Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to start
planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence or buy
one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either side. I
was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead on flat
and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
Thanks
Chris
cbodnar <[email protected]> wrote in news:0119214c-e9c3-4d3e-b45c-
[email protected]:
> Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to start
> planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence or buy
> one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either side. I
> was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead on flat
> and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
I recently made a miter saw station, complete with pineywood drawers to
hold stuff. The miter saw was placed with the right edge near the
halfway point of the table, so there's 2' on one side of the saw and 4'
on the other.
For repeat cuts, I simply screw a block into the top of the table. I've
got a 4' track, but haven't installed it yet.
I'm still using the fence that came with the saw, and it works well. To
make a cut, just be sure the piece is tight up against the fence and
everything else works itself out. A longer fence is /not/ necessary.
One more tip: build your table so it supports the entire saw capacity.
Mine aligns the front of the saw base with the front of the table, and
that creates problems cutting wider pieces.
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
You are correct sir. Yes I use the TS for "most" cross cuts but it's
not an absolute. I will tune up the miter to make precise cuts when
needed. It is capable. I typically create a fresh zero clearance
insert, put on the good blade, dial in the cut angles, etc. Once it is
dialed in it is pretty good for the day but I handle it pretty rough
the rest of the time so the setup isn't something I want to rely on
unless it has been cheked and tuned recently.
On May 11, 11:15=A0am, [email protected] (Derek Lyons) wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >My thoughts on a miter saw are using it mostly for cutoff for near
> >lengths and non-critical miters, etc. If I am building precise
> >furniture or other items I try to use the TS for most of cross cuts so
> >I am not so critical on the fence for the miter.
>
> So how do you square the ends of a long board? =A0Easy on a mitre saw,
> seems a bit difficult on a table saw when you have to both move the
> board and hold it square.
>
> D.
> --
> Touch-twice life. Eat. Drink. Laugh.
>
> http://derekl1963.livejournal.com/
>
> -Resolved: To be more temperate in my postings.
> Oct 5th, 2004 JDL
"cbodnar" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to start
> planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence or buy
> one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either side. I
> was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead on flat
> and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
You'll save yourself a lot of time and anguish by buying one in my opinion.
There's a few types on the market that are generally popular. Biesemeyer and
Unifence are two of them. They both lock down on the front rail only. A
third type of fence that's not as popular, but not all that rare either is a
fence that locks down both sides of the table. It's called an Excalibur
which I happen to own and use. I'm happy with its operation.
You can read a comparison about the first two here.
http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/UnifenceVersusBessy/unifenceversusbessy.html
A little pricey but very very cool. More than I need for the home shop
but clearly a good consideration for the production shop.
Thanks for sharing.
On May 11, 5:11=A0pm, Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
> On May 11, 9:08=A0am, cbodnar <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> > station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to start
> > planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence or buy
> > one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either side. I
> > was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead on flat
> > and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
>
> I've used the Glide Stop fromhttp://www.jadawley.comin a few
> different applications and have been very happy with it. =A0Very
> accurate, and pretty beefy too.
>
> JP
Derek Lyons wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My thoughts on a miter saw are using it mostly for cutoff for near
>> lengths and non-critical miters, etc. If I am building precise
>> furniture or other items I try to use the TS for most of cross cuts so
>> I am not so critical on the fence for the miter.
>
> So how do you square the ends of a long board? Easy on a mitre saw,
> seems a bit difficult on a table saw when you have to both move the
> board and hold it square.
Long boards /are/ a PIA on the table saw. From the days before I had a
table saw, I made a crosscut guide for a portable circular saw that had
a fence for the board being cut and another to guide the saw. I'll put a
photo on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking so you can see what the
"improved" version looks like.
These days I cut long boards to length by throwing 'em on the CNC and
routing both ends to +/-0.0015" accuracy :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Lee Michaels wrote:
> "Morris Dovey" wrote
>> These days I cut long boards to length by throwing 'em on the CNC and
>> routing both ends to +/-0.0015" accuracy :)
>>
>> --
> Ahhhhhh...., the Morris Dovey CNC cut off saw/router. NOT portable or to
> be thrown into the back of a pickup.
Would 20' capacity and under 50# qualify as "portable"? If so, it'd be
easy enough to build a portable CNC cut-off machine, but why bother?
Now if I could just come up with a CNC 2x4 *straightener* :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>My thoughts on a miter saw are using it mostly for cutoff for near
>lengths and non-critical miters, etc. If I am building precise
>furniture or other items I try to use the TS for most of cross cuts so
>I am not so critical on the fence for the miter.
So how do you square the ends of a long board? Easy on a mitre saw,
seems a bit difficult on a table saw when you have to both move the
board and hold it square.
D.
--
Touch-twice life. Eat. Drink. Laugh.
http://derekl1963.livejournal.com/
-Resolved: To be more temperate in my postings.
