I'm building a 32x32 ft barn with a Gambrel type roof. I have the design
for a gambrel rafter arrangement which uses plywood gussets on BOTH
sides of the joints between rafter sections. I plan to glue the
gussets, but also nail them on as per the plan (concrete nails used due
to high shear strength).
Can anyone suggest a good way to set up a jig for assembling these, that
has some way to nail BOTH sides of the gussets without turning a large
unfinished rafter unit over the other side up??
I could maybe put the whole thing up on the side of the barn frame...
I plan to lift finished units with my small crane, up to the second
floor, so "right side up" seems like a good thing...
I know the commercial units use those metal gussets that are
hydraulically pressed into place...
Anyone done stuff like this? Suggestions appreciated!
--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
[email protected]
"The one who dies with the most parts LOSES! What do you need??"
"Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> FWIW, I think the concrete nails are probably way overkill, but
> use what makes you happy.
>
> todd
>
>
I agree on the nails. The use of nails is to hold the plywood untill the
glue dries. Once the glue sets up you could pull all the nails without any
problems! Personally I would use sheet rock nails. Thin enough shank so the
boards will not split, plus ring shank for a bit more holding power.
As for nailing both sides, that could be a problem!
If you have a large flat ares to work with, you could build a jig supported
by saw horses, and leave to joints exposed underneath. Then you could nail
or screw from the bottem. Hope you have apropriate air nailer!
Greg
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Cement nails - the square kind - would be less likely to split the wood.
>
> With the inevitable variations in temperature and relative humidity, and
> cross-grain movement of the members, the glue would work loose. Then
> there's wind and snow loading ....
>
> I think there's a good reason commercial trusses are made with fasteners
> that bend.
>
>
My dad would argue with you. 24' truss rafters, plywood gussets, screwed and
glued, then the screws removed. They have been hodling up for 30 years in
his 24' x 32' garage. Pulled many engines with a come along and a 4x4 layed
on the bottem truss run. Not one failure yet, in snow contry.
He built them this way on a bet. His know-it-all neighbor said it would not
work.
Greg
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Neat, but is it code?
>
>
>
No code requirement at the time!
Now many areas require engineered trusses, so DIY is out of the question.
Greg
Wed, Jun 30, 2004, 12:24pm [email protected] (Terry=A0King) says:
I'm building <SNIP>
I got the distinct impression you mean to use a hammer, for
nailing. I wouldn't. I'd use a nail gun. I'd make sure to hook it up
to a compresser too.
JOAT
"That's right," he said. "We're philosophers. We think, therefore we
am."
- From Small Gods
On Wed, 30 Jun 2004 12:24:11 -0400, Terry King <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I know the commercial units use those metal gussets that are
> hydraulically pressed into place...
Those metal gussets are the first thing to fail in a fire, causing
premature roof failure. The steel gets soft _long_ before the wood
burns. I'd avoid them if at all possible, they can change a minor fire
into a "The roof fell in and we had to build over" fire.
> Anyone done stuff like this? Suggestions appreciated!
Can you nail one side now, glue the other until they get up in place,
and then nail the second side once the rafters are in position?
Sounds like a great use for a framing nailer if you have (or want) one.
Dave Hinz
On Thu, 1 Jul 2004 22:25:02 -0500, Greg O <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> No code requirement at the time!
> Now many areas require engineered trusses, so DIY is out of the question.
They _require_ trusses? As in, won't allow stick-built rafters?
I bet the fire departments aren't thrilled with that - truss roofs kill
more firefighters than anything other than terrorist acts.
Greg O wrote:
<big snip>
I made my shop rafters on the concrete floor, with help from SWMBO, now deceased.
Those included the horizontals and all angled parts. I used ply gussets on both sides
of *each* joint and glue in *all* joints and surfaces and nails of some type. I just
flipped them over and did the other side. That was a no-brainer for me. They have
stood the test of time.
Hoyt W.
Cement nails - the square kind - would be less likely to split the wood.
With the inevitable variations in temperature and relative humidity, and
cross-grain movement of the members, the glue would work loose. Then
there's wind and snow loading ....
I think there's a good reason commercial trusses are made with fasteners
that bend.
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > FWIW, I think the concrete nails are probably way overkill, but
> > use what makes you happy.
> >
> > todd
> >
> >
>
> I agree on the nails. The use of nails is to hold the plywood untill the
> glue dries. Once the glue sets up you could pull all the nails without any
> problems! Personally I would use sheet rock nails. Thin enough shank so
the
> boards will not split, plus ring shank for a bit more holding power.
>
> As for nailing both sides, that could be a problem!
> If you have a large flat ares to work with, you could build a jig
supported
> by saw horses, and leave to joints exposed underneath. Then you could nail
> or screw from the bottem. Hope you have apropriate air nailer!
> Greg
>
Neat, but is it code?
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Cement nails - the square kind - would be less likely to split the wood.
> >
> > With the inevitable variations in temperature and relative humidity, and
> > cross-grain movement of the members, the glue would work loose. Then
> > there's wind and snow loading ....
> >
> > I think there's a good reason commercial trusses are made with fasteners
> > that bend.
> >
> >
>
> My dad would argue with you. 24' truss rafters, plywood gussets, screwed
and
> glued, then the screws removed. They have been hodling up for 30 years in
> his 24' x 32' garage. Pulled many engines with a come along and a 4x4
layed
> on the bottem truss run. Not one failure yet, in snow contry.
> He built them this way on a bet. His know-it-all neighbor said it would
not
> work.
> Greg
>
Good, because the flexibility supplied by nail plates is required in quake
and hurricane areas. Could pose insurance problems.
BTW, my shed has plywood gussets. Didn't glue 'em, because with nails, glue
isn't necessary.
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Neat, but is it code?
> >
> >
> >
> No code requirement at the time!
> Now many areas require engineered trusses, so DIY is out of the question.
> Greg
>
Terry King <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm building a 32x32 ft barn with a Gambrel type roof. I have the design
> for a gambrel rafter arrangement which uses plywood gussets on BOTH
> sides of the joints between rafter sections. I plan to glue the
> gussets, but also nail them on as per the plan (concrete nails used due
> to high shear strength).
>
> Can anyone suggest a good way to set up a jig for assembling these, that
> has some way to nail BOTH sides of the gussets without turning a large
> unfinished rafter unit over the other side up??
>
> I could maybe put the whole thing up on the side of the barn frame...
>
> I plan to lift finished units with my small crane, up to the second
> floor, so "right side up" seems like a good thing...
>
> I know the commercial units use those metal gussets that are
> hydraulically pressed into place...
>
> Anyone done stuff like this? Suggestions appreciated!
I built a gambrel trussed roof for my barn in 1976 with my 12 year old
son doing most of the nailing. I set up four sawhorses on fairly level
ground. Screwed first truss to the horses and used this as a jig for
my son to nail and glue the plywood gussets to the framing.I actually
could have used six saw horses as this design used a center (king
post) post to the ceiling joists. I just added a 4x4 under the points
where I needed another horse. I cut all the 3/4" plywood gussets , all
framing lumber and then
left for work . My son nailed one complete truss, then got my wife and
daughter to help take the truss off the jig. Then he would start the
next one. He completed 19 trusses by the time I started to set
them.These trusses had gussets on one side only, subfloor adhesive and
10d nails, hand nailed in those days.I would think that with careful
handling during the lift you will not need gussets on both sides.The
gussets on the other side could be nailed in place if you think they
are neccesary.I am not an engineer but I believe 3/4" plywood gussets
of a decent size are adequate on one side of the truss.
The barn has been up 29 years and has been converted into a house
after I sold the farm.
mike
Why not use bolts? You could fasten both sides at once. The extra
time it takes to drill for a bolt would be offset by not having to
flip the whole thing over. Pile up all of your plates and drill them
all at the same time. A lag bolt and an impact wrench should make
very quick work of it. My guess is 1/4" bolts would be plenty heavy.
Rick Samuel <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> How many nails, on both sides, will go into each
> gusset? APA has a booklet on ridged frame
> construction, in it they caution about splinting
> the members with the nails. As I recall, spacing
> was about 3" oc. They recommended a template, one
> for each side for nail spacing. Drilled holes and
> spray paint.
>
> Terry King wrote:
>
> > I'm building a 32x32 ft barn with a Gambrel type roof. I have the design
> > for a gambrel rafter arrangement which uses plywood gussets on BOTH
> > sides of the joints between rafter sections. I plan to glue the
> > gussets, but also nail them on as per the plan (concrete nails used due
> > to high shear strength).
> >
> > Can anyone suggest a good way to set up a jig for assembling these, that
> > has some way to nail BOTH sides of the gussets without turning a large
> > unfinished rafter unit over the other side up??
> >
> > I could maybe put the whole thing up on the side of the barn frame...
> >
> > I plan to lift finished units with my small crane, up to the second
> > floor, so "right side up" seems like a good thing...
> >
> > I know the commercial units use those metal gussets that are
> > hydraulically pressed into place...
> >
> > Anyone done stuff like this? Suggestions appreciated!
> >
why not use deck screws? I noticed they are using them in the demos at
the BOB(big orange box) place.
What is JOAT
Jack
[email protected] (J T) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Wed, Jun 30, 2004, 12:24pm [email protected] (Terry King) says:
> I'm building <SNIP>
>
> I got the distinct impression you mean to use a hammer, for
> nailing. I wouldn't. I'd use a nail gun. I'd make sure to hook it up
> to a compresser too.
>
> JOAT
> "That's right," he said. "We're philosophers. We think, therefore we
> am."
> - From Small Gods
"Terry King" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a 32x32 ft barn with a Gambrel type roof. I have the design
> for a gambrel rafter arrangement which uses plywood gussets on BOTH
> sides of the joints between rafter sections. I plan to glue the
> gussets, but also nail them on as per the plan (concrete nails used due
> to high shear strength).
>
> Can anyone suggest a good way to set up a jig for assembling these, that
> has some way to nail BOTH sides of the gussets without turning a large
> unfinished rafter unit over the other side up??
>
> I could maybe put the whole thing up on the side of the barn frame...
>
> I plan to lift finished units with my small crane, up to the second
> floor, so "right side up" seems like a good thing...
>
> I know the commercial units use those metal gussets that are
> hydraulically pressed into place...
>
> Anyone done stuff like this? Suggestions appreciated!
Well, I made a much smaller structure with a Gambrel roof and plywood
gussets on both sides and told myself that if I ever built anything a lot
larger that I would give serious thought to ordering them ;-). In my case,
it wasn't a big deal to just flip them over. I know if your case, that's
going to be more difficult, but I think it will be hard to get around having
to do so. FWIW, I think the concrete nails are probably way overkill, but
use what makes you happy.
todd
THANKS! For the many suggestions-- I'm about to start and I'll post the
results. Right now I plan to try both nail-glue-flip-over and Jig-in-
final-position. I have 17 32 foot wide trusses, and I'll know for sure
pretty soon what works...
Right now I plan a few screws for good glue line compresion, and the
high shear strength nails for 'insurance..'
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
[email protected]
"The one who dies with the most parts LOSES! What do you need??"
> Take pictures, please.
> Patriarch
Will do! I have a lot of photos of the barn design and progess so far,
and also quite a bit on the tooling and jigs I have put together. I
also have photos of the crane I made that goes on the front of my truck
and which I used to position the posts and beams single-handedly, up to
the four 8x12 inch 16 foot main beams, which weighed 520 pounds each.
http://terryking.us/public/barn/truckframe.htm
has a couple photos of the crane.
If there's enough interest I will put some web thing together, sort of
like "ShoeString Post and Beam" etc.
Thanks for all the ideas! I got several here that were, um, better than
mine...
--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
[email protected]
"The one who dies with the most parts LOSES! What do you need??"
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> How many nails, on both sides, will go into each
> gusset? APA has a booklet on ridged frame
> construction, in it they caution about splinting
> the members with the nails. As I recall, spacing
> was about 3" oc. They recommended a template, one
> for each side for nail spacing. Drilled holes and
> spray paint.
The plan I have shows 10 nails Each Side for the Hip Gussets (8 by 24
inches. The 3 inch number seems pretty close, then.
I'll use the template idea, for placing consistency. I plan to have the
'other side' pattern intersperse the nails between the 'first side'.
The plan and I are using 2 1/2 inch concrete nails. They're about, um,
(looking for one, trying it in the Drill Index holes...) 3/16 inch
diameter. Boy, they DO look serious, with fluted sides and all. They're
heat treated and I bet have a lot (technically speaking) of sheer
strength.
The plan doesn't require glue, but I like glued joints, and I have 2 new
gallons of a substance I won't bring into discussion on this group this
month...
--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
[email protected]
"The one who dies with the most parts LOSES! What do you need??"
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Why not use bolts? You could fasten both sides at once..
>
> Rick Samuel <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > How many nails, on both sides, will go into each
> > gusset? APA has a booklet on ridged frame
> > construction, in it they caution about splinting
> > the members with the nails. As I recall, spacing
> > was about 3" oc. They recommended a template, one
> > for each side for nail spacing.
** I'm pretty far along with this, now. 7 of 17 trusses are up, most
are prefabbed and ready. I am assembling in place, with 3 support
points. I'll put some photos up in a few days.
Re: Nails/Bolts etc.-- There are 92 * 17 = 1564 nails in this set of
gambrel trusses. Nails are a LOT faster than the other fastener
possibilities.
I did make templates to mark the nail positions in each gusset, and they
are set up so opposing nails are in different locations and well spaced.
No splits seen so far...
--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
[email protected]
"The one who dies with the most parts LOSES! What do you need??"
Somebody wrote:
> why not use deck screws? I noticed they are using them in the demos at
> the BOB(big orange box) place.
Somebody else asks:
> Why use deck screws? As others have said, the fasteners are really only
> there until the adhesive cures. I'd guess that one could shoot all the
> screws for a plywood plate in about the time it took to drive one or two
> screws. For a large barn, the time savings, as well as wear and tear on
> your elbow and shoulder, should pay for at least a rental on a framing
> nailer.
>
> Screws are great in their place. I don't think this is one of them.
I have used plywood gussets, glue and deck screws to build a lot of
temporary structures while building my boat.
It is a very strong joint and is easy to assemble.
The deck screw insures that you will get a thin glue joint.
Translation:
Thin glue joints are stronger than thick glue joints.
If you are doing a job on piece rate, a pneumatic nailer will surely be
faster than deck screws, but will probably not produce an equal joint.
I use a pneumatic nailer strictly for temporary work, but then again, I'm
not in the building construction business.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
[email protected] (jack) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> why not use deck screws? I noticed they are using them in the demos at
> the BOB(big orange box) place.
Why use deck screws? As others have said, the fasteners are really only
there until the adhesive cures. I'd guess that one could shoot all the
screws for a plywood plate in about the time it took to drive one or two
screws. For a large barn, the time savings, as well as wear and tear on
your elbow and shoulder, should pay for at least a rental on a framing
nailer.
Screws are great in their place. I don't think this is one of them.
BTW, JOAT means 'Jack of all Trades.' It also means 'Practical fellow who,
in his life, has seen a few problems, and found many answers.'
Patriarch
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Somebody wrote:
>
> > why not use deck screws? I noticed they are using them in the demos at
>> the BOB(big orange box) place.
>
> Somebody else asks:
>
>> Why use deck screws? As others have said, the fasteners are really only
>> there until the adhesive cures. I'd guess that one could shoot all the
>> screws for a plywood plate in about the time it took to drive one or two
>> screws. For a large barn, the time savings, as well as wear and tear on
>> your elbow and shoulder, should pay for at least a rental on a framing
>> nailer.
>>
>> Screws are great in their place. I don't think this is one of them.
>
> I have used plywood gussets, glue and deck screws to build a lot of
> temporary structures while building my boat.
>
> It is a very strong joint and is easy to assemble.
>
> The deck screw insures that you will get a thin glue joint.
>
> Translation:
>
> Thin glue joints are stronger than thick glue joints.
>
> If you are doing a job on piece rate, a pneumatic nailer will surely be
> faster than deck screws, but will probably not produce an equal joint.
>
> I use a pneumatic nailer strictly for temporary work, but then again, I'm
> not in the building construction business.
>
> HTH
>
>
So every day I learn something. That's one of the things I love about the
Wreck!
Thanks, Lew!
Patriarch
Terry King <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> THANKS! For the many suggestions-- I'm about to start and I'll post the
> results. Right now I plan to try both nail-glue-flip-over and Jig-in-
> final-position. I have 17 32 foot wide trusses, and I'll know for sure
> pretty soon what works...
>
> Right now I plan a few screws for good glue line compresion, and the
> high shear strength nails for 'insurance..'
>
> Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
> [email protected]
> "The one who dies with the most parts LOSES! What do you need??"
>
Take pictures, please.
Patriarch
Paul Hastings wrote:
>
> Greg is correct, this is the way wood aircraft are built as well, nails
> are just there until the glue dries.
And wood aircraft are exposed to a lot more vibration, stress and hostile
environments than a roof truss and built to a lot smaller margin.
> Paul Hastings
> "Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Cement nails - the square kind - would be less likely to split the
>> > wood.
>> >
>> > With the inevitable variations in temperature and relative humidity,
>> > and
>> > cross-grain movement of the members, the glue would work loose. Then
>> > there's wind and snow loading ....
>> >
>> > I think there's a good reason commercial trusses are made with
>> > fasteners that bend.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> My dad would argue with you. 24' truss rafters, plywood gussets, screwed
> and
>> glued, then the screws removed. They have been hodling up for 30 years in
>> his 24' x 32' garage. Pulled many engines with a come along and a 4x4
> layed
>> on the bottem truss run. Not one failure yet, in snow contry.
>> He built them this way on a bet. His know-it-all neighbor said it would
> not
>> work.
>> Greg
>>
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
"Old Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 05:10:05 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
> <[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
> ......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
>
> >I have used plywood gussets, glue and deck screws to build a lot of
> >temporary structures while building my boat.
> >
> >It is a very strong joint and is easy to assemble.
> >
> >The deck screw insures that you will get a thin glue joint.
> >
> >Translation:
> >
> >Thin glue joints are stronger than thick glue joints.
> >
> >If you are doing a job on piece rate, a pneumatic nailer will surely be
> >faster than deck screws, but will probably not produce an equal joint.
> >
> >I use a pneumatic nailer strictly for temporary work, but then again, I'm
> >not in the building construction business.
>
> For the above reasons, if I was building a glued joint I wanted to
> rely on, and using nails, hammered or phutt-haaed, I would clamp the
> joint first.
>
> I also reckon that screws _would_ add significant strength and
> felxibility to a joint.
Check the shear values for the screws before you decide they are better than
nails.
For a true truss, all joints are either in compression or tension so the
only real use for the gusset is to hold the pieces together. A pin
connection is all that is required there and nails should be sufficient.
-Jack
How many nails, on both sides, will go into each
gusset? APA has a booklet on ridged frame
construction, in it they caution about splinting
the members with the nails. As I recall, spacing
was about 3" oc. They recommended a template, one
for each side for nail spacing. Drilled holes and
spray paint.
Terry King wrote:
> I'm building a 32x32 ft barn with a Gambrel type roof. I have the design
> for a gambrel rafter arrangement which uses plywood gussets on BOTH
> sides of the joints between rafter sections. I plan to glue the
> gussets, but also nail them on as per the plan (concrete nails used due
> to high shear strength).
>
> Can anyone suggest a good way to set up a jig for assembling these, that
> has some way to nail BOTH sides of the gussets without turning a large
> unfinished rafter unit over the other side up??
>
> I could maybe put the whole thing up on the side of the barn frame...
>
> I plan to lift finished units with my small crane, up to the second
> floor, so "right side up" seems like a good thing...
>
> I know the commercial units use those metal gussets that are
> hydraulically pressed into place...
>
> Anyone done stuff like this? Suggestions appreciated!
>
I have only done this once. Thereafter I used purchased trusses.
My approach only allowed nailing gussets one side at a time. I built my
prototype on the garage floor. Once completed I wrote down appropriate saw
angle settings and traced everything on the floor with caulk. Once I did
this, everything else was saw cuts and tinkertoys. When I got one side
nailed the truss was plenty rigid for the flip over and finish. I too used
roofing nails.
I don't know how many you have to build but if your jig up is too
complicated, it could take more time than the trusses.
"Terry King" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a 32x32 ft barn with a Gambrel type roof. I have the design
> for a gambrel rafter arrangement which uses plywood gussets on BOTH
> sides of the joints between rafter sections. I plan to glue the
> gussets, but also nail them on as per the plan (concrete nails used due
> to high shear strength).
>
> Can anyone suggest a good way to set up a jig for assembling these, that
> has some way to nail BOTH sides of the gussets without turning a large
> unfinished rafter unit over the other side up??
