I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides.
I currently have about 20 Dockyard micro carving tools ranging from 1.5mm to
3mm in many different shapes.
The manufacturer recommends a 20° angle.
These tools are SOOOOOOOOO tiny that I cannot afford to muck them up by
being inaccurate. Just a few wrong swipes will completely wipe a blade out.
I love them, they hold an edge nicely and though I have run them on my
leather strop a little I would like to be able to keep them as nice as when
they arrived.
Dockyard recommended their own sharpening jig BUT I am unable to locate it
online, even at Woodcraft... which is where the tools came from. Short of
finding a phone number I don't know what else to do.
Eventually (hopefully sooner than later) I plan on getting more carving
tools in larger sizes. Some good quality tools. I've been using some Chinky
China stuff and they were great for getting my feet wet but now I'm ready to
make an investment.
Will you guys and gals give me the benefit of your experience, please?
Here are a couple of things I am considering.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5366
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=224&productid=03B30
However, the shafts on the micro tools are round. Alignment may be an issue.
and this is the only thing I can come up with for my tools that are not flat
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4364
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance :)
--
Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)
The shortest distance between two points,
is a lot more fun in a Jeep!
Wash behind your ears before you reply :¬)
On Jan 9, 10:15 pm, "Kate" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides.
> I currently have about 20 Dockyard micro carving tools ranging from 1.5mm =
to
> 3mm in many different shapes.
> The manufacturer recommends a 20=B0 angle.
> These tools are SOOOOOOOOO tiny that I cannot afford to muck them up by
> being inaccurate. Just a few wrong swipes will completely wipe a blade out=
.
> I love them, they hold an edge nicely and though I have run them on my
> leather strop a little I would like to be able to keep them as nice as whe=
n
> they arrived.
It's hard to estimate 20 degrees, but easy to estimate level.
Clamp the chisel in a padded vise at 20 degrees and hone
with a stone or slip held flat.
Kate wrote:
> I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides.
> I currently have about 20 Dockyard micro carving tools ranging from 1.5mm to
> 3mm in many different shapes.
> The manufacturer recommends a 20° angle.
> These tools are SOOOOOOOOO tiny that I cannot afford to muck them up by
> being inaccurate. Just a few wrong swipes will completely wipe a blade out.
> I love them, they hold an edge nicely and though I have run them on my
> leather strop a little I would like to be able to keep them as nice as when
> they arrived.
>
> Dockyard recommended their own sharpening jig BUT I am unable to locate it
> online, even at Woodcraft... which is where the tools came from. Short of
> finding a phone number I don't know what else to do.
>
> Eventually (hopefully sooner than later) I plan on getting more carving
> tools in larger sizes. Some good quality tools. I've been using some Chinky
> China stuff and they were great for getting my feet wet but now I'm ready to
> make an investment.
>
> Will you guys and gals give me the benefit of your experience, please?
>
> Here are a couple of things I am considering.
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5366
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=224&productid=03B30
> However, the shafts on the micro tools are round. Alignment may be an issue.
>
> and this is the only thing I can come up with for my tools that are not flat
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4364
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks in advance :)
Kate,
There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are
woodcarvers: each has there on method.
To sharpen my small carving tools I use a sharpening stone when the
cutting edge becomes rounded from stropping, damaged, or needs to be
reshaped, followed by honing. I use the Flexcut Slipstrop with Tormek
honing compound.
The following web sites will provide more info on sharpening
Mac Proffits method:
<http://www.woodcarvers.com/sharpening.htm>
Lora Irish's web site:
<http://www.carvingpatterns.com/sharpening-2.htm>
The Carvers Companion web site:
<http://carverscompanion.com/NewCarverFiles.html>
Neil
Kate,
There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are
woodcarvers: each has there on method.
To sharpen my small carving tools I use a sharpening stone when the
cutting edge becomes rounded from stropping, damaged, or needs to be
reshaped, followed by honing. I use the Flexcut Slipstrop with Tormek
honing compound.
The following web sites will provide more info on sharpening
Mac Proffits method:
<http://www.woodcarvers.com/sharpening.htm>
Lora Irish's web site:
<http://www.carvingpatterns.com/sharpening-2.htm>
The Carvers Companion web site:
<http://carverscompanion.com/NewCarverFiles.html>
Neil
http://www.tristatecarvers.com/
Wed, Jan 9, 2008, 9:15pm (EST-1) [email protected] (Kate)
doth wonder:
I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides. <snip>
My theory on sharpening guides is, just use them on things like
plane irons, that will be staying at the same angle.
Things like turning tools, carving tools, only need to be close as
reasonable, because every time you make a cut the angle of the tool to
wood is not going to be exactly the same. For my lathe tools I prefer
my small benchtop belt sander. I got el cheapo HF tools, because I
figured I'd practice with those, and if I screwed them up, no prob, and
I'd get quality tools later. Well, still haven't worn the HF tools out
yet, so still using them, with no prob. One of these tays tho I'll get
around to putting longer handles on them. Haven't sharpened my carbing
chisels yet, but probably will be doing them with Scarey Sharp, no
guide, rather than the belt sander. Or, maybe the belt sander, depends
on how the wind is blowing that day, what the humidity is, temperature,
sunny or cloudy, or just whether I feel like it or not. So far, my
theory is working out quite well for me. Oh yeah, if I ever replace my
lathe tools, it'll be with homemade versions. Now, if I can just get a
place to set up a forge.
