John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting
>> the paint off 4/4's?
>> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original
>> wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and
>> install it with the clean side out?
>
> A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives
> of a planer...
I'm not doubting you because I don't know but what could be in paint
that would damage steel knives? Not the oil...not the
resin...titanium dioxide?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sep 8, 3:53 pm, "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:
> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint
> off 4/4's?
> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
> Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
> clean side out?
I'd take it outside and hit it with Zip-Strip. Fast and easy. With
painted wood, hidden nails are as much a hazard to your tooling
as abrasive paint. If you're using carbide cutters, nails are also
liable to create shrapnel, particularly hardened masonry nails.
On Sep 8, 6:33 pm, "Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote:
> "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's?
> > I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
> > Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out?
>
> > TIA
>
> Start with paint stripper and a scraper. It also keeps the paint in one peice and dust-free so it can
> be safely disposed of, and it sounds like the wood is flat sided.
> Once you can see wood you can tell if there are nails. Get those out or punch them in deep before
> using your planer.
>
> Does anyone know, was lead just used in glosses and topcoats, or do you find it in undercoats and
> primers too?
Ddin't know it was used in clear topcoats, but it was used to
make very stable very opaque white lead, yellow lead, and red lead
pigments.
"noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the
> paint off 4/4's?
> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
> Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
> clean side out?
A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives of a
planer... I'd plane the unpainted side and hide the painted side.
John
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%vEEi.2277$He1.727@trnddc03...
> John Grossbohlin wrote:
>> "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting
>>> the paint off 4/4's?
>>> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original
>>> wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and
>>> install it with the clean side out?
>>
>> A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives
>> of a planer...
>
> I'm not doubting you because I don't know but what could be in paint
> that would damage steel knives? Not the oil...not the
> resin...titanium dioxide?
Silica (basically sand) calcium carbonate, talc, and kaolin gives paint it's
body and durability these days. The silica in particular acts as an abrasive
and wears jointer and planer knives quickly and the other fillers aren't
much kinder.
The last time I tried to run painted wood through my jointer will be the
last time. I thought I could get away with jointing the edges of a
pre-primed board that had been ripped on the table saw. Wrong... I ended up
with two grooves worn in the knives that left humps in the surface of the
boards run over it later.
http://www.u-s-silica.com/groundsilica.htm
http://www.innovations-report.com/html/reports/materials_science/report-59277.html
John
noreaster wrote:
> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint
> off 4/4's?
> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
> Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
> clean side out?
If it's not critical to get the paint off (ie you're not gluing it and
the back side isn't visible) then leaving the paint on is likely your
best bet.
Alternately, you could just shave off a sixteenth with a big flat bit in
your router. The carbide will hold up to the paint better than steel
planer knives.
I've also done it with scrapers and an angle grinder, although with
abrasives I'm worried that some of it will get stuck in the wood and
nick the planer blades.
Chris
"noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint off 4/4's?
> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
> Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the clean side out?
>
>
> TIA
Start with paint stripper and a scraper. It also keeps the paint in one peice and dust-free so it can
be safely disposed of, and it sounds like the wood is flat sided.
Once you can see wood you can tell if there are nails. Get those out or punch them in deep before
using your planer.
Does anyone know, was lead just used in glosses and topcoats, or do you find it in undercoats and
primers too?
"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the
>> paint off 4/4's?
>> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
>> Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
>> clean side out?
>>
>>
>> TIA
>
> Start with paint stripper and a scraper. It also keeps the paint in one
> peice and dust-free so it can be safely disposed of, and it sounds like
> the wood is flat sided.
> Once you can see wood you can tell if there are nails. Get those out or
> punch them in deep before using your planer.
>
> Does anyone know, was lead just used in glosses and topcoats, or do you
> find it in undercoats and primers too?
>
A set of planer blades costs me about $45,00. So I remove the paint before
using the planer.
I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff.
When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun. If the
coating is very thick, I use a flexible blade scraper.
When the coating of paint is not as thick and more so with latex paint I use
a normal scraper and I maintain a sharp edge and angle with a bastard when
the scrapper becomes dull. I is useful to have various sizes and shape of
crappers.
I have use carbide blade with some degree of satisfaction. The problem is
to re-sharpen the edge.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff.