>
> I could maybe put the whole thing up on the side of the barn frame...
>
> I plan to lift finished units with my small crane, up to the second
> floor, so "right side up" seems like a good thing...
>
> I know the commercial units use those metal gussets that are
> hydraulically pressed into place...
>
> Anyone done stuff like this? Suggestions appreciated!
>
> --
> Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
> [email protected]
> "The one who dies with the most parts LOSES! What do you need??"
On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 05:10:05 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>I have used plywood gussets, glue and deck screws to build a lot of
>temporary structures while building my boat.
>
>It is a very strong joint and is easy to assemble.
>
>The deck screw insures that you will get a thin glue joint.
>
>Translation:
>
>Thin glue joints are stronger than thick glue joints.
>
>If you are doing a job on piece rate, a pneumatic nailer will surely be
>faster than deck screws, but will probably not produce an equal joint.
>
>I use a pneumatic nailer strictly for temporary work, but then again, I'm
>not in the building construction business.
For the above reasons, if I was building a glued joint I wanted to
rely on, and using nails, hammered or phutt-haaed, I would clamp the
joint first.
I also reckon that screws _would_ add significant strength and
felxibility to a joint.
Greg is correct, this is the way wood aircraft are built as well, nails are
just there until the glue dries.
Paul Hastings
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Cement nails - the square kind - would be less likely to split the wood.
> >
> > With the inevitable variations in temperature and relative humidity, and
> > cross-grain movement of the members, the glue would work loose. Then
> > there's wind and snow loading ....
> >
> > I think there's a good reason commercial trusses are made with fasteners
> > that bend.
> >
> >
>
> My dad would argue with you. 24' truss rafters, plywood gussets, screwed
and
> glued, then the screws removed. They have been hodling up for 30 years in
> his 24' x 32' garage. Pulled many engines with a come along and a 4x4
layed
> on the bottem truss run. Not one failure yet, in snow contry.
> He built them this way on a bet. His know-it-all neighbor said it would
not
> work.
> Greg
>
On 25 Jul 2004 22:25:53 -0700, [email protected] (mike) wrote:
>Terry King <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> I'm building a 32x32 ft barn with a Gambrel type roof. I have the design
>> for a gambrel rafter arrangement which uses plywood gussets on BOTH
>> sides of the joints between rafter sections. I plan to glue the
>> gussets, but also nail them on as per the plan (concrete nails used due
>> to high shear strength).
>>
>> Can anyone suggest a good way to set up a jig for assembling these, that
>> has some way to nail BOTH sides of the gussets without turning a large
>> unfinished rafter unit over the other side up??
>>
>> I could maybe put the whole thing up on the side of the barn frame...
>>
>> I plan to lift finished units with my small crane, up to the second
>> floor, so "right side up" seems like a good thing...
>>
>> I know the commercial units use those metal gussets that are
>> hydraulically pressed into place...
>>
>> Anyone done stuff like this? Suggestions appreciated!
set up your truss jig at the end of the building with the top of the
truss pointing away from the building. nail off the gussets on one
side, then stand the truss up against the building and nail off the
other side. then lift the truss to the top plate and stage it for the
stack starting from the far end, so you don't have to carry over the
trusses that are already up there.
"Terry King" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a 32x32 ft barn with a Gambrel type roof. I have the design
> for a gambrel rafter arrangement which uses plywood gussets on BOTH
> sides of the joints between rafter sections. I plan to glue the
> gussets, but also nail them on as per the plan (concrete nails used due
> to high shear strength).
>
> Can anyone suggest a good way to set up a jig for assembling these, that
> has some way to nail BOTH sides of the gussets without turning a large
> unfinished rafter unit over the other side up??
I've built gambrel roof trusses and nailed the plywood gussets on by hand
with a lot of 4D common nails. I had built a large work table on heavy duty
saw horses with 3/4" plywood for a top. To this work table I nailed
positioning blocks so that each precut board was held in position, i.e., the
table served as a huge jig. There were 30 trusses, as I recall, and having
this workbench height work table saved a lot of backpain and time. Each had
to be flipped over so the other side could be nailed. The truss was strong
enough to be flipped with no problem. Note that it was a lot faster when
another guy helped with the job.
John