Oct 5th, 2004 JDL
On May 11, 9:08=A0am, cbodnar <[email protected]> wrote:
> Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to start
> planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence or buy
> one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either side. I
> was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead on flat
> and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
I've used the Glide Stop from http://www.jadawley.com in a few
different applications and have been very happy with it. Very
accurate, and pretty beefy too.
JP
No experience with such fences but do have an opinion\input... as
always.
I'm getting ready to build a station for my slider miter. I am
planning on 8 feet on the in-feed side and 6 feet on the out-feed with
2 feet in the middle for the saw. I will use 3/4" MDF. I'll build an L-
shaped affair with gussets for stability. It will sit on top of the
table with slots in the base for front to back alignment. On the out-
feed side I'll make the fence double thick. The back piece will be
shorter by the depth of an aluminum T-slot channel so it can carry a
flip stop. The front piece will have a ruler applied and horizontial
slots so I can adjust the fence to set the ruler.
My thoughts on a miter saw are using it mostly for cutoff for near
lengths and non-critical miters, etc. If I am building precise
furniture or other items I try to use the TS for most of cross cuts so
I am not so critical on the fence for the miter.
Flip stop: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D21332&filter=3Dflip%20=
stop
On May 11, 6:08=A0am, cbodnar <[email protected]> wrote:
> Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to start
> planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence or buy
> one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either side. I
> was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead on flat
> and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I made this stand. It has served well for many years. I did design a stop
>on the left hand side that can tip out of the way to be able to deal with
>warped or twisted stock. I designed it with 2 feet on the right, the saw,
>the rest available on the left.
>
> http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/job_site_miter_saw_stand.gif
>
> --
Thanks for sharing.
__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4080 (20090515) __________
The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
http://www.eset.com
I made this stand. It has served well for many years. I did
design a stop on the left hand side that can tip out of the way to
be able to deal with warped or twisted stock. I designed it with
2 feet on the right, the saw, the rest available on the left.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/job_site_miter_saw_stand.gif
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"cbodnar" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to
> start
> planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence
> or buy
> one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either
> side. I
> was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead
> on flat
> and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
"cbodnar" wrote:
> Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to start
> planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence or
> buy
> one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either side. I
> was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead on
> flat
> and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
A few years ago, Norm had a miter saw station project on NYW.
Might want to take a look.
Lew
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
My apologies. I missed the fact this was a miter saw station. You can forget
everything I've said. I was thinking tablesaw when I replied.
Interesting.
My plan is to have two tables, one at each side. Then I'll hang a
platform for the saw in between them. The platform will be 1" thick
(or thicker) plywood with a 2x4 running across the front and back on
the underside that laps over the legs of the two tables. This will
attach to the table with vertical slots in the table legs so I can
adjust the height initially and when ever needed. Then the platform
will have slots for the saw hold downs so I can adjust the saw front-
to-back to align with the fence system..
On May 17, 5:29=A0am, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I made this stand. =A0It has served well for many years. =A0I did
> design a stop on the left hand side that can tip out of the way to
> be able to deal with warped or twisted stock. =A0I designed it with
> 2 feet on the right, the saw, the rest available on the left.
>
> http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/job_site_miter_saw_st...
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG =A0(remove the sevens)
> [email protected]
>
> "cbodnar" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> > station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to
> > start
> > planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence
> > or buy
> > one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either
> > side. I
> > was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead
> > on flat
> > and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
>
> > Thanks
>
> > Chris- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
cbodnar wrote:
> Anyone using an after market aluminum fence on their miter saw
> station? I've seen a few advertised in magazines. I'm going to start
> planning mine and wondered if it's better to make my own fence or buy
> one? I'd like something that is at least 60" long on either side. I
> was thinking with a purchased fence, it would at least be dead on flat
> and I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the project.
To the first question, "no" personally...
As to the other, I'd ask for what end purpose you're after.
I've never seen the need for an extended fence for the miter saw--an
extended support if not in fixed bench in shop, yes; longer fence
itself, no.
Reason for the above is that at least for me the fence is long enough
for short pieces that have precise needs such as for furniture
mouldings, etc., and for the long pieces such as architectural moulding,
etc., there's sufficient flexibility in the pieces themselves that
getting sufficient accuracy just isn't a problem.(*)
What you're up to and how that fits obviously I don't know... :)
(*) I do make and use blocks and other fixtures to set proper angles of
things like crown, etc. I just haven't ever found that I needed a fence
of additional length as long as the end wasn't flopping off the end of
the bench.
--
DanG wrote:
> I made this stand. It has served well for many years. I did
> design a stop on the left hand side that can tip out of the way to
> be able to deal with warped or twisted stock. I designed it with
> 2 feet on the right, the saw, the rest available on the left.
>
> http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/job_site_miter_saw_stand.gif
>
Nice illustration.
However, I'm confused by measurement "A."
Assuming the material is 3/4" plywood, shouldn't "A" be minus 3/4"
instead of plus?
Maybe I'm just having a brain cramp. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply