I was, er, commissioned by a friend to build a card table about 5 feet
across. 8 sides, each about 18 inches (broke out the ol' cosine
calculator for that one) long, made of tubafores squared up. My plan
at this point is to gather scrap from my jobsite for a couple of weeks
and make (8) 18"x30" panels, then cut them into accurate triangles and
spline joint them together to make the table top. Then, mortise in
some chip trays and cupholders with the router, slap some poly on it
and call it a day. Simple enough, but I see some potential pitfalls
and in the interest of safety, I figured I'd get some opinions.
I can build a crosscut sled to precisely cut a 22.5 degree angle (see
http://www.turnedwood.com/) but that sled is only for a small piece.
The pieces I want to cut are 30" wide, and without any extension
tables on my table saw, I am wondering how to build a sled to cut a
piece 30" wide. I do have an outfeed table (my workbench) so maybe a
looong sled to hang off the infeed side of the saw?
I don't think I'll need any biscuits or anything to join the pieces
for the individual panels, but I'll need something extra between the
triangles, right? I figured that something to be splines about
1/2"x2". The problem there is that I have a wobble dado (don't
ask--came with the saw) that is, in my opinion, dubious at best,
dangerous at worst. Cutting a half-inch by one mortise seems like a
lot of wood to hog out with a wobble dado.
This project will be stretching my skills a bit, and the finished
product doesn't have to look great, but better is always better. Any
help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
-Phil Crow
In article <[email protected]>,
Phil Crow <[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] (Robert Bonomi) wrote in message
>news:<[email protected]>...
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> Phil Crow <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >I was, er, commissioned by a friend to build a card table about 5 feet
>> >across. 8 sides, each about 18 inches (broke out the ol' cosine
>> >calculator for that one) long, made of tubafores squared up.
>>
>> Is it supposed to be 60" from the middle of one flat across to the
>> other side, or 60" from corner to corner?
>>
>> For a 60" corner-to-corner dimension, my CAD program says 22-15/16" for the
>> side dimension.
>>
>> For a 60" mid-side-to-mid-side dimension, my CAD program says 64.94" corner-
>> to-corner, and 24.85" for each of the 8 sides.
>>
>> I only get about 43-1/2" mid-side-to-mid-side, and 47" corner-to-corner,
>> given an 18" side length.
>>
>> Suggest you double-check the dimensions, before starting construction. <grin>
>>
>D'oh! You know, you're exactly right, as my mockup told me yesterday!
>
>> I'd do it the 'lazy' way.
>>
>> Make the top in fourths -- *not* eighths.
>>
>> you can get 2 'fourths' out of a 4'x4' section of ply. or the entire
>> top out of a full sheet.
>>
>> Construction is especially easy, if you can go a little bigger than 60".
>> Using 48"x48" squares will result in a 68" table. if you really want
>> 60", use trim to 42-1/2" square before proceeding further
>>
>> Now, make a precise corner-to-corner cut of each square.
>
>Using one half-sheet of plywood, does this leave me with four 45-45-90
>triangles with one four foot side?
You get 2 triangles out of 1 4'x4' piece; each of the pieces has _two_ 4'
sides. And a long-side diagonal that is about 68". (You cut on only one
of the diagonals of each 4x4 piece.)
That's why you need _2_ 4'x4' squares -- to get all 4 'fourths'. :)
>> Make sure that the 4 resulting pieces are _exactly_ the same size. trim
>> as needed.
>>
>> Next, measure from the 'mid-point' on the diagonal, to the opposite corner.
>> and lay out that same measure down each of the sides, starting from that
>> same corner.
>>
>> Rip at that point, parallel to the other side of the square corner.
>> Two such cuts for each of the 4 pieces.
>>
>If I have the triangles, am I cutting a little triangle off the corner
>of the big (4' side) triangle? I just tried it with a piece of paper,
>and I think that's what you mean.
Yup. the cuts are parallel to the long side.
Think of a stop-sign. With a horizontal and a vertical center-line drawn on.
Extend those centerlines out well past the edge of the sign. And extend
the 'diagonal' edges of the sign until they meet those extended centerlines.
It should now be _real_ obvious how the design works. <grin>
>> Note: These cuts are all to exactly the same dimension. Set the saw fence
>> *once*, and make _all_ the cuts.
>>
>> Note: if the measurement is a bit off, you end up with one set of four sides
>> that are a little longer/shorter than the other set of four. Each side
>> in each set of four _is_ exactly the same size, and they alternate as
>> you go around the table. It still 'looks good', even if it isn't
>> a perfect octagon. (This kind of design I _like_ -- screw it up and
>> it still looks good.:)
>>
>> Lastly, lay out the 4 pieces, with the square corners touching in the middle.
>>
>> Voila! an octagon table top.
>>
>> BTW, the 'lazy' way to support/stabilize the top, is to make another set
>> of pieces -- made exactly the same way as the first ones, but starting
>> with squares that are about a foot smaller. Line them up 'center on center',
>> But with the edges of the 4 pieces turned 45 degrees. Now the joint in
>> one layer is in the middle of the solid piece in the other layer.
>
>You see, that's why I keep coming back here. The primary purpose of
>the thing was to do it for free,
HAH! Wait til you get the bill for my 'architectural services'. <*BIG* grin>
> but in light of the fact that I can
>make THAT table top in an hour may force me to tell my buddy to apply
>crowbar to wallet.
As you probably noticed, there are only three 'critical' features to the
design:
1) The 90 degree corners do have to be exactly 90 degrees. Luckily you
_can_, in general, trust the 'factory' corner on full sheets of ply or
other sheet goods for that.
2) The edges that join to make those 90 degree corners must be straight.
Again, one can generally trust the factory edge for this.
3) When you trim off those 'triangle' corners from the big triangle pieces,
you have to have to cut to the _same_ width for all the pieces. So you
set the fence *once* to make all the cuts, and you get that match
'automatically'.
As it happens, _none_ of the measurements/cuts *you* make has to be 'precise'
to any dimensional measurement. Everything _works_, even if you are 'a bit'
off. This is the *true* measure of a 'lazy' design -- even if you build it
sloppy, things still fit right.
Hi Phil,
Robert has it right. AND an 18" player station is way way too small unless it's
for children. Most of the tables we make now are about 25" to the side. You might
want to consider some way of adding a "feature" to compensate for your angles
being 22.4 or 22.7*. It's amazing how big the gap gets when you multiply that
error by eight. Cheers, JG
Robert Bonomi wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Phil Crow <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I was, er, commissioned by a friend to build a card table about 5 feet
> >across. 8 sides, each about 18 inches (broke out the ol' cosine
> >calculator for that one) long, made of tubafores squared up.
>
> Is it supposed to be 60" from the middle of one flat across to the
> other side, or 60" from corner to corner?
>
> For a 60" corner-to-corner dimension, my CAD program says 22-15/16" for the
> side dimension.
>
> For a 60" mid-side-to-mid-side dimension, my CAD program says 64.94" corner-
> to-corner, and 24.85" for each of the 8 sides.
>
> I only get about 43-1/2" mid-side-to-mid-side, and 47" corner-to-corner,
> given an 18" side length.
>
> Suggest you double-check the dimensions, before starting construction. <grin>
>
> > My plan
> >at this point is to gather scrap from my jobsite for a couple of weeks
> >and make (8) 18"x30" panels, then cut them into accurate triangles and
> >spline joint them together to make the table top. Then, mortise in
> >some chip trays and cupholders with the router, slap some poly on it
> >and call it a day. Simple enough, but I see some potential pitfalls
> >and in the interest of safety, I figured I'd get some opinions.
> >
> >I can build a crosscut sled to precisely cut a 22.5 degree angle (see
> >http://www.turnedwood.com/) but that sled is only for a small piece.
> >The pieces I want to cut are 30" wide, and without any extension
> >tables on my table saw, I am wondering how to build a sled to cut a
> >piece 30" wide. I do have an outfeed table (my workbench) so maybe a
> >looong sled to hang off the infeed side of the saw?
> >
> >I don't think I'll need any biscuits or anything to join the pieces
> >for the individual panels, but I'll need something extra between the
> >triangles, right? I figured that something to be splines about
> >1/2"x2". The problem there is that I have a wobble dado (don't
> >ask--came with the saw) that is, in my opinion, dubious at best,
> >dangerous at worst. Cutting a half-inch by one mortise seems like a
> >lot of wood to hog out with a wobble dado.