>>
>>When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun.
>
> If you're concerned about lead, removing it with heat isn't the wisest way
> to
> go about it. Chemical strippers and chem-resistant gloves would be a
> better
> idea.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Each case has to be analysed. Each project is handled differently. A 50
years old plus exterior front door used on a house compare to an old French
finish on a walnut dinning set are very different. As much as I can I try
to avoid using chemical. I do not use heat all the time and when I do I
wear a proper mask. Most of the jobs are done with hand scrapers of various
shapes and configurations. I have used chemicals and learned that using
scrapers takes me about the same time or better.
"noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so
>nasty.
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff.
>>>>
>>>>When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun.
>>>
>>> If you're concerned about lead, removing it with heat isn't the wisest
>>> way to
>>> go about it. Chemical strippers and chem-resistant gloves would be a
>>> better
>>> idea.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Regards,
>>> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>>>
>>> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
>>
>> Each case has to be analysed. Each project is handled differently. A
>> 50 years old plus exterior front door used on a house compare to an old
>> French finish on a walnut dinning set are very different. As much as I
>> can I try to avoid using chemical. I do not use heat all the time and
>> when I do I wear a proper mask. Most of the jobs are done with hand
>> scrapers of various shapes and configurations. I have used chemicals and
>> learned that using scrapers takes me about the same time or better.
>>
>
>I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so
nasty.
So nasty and I have to be careful not to rub my eyes with my fingers.
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so nasty.
>
> So nasty and I have to be careful not to rub my eyes with my fingers.
>
Yeah but you'd do the same if you had treacle on your hands, or had handled chillis. No need to be
frightened of this stuff.
The remover that is a jelly consistency is not so bad. Wear gloves if you feel you need it, but
usually its enough to just wash your hands in running water if you get more than just drops on your
hands, mainly to avoid touching painted surfaces you want to keep.
On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:53:11 -0400, "noreaster"
<noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:
>How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint
>off 4/4's?
>I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
>Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
>clean side out?
>
>
>TIA
>
A lot. I learned about this last June. Too much of a hurry, put a
wide painted board through my planer. The board had been on my house
since it was built 60+ years ago. I got 4 passes on freshly sharpened
knives before they just wouldn't work anymore.
Live and learn.
The knives have been resharpened.
I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead.
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:53:11 -0400, "noreaster"
> <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:
>
>>How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the
>>paint
>>off 4/4's?
>>I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
>>Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
>>clean side out?
>>
>
> What kind of paint? Lead may be present.
>
> Personally, if I was relatively sure no lead paint was present, I
> would probably strip the paint with a belt sander, then plane it.
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
> ---------------------------------------------
Like Lead. It has a sweetesh metal smell/taste, if you can smell/taste
it you have a real problem case.
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:05:54 -0400, "noreaster"
> <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:
>
>>I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead.
>>
>
> What does lead paint smell like?
>
> Pete
I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was so
nasty.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff.
>>>
>>>When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun.
>>
>> If you're concerned about lead, removing it with heat isn't the wisest
>> way to
>> go about it. Chemical strippers and chem-resistant gloves would be a
>> better
>> idea.
>>
>> --
>> Regards,
>> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>>
>> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
>
> Each case has to be analysed. Each project is handled differently. A
> 50 years old plus exterior front door used on a house compare to an old
> French finish on a walnut dinning set are very different. As much as I
> can I try to avoid using chemical. I do not use heat all the time and
> when I do I wear a proper mask. Most of the jobs are done with hand
> scrapers of various shapes and configurations. I have used chemicals and
> learned that using scrapers takes me about the same time or better.
>
In article <[email protected]>, <[email protected]> wrote:
>I do not like to remove paint. It may contain lead and other stuff.
>
>When it is necessary, I use a hot electric iron or a hot air gun.
If you're concerned about lead, removing it with heat isn't the wisest way to
go about it. Chemical strippers and chem-resistant gloves would be a better
idea.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
For me it's both a smell/taste thing at the same time. I agree it's hard to
explain, you get the same sensation when you melt lead. Hard to explain but
unforgettable.
"noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I cant explain the smell but I do notice it when the paint chips come off.
> I rather not taste it.
>
>
> "Curran Copeland" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Like Lead. It has a sweetesh metal smell/taste, if you can
>> smell/taste it you have a real problem case.