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.
"Kate" wrote
>
> *** Scarey Sharp?
>
That should be scary sharp.
It is a method of sharpening that uses a progessive series of different
grits of sandpaper on a very flat surface, usually glass.
It is a common enough, I am sure therre is lots of info around on it, either
on the web or in the wreck archives.
Thu, Jan 10, 2008, 10:56am leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net
(Lee=A0Michaels) doth sayeth:
That should be scary sharp.
It is a method of sharpening that uses a progessive series of different
grits of sandpaper on a very flat surface, usually glass.
It is a common enough, I am sure therre is lots of info around on it,
either on the web or in the wreck archives.
If you're gonna get picky about the spelling, I'm gonna get picky
about the capitalization - it is Scary Sharp. Actually Scary Sharp
(TM). While you were at it you should have given the URL too, so she
could have accurate info. http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.
Notoce that the SlipStrop POLISHES. I bought one
thinking it was a molded synthetic fine stone. It ain't.
It's wood - and a soft wood at that.
The Precision Sharpening System does flat bevels, which
is half of what's needed for flat, single bevel, chisels
and carving tools - you still need a flat and polished back.
This one won't do curved bevels and can't get into the
inside.
The Veritas sharpening guide is the older of the two
Veritas sharpening guides - and the more difficult
to set up. Made for flat tools though you could probably
use a triangular file to make a groove in it to hold
round things. The groove would have to be sqaure to
the ends or you'll get a skewed bevel. Doesn't do the
inside of curved or V carving tools though.
I suspect that what you'll end up with is some japanese
water stone "slips? - or synthetic stone versions.
charlieb
Kate wrote:
> <|>I have a little bitty white Arkansas stone that I have been using.
> Trouble is the angled and rounded edges. I'm doing ok with the straight
> edges I just hate the thought of messing the different shaped ones up.
>
> Thanks for the links, I'll go do some more homework.
> I'm planning on getting a couple of the Chris Pye books, the tools and
> sharpening book is on my list
>
> Kate
The Slipstrop and the gold honing compound should keep your angled and
rounded edges sharp. Just as effective is to use your v and gouge tools
to cut grooves in softwood creating a strop to hone the bevel of the
matching v tool or gouge. Use a leather shoestring with honing compound
to hone the inside bevel of your micro tools.
Another book to consider on sharpening is The Complete Guide to
Sharpening by Leonard Lee.
Neil
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Wed, Jan 9, 2008, 9:15pm (EST-1) [email protected] (Kate)
doth wonder:
I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides. <snip>
My theory on sharpening guides is, just use them on things like
plane irons, that will be staying at the same angle.
Things like turning tools, carving tools, only need to be close as
reasonable, because every time you make a cut the angle of the tool to
wood is not going to be exactly the same. For my lathe tools I prefer
my small benchtop belt sander. I got el cheapo HF tools, because I
figured I'd practice with those, and if I screwed them up, no prob, and
I'd get quality tools later.
*** That's where I am now. I have learned a LOT by using the HF tools.
Most - no - ALL of them had to have a lot of reshaping to even be useful.
Even still they never were satisfactory. Now that I'm ready to invest in
some better tools I want to do the best that I can by the edges so I don't
bugger them up.
Well, still haven't worn the HF tools out
yet, so still using them, with no prob. One of these days tho I'll get
around to putting longer handles on them. Haven't sharpened my carving
chisels yet, but probably will be doing them with Scarey Sharp, no
guide, rather than the belt sander.
*** Scarey Sharp?
Or, maybe the belt sander, depends
on how the wind is blowing that day, what the humidity is, temperature,
sunny or cloudy, or just whether I feel like it or not. So far, my
theory is working out quite well for me. Oh yeah, if I ever replace my
lathe tools, it'll be with homemade versions. Now, if I can just get a
place to set up a forge.
*** JT - you crack me up. ;¬Þ
Thanks for the advice and the giggle.
Oh, put the forge up behind the shop. What the heck, you can shoe horses on
the side.
Kate
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.
<snip> Thanks for the advice and the giggle.
Oh, put the forge up behind the shop. What the heck, you can shoe horses
on the side.
Some of the pros sharpen with belt sanders.
Forge behind the shop? Not lately. And I take it you have never
shoed a horse. I have helped, and it is NOT something I care repeat.
So yuo don't know what Scarey Sharp is? Well for the above, I'm not
gonna tell you. Hehehehe But I'm sure someone else will. If you'd
made a proper sacrifice or two for the Woodworking Gods I woulda told
you. Heathen.
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.
"Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote
> And, the appropriate sacrifice would be_______ ?
**snip!**
> Kate
>
Oh geez, Kate. NEVER ask. It's either
your first born or a case of yellow
paint in aerosol cans. Sometimes both.
--
Tanus
HEH... If I sent my first born, I could collect a good $um to take her back
*WEG*
Kate
Kate wrote:
> "J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> <snip> Thanks for the advice and the giggle.
> Oh, put the forge up behind the shop. What the heck, you can shoe horses
> on the side.
>
> Some of the pros sharpen with belt sanders.
>
> ** if I used a belt sander on these little guys, they would be gone in the
> blink of an eye.
> and you KNOW I'm about as far from being a pro as the get ;¬)
>
> Forge behind the shop? Not lately. And I take it you have never
> shoed a horse.
> **shod... nop, have never shod a horse. Grew up withhorses under my arse,
> held the twitch while my mom put shoes on them but never did it mysel. Never
> wanted to either.
>
> I have helped, and it is NOT something I care repeat.
> So yuo don't know what Scarey Sharp is? Well for the above, I'm not
> gonna tell you. Hehehehe But I'm sure someone else will. If you'd
> made a proper sacrifice or two for the Woodworking Gods I woulda told
> you. Heathen.
>
> **But you DID you DID, in the other post.
> Funny as hell too. I read a little of it. Will sit and read it all when I
> get some time this evening.
> Thanks JT
>
> And, the appropriate sacrifice would be_______ ?
>
> Kate
>
Oh geez, Kate. NEVER ask. It's either
your first born or a case of yellow
paint in aerosol cans. Sometimes both.
--
Tanus
This is not really a sig.
http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/
Sat, Jan 12, 2008, 12:11pm [email protected] (Tanus) doth mistakenly
state:
Oh geez, Kate. NEVER ask. It's either
your first born or a case of yellow
paint in aerosol cans. Sometimes both.
Not only a bloody damn heathen, but a bloody damn barbarian also.
Among other things, I've got my own first born, and he's enough of a
PITA I don't want to take on someone else's PITA. And I buy my own
paint. No wonder the Woodworking Gods don't bless you.
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
<snip> Thanks for the advice and the giggle.
Oh, put the forge up behind the shop. What the heck, you can shoe horses
on the side.
Some of the pros sharpen with belt sanders.
** if I used a belt sander on these little guys, they would be gone in the
blink of an eye.
and you KNOW I'm about as far from being a pro as the get ;¬)
Forge behind the shop? Not lately. And I take it you have never
shoed a horse.
**shod... nop, have never shod a horse. Grew up withhorses under my arse,
held the twitch while my mom put shoes on them but never did it mysel. Never
wanted to either.
I have helped, and it is NOT something I care repeat.
So yuo don't know what Scarey Sharp is? Well for the above, I'm not
gonna tell you. Hehehehe But I'm sure someone else will. If you'd
made a proper sacrifice or two for the Woodworking Gods I woulda told
you. Heathen.
**But you DID you DID, in the other post.
Funny as hell too. I read a little of it. Will sit and read it all when I
get some time this evening.
Thanks JT
And, the appropriate sacrifice would be_______ ?
Kate
Sat, Jan 12, 2008, 10:45am (EST-1) [email protected]
(Kate) doth posteth thusly:
** if I used a belt sander on these little guys, they would be gone in
the blink of an eye. <snip>
**shod... nop, have never shod a horse. Grew up withhorses under my
arse, <snip>
**But you DID you DID, in the other post. Funny as hell too. I read a
little of it. Will sit and read it all when I get some time this
evening.
Thanks JT
And, the appropriate sacrifice would be_______ ?
Ah, if they won't hold up to a belt sander, probably not worth
keeping. My little carving knives, made from old bandsaw blades, hold
up well enough. Now that I recall, now I do all my carving with my
pocket knife - easier to find.
No, it's shoed. Lots of people make that mistake. It's technical
past tense stuff, advanced English. Like rotten, its past tense, but
most people don't have the education to know abou it. You've heard of
words that sound the same, not spelled the same, with different
meanings, so-sew-sow, and so on. Then there's words that are spelled
the same, but different meanings. Lead-lead, and so on. Well rotten
falls in this last catetory. Write, wrote, written, rotten. Rotten is
the past tense of written. It's easy to get confused. And, yes, it's
much preferable to have a hors under your arse, than vice versa.
Personally my feelsings on horses are similar to those of the
Apache Indians. Rade it until it drops, eat some, cut off some to take
along, and proceed on foot.
Horse \Horse\ (h[^o]rs), n. [AS. hors; akin to OS. hros, D. & OHG. ros,
G. ross, Icel. hross; and perh. to L. currere to run, E. course, current
Cf. {Walrus}.] 1. (Zool.) A hoofed quadruped of the genus {Equus};
especially, the domestic horse ({Equus caballus}), an unreliable means
of transporation; best though of as a self-propelled food source.
Well, Hell, sounded like the guy didn't know what it it..
Ah, converting the heathen? The Woodworking Gods are not greedy.
A small sacrifice of wood will do them nicely. Remember, don't try this
at home, as High Priest of the Woodworking Gods, I handle all their
adinistrative work. So, either a small amount of decent wood, which is
definitely larger than a token of wood, will suffice. Or, a short
sligltly used female virgin, especially one that likes to do house work
will do. A couple of the guys tried to send along female goats, I did
NOT ask any questions about their virginity. But blood sacrifices are
NOT acceptable by the Woodworking Gods, it does have to be a human
female. And no kids included. Wouldn't hurt if she likes to fish too.
No smokers.
Well, I'm still on my first cuppa. Now need to contemplate whether
to just finish it, then go to town, then a bit of shop time, or just
have a second cuppa first. Decisions, decisions, decisions. Hell with
it, I'm gonna have a second cuppa.
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.
JT,
It might be a geographic thing.
Here's from Webster's own:
Main Entry: shod
Pronunciation: \'shäd\
Function: adjective
Etymology: Middle English, from past participle of shoen to shoe, from Old
English scogan, from scoh shoe - more at shoe
Date: 13th century
1: wearing footgear (as shoes) 2: furnished or equipped with a shoe
Hmm.... I'll have to have a look on that sacrifice. The biggest piece of
wood I have around is 3" x 32" maple flooring....
Now, the slightly used virgins, both are smokers, neither of them fish and
one is a terrible housekeeper but MAN OH MAN is she a good looker!
http://stonefoxmodeling.com/Stone%20Fox%20Modeling%201.htm
Kate
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Sat, Jan 12, 2008, 10:45am (EST-1) [email protected]
(Kate) doth posteth thusly:
** if I used a belt sander on these little guys, they would be gone in
the blink of an eye. <snip>
**shod... nop, have never shod a horse. Grew up withhorses under my
arse, <snip>
**But you DID you DID, in the other post. Funny as hell too. I read a
little of it. Will sit and read it all when I get some time this
evening.
Thanks JT
And, the appropriate sacrifice would be_______ ?
Ah, if they won't hold up to a belt sander, probably not worth
keeping. My little carving knives, made from old bandsaw blades, hold
up well enough. Now that I recall, now I do all my carving with my
pocket knife - easier to find.
No, it's shoed. Lots of people make that mistake. It's technical
past tense stuff, advanced English. Like rotten, its past tense, but
most people don't have the education to know abou it. You've heard of
words that sound the same, not spelled the same, with different
meanings, so-sew-sow, and so on. Then there's words that are spelled
the same, but different meanings. Lead-lead, and so on. Well rotten
falls in this last catetory. Write, wrote, written, rotten. Rotten is
the past tense of written. It's easy to get confused. And, yes, it's
much preferable to have a hors under your arse, than vice versa.
Personally my feelsings on horses are similar to those of the
Apache Indians. Rade it until it drops, eat some, cut off some to take
along, and proceed on foot.
Horse \Horse\ (h[^o]rs), n. [AS. hors; akin to OS. hros, D. & OHG. ros,
G. ross, Icel. hross; and perh. to L. currere to run, E. course, current
Cf. {Walrus}.] 1. (Zool.) A hoofed quadruped of the genus {Equus};
especially, the domestic horse ({Equus caballus}), an unreliable means
of transporation; best though of as a self-propelled food source.
Well, Hell, sounded like the guy didn't know what it it..
Ah, converting the heathen? The Woodworking Gods are not greedy.
A small sacrifice of wood will do them nicely. Remember, don't try this
at home, as High Priest of the Woodworking Gods, I handle all their
adinistrative work. So, either a small amount of decent wood, which is
definitely larger than a token of wood, will suffice. Or, a short
sligltly used female virgin, especially one that likes to do house work
will do. A couple of the guys tried to send along female goats, I did
NOT ask any questions about their virginity. But blood sacrifices are
NOT acceptable by the Woodworking Gods, it does have to be a human
female. And no kids included. Wouldn't hurt if she likes to fish too.
No smokers.
Well, I'm still on my first cuppa. Now need to contemplate whether
to just finish it, then go to town, then a bit of shop time, or just
have a second cuppa first. Decisions, decisions, decisions. Hell with
it, I'm gonna have a second cuppa.
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.
Mon, Jan 14, 2008, 7:41pm (EST-1) [email protected]
(Kate) doth sayeth:
It might be a geographic thing.<snip>
Hmm.... I'll have to have a look on that sacrifice. The biggest piece of
wood I have around is 3" x 32" maple flooring....
Now, the slightly used virgins, both are smokers, neither of them fish
and one is a terrible housekeeper but MAN OH MAN is she a good looker!
http://stonefoxmodeling.com/Stone%20Fox%20Modeling%201.htm
Nah, you must have gotten one of those new dictionaries, you know,
like new math where 1+1= about 2.
Hey, the maple would work, the Woodworking Gods aren't greedy.
Neither of the slightly used virgins would be acceptable by any
means, they smoke. Nasty, nasty, nasty.
Hey, had to go to Raleigh today, to see the doctor that diagnosed
me as having sleep apnia. Got the results of my last sleep study, turns
out I do not have sleep apnia. LMAO That's what I've been saying all
along. Anyway, stopped at my favorite used bookstore on the way back,
and they had a number of books on carving instructions, and some on hand
sharpening tools. You might not want to stop by there, but you could
check some used bookstores in your area. Me, I'm gonna try to remember
to stop by the glass place tomorrow and see if they've got one or two
pieces of plate glass about 12"X12" or so, one for Scary Sharp (TM) and
one for a light box. Or, I'll just use my belt sander. LOL
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I don't have a problem with a woman president - just not Hillary.
Hey!
I have some pieces of tempered glass about that size!
Want me to send you one?
Seriously!
Kate
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Mon, Jan 14, 2008, 7:41pm (EST-1) [email protected]
(Kate) doth sayeth:
It might be a geographic thing.<snip>
Hmm.... I'll have to have a look on that sacrifice. The biggest piece of
wood I have around is 3" x 32" maple flooring....
Now, the slightly used virgins, both are smokers, neither of them fish
and one is a terrible housekeeper but MAN OH MAN is she a good looker!
http://stonefoxmodeling.com/Stone%20Fox%20Modeling%201.htm
Nah, you must have gotten one of those new dictionaries, you know,
like new math where 1+1= about 2.
Hey, the maple would work, the Woodworking Gods aren't greedy.
Neither of the slightly used virgins would be acceptable by any
means, they smoke. Nasty, nasty, nasty.
Hey, had to go to Raleigh today, to see the doctor that diagnosed
me as having sleep apnia. Got the results of my last sleep study, turns
out I do not have sleep apnia. LMAO That's what I've been saying all
along. Anyway, stopped at my favorite used bookstore on the way back,
and they had a number of books on carving instructions, and some on hand
sharpening tools. You might not want to stop by there, but you could
check some used bookstores in your area. Me, I'm gonna try to remember
to stop by the glass place tomorrow and see if they've got one or two
pieces of plate glass about 12"X12" or so, one for Scary Sharp (TM) and
one for a light box. Or, I'll just use my belt sander. LOL
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I don't have a problem with a woman president - just not Hillary.
Mon, Jan 14, 2008, 10:13pm (EST-1) [email protected]
(Kate) doth sayeth:
Hey!
I have some pieces of tempered glass about that size! Want me to send
you one?
Seriously!
Hmm, I'll definitely consider t he offer. As long as you know the
Woodworking Gods probably won't certifiy it as a sacrifice, not wood you
know. I want to try the local glass place. I'll get back to you. We
really could use a fishing buddy tho. Now, if you were parinoid about
using a sharpening, and we all know you're not paranoid. Uh, you did
take your pill today, right? LOL You might well have run across this
already. But on the off chance you either didn't, or already forgot,
this would probably work pretty well. Of course, you' might well wind
up with a separate one, with varying angles, for each chisel..
http://www.seadercraft.com/model_woodwork.html Me, I don't think I'd
ever bother with a guide - like I said, each cut would be at a slightly
different angle, so beeing off by just a shade wouldn't man a thing, and
being dead on with the chisel angle would just be un-needed. That's my
theory anyway. If you don't like the belt sander idea for some strange
reason, I'd probably opt for a very hard wheel on a grinder, possibly
slow, probably not. Delicate touches would probably do. I think for
class tho, Scary Sharp (TM) is the way to go. Astound and astonish
friends and neighbors with your hand sharpening skills. People will
probably come from yards away to view your skills. They don't come to
watch me and my belt sander, but on the other hand, that's the way I
prefer it. Remind me sometime to tell you about the day the Jehovah's
Wtnesses came when I was sawing in my shop. LMAO
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I don't have a problem with a woman president - just not Hillary.
"Rita and Neil Ward" <[email protected]> wrote
There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are
woodcarvers: each has there own method.
To sharpen my small carving tools I use a sharpening stone when the
cutting edge becomes rounded from stropping, damaged, or needs to be
reshaped, followed by honing. I use the Flexcut Slipstrop with Tormek
honing compound.
<|>I have a little bitty white Arkansas stone that I have been using.
Trouble is the angled and rounded edges. I'm doing ok with the straight
edges I just hate the thought of messing the different shaped ones up.
Thanks for the links, I'll go do some more homework.
I'm planning on getting a couple of the Chris Pye books, the tools and
sharpening book is on my list
Kate
The following web sites will provide more info on sharpening
Mac Proffits method:
<http://www.woodcarvers.com/sharpening.htm>
Lora Irish's web site:
<http://www.carvingpatterns.com/sharpening-2.htm>
The Carvers Companion web site:
<http://carverscompanion.com/NewCarverFiles.html>
Neil
Kate,
There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are
woodcarvers: each has there on method.
To sharpen my small carving tools I use a sharpening stone when the
cutting edge becomes rounded from stropping, damaged, or needs to be
reshaped, followed by honing. I use the Flexcut Slipstrop with Tormek
honing compound.
The following web sites will provide more info on sharpening
Mac Proffits method:
<http://www.woodcarvers.com/sharpening.htm>
Lora Irish's web site:
<http://www.carvingpatterns.com/sharpening-2.htm>
The Carvers Companion web site:
<http://carverscompanion.com/NewCarverFiles.html>
Neil
http://www.tristatecarvers.com/
"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote
It's hard to estimate 20 degrees, but easy to estimate level.
Clamp the chisel in a padded vise at 20 degrees and hone
with a stone or slip held flat.
--
That's a good idea!
Thanks!
K.
