Hello:
Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with
10' ceilings.
Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:
(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.
My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
220 VAC powered tools ?
What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece
of equipment.
Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of
receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match
on any new piece of equipment purchased.
Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this
criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.
Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
Steve
"Petrified Woodworker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Mi2dg.168058$5Z.15774@dukeread02...
> Hello:
>
> Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
> woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with
> 10' ceilings.
>
> Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:
>
> (14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.
>
> My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
> 220 VAC powered tools ?
>
> What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
> until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
> buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired
> piece
> of equipment.
>
> Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
> rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style
> of
> receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to
> match
> on any new piece of equipment purchased.
>
> Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
> AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet
> this
> criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
> only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.
>
> Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
> Steve
>
>
I used Hubbell L6-30R locking twist lock plugs and connectors throughout.
15 years, lots of use, no problems.
Dave
On Wed, 24 May 2006 22:42:08 GMT, Doug Miller wrote:
> No, you just need to go somewhere else. Among the major home center chains,
> only Menards will have those receptacles -- but any real hardware store
> (e.g. Ace, True-Value, Do-It-Best, etc) will probably have some of those,
> and any electrical supply house will *definitely* have them.
I found them at Lowes, here in west-central NJ.
--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net
"Jim" <[email protected]> writes:
>It isn't overdesigned if you use a 3HP saw. It is underdesigned if you use
>a 5 HP single phase saw.
A 3HP saw only requires a 20 amp circuit and I believe a 5HP saw will be
fine on a 30 amp circuit.
Brian Elfert
"Petrified Woodworker" <[email protected]> writes:
>I think I'm going to go with 6-30R receptacles & 6-30P plugs . . . . . if I
>am forced to install to get final inspection . . . If the inspector will let
>me wire nut, tape and cover I can do like you did as needed . . .
Whatever you do, I would put new plugs on all tools and make the
receptacles match. this way a tool can be moved with changing the
receptacle.
Personally, I would use L6-30 plugs and receptacles since you went for 30
amp.
Brian elfert
In article <[email protected]>, "John Sellers" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>All my 240V tools came with no plugs attached - but, I don't know if
>this is typical.
Some of mine did, some didn't.
>
>I found that most of the 30A straight blade receptacles are really
>large, and expensive - especially at the big box stores. They may
>even require a larger than nominal device box. And the matching plugs
>are *honkin'* big, too. I didn't want those big plugs hanging around
>while not using the tools. The chance of dropping on the floor and
>cracking the plug housing was another dissuasion for using these.
Right -- that's because you're looking at dryer and/or range receptacles and
plugs. NEMA 6-20R and 6-30R are a normal size.
>
>A little shopping around on ebay found some NEMA L6-30R and L6-30P
>twistlock units - I got 8 of each for under $60 shipped, all from the
>same merchant. They were salvaged from a demolished data center, but
>entirely suitable for re-use in my shop.
Sounds like a pretty good deal.
> And the twistlocks are much
>more compact than the straight blade devices. I have four installed
>in wall boxes, and made an extension cord with a leftover plug and one
>inline receptacle.
Ya done good.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
I foolishly over designed . . . I have 30AMP breakers for all my 220 VAC
outlets . . . code requires receptacle to be rated as high or higher than
breaker . . .
Thanks for info . . I realize now I should have gone with 15AMP or 20 AMP
breakers & changed the one or two on off chance I needed it . .
I think I'm going to go with 6-30R receptacles & 6-30P plugs . . . . . if I
am forced to install to get final inspection . . . If the inspector will let
me wire nut, tape and cover I can do like you did as needed . . .
"Shopdog" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gL2dg.7345$qn2.6540@trnddc04...
> Not sure why you need a 30amp breaker, but all my tools and compressor use
> Cooper 1876W-single receptacle/20a-250v;2pole.3wire grounding receptacles.
>
> Searcher
>
>
In article <Mi2dg.168058$5Z.15774@dukeread02>, "Petrified Woodworker" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello:
>
>Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
>woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with
>10' ceilings.
>
>Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:
>
>(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.
Not, I hope, all on the same circuit. You did say breakers (plural)...
>
>My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
>220 VAC powered tools ?
http://frentzandsons.com/Hardware%20References/plugandreceptacleconfiguratio.
htm
Scroll down to the 30A devices. The one you want is the top one in that
section, the NEMA 6-30R. It's pretty commonly used. That, and the 6-20R right
above it, for 20A circuits.
Assuming those 14 outlets are on several different circuits -- and if not,
they should be -- you might consider changing the breaker for one or
two circuits to 20A (leaving the 10ga wire in place) and using NEMA 6-20R
receptacles there to gain more flexibility in what machines you put where.
>What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
>until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
>buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece
>of equipment.
>
>Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
>rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of
>receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match
>on any new piece of equipment purchased.
Not much of a problem, really -- the 6-30R and 6-20R will probably accomodate
nearly any 240V shop tool you might want to buy.
>
>Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
>AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this
>criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
>only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.
No, you just need to go somewhere else. Among the major home center chains,
only Menards will have those receptacles -- but any real hardware store (e.g.
Ace, True-Value, Do-It-Best, etc) will probably have some of those, and any
electrical supply house will *definitely* have them.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
"Petrified Woodworker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Mi2dg.168058$5Z.15774@dukeread02...
> Hello:
> My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common
to most
> 220 VAC powered tools ?
All my 240V tools came with no plugs attached - but, I don't know if
this is typical.
I found that most of the 30A straight blade receptacles are really
large, and expensive - especially at the big box stores. They may
even require a larger than nominal device box. And the matching plugs
are *honkin'* big, too. I didn't want those big plugs hanging around
while not using the tools. The chance of dropping on the floor and
cracking the plug housing was another dissuasion for using these.
A little shopping around on ebay found some NEMA L6-30R and L6-30P
twistlock units - I got 8 of each for under $60 shipped, all from the
same merchant. They were salvaged from a demolished data center, but
entirely suitable for re-use in my shop. And the twistlocks are much
more compact than the straight blade devices. I have four installed
in wall boxes, and made an extension cord with a leftover plug and one
inline receptacle.
> What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each
box
> until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there.
Then
> buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly
acquired piece
> of equipment.
You'll need to pigtail the cables in the device boxes anyway - go
ahead and make them up with nuts on the pigtails, then install only
the receptacles you need. The rest can come as you change layout and
need the location, or buy more tools.
Hope this helps,
John Sellers
"Petrified Woodworker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:414dg.168068$5Z.62307@dukeread02...
>I foolishly over designed . . . I have 30AMP breakers for all my 220 VAC
> outlets . . . code requires receptacle to be rated as high or higher than
> breaker . . .
>
> Thanks for info . . I realize now I should have gone with 15AMP or 20 AMP
> breakers & changed the one or two on off chance I needed it . .
>
> I think I'm going to go with 6-30R receptacles & 6-30P plugs . . . . . if
> I
> am forced to install to get final inspection . . . If the inspector will
> let
> me wire nut, tape and cover I can do like you did as needed . . .
>
>
> "Shopdog" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:gL2dg.7345$qn2.6540@trnddc04...
>> Not sure why you need a 30amp breaker, but all my tools and compressor
>> use
>> Cooper 1876W-single receptacle/20a-250v;2pole.3wire grounding
>> receptacles.
>>
>> Searcher
>>
>>
>
>
It isn't overdesigned if you use a 3HP saw. It is underdesigned if you use
a 5 HP single phase saw.
Jim
Thanks - heading there tomorrow . . .
"Art Greenberg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 24 May 2006 22:42:08 GMT, Doug Miller wrote:
> > No, you just need to go somewhere else. Among the major home center
chains,
> > only Menards will have those receptacles -- but any real hardware store
> > (e.g. Ace, True-Value, Do-It-Best, etc) will probably have some of
those,
> > and any electrical supply house will *definitely* have them.