> >
> >This project will be stretching my skills a bit, and the finished
> >product doesn't have to look great, but better is always better. Any
> >help would be appreciated.
>
> I'd do it the 'lazy' way.
>
> Make the top in fourths -- *not* eighths.
>
> you can get 2 'fourths' out of a 4'x4' section of ply. or the entire
> top out of a full sheet.
>
> Construction is especially easy, if you can go a little bigger than 60".
> Using 48"x48" squares will result in a 68" table. if you really want
> 60", use trim to 42-1/2" square before proceeding further
>
> Now, make a precise corner-to-corner cut of each square.
>
> Make sure that the 4 resulting pieces are _exactly_ the same size. trim
> as needed.
>
> Next, measure from the 'mid-point' on the diagonal, to the opposite corner.
> and lay out that same measure down each of the sides, starting from that
> same corner.
>
> Rip at that point, parallel to the other side of the square corner.
> Two such cuts for each of the 4 pieces.
>
> Note: These cuts are all to exactly the same dimension. Set the saw fence
> *once*, and make _all_ the cuts.
>
> Note: if the measurement is a bit off, you end up with one set of four sides
> that are a little longer/shorter than the other set of four. Each side
> in each set of four _is_ exactly the same size, and they alternate as
> you go around the table. It still 'looks good', even if it isn't
> a perfect octagon. (This kind of design I _like_ -- screw it up and
> it still looks good.:)
>
> Lastly, lay out the 4 pieces, with the square corners touching in the middle.
>
> Voila! an octagon table top.
>
> BTW, the 'lazy' way to support/stabilize the top, is to make another set
> of pieces -- made exactly the same way as the first ones, but starting
> with squares that are about a foot smaller. Line them up 'center on center',
> But with the edges of the 4 pieces turned 45 degrees. Now the joint in
> one layer is in the middle of the solid piece in the other layer.
On 6 Sep 2004 11:46:43 -0700, [email protected] (Phil Crow)
wrote:
>and make (8) 18"x30" panels, then cut them into accurate triangles and
>spline joint them together to make the table top.
Make two half tables, then joint the edges, then join them into a
table. Hopefully this won't do anything, but if there has been any
inaccuracy in the angles it'll avoid awkward gaps in the table. If
you're doing an ocatagon or a dodecagon, it might even be worth truing
the quarters to 90°.
For tubafours, I'd probably lay it out with a pencil, clamp a guide
down and cut it with a handheld saw.
>I am wondering how to build a sled to cut a
>piece 30" wide.
Sounds easy enough, if you have a saw table with double slots on one
side. Just make sure the runners are long enough to allow the sled to
pass right across the blade without coming adrift.
If your table has a slot on each side, then you can either make a
double runner sled (which will have to be huge) or rely on a single
slot to guide it.
>Cutting a half-inch by one mortise seems like a
>lot of wood to hog out with a wobble dado.
If it's a spline slot, saw it out with a plain blade. Cut the side
walls, then a couple of cuts in the middle. The rest will come out
easily with a chisel.
You could also make three sawcuts, then take 1/4" out at a time with
the wobble saw. As it's only a shallow slot, then it's no big deal
(although a single pass cut is more than I'd want to do with a
wobbler)
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
DAGS on how to build a poker table - there are a ton of sites that will walk
you thru it step by step.
"Phil Crow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was, er, commissioned by a friend to build a card table about 5 feet
> across. 8 sides, each about 18 inches (broke out the ol' cosine
> calculator for that one) long, made of tubafores squared up. My plan
> at this point is to gather scrap from my jobsite for a couple of weeks
> and make (8) 18"x30" panels, then cut them into accurate triangles and
> spline joint them together to make the table top. Then, mortise in
> some chip trays and cupholders with the router, slap some poly on it
> and call it a day. Simple enough, but I see some potential pitfalls
> and in the interest of safety, I figured I'd get some opinions.
>
> I can build a crosscut sled to precisely cut a 22.5 degree angle (see
> http://www.turnedwood.com/) but that sled is only for a small piece.
> The pieces I want to cut are 30" wide, and without any extension
> tables on my table saw, I am wondering how to build a sled to cut a
> piece 30" wide. I do have an outfeed table (my workbench) so maybe a
> looong sled to hang off the infeed side of the saw?
>
> I don't think I'll need any biscuits or anything to join the pieces
> for the individual panels, but I'll need something extra between the
> triangles, right? I figured that something to be splines about
> 1/2"x2". The problem there is that I have a wobble dado (don't
> ask--came with the saw) that is, in my opinion, dubious at best,
> dangerous at worst. Cutting a half-inch by one mortise seems like a
> lot of wood to hog out with a wobble dado.
>
> This project will be stretching my skills a bit, and the finished
> product doesn't have to look great, but better is always better. Any
> help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Phil Crow
Phil Crow wrote:
>> I was, er, commissioned by a friend to build a card table about 5
>> feet across. 8 sides, each about 18 inches (broke out the ol' cosine
>> calculator for that one) long, made of tubafores squared up. My plan
>> at this point is to gather scrap from my jobsite for a couple of
>> weeks and make (8) 18"x30" panels, then cut them into accurate
>> triangles and spline joint them together to make the table top.
>> Then, mortise in some chip trays and cupholders with the router,
>> slap some poly on it and call it a day. Simple enough, but I see
>> some potential pitfalls and in the interest of safety, I figured I'd
>> get some opinions.
>>
>> I can build a crosscut sled to precisely cut a 22.5 degree angle (see
>> http://www.turnedwood.com/) but that sled is only for a small piece.
>> The pieces I want to cut are 30" wide, and without any extension
>> tables on my table saw, I am wondering how to build a sled to cut a
>> piece 30" wide. I do have an outfeed table (my workbench) so maybe a
>> looong sled to hang off the infeed side of the saw?
>>
>> I don't think I'll need any biscuits or anything to join the pieces
>> for the individual panels, but I'll need something extra between the
>> triangles, right? I figured that something to be splines about
>> 1/2"x2". The problem there is that I have a wobble dado (don't
>> ask--came with the saw) that is, in my opinion, dubious at best,
>> dangerous at worst. Cutting a half-inch by one mortise seems like a
>> lot of wood to hog out with a wobble dado.
>>
>> This project will be stretching my skills a bit, and the finished
>> product doesn't have to look great, but better is always better. Any
>> help would be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Phil Crow
While waiting for someone who can help you I thought I'd toss in this
oddity: while looking at some old furniture I saw a gaming table that had
a second "table" underneath with dividers between the each section that
separated the section that would belong to each individual playing at the
table. These sections looked big enough for a glass of some kind of drink
and a play to lay down your cards or tiles where they wouldn't be seen by
others. Seems like you could put your snack there, too, instead of having
everything all over the table or on trays that stuck out all over the
place. Nope, I have no idea of the construction, I was just too impressed
with how cool it looked.
Josie
"Phil Crow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was, er, commissioned by a friend to build a card table about 5 feet
> across. 8 sides, each about 18 inches (broke out the ol' cosine
> calculator for that one) long, made of tubafores squared up. My plan
> at this point is to gather scrap from my jobsite for a couple of weeks
> and make (8) 18"x30" panels, then cut them into accurate triangles and
> spline joint them together to make the table top. Then, mortise in
> some chip trays and cupholders with the router, slap some poly on it
> and call it a day. Simple enough, but I see some potential pitfalls
> and in the interest of safety, I figured I'd get some opinions.
>
> I can build a crosscut sled to precisely cut a 22.5 degree angle (see
> http://www.turnedwood.com/) but that sled is only for a small piece.
> The pieces I want to cut are 30" wide, and without any extension
> tables on my table saw, I am wondering how to build a sled to cut a
> piece 30" wide. I do have an outfeed table (my workbench) so maybe a
> looong sled to hang off the infeed side of the saw?
>
> I don't think I'll need any biscuits or anything to join the pieces
> for the individual panels, but I'll need something extra between the
> triangles, right? I figured that something to be splines about
> 1/2"x2". The problem there is that I have a wobble dado (don't
> ask--came with the saw) that is, in my opinion, dubious at best,
> dangerous at worst. Cutting a half-inch by one mortise seems like a
> lot of wood to hog out with a wobble dado.
