I have a DW746 TS and am thinking of getting a link belt. What size belt
do I need? This may seem like a stupid question (and may even be one), --
after all, why don't I just measure the belt I have? Well, IME actual
measurements for some things do not match their designated size. (Insert
your joke, here.) I checked the DW website and the manual and could not
find a size mentioned, just the part number. Anyone know the answer or how
to discern it? (Grizzly sells 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 inch belts. HF sells on
1/2 inch.)
As for the link belt itself, once I determine the width, how do I determine
proper length? Do I have to loosen the motor to get the belt on? If so,
will that require a complete re-alignment of the saw? I googled this topic
and all I found was pros and cons of the link belt, not install info.
(Maybe I missed it.) TIA. -- Igor
The belt is held on by gravity - lift motor, remove belt, install new belt,
lower motor. No adjustments or tools required. The motor is suspended on the
belt - the weight of the motor gives it tension.
I got a 1/2" universal link belt and just removed links to get to the same
diameter as the original V-belt.
Another note on the DW746 - I just wired mine for 220V. WOW - what a
difference!
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a DW746 TS and am thinking of getting a link belt. What size belt
> do I need? This may seem like a stupid question (and may even be one), --
> after all, why don't I just measure the belt I have? Well, IME actual
> measurements for some things do not match their designated size. (Insert
> your joke, here.) I checked the DW website and the manual and could not
> find a size mentioned, just the part number. Anyone know the answer or
how
> to discern it? (Grizzly sells 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 inch belts. HF sells on
> 1/2 inch.)
>
> As for the link belt itself, once I determine the width, how do I
determine
> proper length? Do I have to loosen the motor to get the belt on? If so,
> will that require a complete re-alignment of the saw? I googled this
topic
> and all I found was pros and cons of the link belt, not install info.
> (Maybe I missed it.) TIA. -- Igor
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 13:14:05 -0400, "gw" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The belt is held on by gravity - lift motor, remove belt, install new belt,
>lower motor. No adjustments or tools required. The motor is suspended on the
>belt - the weight of the motor gives it tension.
>
>I got a 1/2" universal link belt and just removed links to get to the same
>diameter as the original V-belt.
>
>Another note on the DW746 - I just wired mine for 220V. WOW - what a
>difference!
>
gw -- Thanks for that step-by-step. Any details you can offer on the
improvement now w/ 220v? I could do that but it would take my last spaces
in the subpanel. So, details would help me justify that -- or getting a
larger subpanel. Again, thanks -- Igor
Better than I said it. I'd only add, wire is cheap. When running a drop
to your shop or to an individual tool, going overboard on wire gauge is
an insignificant expense. Use heavy wire.
bob g.
Gary W wrote:
> "igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 13:14:05 -0400, "gw" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>The belt is held on by gravity - lift motor, remove belt, install new
>>>belt,
>>>lower motor. No adjustments or tools required. The motor is suspended on
>>>the
>>>belt - the weight of the motor gives it tension.
>>>
>>>I got a 1/2" universal link belt and just removed links to get to the same
>>>diameter as the original V-belt.
>>>
>>>Another note on the DW746 - I just wired mine for 220V. WOW - what a
>>>difference!
>>>
>>
>>gw -- Thanks for that step-by-step. Any details you can offer on the
>>improvement now w/ 220v? I could do that but it would take my last spaces
>>in the subpanel. So, details would help me justify that -- or getting a
>>larger subpanel. Again, thanks -- Igor
>
>
> I haven't butchered too much wood yet, but here are my observations:
>
> 110V - power on, blade takes 2-3 seconds to come up to speed
> 220V - full speed, instantly. It also makes more of a "whooshing" noise, so
> that must be better. : )
>
> 110V - some slowdown of blade and burning on 4/4 hardwood
> 220V - cuts like buttah
>
> 110V - pulls 15A under full load, dims lights, does not get along well with
> DC running, occasionally pops the 15A breaker.
> 220V - 7.5A draw on a 20A circuit. This is a biggie with only 2 110V
> circuits in the gar^H^H^H^shop.
>
> The instructions for rewiring are on the motor itself. You'll need a couple
> of wire nuts, and a new power cord. I used 15' of 12/3 stranded copper. It's
> rated for 20A @220V. You could probably get away with the 14/3 that's
> already there, but I needed the extra length.
