After thinking about the workbench I want to build for a while, I am leaning
towards using many facets of "Garrett Hack's Ultimate Workbench" (I first
saw it in the FWW, "Tools & Shops, annual issue", No. 209) as a guideline.
The publication has lots of details, but the following link contains a
picture at least.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/20552/the-workbench-of-a-lifetime
Of course, I'm going with Lew's recipe for a SYP top. I'm ignoring Hack's
drawers, till, and other niceties, but I really like the look of the benches
foundation.
I find the base/feet especially attractive--though I'm not really sure how
to saw a semicircular-arc on the front and rear of the feet:
I was thinking it would be easier if I drilled a small hole/dimple at the
"center" of the circe having the semicircular-arc on its circumference--then
I could build a jig that would allow me to rotate the piece on my BS. Do
you think Hack did something like that?
I believe Hack uses double-tenons and pegged single-tenon joinery throughout
his bench (I better not be in a hurry, and I better practice...). He says
the bench is "rock solid".
I thought the base should be made of hard wood, but not sure what type.
Suggestions welcomed! I was just looking at a wood guide that Woodsmith
sent me, and it says "Yellow Pine is Hard" (wow, that comes as a surprise to
me!). Maybe SYP throughout? Other ideas?
Thank you,
Bill
On Sat, 3 Apr 2010 05:36:40 -0500, the infamous "Leon"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple, 2x4
>and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
>stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
>But I am also considering the same design and using BB plywood for the whole
>thing, just laminate/build up to achieve 2x4 and 2x6 dimensions.
>SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder than
>poplar for instance.
Oh, please. Just go get the http://fwd4.me/KBx and do the gloat,
damnit. We can handle it. ;)
--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent,
but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin
>
> Oh, please. =A0Just go get thehttp://fwd4.me/KBxand do the gloat,
> damnit. =A0We can handle it. =A0;)
>
> --
> It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intell=
igent,
> but the one most responsive to change.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- Charles Darwin
Festool is having a sale from now until the end of May. I am
considering getting that table. But I don't think I would gloat
afterwards.
On Sun, 4 Apr 2010 01:05:34 -0400, the infamous "Bill"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 3 Apr 2010 05:36:40 -0500, the infamous "Leon"
>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple, 2x4
>>>and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
>>>stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
>>>But I am also considering the same design and using BB plywood for the
>>>whole
>>>thing, just laminate/build up to achieve 2x4 and 2x6 dimensions.
>>>SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder
>>>than
>>>poplar for instance.
>>
>> Oh, please. Just go get the http://fwd4.me/KBx and do the gloat,
>> damnit. We can handle it. ;)
>
>You really would like one of those?
No, only if it were given to me. But the Festool Three would.
>Better not try to plane on it...
>And did you see the feet and legs? Oh, the humanity...
Piece of cake. Just plug in the planer over there and...
</silly Normite response> I carry a #4 with me in the truck and used
it to touch up the mess the circ saw (dull blade, no spare with me)
made on ripping the tubasix PT board. My client helped by holding the
board steady. He was amazed at how quickly it took the ripple off and
put a radius on the top of the cut edge. He played with the shavings
for awhile afterward. That was fun to watch.
Vive le Galoot! Vive Satanley! Vive Roy Underhill!
--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent,
but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin
On Sun, 4 Apr 2010 03:07:37 -0400, the infamous "Bill"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/20552/the-workbench-of-a-lifetime
>
> I'm not really sure how
>> to saw a semicircular-arc on the front and rear of the feet:
>> I was thinking it would be easier if I drilled a small hole/dimple at the
>> "center" of the circe having the semicircular-arc on its
>> circumference--then I could build a jig that would allow me to rotate the
>> piece on my BS.
>
>
>Okay, assume the problem is to "cut a 3.5" radius arc off the end of a 4 by
>4 with a BS (note that 4 by 4s are actually about 3.5" by 3.5"). Assume 1/4"
>blade--so the blade is a non-issue.
It'll be extremely dicey with an 8' tubafore and nigh onta impossible
with a 20' length. What's your length, Bill?
That kind of move is typically done with either a sabre saw or recip
saw. Occasionally it's done with a portable bandsaw. (HINT: This is a
_perfect_ time to go buy a new portable bandsaw, Bill.