Believe it or not...
that's one of the books in my cart on Amazon :)
Thanks!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f4277ef7-86f3-4759-81e3-d6bc394be695@d21g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Kate,
While not a system, this book might help?
Butz "Sharpening carving tools"
Here's the URL to Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/How-Sharpen-Carving-Tools-Woodcarving/dp/0811729966/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1199982034&sr=8-2
MJ Wallace
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f5715153-81ac-4ae2-ad6e-215973072137@k39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
Kate,
I also recently started using the dockyard micro tools and did a
similar search to buy or at least get some info on the dockyard
sharpening jig. No luck, no email address, no phone number. I do have
their street address (printed on their product labels) and I typed up
a short letter to them requesting info. The letter is still in my
computer. If I eventually mail it and get info I will let you know
here. If you get any where, please do the same.
Larry
Thanks Larry...
I sure will!
How do you like them? I just love mine, they are SO little and precise.
What are you carving?
Kate
"Rita and Neil Ward" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Kate wrote:
>
>> I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides.
>> I currently have about 20 Dockyard micro carving tools ranging from 1.5mm
>> to 3mm in many different shapes.
>> The manufacturer recommends a 20° angle.
SNIP
>
> There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are woodcarvers:
> each has there on method.
>
Their own method indeed. With the use of the tool as its own jig is the one
most employ. Means nothing coarser than a Washita or fine India is ever
used, because coarser takes longer to get the gross marks out by hand than
just honing fine to begin with.
Fortunately carving is not done by placing the tool in a jig at a fixed
position like a plane or shave. Means there's a _LOT_ of leeway in angles
and bevels. Isn't the numbers that make an edge sharp or a carver
competent, either. Makes the pursuit of the right number a waste of time
and money in my opinion.
But if you must have it, make your basswood ramps at the proper angles and
slide them and the tool on your oiled stone. Or straddle the stone with the
ramp if you're using water.
"Rita and Neil Ward" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Kate wrote:
> <|>I have a little bitty white Arkansas stone that I have been using.
> Trouble is the angled and rounded edges. I'm doing ok with the straight
> edges I just hate the thought of messing the different shaped ones up.
>
> Thanks for the links, I'll go do some more homework.
> I'm planning on getting a couple of the Chris Pye books, the tools and
> sharpening book is on my list
>
> Kate
The Slipstrop and the gold honing compound should keep your angled and
rounded edges sharp. Just as effective is to use your v and gouge tools
to cut grooves in softwood creating a strop to hone the bevel of the
matching v tool or gouge. Use a leather shoestring with honing compound
to hone the inside bevel of your micro tools.
** Oh HEY! That's a good idea! Thanks :)
Another book to consider on sharpening is The Complete Guide to
Sharpening by Leonard Lee.
Neil
Hi Bill,
Thank you for reposting.
I have been having problems with my newsgroups lately and though I tried to
reply to the first post you left with the photos I don't think it made it.
I posted a photo of the strop I made a couple of months ago. I sharpen on
one side and then run the blade over the side with no medium on the other
side for a few swipes. Seemed like the thing to do.
For a polishing medium I am using a white buffing compound. I'm thinking I
might need to make another strop for rouge... what jewelers call white
diamond. It's a coarser polish than rouge...whatta ya think?
I'm not near sighted but I DO have a magnifying light on my bench. I'm
thinking of trying to make a wooded guide (as suggested above) just to keep
myself from rounding the edges.
Kate
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 21:15:31 -0600, "Kate"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides.
>I currently have about 20 Dockyard micro carving tools ranging from 1.5mm
>to
>3mm in many different shapes.
<snip>
>Thanks in advance :)
At the risk of being repetative, I've re-posted a response to a query
in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking below:
I have a set of six of the Dockyard micro tools and use some of them
quite often.
I initially sharpened them on a fine oil stone. It's just a matter of
being careful to maintain the proper angle (15-20 degrees). I have an
advantage of being near-sighted, so I can look very closely at the
edge while I'm sharpening : ). Then stropping on a leather strop
occasionally.
Over the years, I have managed to drop and break most of my stones, so
I've replaced them with a diamond hone, and I love it for setting the
initial edge.
Now I have a home made rig for maintaining the edge of my tools. It
consists of a piece of oak about 14 inches long and 2 inches wide,
with a handle carved on one end. I rounded one end for stropping the
inside of larger gouges and stretched an old leather belt around it
while wet (inside of small goughes anf v tools can be run alonf the
edge of the belt). When the leather dried, it shrank and tightened
up. On the other side, I glued a piece of plexiglass on the stick to
which is spray glued a piece of 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. This
works very well for touching up the edges of small tools. The best
stropping compound that I have found is the Flexcut Gold compound.
It's not necessary to maintain an exact 20 degree edge, just a flat
one. The Dockyard tools hold a pretty good edge and I prefer an angle
a little flatter than 20 degrees. As mentioned above, between 15 and
20 degrees is fine.
See: Kate Sharpening post in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking for:
I've attached a couple of pictures to help explain this - you can see
that the sandpaper is getting pretty chewed up and will be replaced
soon.
I've also attached a picture of some of my carving tools and
accessories. As you can see, a tackle box makes a great tool holder.
Some of the things that come in handy are small files, dental picks
and a toothbrush for cleaning away small chips.
Bill
Kate,
I also recently started using the dockyard micro tools and did a
similar search to buy or at least get some info on the dockyard
sharpening jig. No luck, no email address, no phone number. I do have
their street address (printed on their product labels) and I typed up
a short letter to them requesting info. The letter is still in my
computer. If I eventually mail it and get info I will let you know
here. If you get any where, please do the same.
Larry
On Jan 9, 10:15 pm, "Kate" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides.
> I currently have about 20 Dockyard micro carving tools ranging from 1.5mm =
to
> 3mm in many different shapes.
> The manufacturer recommends a 20=B0 angle.
> These tools are SOOOOOOOOO tiny that I cannot afford to muck them up by
> being inaccurate. Just a few wrong swipes will completely wipe a blade out=
.
> I love them, they hold an edge nicely and though I have run them on my
> leather strop a little I would like to be able to keep them as nice as whe=
n
> they arrived.
>
> Dockyard recommended their own sharpening jig BUT I am unable to locate it=
> online, even at Woodcraft... which is where the tools came from. Short of
> finding a phone number I don't know what else to do.
>
> Eventually (hopefully sooner than later) I plan on getting more carving
> tools in larger sizes. Some good quality tools. I've been using some Chink=
y
> China stuff and they were great for getting my feet wet but now I'm ready =
to
> make an investment.
>
> Will you guys and gals give me the benefit of your experience, please?
>
> Here are a couple of things I am considering.
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3D5366http://www.woodcraft.c=
om/family.aspx?familyid=3D224&productid=3D03B30
> However, the shafts on the micro tools are round. Alignment may be an issu=
e.
>
> and this is the only thing I can come up with for my tools that are not fl=
athttp://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3D4364
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance :)
> --
> Kate
> ______
> /l ,[____],
> l-L -OlllllllO-
> ()_)-()_)--)_)
>
> The shortest distance between two points,
> is a lot more fun in a Jeep!
> Wash behind your ears before you reply :=AC)
"George" <[email protected]> wrote
SNIP
>
> There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are woodcarvers:
> each has there on method.
>
Their own method indeed. With the use of the tool as its own jig is the one
most employ.
***Ok, this is pretty much what I've been doing. However it seems that my
tools are sharp, just not as sharp as I would like them to be.
Means nothing coarser than a Washita or fine India is ever
used, because coarser takes longer to get the gross marks out by hand than
just honing fine to begin with.
*** I RARELY take one to a stone. The stone I have is a very fine white
arkansas oil stone. I'm just afraid I'll round the edges orget the angles
all buggered up.
Fortunately carving is not done by placing the tool in a jig at a fixed
position like a plane or shave. Means there's a _LOT_ of leeway in angles
and bevels. Isn't the numbers that make an edge sharp or a carver
competent, either. Makes the pursuit of the right number a waste of time
and money in my opinion.
*** ok, that kind of eases the stress out of it. In most cases I wouldn't
care but these micro tools have such a micro margin for error I'm hoping to
keep them good for as long as I can.
But if you must have it, make your basswood ramps at the proper angles and
slide them and the tool on your oiled stone. Or straddle the stone with the
ramp if you're using water.
*** Thanks! I never thought of making a wooden ramp!
Kate
Hi Charlie!
How ya doin?
Thanks for the input.
Believe it or not, I read enough about the slip strop that I knew it was -
just a strop.
BUT, I'm hoping it will be of use with the polishing of those little curved
edges.
I use a flat one now but it doesn't do anything for the other shapes.
So... what do I use for thos wee little inside edges and the round and V
groove ?
K.
"charlieb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Notoce that the SlipStrop POLISHES. I bought one
thinking it was a molded synthetic fine stone. It ain't.
It's wood - and a soft wood at that.
The Precision Sharpening System does flat bevels, which
is half of what's needed for flat, single bevel, chisels
and carving tools - you still need a flat and polished back.
This one won't do curved bevels and can't get into the
inside.
The Veritas sharpening guide is the older of the two
Veritas sharpening guides - and the more difficult
to set up. Made for flat tools though you could probably
use a triangular file to make a groove in it to hold
round things. The groove would have to be sqaure to
the ends or you'll get a skewed bevel. Doesn't do the
inside of curved or V carving tools though.
I suspect that what you'll end up with is some japanese
water stone "slips? - or synthetic stone versions.
charlieb
On Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:50:20 -0600, "Kate"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi Bill,
>Thank you for reposting.
>I have been having problems with my newsgroups lately and though I tried to
>reply to the first post you left with the photos I don't think it made it.
>I posted a photo of the strop I made a couple of months ago. I sharpen on
>one side and then run the blade over the side with no medium on the other
>side for a few swipes. Seemed like the thing to do.
>
>For a polishing medium I am using a white buffing compound. I'm thinking I
>might need to make another strop for rouge... what jewelers call white
>diamond. It's a coarser polish than rouge...whatta ya think?
