I have a Fuji Q4 system that does an excellent job but I have only
sprayed "oil" finishes. I intend to use latex on some large areas.
I've heard of those who use water, windshield washer fluid, floetrol and
other additives to thin latex for spraying but was wondering what the
wisdom here might be.
Is there any consensus?
Thanks for any input.
On 2/19/2015 11:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:57:35 PM UTC-6, Max wrote:
>> I have a Fuji Q4 system that does an excellent job but I have only
>> sprayed "oil" finishes. I intend to use latex on some large areas.
>> I've heard of those who use water, windshield washer fluid, floetrol and
>> other additives to thin latex for spraying but was wondering what the
>> wisdom here might be.
>> Is there any consensus?
>>
>> Thanks for any input.
>
> I used the same Fuji 4 stage for a few years and it is an excellent system with plenty of power to spray latex, some without thinning. My strongest suggestion is to shoot a really "clean" paint, such as Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. Certainly there are others, but their unthinned viscosity makes shooting them easy. You might need to thin depending on humidity, temps, type of paint, etc.
>
> If you thin, ONLY used distilled water, and start at 10%, no more. Do you don't need to try anything tricky, or anything that sounds like you are making some scientific formula for some technical finish. I never kept count of how many gallons I shot through the gun, but ONLY used distilled water to thin latex or waterborne finishes, and only the best grade of recommended thinners for the solvent based finishes. Never had a problem with my guns or finishes doing that.
>
> When shooting latex, use the proper aircap and turn up pressure and open up the pressure on the gun. The best air cap for shooting latex enamels is the 2.0 as seen here:
>
> http://www.fujispray.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/5100-Aircap-set-web.jpg
>
> The best for shooting latex wall paint is the 2.5.
>
> It is worth it to spend the money to get the right air cap, believe me.
>
> Robert
>
Thanks, especially for the tip advice. I have 1.3 and 1.5 tips but I'll
order a 2.0 today.
On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:57:35 PM UTC-6, Max wrote:
> I have a Fuji Q4 system that does an excellent job but I have only=20
> sprayed "oil" finishes. I intend to use latex on some large areas.
> I've heard of those who use water, windshield washer fluid, floetrol and=
=20
> other additives to thin latex for spraying but was wondering what the=20
> wisdom here might be.
> Is there any consensus?
>=20
> Thanks for any input.
I used the same Fuji 4 stage for a few years and it is an excellent system =
with plenty of power to spray latex, some without thinning. My strongest s=
uggestion is to shoot a really "clean" paint, such as Sherwin Williams or B=
enjamin Moore. Certainly there are others, but their unthinned viscosity ma=
kes shooting them easy. You might need to thin depending on humidity, temp=
s, type of paint, etc.
If you thin, ONLY used distilled water, and start at 10%, no more. Do you =
don't need to try anything tricky, or anything that sounds like you are mak=
ing some scientific formula for some technical finish. I never kept count =
of how many gallons I shot through the gun, but ONLY used distilled water t=
o thin latex or waterborne finishes, and only the best grade of recommended=
thinners for the solvent based finishes. Never had a problem with my guns=
or finishes doing that.
When shooting latex, use the proper aircap and turn up pressure and open up=
the pressure on the gun. The best air cap for shooting latex enamels is t=
he 2.0 as seen here:
http://www.fujispray.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/5100-Aircap-set-web.jpg
The best for shooting latex wall paint is the 2.5.
It is worth it to spend the money to get the right air cap, believe me.
Robert