Resawing on the band saw

On Tue, 5 May 2015 14:40:57 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote:

>I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have
>tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm
>currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.
>
>I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible,
>and have readjusted the guides many times.
>
>Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence.
>No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or
>the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next
>time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle.
>
>I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator,
>to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference.
>
>I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it
>freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just
>cutting freehand?
>
>Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I kind
>of need the fence for that.
>
>Is it just the saw?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Anthony Watson
>www.mountainsoftware.com
>www.watsondiy.com


Did you ever resolve the tracking problem that had plagued your saw for 7 years?

http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/grizzly-g0555-bandsaw-tracking-problems-778938-.htm

If not, your success resawing green logs will be marginal at best.

On 05/05/2015 07:40 AM, HerHusband wrote:
> I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have
> tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm
> currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.
>
> I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible,
> and have readjusted the guides many times.
>
> Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence.
> No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or
> the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next
> time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle.
>
> I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator,
> to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference.
>
> I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it
> freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just
> cutting freehand?
>
> Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I kind
> of need the fence for that.
>
> Is it just the saw?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Anthony Watson
> www.mountainsoftware.com
> www.watsondiy.com
>

I have the same saw with a 6" riser and the griz resaw fence. I use the
1/2" woodslicer blade and have no issues resawing. I had to spend some
time getting the tension set up when I add the riser, but other than
that, I'm a happy camper. I do make sure the blade tracks in the center
of the tires.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 05/05/2015 12:56 PM, HerHusband wrote:
> Doug,
>
>> I have the same saw with a 6" riser and the griz resaw fence.
>
> Yep, that's the same setup I have.
>
>> I use the 1/2" woodslicer blade and have no issues resawing.
>
> The woodslicer worked nicely for dry wood, but it wasn't working well with
> green wood (logs) for me. The 3/8" green wood blade from Highland
> Woodworking has been performing very well with fresh cut logs.
>
> I cut a few logs from a holly tree and a plum tree last October. The plum
> wood is dry nice and flat, but the holly is really cupping badly. I will be
> lucky to get 1/2" finished boards out of the 1" thick rough cuts. I don't
> know what I'll do with it anyway, it was mostly an experiment to try
> something new.
>
>> I had to spend some time getting the tension set up
>
> What tension do you use with your Woodslicer? I have mine set to roughly
> the 3/4" mark on the indicator for the 3/8" blade and it still seems like
> it flexes a lot. I didn't want to compress the spring completely.


I adjusted the tension so much to account for the 1/2" difference in
blade length because of the riser, I'm not sure the indicator has much
meaning. I followed the Highland article suggestions on tensioning.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bandsaw-resawing-tips.html

>
>> I do make sure the blade tracks in the center of the tires.
>
> I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track in the
> center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off the bottom
> wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but was afraid to
> shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires and added one more
> shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the center of both wheels.
> I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel shimmed out 3/8", but it seems
> to work OK.
>
> Anthony Watson
> www.mountainsoftware.com
> www.watsondiy.com
>



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:mibd0e$n96$1
@dont-email.me:

> On Tue, 5 May 2015 19:56:10 +0000 (UTC)
> HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track
>> in the center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off
>> the bottom wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but
>> was afraid to shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires
>> and added one more shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the
>> center of both wheels. I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel
>> shimmed out 3/8", but it seems to work OK.
>
> i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train
> something sounds wrong there
>

That's my thought as well. Are the two wheels lined up in all 3 axis?
If you've got a riser block, they can sometimes make it difficult to get
the two halves of the saw aligned properly because of the pin.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 05/05/2015 05:20 PM, HerHusband wrote:
>>> i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train
>>> something sounds wrong there
>
>> That's my thought as well. Are the two wheels lined up in all 3 axis?
>> If you've got a riser block, they can sometimes make it difficult to get
>> the two halves of the saw aligned properly because of the pin.
>
> The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top wheel. The
> only way I have been able to get the upper and lower wheels close to
> coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel. I currently have three shims
> behind the lower wheel, for a total thickness of about 3/8". The blade now
> tracks in the center of both wheels, the first time since I bought the saw.
>
> Grizzly suggested shimming the riser block, or removing the alignment pin
> and shifting the upper half. I thought shimming might tilt the blade and
> guards at another angle, front to back. Right now they're perfectly
> vertical.
>
> If I removed the alignment pin I was worried it might be difficult to line
> up the upper and lower half and keep them there over time. The only thing
> holding the two halves together is a single big bolt. It would also be odd
> to have the riser block shifted from the lower half of the saw.

My wheels were perfectly co-planer after installing the riser block?

>
> I just installed the poly tires and the third shim this last weekend, so
> maybe I'll try adjusting the fence for drift again.
>
> Anthony Watson
> www.mountainsoftware.com
> www.watsondiy.com
>



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 05/05/2015 05:20 PM, HerHusband wrote:
>>> i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train
>>> something sounds wrong there
>
>> That's my thought as well. Are the two wheels lined up in all 3 axis?
>> If you've got a riser block, they can sometimes make it difficult to get
>> the two halves of the saw aligned properly because of the pin.
>
> The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top wheel. The
> only way I have been able to get the upper and lower wheels close to
> coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel. I currently have three shims
> behind the lower wheel, for a total thickness of about 3/8". The blade now
> tracks in the center of both wheels, the first time since I bought the saw.
>
> Grizzly suggested shimming the riser block, or removing the alignment pin
> and shifting the upper half. I thought shimming might tilt the blade and
> guards at another angle, front to back. Right now they're perfectly
> vertical.
>
> If I removed the alignment pin I was worried it might be difficult to line
> up the upper and lower half and keep them there over time. The only thing
> holding the two halves together is a single big bolt. It would also be odd
> to have the riser block shifted from the lower half of the saw.

Were you wheels co-planer before installing the riser?

>
> I just installed the poly tires and the third shim this last weekend, so
> maybe I'll try adjusting the fence for drift again.
>
> Anthony Watson
> www.mountainsoftware.com
> www.watsondiy.com
>



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 05/05/2015 10:18 PM, HerHusband wrote:
>>> The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top
>>> wheel. The only way I have been able to get the upper and lower
>>> wheels close to coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel.
>
>> Were you wheels co-planer before installing the riser?
>
> I bought the riser at the same time I bought the saw, and installed the
> riser as I was assembling the saw. I never used the saw without the riser.
>
> As I mentioned, this is my first bandsaw. I didn't use the saw much during
> the first year or two, so I only checked if the wheels were coplaner when I
> started having so many problems with the saw.
>
> It didn't help that the first blade I ordered with the saw was damaged
> somehow and would not track or cut a straight line. It was a brand new
> blade so it never crossed my mind that it could be defective. I was
> reluctant to spend money on another blade, but the saw was unusable with
> that blade.
>
> Needless to say, I have not had the best experience with this bandsaw... :)
>
> I keep trying to tune it up so it will work better, buying better blades,
> shimming the wheels, installing polyurethane tires, etc. It is usable now,
> but still not what I would consider a precision woodworking tool.

Have you contacted Griz? Their support is very good IMO.

I've had zero problems with my G0555 with riser block.

>
> Anthony Watson
> www.mountainsoftware.com
> www.watsondiy.com
>



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:


> Yep, they mentioned it could be worn out tires. I haven't used the saw
> that much, but I upgraded to polyurethane tires anyway. I haven't had
> a chance to really work with the saw since then.
>
> They said I could remove the alignment pin from the riser, but I was
> concerned it would be difficult to get things aligned and keep it
> there without the pin.
>
> Then also said I could shim one side of the riser, but I was concerned
> that might tilt the upper half at a weird angle.
>
> I still might give those ideas a try when I get the chance, just to
> see what effect it has.
>
> Anthony Watson
> www.mountainsoftware.com
> www.watsondiy.com

Don't worry about the pin. If your Grizzly is like my Jet (many are--I
used a Powermatic riser kit), the pin is just an alignment guide. If
it's causing problems, remove it. The big bolt that holds both pieces
together will hold things together just fine.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Wed, 6 May 2015 05:18:14 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
<[email protected]> wrote:

<SNIP>
>
>As I mentioned, this is my first bandsaw. I didn't use the saw much during
>the first year or two, so I only checked if the wheels were coplaner when I
>started having so many problems with the saw.
>
<Snip>

>Needless to say, I have not had the best experience with this bandsaw... :)
>
>I keep trying to tune it up so it will work better, buying better blades,
>shimming the wheels, installing polyurethane tires, etc. It is usable now,
>but still not what I would consider a precision woodworking tool.
>
Are you familiar with Carter Products? http://www.carterproducts.com/
They have been around forever and started out by producing better BS
wheels. They have some very innovative bandsaw products, however,
that isn't the point. Check out this video. It is by a Carter Rep.,
but he is not trying to sell anything - just telling/showing how he
sets up a BS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

You might want to put your saw back to "stock" and try his method.