>
> I found them at Lowes, here in west-central NJ.
>
> --
> Art Greenberg
> artg at eclipse dot net
>
Thanks LOL LOL
"Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Petrified Woodworker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:414dg.168068$5Z.62307@dukeread02...
> >I foolishly over designed . . . I have 30AMP breakers for all my 220 VAC
> > outlets . . . code requires receptacle to be rated as high or higher
than
> > breaker . . .
> >
> > Thanks for info . . I realize now I should have gone with 15AMP or 20
AMP
> > breakers & changed the one or two on off chance I needed it . .
> >
> > I think I'm going to go with 6-30R receptacles & 6-30P plugs . . . . .
if
> > I
> > am forced to install to get final inspection . . . If the inspector will
> > let
> > me wire nut, tape and cover I can do like you did as needed . . .
> >
> >
> > "Shopdog" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:gL2dg.7345$qn2.6540@trnddc04...
> >> Not sure why you need a 30amp breaker, but all my tools and compressor
> >> use
> >> Cooper 1876W-single receptacle/20a-250v;2pole.3wire grounding
> >> receptacles.
> >>
> >> Searcher
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> It isn't overdesigned if you use a 3HP saw. It is underdesigned if you
use
> a 5 HP single phase saw.
> Jim
>
>
"John Sellers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I found that most of the 30A straight blade receptacles are really
> large, and expensive - especially at the big box stores. They may
> even require a larger than nominal device box. And the matching plugs
> are *honkin'* big, too. I didn't want those big plugs hanging around
> while not using the tools. The chance of dropping on the floor and
> cracking the plug housing was another dissuasion for using these.
Lowes carries a stock of L6-30R&P.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Wed, 24 May 2006 14:17:41 -0500, "Petrified Woodworker"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello:
>
>Advice needed from persons owning one or more 220 VAC powered pieces of
>woodworking equipment. I have almost completed my workshop. 20' X 22' with
>10' ceilings.
>
>Electrical as it relates to 220 VAC outlets:
>
>(14) 220 VAC outlets - wired with 10 gauge - 30 amp breakers.
>
>My dilemma. Is there one receptacle out there that would be common to most
>220 VAC powered tools ?
>
>What I have considered doing is wire nutting, taping & covering each box
>until I purchase the piece of equipment that would be located there. Then
>buy the appropriate receptacle to match the plug on the newly acquired piece
>of equipment.
>
>Problem: The original reason for so many receptacles was to be able to
>rearrange the shop in any configuration. But that would require one style of
>receptacle on every outlet. Then I would just simply attach a plug to match
>on any new piece of equipment purchased.
>
>Problem: The receptacles need a 30 AMP minimum rating since I am using 30
>AMP breakers. Well, all the receptacles I found at the "BORG" that meet this
>criteria are either dryer receptacles or oven receptacles. It appears the
>only way to get a plug to fit would be with an integral pigtail.
>
>Any suggestions appreciated . . . .
>Steve
>
Wirenut all the boxes but the end one on the strings and install a
6-30 in that one. That should make the inspector happy. Later you can
add what you need. It is really a code violation to put a 6-20 on them
but since you are plugging in motor loads the issue may get resolved
in article 430.
"Brian Elfert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Jim" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>>It isn't overdesigned if you use a 3HP saw. It is underdesigned if you
>>use
>>a 5 HP single phase saw.
>
> A 3HP saw only requires a 20 amp circuit and I believe a 5HP saw will be
> fine on a 30 amp circuit.
>
> Brian Elfert
Delta's catalog says 40 amp slow blow fuse for the 5 hp saw. I am not sure
what the equivalent circuit breaker would be, The starting current for a
single phase motor is quite a bit more than the rated amperes for the motor,
but of course that peak only lasts for a very short time.
They don't say what the circuit breaker or fuse size should be for a 3 hp
motor.
No matter what, the OP should consult an electrician for this kind of
question rather than the mighty mass of misinformation that is called the
internet.
Jim