>
>I'm not near sighted but I DO have a magnifying light on my bench. I'm
>thinking of trying to make a wooded guide (as suggested above) just to keep
>myself from rounding the edges.
>
>Kate
>
>
An angled piece of wood might not be a bad idea, but if your tools are
like mine, the edge angle is not perfectly consistant all along the
edge, and doesn't need to be. As long as it's somewhere in the 15-20
degree range you should be good to go. Also, a LITTLE rounding is not
going to kill you.
Bill
Sun, Jan 13, 2008, 12:06pm [email protected] (Bill) doth
sasyeth:
An angled piece of wood might not be a bad idea, but if your tools are
like mine, the edge angle is not perfectly consistant all along the
edge, and doesn't need to be. As long as it's somewhere in the 15-20
degree range you should be good to go. Also, a LITTLE rounding is not
going to kill you.
Tell her BELT SANDER.
Or, is she's paranoid about it, she could make some wheeled
holders/jigs at just the angle she wants Possibly need more than one
if taking that route..
BELT SANDER Kate.
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I quite agree.
Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Sun, 13 Jan 2008 16:26:15 -0500, [email protected] (J T)
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Tell her BELT SANDER.
>>
>> Or, is she's paranoid about it, she could make some wheeled
>>holders/jigs at just the angle she wants Possibly need more than one
>>if taking that route..
>>
>> BELT SANDER Kate.
>>
>
> I do use a belt sander on larger tools and can get a pretty good
> beginning of an edge on chisels, larger gouges, knives etc. But when
> it comes to Dockyard tools, a little touch on the belt sander and
> you'll come away with a nub ;0>
>
> Bill
>
Get a smaller sander. More specifically, this little toy tool set might
be just the ticket for sharpening tiny tools:
http://www.etoys.com/genProduct.html/PID/4757530/ctid/17?ci_sku=247145
&ci_src=14110944
(You may find it cheaper elsewhere. Mine was $20 from KB Toys.)
I've used the sanding disc several times to touch up the edge of the
lathe tool.
Oh, you'll probably want a somewhat beefy 6V power supply for it. The D
batteries in lathe mode last about 3 hours. I used an old model railroad
transformer for mine, which resulted in a variable speed lathe as well as
saving big bucks on batteries. (I don't know if a tiny "set
transformer" would work, but they can be picked up for a song...)
Puckdropper
--
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
marching band.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On Sun, 13 Jan 2008 16:26:15 -0500, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
>
> Tell her BELT SANDER.
>
> Or, is she's paranoid about it, she could make some wheeled
>holders/jigs at just the angle she wants Possibly need more than one
>if taking that route..
>
> BELT SANDER Kate.
>
I do use a belt sander on larger tools and can get a pretty good
beginning of an edge on chisels, larger gouges, knives etc. But when
it comes to Dockyard tools, a little touch on the belt sander and
you'll come away with a nub ;0>
Bill
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote
BELT SANDER Kate.
------
*** !! POKE !! ***
Now, you cut that out!
;¬Þ
K.
On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 21:15:31 -0600, "Kate"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides.
>I currently have about 20 Dockyard micro carving tools ranging from 1.5mm to
>3mm in many different shapes.
<snip>
>Thanks in advance :)
At the risk of being repetative, I've re-posted a response to a query
in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking below:
I have a set of six of the Dockyard micro tools and use some of them
quite often.
I initially sharpened them on a fine oil stone. It's just a matter of
being careful to maintain the proper angle (15-20 degrees). I have an
advantage of being near-sighted, so I can look very closely at the
edge while I'm sharpening : ). Then stropping on a leather strop
occasionally.
Over the years, I have managed to drop and break most of my stones, so
I've replaced them with a diamond hone, and I love it for setting the
initial edge.
Now I have a home made rig for maintaining the edge of my tools. It
consists of a piece of oak about 14 inches long and 2 inches wide,
with a handle carved on one end. I rounded one end for stropping the
inside of larger gouges and stretched an old leather belt around it
while wet (inside of small goughes anf v tools can be run alonf the
edge of the belt). When the leather dried, it shrank and tightened
up. On the other side, I glued a piece of plexiglass on the stick to
which is spray glued a piece of 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. This
works very well for touching up the edges of small tools. The best
stropping compound that I have found is the Flexcut Gold compound.
It's not necessary to maintain an exact 20 degree edge, just a flat
one. The Dockyard tools hold a pretty good edge and I prefer an angle
a little flatter than 20 degrees. As mentioned above, between 15 and
20 degrees is fine.
See: Kate Sharpening post in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking for:
I've attached a couple of pictures to help explain this - you can see
that the sandpaper is getting pretty chewed up and will be replaced
soon.
I've also attached a picture of some of my carving tools and
accessories. As you can see, a tackle box makes a great tool holder.
Some of the things that come in handy are small files, dental picks
and a toothbrush for cleaning away small chips.
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
An angled piece of wood might not be a bad idea, but if your tools are
like mine, the edge angle is not perfectly consistant all along the
edge, and doesn't need to be. As long as it's somewhere in the 15-20
degree range you should be good to go. Also, a LITTLE rounding is not
going to kill you.
Bill
Thanks again Bill :)
K.