>I tried using my noggin for about 20 minutes and here's what I came up with:
>
>1) Hammer a 3+" nail though a suitably large piece of plywood and clamp that
>to the BS table
You misspelled "bolt that to the BS table"
>with the nail vertical and about 3.5" to the right of the cutting edge of
>the blade.
>2) Hammer 1 or 2 small nails into the side vertically aligned, , and about
>3.5" from the end of the 4 by 4.
>(the hole left by these nails will not be visible in the project).
>
>3) Now the 4 by 4 can be held and rotated with the meeting point of the
>short nails and the workpiece
>held flush against the long nail (and the supporting plywood underneath)
>through the cut.
>
>Please critique, if you will, my solution to the problem. This fixture/jig
>surely represents some of the most out-of-the-box
>thinking I have ever done in my brief experience in woodworking (I've a long
>way to go, huh? : ) ).
It could work, and that is the ideal saw for smaller work of this
nature, but moving long sticks into a blade can get wonky in a hurry.
I ran 8' tubasixes through the bandsaw to build curves into my bridge
base. That was fun, but I had set up infeed and outfeed tables for
it. You'll need a similar suport for the fourbafour if you do it that
way. You didn't say how many of these you're doing.
No matter how you cut them, you'll have to sand the cut ends afterward
anyway. If you don't have short (3' or less) pieces to cut, it might
be safer to hand/sabre/recip saw the cuts and use a belt sandah on the
thing to do final shaping.
G'luck!
--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent,
but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin
On Sun, 4 Apr 2010 18:21:27 -0400, the infamous "Bill"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>>>Like the feet in this workbench:
>>>
>>>http://www.finewoodworking.com/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=33067
>>
>> Yeah, easy enough on the bandsaw. You could pivot the piece on the
>> nail on your locator board instead of using extra nailsif you wanted.
>> That's what I'd probably do.
>>
>> I cut these freehand, bottoms and ends. http://fwd4.me/6oE
>>
>
>Nice. I like the "hollow" in the base between the ends of the feet.
>Garrett Hack sketches a hollow
>in his workbench diagram, but the feature does not appear in his actual
>bench.
>
>Intuitively, seems like stability would be easier to obtain with hollow
>(less contact area)
True!
>but that the
>hollow could create a point of weakness. Maybe there's no such thing as a
>weak 4 by 4, I'm not sure.
There is if you cut 3" away. ;)
>I like the look of it though.
Ditto. It's the traditional look/style.
--
In order that people may be happy in their work, these three things are
needed: They must be fit for it. They must not do too much of it. And
they must have a sense of success in it.
-- John Ruskin, Pre-Raphaelitism, 1850
"Bill" wrote:
> I'm not really sure how
>> to saw a semicircular-arc on the front and rear of the feet:
----------------------------------------
1) Make a template from 1/4 hard board.
2) Trace template outline onto stock.
3) Bandsaw about 1/8" proud of the outline on both ends of stock.
4) Attach template to cut stock with double backed tape.
5) Using a top bearing 1/2" x 2" router bit, clean up top
1-1/2"-2" of bandsaw cut.
(Be careful of "climb routing to minimize tearout).
6) Flip stock over and using a 1/2" x 2", flush trim bit, clean the
remaining 1-1/2"-2" of bandsaw cut.
7) Remove template and move to next piece.
8) If required, square up corners with good bench chisel.
Time for "a little greenie" to admire your handiwork.
Lew
It goes without saying, the router is in a table.
Definitely not free hand work.
Lew
------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> I'm not really sure how
>>> to saw a semicircular-arc on the front and rear of the feet:
> ----------------------------------------
> 1) Make a template from 1/4 hard board.
> 2) Trace template outline onto stock.
> 3) Bandsaw about 1/8" proud of the outline on both ends of stock.
> 4) Attach template to cut stock with double backed tape.
> 5) Using a top bearing 1/2" x 2" router bit, clean up top
> 1-1/2"-2" of bandsaw cut.
> (Be careful of "climb routing to minimize tearout).
> 6) Flip stock over and using a 1/2" x 2", flush trim bit, clean the
> remaining 1-1/2"-2" of bandsaw cut.
> 7) Remove template and move to next piece.
> 8) If required, square up corners with good bench chisel.
