Last day of work today.
left early , went down to the shop, fired up the compressor and it
didn't shut at the right pressure. Switch is still giving me a problem.
So I shut it, and go to check it.
I hear leaking in 2 spots..
My Home Depot (HUSKY) 3/8 to 1/4 adapter has blown... it just came
slightly apart. I don't even bother with the other leak... I notice that
it's wobbling... Thought the air filter was the culprit, thought it lost
the threads, being an HF unit. Not the case.
I throw the lever valves open and discharge it.
Boy I did not know how lucky I was until it was empty.
See the pics in alt binaries... had that blown with 100psi I am sure it
would have done some damage to the stuff across from it, paint cans and
wood storage.
--
Jeff
"woodchucker" wrote:
> Last day of work today.
> left early , went down to the shop, fired up the compressor and it
> didn't shut at the right pressure. Switch is still giving me a
> problem.
> So I shut it, and go to check it.
>
> I hear leaking in 2 spots..
> My Home Depot (HUSKY) 3/8 to 1/4 adapter has blown... it just came
> slightly apart. I don't even bother with the other leak... I notice
> that it's wobbling... Thought the air filter was the culprit,
> thought it lost the threads, being an HF unit. Not the case.
> I throw the lever valves open and discharge it.
>
> Boy I did not know how lucky I was until it was empty.
>
> See the pics in alt binaries... had that blown with 100psi I am sure
> it would have done some damage to the stuff across from it, paint
> cans and wood storage.
-----------------------------------------------------
Time to redo your plumbing.
You had an accident waiting to happen and it did.
You had placed an excessive bending load on a brass fitting and it
failed.
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, it's a more common error than you
might
think.
Lew
>> Time to redo your plumbing.
>>
>> You had an accident waiting to happen and it did.
>>
>> You had placed an excessive bending load on a brass fitting and it
>> failed.
>>
>> Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, it's a more common error than you
>> might
>> think.
>>
>> Lew
-----------------------------------------------------
"woodchucker" wrote:
> You might be right about that Lew, was not thinking that way.
> Might be time to move the filter and manifold to the wall and run
> flex line to it.
-----------------------------------------------------
For a few $ worth of pipe fittings, you can create a well engineered
manifold.
Get some 3/4 pipe nipples, 6''-8" long.
Assemble a manifold using these nipples and some 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2"
(side)
pipe tees.
At each tee, assemble a pair if 1/2" street ells in a 180 degree turn
around.
The idea is to get the air to reverse direction so any water vapor
drops out.
You now have a 1/2" female pipe fitting facing down that you can equip
with a hose coupling so that a hose will hang down when coupled
together.
Cap one end with a 3/4" cap and the other with a petcock to drain any
water
in the pipe manifold and a 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/4 tee on the entry end for
the 3/4
hose from the regulator.
Incline the 3/4" pipe about 1'4"/ft and you are good to go.
Install regulator at tank and connect regulator to manifold with a
3/4" hose
and you are good to go.
The manifold can be expanded at any time with more pipe fittings.
Have fun.
Lew
On 1/2/2014 11:50 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> The idea is to get the air to reverse direction so any water vapor
>> drops out.
>
> I use a piece of 1 1/2" steel pipe in a vertical position, and put the
> air into a t at the bottom of the pipe. Petcock to drain water. At the
> top of said 5 foot pip, the air comes out, cool and de-moistened.
>
> My idea is to get the air to move slowly, and plenty-O-surface area to
> cool. Slow means water will not get pushed upwards with the air flow.
> Cool means water does not condense in the lines as the air does not cool
> later downstream. I have a couple manifolds with disconnects in
> differing numbers so I can use them anywhere in the shop as needs arise.
>
> Jim in NC
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Yea, that's not a bad idea. I have similar in each of the drops, the t's
allow air to t off, but the moisture drops to the bottom of the pipe
where a ball valve allows me to relieve the line of moisture.
But starting out that way seems like a good idea too, as all the
moisture is there to begin with.
--
Jeff
On 12/31/2013 2:23 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "woodchucker" wrote:
>
>> Last day of work today.
>> left early , went down to the shop, fired up the compressor and it
>> didn't shut at the right pressure. Switch is still giving me a
>> problem.
>> So I shut it, and go to check it.
>>
>> I hear leaking in 2 spots..
>> My Home Depot (HUSKY) 3/8 to 1/4 adapter has blown... it just came
>> slightly apart. I don't even bother with the other leak... I notice
>> that it's wobbling... Thought the air filter was the culprit,
>> thought it lost the threads, being an HF unit. Not the case.
>> I throw the lever valves open and discharge it.
>>
>> Boy I did not know how lucky I was until it was empty.
>>
>> See the pics in alt binaries... had that blown with 100psi I am sure
>> it would have done some damage to the stuff across from it, paint
>> cans and wood storage.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Time to redo your plumbing.
>
> You had an accident waiting to happen and it did.
>
> You had placed an excessive bending load on a brass fitting and it
> failed.
>
> Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, it's a more common error than you
> might
> think.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
You might be right about that Lew, was not thinking that way.
Might be time to move the filter and manifold to the wall and run flex
line to it.
--
Jeff
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> The idea is to get the air to reverse direction so any water vapor drops
> out.
I use a piece of 1 1/2" steel pipe in a vertical position, and put the air
into a t at the bottom of the pipe. Petcock to drain water. At the top of
said 5 foot pip, the air comes out, cool and de-moistened.
My idea is to get the air to move slowly, and plenty-O-surface area to cool.
Slow means water will not get pushed upwards with the air flow. Cool means
water does not condense in the lines as the air does not cool later
downstream. I have a couple manifolds with disconnects in differing numbers
so I can use them anywhere in the shop as needs arise.
Jim in NC
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com