>
> This project will be stretching my skills a bit, and the finished
> product doesn't have to look great, but better is always better. Any
> help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Phil Crow
I made a couple of octagonal planters recently, so I've got some experience.
I know you want to get the wood cheap, but cutting all those pieces and
getting them to line up is going to be a bitch. I probably stating the
obvious here, but an octagon is just a square with the corners cut off. I
believe baltic birch comes in 5*5 sheets, so that would give you your 60"
across. For an octagon 60" across the sides would be 24.85" (Width /2.414).
So measure 17 9/16" from the corners and draw a 45 to the opposite side of
your sheet. You'll end up with the four triangles to cut off your sheet.
Double check your 8 sides to make sure they all measure the same.
In article <[email protected]>,
Phil Crow <[email protected]> wrote:
>I was, er, commissioned by a friend to build a card table about 5 feet
>across. 8 sides, each about 18 inches (broke out the ol' cosine
>calculator for that one) long, made of tubafores squared up.
Is it supposed to be 60" from the middle of one flat across to the
other side, or 60" from corner to corner?
For a 60" corner-to-corner dimension, my CAD program says 22-15/16" for the
side dimension.
For a 60" mid-side-to-mid-side dimension, my CAD program says 64.94" corner-
to-corner, and 24.85" for each of the 8 sides.
I only get about 43-1/2" mid-side-to-mid-side, and 47" corner-to-corner,
given an 18" side length.
Suggest you double-check the dimensions, before starting construction. <grin>
> My plan
>at this point is to gather scrap from my jobsite for a couple of weeks
>and make (8) 18"x30" panels, then cut them into accurate triangles and
>spline joint them together to make the table top. Then, mortise in
>some chip trays and cupholders with the router, slap some poly on it
>and call it a day. Simple enough, but I see some potential pitfalls
>and in the interest of safety, I figured I'd get some opinions.
>
>I can build a crosscut sled to precisely cut a 22.5 degree angle (see
>http://www.turnedwood.com/) but that sled is only for a small piece.
>The pieces I want to cut are 30" wide, and without any extension
>tables on my table saw, I am wondering how to build a sled to cut a
>piece 30" wide. I do have an outfeed table (my workbench) so maybe a
>looong sled to hang off the infeed side of the saw?
>
>I don't think I'll need any biscuits or anything to join the pieces
>for the individual panels, but I'll need something extra between the
>triangles, right? I figured that something to be splines about
>1/2"x2". The problem there is that I have a wobble dado (don't
>ask--came with the saw) that is, in my opinion, dubious at best,
>dangerous at worst. Cutting a half-inch by one mortise seems like a
>lot of wood to hog out with a wobble dado.
>
>This project will be stretching my skills a bit, and the finished
>product doesn't have to look great, but better is always better. Any
>help would be appreciated.
I'd do it the 'lazy' way.
Make the top in fourths -- *not* eighths.
you can get 2 'fourths' out of a 4'x4' section of ply. or the entire
top out of a full sheet.
Construction is especially easy, if you can go a little bigger than 60".
Using 48"x48" squares will result in a 68" table. if you really want
60", use trim to 42-1/2" square before proceeding further
Now, make a precise corner-to-corner cut of each square.
Make sure that the 4 resulting pieces are _exactly_ the same size. trim
as needed.
Next, measure from the 'mid-point' on the diagonal, to the opposite corner.
and lay out that same measure down each of the sides, starting from that
same corner.
Rip at that point, parallel to the other side of the square corner.
Two such cuts for each of the 4 pieces.
Note: These cuts are all to exactly the same dimension. Set the saw fence
*once*, and make _all_ the cuts.
Note: if the measurement is a bit off, you end up with one set of four sides
that are a little longer/shorter than the other set of four. Each side
in each set of four _is_ exactly the same size, and they alternate as
you go around the table. It still 'looks good', even if it isn't
a perfect octagon. (This kind of design I _like_ -- screw it up and
it still looks good.:)
Lastly, lay out the 4 pieces, with the square corners touching in the middle.
Voila! an octagon table top.
BTW, the 'lazy' way to support/stabilize the top, is to make another set
of pieces -- made exactly the same way as the first ones, but starting
with squares that are about a foot smaller. Line them up 'center on center',
But with the edges of the 4 pieces turned 45 degrees. Now the joint in
one layer is in the middle of the solid piece in the other layer.