>
>
What I've done is kind of Rube Goldberg so I don't know if I should
advocate but... I'm one guy, I can't use more than one tool and the
dust collector at a time. I wired one breaker to a dryer outlet next to
the panel. I plug a ten gauge extension into this outlet. On the other
end of the "extension cord" is a board with a number of 110/220 outlets
as well as an outlet for my arc welder. All my tool capable of 110-220
snap on quicker and bog less under load than they did with their
original factory supplied cords going into a 110 outlet wired with 12 ga
wire direct to the panel... what the electrician provided. A 1 1/2
horse motor is not going to give you what a 3 horse motor can. Give
that 1 1/2 horse motor a fighting chance, though, by at least giving it
all the juice it can use.
bob g.
igor wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 13:14:05 -0400, "gw" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>The belt is held on by gravity - lift motor, remove belt, install new belt,
>>lower motor. No adjustments or tools required. The motor is suspended on the
>>belt - the weight of the motor gives it tension.
>>
>>I got a 1/2" universal link belt and just removed links to get to the same
>>diameter as the original V-belt.
>>
>>Another note on the DW746 - I just wired mine for 220V. WOW - what a
>>difference!
>>
>
> gw -- Thanks for that step-by-step. Any details you can offer on the
> improvement now w/ 220v? I could do that but it would take my last spaces
> in the subpanel. So, details would help me justify that -- or getting a
> larger subpanel. Again, thanks -- Igor
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 13:14:05 -0400, "gw" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>The belt is held on by gravity - lift motor, remove belt, install new
>>belt,
>>lower motor. No adjustments or tools required. The motor is suspended on
>>the
>>belt - the weight of the motor gives it tension.
>>
>>I got a 1/2" universal link belt and just removed links to get to the same
>>diameter as the original V-belt.
>>
>>Another note on the DW746 - I just wired mine for 220V. WOW - what a
>>difference!
>>
> gw -- Thanks for that step-by-step. Any details you can offer on the
> improvement now w/ 220v? I could do that but it would take my last spaces
> in the subpanel. So, details would help me justify that -- or getting a
> larger subpanel. Again, thanks -- Igor
I haven't butchered too much wood yet, but here are my observations:
110V - power on, blade takes 2-3 seconds to come up to speed
220V - full speed, instantly. It also makes more of a "whooshing" noise, so
that must be better. : )
110V - some slowdown of blade and burning on 4/4 hardwood
220V - cuts like buttah
110V - pulls 15A under full load, dims lights, does not get along well with
DC running, occasionally pops the 15A breaker.
220V - 7.5A draw on a 20A circuit. This is a biggie with only 2 110V
circuits in the gar^H^H^H^shop.
The instructions for rewiring are on the motor itself. You'll need a couple
of wire nuts, and a new power cord. I used 15' of 12/3 stranded copper. It's
rated for 20A @220V. You could probably get away with the 14/3 that's
already there, but I needed the extra length.
It's been said many times before but...
If you have 220 in your shop and your tools will run on either, don't
waste a minute before converting all such tools to 220. Did it years
ago and enjoy the advantage every day. An either or motor will do just
as well on 110 if the wire is of heavy enough gauge. It virtually never
is heavy enough to give equivalent performance. Spend a few minutes to
get the thing running on 220 and you'll kick yourself for not having
done it sooner.
bob g.
gw wrote:
> The belt is held on by gravity - lift motor, remove belt, install new belt,
> lower motor. No adjustments or tools required. The motor is suspended on the
> belt - the weight of the motor gives it tension.
>
> I got a 1/2" universal link belt and just removed links to get to the same
> diameter as the original V-belt.
>
> Another note on the DW746 - I just wired mine for 220V. WOW - what a
> difference!
>
> "igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I have a DW746 TS and am thinking of getting a link belt. What size belt
>>do I need? This may seem like a stupid question (and may even be one), --
>>after all, why don't I just measure the belt I have? Well, IME actual
>>measurements for some things do not match their designated size. (Insert
>>your joke, here.) I checked the DW website and the manual and could not
>>find a size mentioned, just the part number. Anyone know the answer or
>
> how
>
>>to discern it? (Grizzly sells 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 inch belts. HF sells on
>>1/2 inch.)
>>
>>As for the link belt itself, once I determine the width, how do I
>
> determine
>
>>proper length? Do I have to loosen the motor to get the belt on? If so,
>>will that require a complete re-alignment of the saw? I googled this
>
> topic
>
>>and all I found was pros and cons of the link belt, not install info.
>>(Maybe I missed it.) TIA. -- Igor
>
>
>
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 18:08:19 -0400, "Gary W" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>220V - full speed, instantly. It also makes more of a "whooshing" noise, so
>that must be better. : )
Absolutely!. Thanks. -- Igor