>
> Time for "a little greenie" to admire your handiwork.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>>
>> I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple,
>> 2x4 and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
>> stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
>
> You don't like the feet on the bench I linked to above? His vertical
> supports are each joined
> with double T&M joinery. You must be in a hurry! ; )
>
That is a fine design but I want a work bench...to build projects. I don't
want a work bench project. ;~)
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder
>> than poplar for instance.
>>
>
> The "index card" that Woodsmith sent me lists White Pine as soft and
> Yellow Pine as hard. It just occurred to me: maybe they mean in the sense
> of actually working the wood, rather than it's "botanical classification"!
>
> Bill
>
SYP is a hard "softwood". IIRC hard and soft woods are classified as to the
width of the leaves on the tree. Long and narrow/thin leaf, soft wood.
Broad leaf, hard wood.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After thinking about the workbench I want to build for a while, I am
> leaning towards using many facets of "Garrett Hack's Ultimate Workbench"
> (I first saw it in the FWW, "Tools & Shops, annual issue", No. 209) as a
> guideline. The publication has lots of details, but the following link
> contains a picture at least.
>
> http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/20552/the-workbench-of-a-lifetime
>
> Of course, I'm going with Lew's recipe for a SYP top. I'm ignoring Hack's
> drawers, till, and other niceties, but I really like the look of the
> benches foundation.
>
> I find the base/feet especially attractive--though I'm not really sure how
> to saw a semicircular-arc on the front and rear of the feet:
> I was thinking it would be easier if I drilled a small hole/dimple at the
> "center" of the circe having the semicircular-arc on its
> circumference--then I could build a jig that would allow me to rotate the
> piece on my BS. Do you think Hack did something like that?
> I believe Hack uses double-tenons and pegged single-tenon joinery
> throughout his bench (I better not be in a hurry, and I better
> practice...). He says the bench is "rock solid".
>
> I thought the base should be made of hard wood, but not sure what type.
> Suggestions welcomed! I was just looking at a wood guide that Woodsmith
> sent me, and it says "Yellow Pine is Hard" (wow, that comes as a surprise
> to me!). Maybe SYP throughout? Other ideas?
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple, 2x4
and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
But I am also considering the same design and using BB plywood for the whole
thing, just laminate/build up to achieve 2x4 and 2x6 dimensions.
SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder than
poplar for instance.
"ExtremelyAvg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2d480929-64df-407d-a5b3-ec37b931f6b9@k19g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
>
> Oh, please. Just go get thehttp://fwd4.me/KBxand do the gloat,
> damnit. We can handle it. ;)
>
> --
> It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most
> intelligent,
> but the one most responsive to change.
> -- Charles Darwin
Festool is having a sale from now until the end of May. I am
considering getting that table. But I don't think I would gloat
afterwards.
Table not on sale.... Only the track saws and accessories for the track
saw.
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:05:48 -0500, the infamous "Leon"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>
>>> Oh, please. Just go get the http://fwd4.me/KBx and do the gloat,
>>> damnit. We can handle it. ;)
>>
>>
>>Ok ok ok ok,, I'll go get "2".
>
> Right. One for each hand? Seems reasonable.
Well 1 just does not seem expensive enough. ;~)
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 3 Apr 2010 05:36:40 -0500, the infamous "Leon"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple, 2x4
>>and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
>>stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
>>But I am also considering the same design and using BB plywood for the
>>whole
>>thing, just laminate/build up to achieve 2x4 and 2x6 dimensions.
>>SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder
>>than
>>poplar for instance.
>
> Oh, please. Just go get the http://fwd4.me/KBx and do the gloat,
> damnit. We can handle it. ;)
Ok ok ok ok,, I'll go get "2". I'll tell my wife you siad it would be ok.
;~)
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> After thinking about the workbench I want to build for a while, I am
>> leaning towards using many facets of "Garrett Hack's Ultimate Workbench"
>> (I first saw it in the FWW, "Tools & Shops, annual issue", No. 209) as a
>> guideline. The publication has lots of details, but the following link
>> contains a picture at least.
>>
>> http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/20552/the-workbench-of-a-lifetime
>>
>> Of course, I'm going with Lew's recipe for a SYP top. I'm ignoring
>> Hack's drawers, till, and other niceties, but I really like the look of
>> the benches foundation.
>>
>> I find the base/feet especially attractive--though I'm not really sure
>> how to saw a semicircular-arc on the front and rear of the feet:
>> I was thinking it would be easier if I drilled a small hole/dimple at the
>> "center" of the circe having the semicircular-arc on its
>> circumference--then I could build a jig that would allow me to rotate the
>> piece on my BS. Do you think Hack did something like that?
>> I believe Hack uses double-tenons and pegged single-tenon joinery
>> throughout his bench (I better not be in a hurry, and I better
>> practice...). He says the bench is "rock solid".
>>
>> I thought the base should be made of hard wood, but not sure what type.
>> Suggestions welcomed! I was just looking at a wood guide that Woodsmith
>> sent me, and it says "Yellow Pine is Hard" (wow, that comes as a surprise
>> to me!). Maybe SYP throughout? Other ideas?
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Bill
>
>
> I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple, 2x4
> and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
> stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
You don't like the feet on the bench I linked to above? His vertical
supports are each joined
with double T&M joinery. You must be in a hurry! ; )
Bill
> But I am also considering the same design and using BB plywood for the
> whole thing, just laminate/build up to achieve 2x4 and 2x6 dimensions.
> SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder
> than poplar for instance.
>
>
>
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder
> than poplar for instance.
>
The "index card" that Woodsmith sent me lists White Pine as soft and Yellow
Pine as hard. It just occurred to me: maybe they mean in the sense of
actually working the wood, rather than it's "botanical classification"!
Bill
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 3 Apr 2010 05:36:40 -0500, the infamous "Leon"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple, 2x4
>>and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
>>stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
>>But I am also considering the same design and using BB plywood for the
>>whole
>>thing, just laminate/build up to achieve 2x4 and 2x6 dimensions.
>>SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder
>>than
>>poplar for instance.
>
> Oh, please. Just go get the http://fwd4.me/KBx and do the gloat,
> damnit. We can handle it. ;)
You really would like one of those? Better not try to plane on it...
And did you see the feet and legs? Oh, the humanity...
>
> --
> It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most
> intelligent,
> but the one most responsive to change.
> -- Charles
> Darwin
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/20552/the-workbench-of-a-lifetime
I'm not really sure how
> to saw a semicircular-arc on the front and rear of the feet:
> I was thinking it would be easier if I drilled a small hole/dimple at the
> "center" of the circe having the semicircular-arc on its
> circumference--then I could build a jig that would allow me to rotate the
> piece on my BS.
Okay, assume the problem is to "cut a 3.5" radius arc off the end of a 4 by
4 with a BS (note that 4 by 4s are actually about 3.5" by 3.5"). Assume 1/4"
blade--so the blade is a non-issue.
I tried using my noggin for about 20 minutes and here's what I came up with:
1) Hammer a 3+" nail though a suitably large piece of plywood and clamp that
to the BS table
with the nail vertical and about 3.5" to the right of the cutting edge of
the blade.
2) Hammer 1 or 2 small nails into the side vertically aligned, , and about
3.5" from the end of the 4 by 4.
(the hole left by these nails will not be visible in the project).
3) Now the 4 by 4 can be held and rotated with the meeting point of the
short nails and the workpiece
held flush against the long nail (and the supporting plywood underneath)
through the cut.
Please critique, if you will, my solution to the problem. This fixture/jig
surely represents some of the most out-of-the-box
thinking I have ever done in my brief experience in woodworking (I've a long
way to go, huh? : ) ).
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It goes without saying, the router is in a table.
>
I'm glad you mentioned that--though it will be difficult to turn my back on
an idea which makes so much sense.
The technique you described has been printed and saved, maybe for use on
bench #2; surely for use somewhere.
> Definitely not free hand work.
>
> Lew
In answer to those that asked, there are four 4 by 4s, about 30"
long--hopefully not too unwieldy. If I start with one 36" long, I can
practice the cut! : )
Right after I posted the description of "my solution", it occurred to me
that rather than using "2 small nails", I should nail a small wooden block
to the side of the workpiece to leverage against. At first, I thought
"clamp a small wooden block", but reading the posts I better realize that 4
by 4s are not toys...
Bill
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>Okay, assume the problem is to "cut a 3.5" radius arc off the end of a 4
>>by
>>4 with a BS (note that 4 by 4s are actually about 3.5" by 3.5"). Assume
>>1/4"
>>blade--so the blade is a non-issue.
>
> It'll be extremely dicey with an 8' tubafore and nigh onta impossible
> with a 20' length. What's your length, Bill?
Thanks for your replies, Larry, you provided several helpful comments that I
found quite insightful.
I just have two, 30" four-by-fours, seeking a quarter-circle on each end.
Like the feet in this workbench:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=33067
Bill
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>Like the feet in this workbench:
>>
>>http://www.finewoodworking.com/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=33067
>
> Yeah, easy enough on the bandsaw. You could pivot the piece on the
> nail on your locator board instead of using extra nailsif you wanted.
> That's what I'd probably do.
>
> I cut these freehand, bottoms and ends. http://fwd4.me/6oE
>
Nice. I like the "hollow" in the base between the ends of the feet.
Garrett Hack sketches a hollow
in his workbench diagram, but the feature does not appear in his actual
bench.
Intuitively, seems like stability would be easier to obtain with hollow
(less contact area) but that the
hollow could create a point of weakness. Maybe there's no such thing as a
weak 4 by 4, I'm not sure.
I like the look of it though.
Bill
> --
> In order that people may be happy in their work, these three things are
> needed: They must be fit for it. They must not do too much of it. And
> they must have a sense of success in it.
> -- John Ruskin, Pre-Raphaelitism, 1850
Leon wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>>
>>> I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple,
>>> 2x4 and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
>>> stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
>> You don't like the feet on the bench I linked to above? His vertical
>> supports are each joined
>> with double T&M joinery. You must be in a hurry! ; )
>>
>
> That is a fine design but I want a work bench...to build projects. I don't
> want a work bench project. ;~)
I understand completely. In my situation, I don't mind undertaking the
workbench project as a project. I know I'll learn a lot from it. I
already have.
Best,
Bill
On Sun, 4 Apr 2010 14:40:50 -0400, the infamous "Bill"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>>Okay, assume the problem is to "cut a 3.5" radius arc off the end of a 4
>>>by
>>>4 with a BS (note that 4 by 4s are actually about 3.5" by 3.5"). Assume
>>>1/4"
>>>blade--so the blade is a non-issue.
>>
>> It'll be extremely dicey with an 8' tubafore and nigh onta impossible
>> with a 20' length. What's your length, Bill?
>
>
>Thanks for your replies, Larry, you provided several helpful comments that I
>found quite insightful.
Thanks and jewelcome.
>I just have two, 30" four-by-fours, seeking a quarter-circle on each end.
>Like the feet in this workbench:
>
>http://www.finewoodworking.com/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=33067
Yeah, easy enough on the bandsaw. You could pivot the piece on the
nail on your locator board instead of using extra nailsif you wanted.
That's what I'd probably do.
I cut these freehand, bottoms and ends. http://fwd4.me/6oE
--
In order that people may be happy in their work, these three things are
needed: They must be fit for it. They must not do too much of it. And
they must have a sense of success in it.
-- John Ruskin, Pre-Raphaelitism, 1850
On Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:05:48 -0500, the infamous "Leon"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 3 Apr 2010 05:36:40 -0500, the infamous "Leon"
>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>I am considering a simple design that WoodSmith on TV showed. Simple, 2x4
>>>and 2x6 construction for the bottom with MDF reinforcement panels to
>>>stabilize the legs and a 4 layer MDF top.
>>>But I am also considering the same design and using BB plywood for the
>>>whole
>>>thing, just laminate/build up to achieve 2x4 and 2x6 dimensions.
>>>SYP is pretty hard considering it is clasified as a hsoft wood, harder
>>>than
>>>poplar for instance.
>>
>> Oh, please. Just go get the http://fwd4.me/KBx and do the gloat,
>> damnit. We can handle it. ;)
>
>
>Ok ok ok ok,, I'll go get "2".
Right. One for each hand? Seems reasonable.
>I'll tell my wife you siad it would be ok. ;~)
Don't you DARE!
--
In order that people may be happy in their work, these three things are
needed: They must be fit for it. They must not do too much of it. And
they must have a sense of success in it.
-- John Ruskin, Pre-Raphaelitism, 1850