[email protected] (Robert Bonomi) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Phil Crow <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I was, er, commissioned by a friend to build a card table about 5 feet
> >across. 8 sides, each about 18 inches (broke out the ol' cosine
> >calculator for that one) long, made of tubafores squared up.
>
> Is it supposed to be 60" from the middle of one flat across to the
> other side, or 60" from corner to corner?
>
> For a 60" corner-to-corner dimension, my CAD program says 22-15/16" for the
> side dimension.
>
> For a 60" mid-side-to-mid-side dimension, my CAD program says 64.94" corner-
> to-corner, and 24.85" for each of the 8 sides.
>
> I only get about 43-1/2" mid-side-to-mid-side, and 47" corner-to-corner,
> given an 18" side length.
>
> Suggest you double-check the dimensions, before starting construction. <grin>
>
D'oh! You know, you're exactly right, as my mockup told me yesterday!
>
> I'd do it the 'lazy' way.
>
> Make the top in fourths -- *not* eighths.
>
> you can get 2 'fourths' out of a 4'x4' section of ply. or the entire
> top out of a full sheet.
>
> Construction is especially easy, if you can go a little bigger than 60".
> Using 48"x48" squares will result in a 68" table. if you really want
> 60", use trim to 42-1/2" square before proceeding further
>
> Now, make a precise corner-to-corner cut of each square.
>
Using one half-sheet of plywood, does this leave me with four 45-45-90
triangles with one four foot side?
> Make sure that the 4 resulting pieces are _exactly_ the same size. trim
> as needed.
>
> Next, measure from the 'mid-point' on the diagonal, to the opposite corner.
> and lay out that same measure down each of the sides, starting from that
> same corner.
>
> Rip at that point, parallel to the other side of the square corner.
> Two such cuts for each of the 4 pieces.
>
If I have the triangles, am I cutting a little triangle off the corner
of the big (4' side) triangle? I just tried it with a piece of paper,
and I think that's what you mean.
> Note: These cuts are all to exactly the same dimension. Set the saw fence
> *once*, and make _all_ the cuts.
>
> Note: if the measurement is a bit off, you end up with one set of four sides
> that are a little longer/shorter than the other set of four. Each side
> in each set of four _is_ exactly the same size, and they alternate as
> you go around the table. It still 'looks good', even if it isn't
> a perfect octagon. (This kind of design I _like_ -- screw it up and
> it still looks good.:)
>
> Lastly, lay out the 4 pieces, with the square corners touching in the middle.
>
> Voila! an octagon table top.
>
> BTW, the 'lazy' way to support/stabilize the top, is to make another set
> of pieces -- made exactly the same way as the first ones, but starting
> with squares that are about a foot smaller. Line them up 'center on center',
> But with the edges of the 4 pieces turned 45 degrees. Now the joint in
> one layer is in the middle of the solid piece in the other layer.
You see, that's why I keep coming back here. The primary purpose of
the thing was to do it for free, but in light of the fact that I can
make THAT table top in an hour may force me to tell my buddy to apply
crowbar to wallet. Either way, I'll post pics when we get it
finished.
Thanks.
-Phil Crow
Snip
>
> HAH! Wait til you get the bill for my 'architectural services'. <*BIG* grin>
>
> > but in light of the fact that I can
> >make THAT table top in an hour may force me to tell my buddy to apply
> >crowbar to wallet.
>
> As you probably noticed, there are only three 'critical' features to the
> design:
> 1) The 90 degree corners do have to be exactly 90 degrees. Luckily you
> _can_, in general, trust the 'factory' corner on full sheets of ply or
> other sheet goods for that.
> 2) The edges that join to make those 90 degree corners must be straight.
> Again, one can generally trust the factory edge for this.
> 3) When you trim off those 'triangle' corners from the big triangle pieces,
> you have to have to cut to the _same_ width for all the pieces. So you
> set the fence *once* to make all the cuts, and you get that match
> 'automatically'.
> As it happens, _none_ of the measurements/cuts *you* make has to be 'precise'
> to any dimensional measurement. Everything _works_, even if you are 'a bit'
> off. This is the *true* measure of a 'lazy' design -- even if you build it
> sloppy, things still fit right.