with shellac.
>
> Route slot in Corian, then mount T-Track in Corian using S/S flat hd sheet
> metal screws.
>
> Sabersaw hole for mounting plate, then clean up with router and pattern
> bit using a pattern made from 1/4 hardboard.
>
> BTW, use another piece of that 1/2 Corian for a table saw fence.
>
> Lew

TT

"Tim"

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

27/10/2006 8:23 PM

> Oh! One final question: When I'm routing out the hole in the Corian for
> the insert, should I limit it to 1/16" at a time, or what? I've read
> that it can get messy if you let things get hot, but at the same time,
> I don't want to be forced to make 6 passes with the router when 2 or 3
> will do.
>
Corian is much easier to work than you would think. They make a special 1
wing bit to prevent the heat you referred to, but unless you really abuse it
there is not a problem.

I cut my a 3/8" recess for the router plate and then cut the center out with
a jig saw. It didn't work at all; the 1/8" web broke in two places. I
ended up routing it all out and and putting in a 1/8" base for the router
plate; not an optimum solution.
Next time I would cut out the center with a jigsaw first, and then route the
recess out; if yo follow me.

l

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

28/10/2006 8:45 AM

I would skip using 2 plies of the corian. If you want the extra
thickness, use thicker MDF or lumber. If I read your description
right, your router table top will be 24" X 20"? If so give some
thought to making it wider.


--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]

l

in reply to "N Hurst" on 27/10/2006 10:38 AM

28/10/2006 8:48 AM

In article <[email protected]>,
N Hurst <[email protected]> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>Oh! One final question: When I'm routing out the hole in the Corian for
>the insert, should I limit it to 1/16" at a time, or what? I've read
>that it can get messy if you let things get hot, but at the same time,
>I don't want to be forced to make 6 passes with the router when 2 or 3
>will do.


Rought out the opening with a jig saw before using the router.


--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]


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