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>> On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:05:54 -0400, "noreaster"
>>> <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:
>>>
>>>>I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead.
>>>>
>>>
>>> What does lead paint smell like?
>>>
>>> Pete
>>
>>
>
>
On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 15:53:11 -0400, "noreaster"
<noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:
>How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the paint
>off 4/4's?
>I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
>Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
>clean side out?
>
What kind of paint? Lead may be present.
Personally, if I was relatively sure no lead paint was present, I
would probably strip the paint with a belt sander, then plane it.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
When I first painted the front doorway with 2 side windows, the paint
remover was jelly like, just made sure I covered all the spots, let it sit
and easily scrap off. That stuff was so nasty, I hope I wont have to do that
again. I did use gloves and had my shirt over my mouth, breathed as little
as possible.I do have a respirator which helps a lot with the pvc cement and
primer, wood dust and spray paint.
"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>I had used chemical before to get the old paint off, man that stuff was
>>>so nasty.
>>
>> So nasty and I have to be careful not to rub my eyes with my fingers.
>>
>
> Yeah but you'd do the same if you had treacle on your hands, or had
> handled chillis. No need to be frightened of this stuff.
> The remover that is a jelly consistency is not so bad. Wear gloves if you
> feel you need it, but usually its enough to just wash your hands in
> running water if you get more than just drops on your hands, mainly to
> avoid touching painted surfaces you want to keep.
>
Thanx, that I can do since the painted side wont be seen at all.
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the
>> paint off 4/4's?
>> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
>> Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
>> clean side out?
>
> A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives of a
> planer... I'd plane the unpainted side and hide the painted side.
>
> John
>
I cant explain the smell but I do notice it when the paint chips come off.
I rather not taste it.
"Curran Copeland" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like Lead. It has a sweetesh metal smell/taste, if you can
> smell/taste it you have a real problem case.
> <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:05:54 -0400, "noreaster"
>> <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:
>>
>>>I believe it may have lead. I took off the moldings and smelled lead.
>>>
>>
>> What does lead paint smell like?
>>
>> Pete
>
>
Good idea with the router, bits are cheaper and end result would be less
damage to tools.
The other side wont be seen at all and would be screwed in.
"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> noreaster wrote:
>> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting the
>> paint off 4/4's?
>> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original wood.
>> Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and install it with the
>> clean side out?
>
> If it's not critical to get the paint off (ie you're not gluing it and the
> back side isn't visible) then leaving the paint on is likely your best
> bet.
>
> Alternately, you could just shave off a sixteenth with a big flat bit in
> your router. The carbide will hold up to the paint better than steel
> planer knives.
>
> I've also done it with scrapers and an angle grinder, although with
> abrasives I'm worried that some of it will get stuck in the wood and nick
> the planer blades.
>
> Chris
John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:%vEEi.2277$He1.727@trnddc03...
>> John Grossbohlin wrote:
>>> "noreaster" <noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> How much damage would it be to the electric planer blades getting
>>>> the paint off 4/4's?
>>>> I would like to shave it down to 3/4's trying to use the original
>>>> wood. Or would it be better to shave off the clean side and
>>>> install it with the clean side out?
>>>
>>> A lot of paint contains solids that will literally eat the knives
>>> of a planer...
>>
>> I'm not doubting you because I don't know but what could be in
>> paint that would damage steel knives? Not the oil...not the
>> resin...titanium dioxide?
>
> Silica (basically sand) calcium carbonate, talc, and kaolin gives
> paint it's body and durability these days. The silica in particular
> acts as an abrasive and wears jointer and planer knives quickly and
> the other fillers aren't much kinder.
>
> The last time I tried to run painted wood through my jointer will
> be the last time. I thought I could get away with jointing the
> edges of a pre-primed board that had been ripped on the table saw.
> Wrong... I ended up with two grooves worn in the knives that left
> humps in the surface of the boards run over it later.
>
> http://www.u-s-silica.com/groundsilica.htm
>
http://www.innovations-report.com/html/reports/materials_science/repor
t-59277.html
Calcium carbonate, talc, and kaolin are all very soft, aren't going to
do anything to steel. Silica is a different story. Thanks for the
answer and links.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico