Hi All,
New to the group and hobby. I recently moved to a country acre in
Georgia, and have cut down some maple, elm, and oak, which provided me
with some nice straight lengths of 4" - 8" diameter logs.
It's my intention to build a gazebo-like structure, using 7'-8' tall
"posts" of about 6" diameter. Each post will be 3'-4' feet apart, with
a 4"-5" "beam" laying across the top, bolted to the top of each post.
Additionally, between each pair of posts (except doorways), two rails
(3"-4") will run across at 1' and 3' held in place with mortise and
tenion joints. The "roof" will be left open. I don't see any
significant weight issues.
The wood is cut (not necessarily to length) and stored outside under a
tarp. It's been about a week since cutting.
Ideally, I would like to leave the bark on. So far, my research
indicates that this might not be a good idea. Is there a good sealing
material that can be used over the bark?
If I have to remove the bark, what are the best methods? What should I
use to seal the wood afterward? I'd like to use something
environmentally more friendly, as the structure will be surrounded by
plantings, and may be vine covered. Winters are mild, but we get a lot
of rain.
Each post will have a concrete footing with the post attached to it
using steel brackets and bolts. Are there better types of screws/bolts
to use to attach the bracket to the log post? I don't accidentally
want to encourage bottom rot.
I don't have access to a kiln, at best I could dry the wood by storing
it in my garage for a while. When can I begin assembling a structure
like this? does the wood need to dry for a time before it is sealed?
Any tips, suggestions, pitfalls to avoid, etc. are appreciated.
Thanks,
JIM
Jim wrote:>
>Hi All,
>
>New to the group and hobby. I recently moved to a country acre in
>Georgia, and have cut down some maple, elm, and oak, which provided me
>with some nice straight lengths of 4" - 8" diameter logs.
>
>It's my intention to build a gazebo-like structure, using 7'-8' tall
>"posts" of about 6" diameter. Each post will be 3'-4' feet apart, with
>a 4"-5" "beam" laying across the top, bolted to the top of each post.
>Additionally, between each pair of posts (except doorways), two rails
>(3"-4") will run across at 1' and 3' held in place with mortise and
>tenion joints. The "roof" will be left open. I don't see any
>significant weight issues.
>
>The wood is cut (not necessarily to length) and stored outside under a
>tarp. It's been about a week since cutting.
>
>Ideally, I would like to leave the bark on. So far, my research
>indicates that this might not be a good idea. Is there a good sealing
>material that can be used over the bark?
>
>If I have to remove the bark, what are the best methods? What should I
>use to seal the wood afterward? I'd like to use something
>environmentally more friendly, as the structure will be surrounded by
>plantings, and may be vine covered. Winters are mild, but we get a lot
>of rain.
>
>Each post will have a concrete footing with the post attached to it
>using steel brackets and bolts. Are there better types of screws/bolts
>to use to attach the bracket to the log post? I don't accidentally
>want to encourage bottom rot.
>
>I don't have access to a kiln, at best I could dry the wood by storing
>it in my garage for a while. When can I begin assembling a structure
>like this? does the wood need to dry for a time before it is sealed?
>
>Any tips, suggestions, pitfalls to avoid, etc. are appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>JIM
Do you want it to last very long? I'd use an outdoorsy species and save the
free stuff for indoorsy projects. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
Jim Luttgens wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> New to the group and hobby. I recently moved to a country acre in
> Georgia, and have cut down some maple, elm, and oak, which provided me
> with some nice straight lengths of 4" - 8" diameter logs.
>
> It's my intention to build a gazebo-like structure, using 7'-8' tall
> "posts" of about 6" diameter. Each post will be 3'-4' feet apart, with
> a 4"-5" "beam" laying across the top, bolted to the top of each post.
> Additionally, between each pair of posts (except doorways), two rails
> (3"-4") will run across at 1' and 3' held in place with mortise and
> tenion joints. The "roof" will be left open. I don't see any
> significant weight issues.
>
> The wood is cut (not necessarily to length) and stored outside under a
> tarp. It's been about a week since cutting.
>
> Ideally, I would like to leave the bark on. So far, my research
> indicates that this might not be a good idea. Is there a good sealing
> material that can be used over the bark?
>
> If I have to remove the bark, what are the best methods? What should I
> use to seal the wood afterward? I'd like to use something
> environmentally more friendly, as the structure will be surrounded by
> plantings, and may be vine covered. Winters are mild, but we get a lot
> of rain.
>
> Each post will have a concrete footing with the post attached to it
> using steel brackets and bolts. Are there better types of screws/bolts
> to use to attach the bracket to the log post? I don't accidentally
> want to encourage bottom rot.
>
> I don't have access to a kiln, at best I could dry the wood by storing
> it in my garage for a while. When can I begin assembling a structure
> like this? does the wood need to dry for a time before it is sealed?
>
> Any tips, suggestions, pitfalls to avoid, etc. are appreciated.
First thing, for outdoors air dry would be preferable--if you kiln dry then
mill it it's likely to take up moisture and change dimension when you put
it back outside.
Next, there's a reason that redwood, heart cedar, ipe, pressure-treated
pine, etc are used for decks--they have very high decay resistance. White
oak isn't terrible but it's not in that league. Red oak fuhgedaboudid.
Ditto maple and elm. They don't hold up outdoors in New England, let along
Georgia. If you want it to last use one of the decay-resistant species or
pressure treated lumber or one of the synthetic or semi-synthetic decking
materials. Or, alternatively, build it like a house with proper concrete
footings, a waterproof roof, siding, etc, but then it's not going to be
what I think you're going for.
> Thanks,
> JIM
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
In Alabama, we'd call that a termite feeder - - don't build any outdoor
structure within a foot of the ground withoug treated lumber.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim Luttgens wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > New to the group and hobby. I recently moved to a country acre in
> > Georgia, and have cut down some maple, elm, and oak, which provided me
> > with some nice straight lengths of 4" - 8" diameter logs.
> >
> > It's my intention to build a gazebo-like structure, using 7'-8' tall
> > "posts" of about 6" diameter. Each post will be 3'-4' feet apart, with
> > a 4"-5" "beam" laying across the top, bolted to the top of each post.
> > Additionally, between each pair of posts (except doorways), two rails
> > (3"-4") will run across at 1' and 3' held in place with mortise and
> > tenion joints. The "roof" will be left open. I don't see any
> > significant weight issues.
> >
> > The wood is cut (not necessarily to length) and stored outside under a
> > tarp. It's been about a week since cutting.
> >
> > Ideally, I would like to leave the bark on. So far, my research
> > indicates that this might not be a good idea. Is there a good sealing
> > material that can be used over the bark?
> >
> > If I have to remove the bark, what are the best methods? What should I
> > use to seal the wood afterward? I'd like to use something
> > environmentally more friendly, as the structure will be surrounded by
> > plantings, and may be vine covered. Winters are mild, but we get a lot
> > of rain.
> >
> > Each post will have a concrete footing with the post attached to it
> > using steel brackets and bolts. Are there better types of screws/bolts
> > to use to attach the bracket to the log post? I don't accidentally
> > want to encourage bottom rot.
> >
> > I don't have access to a kiln, at best I could dry the wood by storing
> > it in my garage for a while. When can I begin assembling a structure
> > like this? does the wood need to dry for a time before it is sealed?
> >
> > Any tips, suggestions, pitfalls to avoid, etc. are appreciated.
>
> First thing, for outdoors air dry would be preferable--if you kiln dry
then
> mill it it's likely to take up moisture and change dimension when you put
> it back outside.
>
> Next, there's a reason that redwood, heart cedar, ipe, pressure-treated
> pine, etc are used for decks--they have very high decay resistance. White
> oak isn't terrible but it's not in that league. Red oak fuhgedaboudid.
> Ditto maple and elm. They don't hold up outdoors in New England, let
along
> Georgia. If you want it to last use one of the decay-resistant species or
> pressure treated lumber or one of the synthetic or semi-synthetic decking
> materials. Or, alternatively, build it like a house with proper concrete
> footings, a waterproof roof, siding, etc, but then it's not going to be
> what I think you're going for.
>
> > Thanks,
> > JIM
>
> --
> --John
> Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
> (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)