Jerry O.

"woodchucker" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>I did the same to my delta years ago, when I told a group on lumberjocks
>that I received a ton of flack telling me that doesn't work, and is
>necessary. Amazing that people will tell you that it can't solve your
>problem even though it did.

I've run into that kind of thing numerous times... it's annoying!

"HerHusband" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

>I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have

>Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence.
>No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or
>the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next
>time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle.

It could be the saw but I'd try a couple things first....

One, for sawing small logs I found that a sled generally works better. I use
a piece of sacrificial plywood, screw the log to the plywood, and run the
plywood up against the saw's fence. I seem to have a knack for setting up
the blade such that blade drift is almost never an issue. However, with some
blades the teeth don't seem to be set correctly/evenly and in those cases I
do make allowances in setting up the fence for the drift.

For re-sawing boards, I made up what amounts to a post fence out of wood. A
plywood base with a T shaped board that serves as the fence. The bottom of
the T is rounded off a bit and the top of the T serves to keep the fence
vertical. The plywood base is clamped to the saw table in use and the board
to be re-sawn rides against the bottom of the T.

If the blade is bowing despite the tension setting that suggests that the
feed rate is too fast for the saw and blade. With some boards I've had to
feed at a painfully slow rate on my 18" Jet... This is where big, rigid saws
with big motors and wide blades having high beam strength and low tooth
counts shine... Towards that end I've got a slow going project to expand my
lumber shed and set up the 36" Crescent saw with a 5 HP Baldor motor that
I've had in storage... Then again, I know so many guys with bandsaw mills
that I may never finish the project!

On 5/5/2015 9:40 AM, HerHusband wrote:
> I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have
> tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm
> currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.

Probably way way to narrow of a blade. The more the blade twists the
more it will go off track of a straight line. Logs tend to be
inconstant with moisture content, dryer in some spots and wetter in
others. This can cause the blade to want to wander. A wider blade is
less likely. If I resaw 6" or more I go with at least a 1" blade.


>
> I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible,
> and have readjusted the guides many times.
>
> Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence.
> No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or
> the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next
> time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle.
>
> I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator,
> to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference.
>
> I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it
> freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just
> cutting freehand?

If you are taxing the saw/blade nothing is going to give you a good cut.

On 5/5/2015 6:51 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Tue, 05 May 2015 16:04:07 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>>> tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm
>>> currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.
>>
>> Probably way way to narrow of a blade. The more the blade twists the
>> more it will go off track of a straight line. Logs tend to be
>> inconstant with moisture content, dryer in some spots and wetter in
>> others. This can cause the blade to want to wander. A wider blade is
>> less likely. If I resaw 6" or more I go with at least a 1" blade.
>
> But a 14" saw won't take a 1" blade (1/8" to 3/4" according to Grizzly).

Right. He may be trying to cut way too much log for the blade and saw.


> And from what I've read, even a 3/4" blade can bend the frame of a 14"
> bandsaw. A riser makes the problem worse.

Right. Well trying to tension a 3/4" blade might bend the frame. And of
the blade gets hot it is going to stretch and throw the tension off
again....



>
> I used to cut a lot of green wood for turning. I wound up spraying Dri-
> Cote on the blade to minimize the sap buildup. That helped some.

Humm I bet that did/does... I now have ceramic guides and those tend to
keep the blade clean.

>> I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and
>> have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer
>> blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.

> how long you had it
> i would check the basic assembly of the saw to make sure it was done
> with the right amount of TLC

I bought it about 7 years ago. I have checked and double-checked everything
I can think of. I even took everything apart a couple times to make sure it
was put together correctly.

Unfortunately, I have had ongoing issues with the saw since I bought it.
This is the only bandsaw I have ever used, so I figured I just wasn't
setting it up right. I have researched and readjusted numerous times and
still have problems. It doesn't seem like it should be this difficult.

That said, I have resawn a lot of wood and have just learned to cut it
fairly oversize and spend more time with a planer. :)

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

John,

> One, for sawing small logs I found that a sled generally works better.
> I use a piece of sacrificial plywood, screw the log to the plywood,
> and run the plywood up against the saw's fence.

Yep, that's basically the technique I have used too. But I run into
problems if the fence doesn't match the blade drift.

> If the blade is bowing despite the tension setting that suggests
> that the feed rate is too fast for the saw and blade.

Perhaps, but I do have bowing issues when cutting freehand. I only
encounter the bowing when using the fence. The saw isn't slowing or bogging
down while cutting, at least until the bow gets too severe binding the
blade in the workpiece.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Doug,

> I have the same saw with a 6" riser and the griz resaw fence.

Yep, that's the same setup I have.

> I use the 1/2" woodslicer blade and have no issues resawing.

The woodslicer worked nicely for dry wood, but it wasn't working well with
green wood (logs) for me. The 3/8" green wood blade from Highland
Woodworking has been performing very well with fresh cut logs.

I cut a few logs from a holly tree and a plum tree last October. The plum
wood is dry nice and flat, but the holly is really cupping badly. I will be
lucky to get 1/2" finished boards out of the 1" thick rough cuts. I don't
know what I'll do with it anyway, it was mostly an experiment to try
something new.

> I had to spend some time getting the tension set up

What tension do you use with your Woodslicer? I have mine set to roughly
the 3/4" mark on the indicator for the 3/8" blade and it still seems like
it flexes a lot. I didn't want to compress the spring completely.

> I do make sure the blade tracks in the center of the tires.

I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track in the
center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off the bottom
wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but was afraid to
shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires and added one more
shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the center of both wheels.
I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel shimmed out 3/8", but it seems
to work OK.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

>> i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train
>> something sounds wrong there

> That's my thought as well. Are the two wheels lined up in all 3 axis?
> If you've got a riser block, they can sometimes make it difficult to get
> the two halves of the saw aligned properly because of the pin.

The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top wheel. The
only way I have been able to get the upper and lower wheels close to
coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel. I currently have three shims
behind the lower wheel, for a total thickness of about 3/8". The blade now
tracks in the center of both wheels, the first time since I bought the saw.

Grizzly suggested shimming the riser block, or removing the alignment pin
and shifting the upper half. I thought shimming might tilt the blade and
guards at another angle, front to back. Right now they're perfectly
vertical.

If I removed the alignment pin I was worried it might be difficult to line
up the upper and lower half and keep them there over time. The only thing
holding the two halves together is a single big bolt. It would also be odd
to have the riser block shifted from the lower half of the saw.

I just installed the poly tires and the third shim this last weekend, so
maybe I'll try adjusting the fence for drift again.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

>> The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top
>> wheel. The only way I have been able to get the upper and lower
>> wheels close to coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel.

> Were you wheels co-planer before installing the riser?

I bought the riser at the same time I bought the saw, and installed the
riser as I was assembling the saw. I never used the saw without the riser.

As I mentioned, this is my first bandsaw. I didn't use the saw much during
the first year or two, so I only checked if the wheels were coplaner when I
started having so many problems with the saw.

It didn't help that the first blade I ordered with the saw was damaged
somehow and would not track or cut a straight line. It was a brand new
blade so it never crossed my mind that it could be defective. I was
reluctant to spend money on another blade, but the saw was unusable with
that blade.

Needless to say, I have not had the best experience with this bandsaw... :)

I keep trying to tune it up so it will work better, buying better blades,
shimming the wheels, installing polyurethane tires, etc. It is usable now,
but still not what I would consider a precision woodworking tool.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

> Have you contacted Griz? Their support is very good IMO.
> I've had zero problems with my G0555 with riser block.

Yep, they mentioned it could be worn out tires. I haven't used the saw that
much, but I upgraded to polyurethane tires anyway. I haven't had a chance
to really work with the saw since then.

They said I could remove the alignment pin from the riser, but I was
concerned it would be difficult to get things aligned and keep it there
without the pin.

Then also said I could shim one side of the riser, but I was concerned that
might tilt the upper half at a weird angle.

