When I started using a bandsaw, I read Duginske's book and worried all
the time about blade tension, distance to guide blocks, getting the
wheels perfectly parallel, etc. I also worried about what blade to use
for different tasks, etc. Then I read Lonnie Bird's book, who is much
more relaxed on all those topics.
Over time I've learned that most of those things don't make much
difference. Now I just use a Lenox 1/2", 4pi bi-metal blade and set
the factory guage to 1/2". If it flutters, I adjust it a little up or
done. I use that blade for everything -- ripping, resawing, and
dovetails. Works great. (I do have the Iturra spring because I
bottomed out the original obsessing over blade tension and it failed.)
You only need to worry about tension, etc. if your bandsaw doesn't
actually cut the way you expect it to. The bandsaw is a simple
machine. Using a sharp blade is probably what is most important.
Mark
Itura has a tension measuring device similar to the Lennox
shown in the Lonnie Bird article referenced elsewhere in
this thread. Price is around $140 US.
Suffolk suggests using The Flutter Method. Open up
the throat to max blade exposure, move the blade
guides back away from the blade and put enough
tension on the blade so it won't spin off the wheels.
Turn on the saw. If the blade's under tensioned it
will flutter. If no fluttering then back off the tension
'til fluttering begins then add tension 'til the
fluttering stops. If you start with fluttering, add
tension until it stop.
Repeating - you need to start with enough tension
to keep the blade on the wheels!
And BTW - check the weld before using any blade.
A bad weld that lets loose with the saw running
will a) accordian an amazing length of band in
the blade guard and b) necessitate a shorts change
(DAMHIKT).
charlie b
On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 17:38:31 -0400, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> like taking a gold fish to the vet
>
>*gaSP* You'd just let it swim in circles with a broken fin? You would??
only after giving it lots of room to swim... (flushing it)
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
B a r r y <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
>
> Mike in Mystic wrote:
>> I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone
>> would want one of these things.
>
>
> I'm with ya'!
>
> I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.
>
>
>
Goin' from memory - which is fair warning - the Iturra catalog walks
thru an example of using once. Seems to me it was a Lenox (Lennox?)
blade that he wanted to tension to the mfg'rs specifications.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] wrote:
>>Mike in Mystic wrote:
>>> I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
>>> want one of these things.
>>
>>I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.
>
> My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I
> bet
> that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the
> tension
> til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.
>
Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??
My fingers hurt just to think about it.
I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
want one of these things.
"Gene T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Hello all,
> Has anyone been able to try one out?
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5353
> Thanks,
> Gene
> --
>
>
>
>
>
> This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus software
>
>
Suffolk Machinary (Timber Wolf blades) suggests using a "flutter"
method to set the bandsaw tension. They say you should let the tension
off until the blade flutters. In other words, it oscillates back and
forth about 1/4". Then you increase the tension until the flutter is
gone. I found that process very time consuming, and and easy way to
ruin a blade because the tracking can change as you change the tension.
The flutter I'm talking about is that sometimes there can be a harmonic
oscillation in the blade after setting the tension. If that happens,
then you just have to change the tension slightly and the flutter will
go away.
When you see flutter, you'll know what it is. It's pretty obvious that
something is wrong because the blade will be vibrating back and forth
as opposed to just running straight down.
Mark
He is referring to "blade flutter" and it requires that
you pay "a great deal" of attention during the tightning
process to actually see the flutter and then "back off"
till the flutter stops. These instructions come with
the low tension Lenox blades.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00013.asp
mac davis wrote:
> On 26 Jun 2005 19:29:00 -0700, "Mark Wells" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>When I started using a bandsaw, I read Duginske's book and worried all
>>the time about blade tension, distance to guide blocks, getting the
>>wheels perfectly parallel, etc. I also worried about what blade to use
>>for different tasks, etc. Then I read Lonnie Bird's book, who is much
>>more relaxed on all those topics.
>>
>>Over time I've learned that most of those things don't make much
>>difference. Now I just use a Lenox 1/2", 4pi bi-metal blade and set
>>the factory guage to 1/2". If it flutters, I adjust it a little up or
>>done. I use that blade for everything -- ripping, resawing, and
>>dovetails. Works great. (I do have the Iturra spring because I
>>bottomed out the original obsessing over blade tension and it failed.)
>>
>>You only need to worry about tension, etc. if your bandsaw doesn't
>>actually cut the way you expect it to. The bandsaw is a simple
>>machine. Using a sharp blade is probably what is most important.
>>
>>Mark
>
>
> mark.. Maybe you can clear something up for me.. (I feel about the same as you
> do about setup)
> What IS fluttering?? I keep seeing it mentioned, but not described..
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
On 26 Jun 2005 19:29:00 -0700, "Mark Wells" <[email protected]> wrote:
>When I started using a bandsaw, I read Duginske's book and worried all
>the time about blade tension, distance to guide blocks, getting the
>wheels perfectly parallel, etc. I also worried about what blade to use
>for different tasks, etc. Then I read Lonnie Bird's book, who is much
>more relaxed on all those topics.
>
>Over time I've learned that most of those things don't make much
>difference. Now I just use a Lenox 1/2", 4pi bi-metal blade and set
>the factory guage to 1/2". If it flutters, I adjust it a little up or
>done. I use that blade for everything -- ripping, resawing, and
>dovetails. Works great. (I do have the Iturra spring because I
>bottomed out the original obsessing over blade tension and it failed.)
>
>You only need to worry about tension, etc. if your bandsaw doesn't
>actually cut the way you expect it to. The bandsaw is a simple
>machine. Using a sharp blade is probably what is most important.
>
>Mark
mark.. Maybe you can clear something up for me.. (I feel about the same as you
do about setup)
What IS fluttering?? I keep seeing it mentioned, but not described..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Robatoy <[email protected]> writes:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "arw01" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a
>> 3/4" blade when tensioned properly?
>
> If tuned to the same tension/frequency...certainly.
Certainly. You are 100% CERTAIN?
I'm not so sure.
Here's my reason:
Take a guitar.
Have 6 strings of different thicknesses. (i.e. a standard set)
Have them all the same tension.
The tones will be different.
It seems to me that on a bandsaw, with the same tension, with
different blade widths, will have different tones.
Can anyone validate/refute this?
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> writes:
> Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??
>
> My fingers hurt just to think about it.
Psst. Do it from the backside - that's the edge without the teeth. :-)
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
Robatoy <[email protected]> writes:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Bruce Barnett <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> You are 100% CERTAIN?
>
> I am if it is tuned to the same frequency.
On a guitar, if you tune the big fat string to match the same
frequency as the skinny one, you will likely break the guitar.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
In article <[email protected]>,
"arw01" <[email protected]> wrote:
> ah, but what is the correct note. Sure it would work though. Once you
> got the first note correct. Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a
> 3/4" blade when tensioned properly?
>
> Alan
E
In article <[email protected]>,
Bruce Barnett <[email protected]> wrote:
> You are 100% CERTAIN?
I am if it is tuned to the same frequency.
However:
As the frequency increases with tension, wouldn't it stand to reason
that if the same frequency is reached.......waitasec..... wouldn't a
3/4" blade require more tension to get to the same pitch(frequency??)
This requires more thought.
In article <[email protected]>,
"arw01" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a
> 3/4" blade when tensioned properly?
If tuned to the same tension/frequency...certainly.
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 17:20:06 GMT, Patrick Conroy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>mac davis <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>>
>> On 27 Jun 2005 11:27:29 -0700, "Mark Wells" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> ok, I'm pretty sure that I understand that, but on the basis of "there
>> are no stupid questions", I've had both "side to side" movement and
>> forward and backward" movement.. (improper roller bearing
>> adjustment).. are these both flutter, or are we talking something
>> else?
>
>Side to Side. When my blades flutter, you can actually hear them slapping
>the sides of the return channel on the left. Pretty loud. It usually
>goes away with a turn or two of the tension knob.
>
>
>>
>> BTW: I'm on my way to the saw shop to replace the blade that I broke
>> last night, trying to make it flutter.. lol
>>
>
>I gave up on the Suffolk Saw flutter approach. I could never find the
>flutter spot. In the end, I end up tensioning the blades to the saw's
>gauge marks.
Thanks, Patrick... I've only had what you describe as flutter once, and it was
(as usual) stupidity on my part... I put a 5/8 blade on and was thinking 3/8
when I set the tension...
I spent a few hours cleaning and setting up the BS yesterday... added cool
blocks and a new blade..
Set it on the line for it's size and starting cutting bowl blanks, and my wife
asked what was wrong with the BS.. it was so much quieter that she thought that
it was messed up..lol
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
In article <[email protected]>,
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote:
> "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > [email protected] wrote:
> >>Mike in Mystic wrote:
> >>> I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
> >>> want one of these things.
> >>
> >>I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.
> >
> > My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I
> > bet
> > that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the
> > tension
> > til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.
> >
>
> Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??
>
> My fingers hurt just to think about it.
It shouldn't be running, silly!
In article <[email protected]>,
mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> like taking a gold fish to the vet
*gaSP* You'd just let it swim in circles with a broken fin? You would??
In article <[email protected]>, "arw01" <[email protected]> wrote:
>ah, but what is the correct note. Sure it would work though. Once you
>got the first note correct. Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a
>3/4" blade when tensioned properly?
Probably not - I'm picturing a chart taped to the back of the bandsaw that
looks something like
1/2" resaw blade - Bb
1/4" utility blade - E
1/8" scroll blade - G#
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
Good answer and good article, Doug. I still dont' think I'll pay the money
for something like this, but I have a better idea why someone with more
stringent requirements than myself might want one.
Mike
"Doug Warner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
>want one of these things.
>
Here's why: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00013.asp
And, if you're a metalworker as well, a hydraulic alternative: (Near
bottom of page)
http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/jun02/jun02.html
I like this one: No squinting at a dusty fiber washer (Delta), and
you know you have the right tension, instead of hoping the spring is
still good. I have the convave cut problem with thick material, and
have been investigating blade tension measurement systems.
To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@"
Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>Mike in Mystic wrote:
>> I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
>> want one of these things.
>
>I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.
My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I bet
that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the tension
til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
mac davis <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
>
> On 27 Jun 2005 11:27:29 -0700, "Mark Wells" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> ok, I'm pretty sure that I understand that, but on the basis of "there
> are no stupid questions", I've had both "side to side" movement and
> forward and backward" movement.. (improper roller bearing
> adjustment).. are these both flutter, or are we talking something
> else?
Side to Side. When my blades flutter, you can actually hear them slapping
the sides of the return channel on the left. Pretty loud. It usually
goes away with a turn or two of the tension knob.
>
> BTW: I'm on my way to the saw shop to replace the blade that I broke
> last night, trying to make it flutter.. lol
>
I gave up on the Suffolk Saw flutter approach. I could never find the
flutter spot. In the end, I end up tensioning the blades to the saw's
gauge marks.
On 27 Jun 2005 11:27:29 -0700, "Mark Wells" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Suffolk Machinary (Timber Wolf blades) suggests using a "flutter"
>method to set the bandsaw tension. They say you should let the tension
>off until the blade flutters. In other words, it oscillates back and
>forth about 1/4". Then you increase the tension until the flutter is
>gone. I found that process very time consuming, and and easy way to
>ruin a blade because the tracking can change as you change the tension.
>
>The flutter I'm talking about is that sometimes there can be a harmonic
>oscillation in the blade after setting the tension. If that happens,
>then you just have to change the tension slightly and the flutter will
>go away.
>
>When you see flutter, you'll know what it is. It's pretty obvious that
>something is wrong because the blade will be vibrating back and forth
>as opposed to just running straight down.
>
>Mark
ok, I'm pretty sure that I understand that, but on the basis of "there are no
stupid questions", I've had both "side to side" movement and forward and
backward" movement.. (improper roller bearing adjustment)..
are these both flutter, or are we talking something else?
BTW: I'm on my way to the saw shop to replace the blade that I broke last night,
trying to make it flutter.. lol
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 10:04:22 -0400, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> Bruce Barnett <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> You are 100% CERTAIN?
>
>I am if it is tuned to the same frequency.
>However:
>As the frequency increases with tension, wouldn't it stand to reason
>that if the same frequency is reached.......waitasec..... wouldn't a
>3/4" blade require more tension to get to the same pitch(frequency??)
>
probably.. and my saw shows the "suggested" tension setting for a 3/4" blade
quite a bit higher on the scale than a 1/8" blade..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 22:18:53 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>Mike in Mystic wrote:
>>>> I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
>>>> want one of these things.
>>>
>>>I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.
>>
>> My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I
>> bet
>> that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the
>> tension
>> til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.
>>
>
>Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??
>
>My fingers hurt just to think about it.
>
maybe you get a band saw blade pick?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 09:04:04 GMT, "Gene T" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Hello all,
>Has anyone been able to try one out?
>http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5353
>Thanks,
>Gene
it looks like a good idea, but adding a $200 accessory to my $300 BS would seem
like taking a gold fish to the vet...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> probably.. and my saw shows the "suggested" tension setting for a 3/4"
> blade
> quite a bit higher on the scale than a 1/8" blade..
Not really. The 3/4" blade is six times wider than the 1/8" so it takes
more spring tension to get the same psi.
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
>want one of these things.
>
Here's why: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00013.asp
And, if you're a metalworker as well, a hydraulic alternative: (Near
bottom of page)
http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/jun02/jun02.html
I like this one: No squinting at a dusty fiber washer (Delta), and
you know you have the right tension, instead of hoping the spring is
still good. I have the convave cut problem with thick material, and
have been investigating blade tension measurement systems.=20
To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@"
Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.