Folks,
I have a room which features a red oak floor, doors, craftsman style
wide trim, and radiator covers. The floor is clear oil varnished, the
rest is stained Minwax Natural, mixed 3:1 with Minwax Golden Oak, then
covered with Seal Coat and the same varnish as the floors, for just a
slightly darker color than the floors. The walls are a cool, medium
soft green.
Then there's the metal entry door, factory painted dove gray... 8^(
The door looks good from the outside, and is durable and secure, but
what to do with the inside...
Since we all appreciate wood here, does anyone have any suggestions on
what to do with the door?
I can gel stain and "grain" it, but I don't know how that would look
side by side with real wood. Painting it the wall color wouldn't
work, according to my wife (so you know it won't <G>).
Help! There's lots of different tastes and plenty of good eyes here.
Anybody?
Thanks,
Barry
Ba r r y wrote:
> On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:05:38 GMT, Art Greenberg <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >
> >Laminate a red oak veneer on the inside, and stain it to match the trim.
>
> Excellent suggestion, but I forgot to mention that the door has a
> stamped raised panel design.
>
> Your suggestion has me thinking about a false panel, along the lines
> of a Sub Zero 'fridge.
Laminating thin plywood to the inside of the door is by far the easiest
solution, but there are some caveats. You will need to hide the edges
with molding; the molding will stand out from the surface of the door
plane and casings, which might look odd - mock it up to be sure you
like the look; the areas behind the raised panel recesses is more
vulnerable to damage, but in all likelihood you'd need some clumsy
gorilla to poke a hole in the door at those exact spots. If that last
one has you concerned, you can fill in the recessed areas with
expanding foam, let it fill the void and then cut the foam back flush
with the face of the door.
R
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:34:38 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>But then, I dislike metal doors and for that matter mdf. I'll take real wood
>every time. :-)
This particular door is in a brutal, direct sun location. I was
trying to avoid spending tons of my time refinishing the door every
year, as I had to do with the old door. We tried storm doors to
protect the old door, which literally created an oven. A newspaper
stuck between the doors would actually brown in a couple of hours,
even in the winter!
Since the house is white with typical dark green trim, a painted door
looks fine in this instance. All the nice wood is on the inside,
where I don't have to refinish it. <G>
>A faux paint job would be better than what you've got, and if you don't like
>the results, it is reversible. Doesn't Jewitt or Flexner have a recipe for
>faux finishes on their website?
They sure do. Since the door is surrounded by real wood, and is next
to a real wood closet door, I figured this won't be the best location
for a faux finish.
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 15:39:20 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>A faux paint job would be better than what you've got, and if you don't like
>>the results, it is reversible. Doesn't Jewitt or Flexner have a recipe for
>>faux finishes on their website?
>
>They sure do. Since the door is surrounded by real wood, and is next
>to a real wood closet door, I figured this won't be the best location
>for a faux finish.
I would look for a good painter and ask if he could wood grain the
door to match. This technique is quite common on both metal and
fiberglass doors and a skilled painter should be able to make a very
good match. While it won't be a real wood door, it should look very
close and IMO will likely look as good as any of the alternatives
mentioned.
I also think you could do this yourself but it might take a few
attempts to get good colors and a few more attempts to get the
graining technique down. I'd pay the painter.
Mike O.
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:19:22 GMT, Ba r r y wrote:
> On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:05:38 GMT, Art Greenberg <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >
> >Laminate a red oak veneer on the inside, and stain it to match the trim.
>
> Excellent suggestion, but I forgot to mention that the door has a
> stamped raised panel design.
>
> Your suggestion has me thinking about a false panel, along the lines
> of a Sub Zero 'fridge.
>
> Thanks!
If you have access to a vaccum press, and use and soften a commercial veneer,
you could get it to follow the contours of the door. It might look a bit odd,
though, to have a raised panel door look so uniform in the grain of the wood.
It would be more trouble, but more authentic looking, if you veneered the
panels, rails, and stiles separately.
--
Art
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 15:39:20 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>This particular door is in a brutal, direct sun location. I was
>trying to avoid spending tons of my time refinishing the door every
>year, as I had to do with the old door. We tried storm doors to
>protect the old door, which literally created an oven. A newspaper
>stuck between the doors would actually brown in a couple of hours,
>even in the winter!
Maybe the best use of wood in that case would be inside of a tree
screening the entry, if possible.
-Leuf
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 17:40:40 -0500, Mike O. <[email protected]> wrote:
>I also think you could do this yourself but it might take a few
>attempts to get good colors and a few more attempts to get the
>graining technique down. I'd pay the painter.
>
>Mike O.
Great point!
The leading contender is currently a "hanging", as in the kind on a
wall, or a faux set of wood blinds, <G>
Barry
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 11:30:15 GMT, Ba r r y wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I have a room which features a red oak floor, doors, craftsman style
> wide trim, and radiator covers. The floor is clear oil varnished, the
> rest is stained Minwax Natural, mixed 3:1 with Minwax Golden Oak, then
> covered with Seal Coat and the same varnish as the floors, for just a
> slightly darker color than the floors. The walls are a cool, medium
> soft green.
>
> Then there's the metal entry door, factory painted dove gray... 8^(
> The door looks good from the outside, and is durable and secure, but
> what to do with the inside...
>
> Since we all appreciate wood here, does anyone have any suggestions on
> what to do with the door?
>
> I can gel stain and "grain" it, but I don't know how that would look
> side by side with real wood. Painting it the wall color wouldn't
> work, according to my wife (so you know it won't <G>).
>
> Help! There's lots of different tastes and plenty of good eyes here.
> Anybody?
Laminate a red oak veneer on the inside, and stain it to match the trim.
--
Art
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:05:38 GMT, Art Greenberg <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Laminate a red oak veneer on the inside, and stain it to match the trim.
Excellent suggestion, but I forgot to mention that the door has a
stamped raised panel design.
Your suggestion has me thinking about a false panel, along the lines
of a Sub Zero 'fridge.
Thanks!
<<Excellent suggestion, but I forgot to mention that the door has a
stamped raised panel design.>>
How about filling in the depressed area with Bondo and then laminating with
oak veneer.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Folks,
>
> I have a room which features a red oak floor, doors, craftsman style
> wide trim, and radiator covers. The floor is clear oil varnished, the
> rest is stained Minwax Natural, mixed 3:1 with Minwax Golden Oak, then
> covered with Seal Coat and the same varnish as the floors, for just a
> slightly darker color than the floors. The walls are a cool, medium
> soft green.
>
> Then there's the metal entry door, factory painted dove gray... 8^(
> The door looks good from the outside, and is durable and secure, but
> what to do with the inside...
>
> Since we all appreciate wood here, does anyone have any suggestions on
> what to do with the door?
>
> I can gel stain and "grain" it, but I don't know how that would look
> side by side with real wood. Painting it the wall color wouldn't
> work, according to my wife (so you know it won't <G>).
>
> Help! There's lots of different tastes and plenty of good eyes here.
> Anybody?
>
> Thanks,
> Barry
I would probably make a new front door out of quarter sawn white oak. It is
a weather resistant material. It will require periodic maintenance, but so
do the metal doors if appearance means anything.
But then, I dislike metal doors and for that matter mdf. I'll take real wood
every time. :-)
A faux paint job would be better than what you've got, and if you don't like
the results, it is reversible. Doesn't Jewitt or Flexner have a recipe for
faux finishes on their website?