I still might give those ideas a try when I get the chance, just to see
what effect it has.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

> Did you ever resolve the tracking problem that had plagued your saw
> for 7 years?
> http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/grizzly-g0555-bandsaw-tracking
> -problems-778938-.htm
> If not, your success resawing green logs will be marginal at best.

Hmm... That's funny. I didn't remember complaining about the same problem
last year. But to answer your question, nope, still having issues getting
it setup correctly.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

> I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and
> have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade.
> I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.
>
> I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as
> possible, and have readjusted the guides many times.
>
> Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel
> fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece
> binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once,
> but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle.
>
> I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw
> indicator, to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes
> much difference.
>
> I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following
> it freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead
> of just cutting freehand?
>
> Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I
> kind of need the fence for that.
>
> Is it just the saw?

Just a follow-up to my earlier post...

I dismantled the G0555 band saw and drilled out the holes for the
alignment pins. I think the original holes were 1/4", I oversized them to
3/8". This gave me a tiny bit of play to adjust the upper half of the
frame.

I put the saw back together and tightened the blade. Both wheels are
coplaner and the blade tracks in the center of both wheels.

I still needed the shims behind the lower wheel, so shifting the upper
half slightly didn't make a lot of difference.

Anyway, I adjusted the fence for the blade drift and resawed a couple of
small 2x8 boards with no difficulties. Nice and flat, no bowing in the
middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be working
as it should.

Thanks,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

>> the middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be
>> working as it should.
>
> now you can sell it with integrity and principles intact

While I would like to upgrade to a better saw, it's not in my budget right
now. Besides, even I were to sell it I would let the buyer know any issues
I have had with it.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On Tue, 5 May 2015 14:40:57 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote:

> I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and
> have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer
> blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.


how long you had it

i would check the basic assembly of the saw to make sure it was done
with the right amount of TLC

just like buying any low priced chinese equpiments you have to check
it all out fo ryour self

On Tue, 05 May 2015 11:50:24 -0400, John Grossbohlin wrote:

> If the blade is bowing despite the tension setting that suggests that
> the feed rate is too fast for the saw and blade. With some boards I've
> had to feed at a painfully slow rate on my 18" Jet...

You're probably right. It took me a long time to learn to slow down on
my 14" saw :-).

HerHusband wrote:
> I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and
> have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer
> blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.
>
> I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as
> possible, and have readjusted the guides many times.
>
> Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel
> fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the
> piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine
> once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift
> angle.

I agree with John about using a sled for the logs. You may be getting bow
because the "verticality" of what you are cutting varies.

I prefer a pivot for the little bit of resawing I do...the pivot is one
point, my left thumb is another. I have also used a short fence, worked
pretty well. By "short fence" I mean a fence only on the infeed side.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Tue, 5 May 2015 19:56:10 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote:

> I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track
> in the center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off
> the bottom wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but
> was afraid to shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires
> and added one more shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the
> center of both wheels. I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel
> shimmed out 3/8", but it seems to work OK.

i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train
something sounds wrong there

On Tue, 05 May 2015 16:04:07 -0500, Leon wrote:

>> tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm
>> currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.
>
> Probably way way to narrow of a blade. The more the blade twists the
> more it will go off track of a straight line. Logs tend to be
> inconstant with moisture content, dryer in some spots and wetter in
> others. This can cause the blade to want to wander. A wider blade is
> less likely. If I resaw 6" or more I go with at least a 1" blade.

But a 14" saw won't take a 1" blade (1/8" to 3/4" according to Grizzly).
And from what I've read, even a 3/4" blade can bend the frame of a 14"
bandsaw. A riser makes the problem worse.

I used to cut a lot of green wood for turning. I wound up spraying Dri-
Cote on the blade to minimize the sap buildup. That helped some.

On Wed, 6 May 2015 14:48:47 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote:

> I still might give those ideas a try when I get the chance, just to
> see what effect it has.

i bet you may have already considered that you got a lemon
it can happen

if the saw structure wasn't properly aged and stress-relieved
it could have a permanent warp
so obviously no amount of shimming or adjusting will keep it aligned


i have a delta and the "C" is two-piece casting
i don't know about your saw but it's possible if it has big
castings that they were not aged or stress-relieved enough
or incorrectly

some manufacturers have been known to rush things out the door and they
don't get the attention they need

maybe if yours it two piece you can adjust it where they meet

when i got my used delta it was still new but had been left outside
for a bit

the previous owner made some cosmetic modifications to it but i
spent some time getting it to cut straight and it is good enough

but i do not do any resawing

On Wed, 6 May 2015 20:35:52 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hmm... That's funny. I didn't remember complaining about the same
> problem last year. But to answer your question, nope, still having
> issues getting it setup correctly.

you will have to get it setup now
because of you try to sell it the buyer will go looking for answers
on how to adjust it and find all your posts

i agree with going back to stock setup and proceed from there making
only small changes then test and repeat if needed

On Wed, 06 May 2015 14:48:47 +0000, HerHusband wrote:

> They said I could remove the alignment pin from the riser, but I was
> concerned it would be difficult to get things aligned and keep it there
> without the pin.

I'm not familiar with the setup, but couldn't you remove the pin, get
everything lined up, clamp it there, and drill a new hole through the
riser and what it sits on?

After getting that all tightened up, I'd be tempted to enlarge the
original holes to where they lined up for a larger size bolt and fasten
it together there as well.

On 5/5/15 1:56 PM, HerHusband wrote:
> Doug,
>
>> I have the same saw with a 6" riser and the griz resaw fence.
>
> Yep, that's the same setup I have.
>
>> I use the 1/2" woodslicer blade and have no issues resawing.

Be sure to verify that both ends of the riser block are parallel to each
other and square to the blocks axis.

-BR


>
> The woodslicer worked nicely for dry wood, but it wasn't working well with
> green wood (logs) for me. The 3/8" green wood blade from Highland
> Woodworking has been performing very well with fresh cut logs.
>
> I cut a few logs from a holly tree and a plum tree last October. The plum
> wood is dry nice and flat, but the holly is really cupping badly. I will be
> lucky to get 1/2" finished boards out of the 1" thick rough cuts. I don't
> know what I'll do with it anyway, it was mostly an experiment to try
> something new.
>
>> I had to spend some time getting the tension set up
>
> What tension do you use with your Woodslicer? I have mine set to roughly
> the 3/4" mark on the indicator for the 3/8" blade and it still seems like
> it flexes a lot. I didn't want to compress the spring completely.
>
>> I do make sure the blade tracks in the center of the tires.
>
> I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track in the
> center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off the bottom
> wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but was afraid to
> shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires and added one more
> shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the center of both wheels.
> I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel shimmed out 3/8", but it seems
> to work OK.
>
> Anthony Watson
> www.mountainsoftware.com
> www.watsondiy.com
>


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---

On Fri, 15 May 2015 00:01:37 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote:

> the middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be
> working as it should.

now you can sell it with integrity and principles intact

On 5/14/2015 8:01 PM, HerHusband wrote:
>> I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and
>> have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade.
>> I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs.
>>
>> I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as
>> possible, and have readjusted the guides many times.
>>
>> Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel
>> fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece
>> binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once,
>> but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle.
>>
>> I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw
>> indicator, to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes
>> much difference.
>>
>> I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following
>> it freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead
>> of just cutting freehand?
>>
>> Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I
>> kind of need the fence for that.
>>
>> Is it just the saw?
>
> Just a follow-up to my earlier post...
>
> I dismantled the G0555 band saw and drilled out the holes for the
> alignment pins. I think the original holes were 1/4", I oversized them to
> 3/8". This gave me a tiny bit of play to adjust the upper half of the
> frame.
>
> I put the saw back together and tightened the blade. Both wheels are
> coplaner and the blade tracks in the center of both wheels.
>
> I still needed the shims behind the lower wheel, so shifting the upper
> half slightly didn't make a lot of difference.
>
> Anyway, I adjusted the fence for the blade drift and resawed a couple of
> small 2x8 boards with no difficulties. Nice and flat, no bowing in the
> middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be working
> as it should.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Anthony Watson
> www.mountainsoftware.com
> www.watsondiy.com
>
Thanks for the followup.
I did the same to my delta years ago, when I told a group on lumberjocks
that I received a ton of flack telling me that doesn't work, and is
necessary. Amazing that people will tell you that it can't solve your
problem even though it did.

--
Jeff