Jointing problems

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 15:49:20 -0500, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
>>glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
>>so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
>>Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>
>It sounds like you infeed table of the jointer is out of adjustment.

OOPs! make that outfeed table.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

>> Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
>> 1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
>> be even better than FLAT.

I thought "sprung joints" were supposed to have a slight gap in the
middle (1/16" might be too much) and touch at the ends.

-Zz

On 12/13/2012 8:13 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
>
>>> Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
>>> 1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
>>> be even better than FLAT.
>
> I thought "sprung joints" were supposed to have a slight gap in the
> middle (1/16" might be too much) and touch at the ends.
>
> -Zz
>
Yea, 1/16 is crazy big

a 1/64 is even on the large side. the spring is not that much
just enough that when you get shrinkage in the winter (the ends shrink
faster) it doesn't split at the ends.

Again it depends on your humidity differentials.

On Monday, December 10, 2012 2:16:55 PM UTC-8, Han wrote:
> Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]=
05: > Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak > jo=
inted to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but > have =
1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this > jointing on=
my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane? I tried re-jointing, bu=
t I think the beds of the jointer aren't long enough. I started a glue-up a=
s a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches more later). When the glue has=
dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my fancy Freud blade to make "join=
ted" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have another shelf to make and the n=
ot yet jointed boards line up better ... I tried to make a better shelf, an=
d muffed it up on the first try. Oh well trial and error hits again. -- Bes=
t regards Han email address is invalid

When you joint, get your down pressure onto the outfeed table as soon as po=
ssible then pull the bord across the blades with pressure down in the foirs=
t few inches to mid point of outfeed table.

"Han" wrote:

> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
> jointed to
> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have
> 1/16" or
> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my
> little
> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
-------------------------------------------------------------------
If this is that 4" wide, benchtop jointer, then your 42" long board
is the problem.

I always had the same problem on boards much over 30" long.

I ended up using a straight edge and a router with a pattern bit.

Lew

On 12/11/2012 10:40 AM, Han wrote:

> I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with my
> fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the boards.

Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may or
may not work.

Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/6-table-saw-jointing-jig-plans-straight-edge-no-jointer

That one is more complicated than necessary, but you get the idea.

This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for
years before buying a jointer:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6415&site=ROCKLER


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 12/10/2012 3:33 PM, Han wrote:
> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>
perfect. I like a sprung joint since the ends shrink faster than the middle.
Hard to say what you did wrong.

On 12/10/2012 4:16 PM, Han wrote:
> Han <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>> jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but
>> have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this
>> jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>
> I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long
> enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches
> more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my
> fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have
> another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I
> tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well
> trial and error hits again.
>
I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my
TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to straighten
overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood against the rip fence.

Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)

On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:

> Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
> above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
> it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.

I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not
come with, at a minimum, a splitter.

Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is
valid, some sheer political correctness.

Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of
same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and
bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of
political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear
of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness
that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is
little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 12/10/2012 2:33 PM, Han wrote:
> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

First thing to try:

Providing the machine/tables are setup properly, the infeed and outfeed
combined may not long enough for the board length, and possibly your
technique.

From your description, it sounds as if you may be inadvertently
applying downward pressure over the knives in the middle of the pass ...
it doesn't take much to get the symptom you are describing above.

Try another pass: when the leading edge of the board passes to the
outfeed table to the point where there is enough room (about a third of
half way), smoothly transfer one hand, then the other, so that _both_
are on the outfeed table, and far enough away from the knives so that
any downward pressure on the board is transferred to the outfeed table only.

See if that doesn't help ... if it doesn't, then you either have a setup
problem, or the length of the boards are just to great for the size of
the machine ... however, you can often overcome this with practiced
technique.

A plane would work, but may take more technique, so either check the
jointer setup, or practice your technique on some scrap until you get
the results you're looking for.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Bill <[email protected]> writes:
>Han wrote:
>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
>> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
>> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
>> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>>
>
>Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
>1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to

You have this backwards. You want a "sprung" joint, such that the ends
contact before the middle. 1/16" is a bit much for a sprung joint, however;
1/64th-1/32nd would be better. There are opinions on both sides of the
sprung-joint story.

scott

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> Han wrote:
>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>> jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
>> but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
>> this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>>
>
> Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
> 1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
> be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood
> away from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe
> a final pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your
> goal in mind. Then see how two of them clamp.
>
> Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
> if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking"
> part!
> : )
>
> Bill
>

Thanks, guys!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 12/10/2012 2:33 PM, Han wrote:
>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>> jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
>> but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
>> this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>
> First thing to try:
>
> Providing the machine/tables are setup properly, the infeed and
> outfeed combined may not long enough for the board length, and
> possibly your technique.

I haven't done too many of these operations, but they worked before ...

> From your description, it sounds as if you may be inadvertently
> applying downward pressure over the knives in the middle of the pass
> ... it doesn't take much to get the symptom you are describing above.

That's probably it!

> Try another pass: when the leading edge of the board passes to the
> outfeed table to the point where there is enough room (about a third
> of half way), smoothly transfer one hand, then the other, so that
> _both_ are on the outfeed table, and far enough away from the knives
> so that any downward pressure on the board is transferred to the
> outfeed table only.
>
> See if that doesn't help ... if it doesn't, then you either have a
> setup problem, or the length of the boards are just to great for the
> size of the machine ... however, you can often overcome this with
> practiced technique.
>
> A plane would work, but may take more technique, so either check the
> jointer setup, or practice your technique on some scrap until you get
> the results you're looking for.

Thanks, Karl! I'll try again ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
> jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but
> have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this
> jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long
enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches
more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my
fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have
another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I
tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well
trial and error hits again.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

[email protected] (Scott Lurndal) wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Bill <[email protected]> writes:
>>Han wrote:
>>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>>> jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
>>> but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
>>> this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>>>
>>
>>Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
>>1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
>
> You have this backwards. You want a "sprung" joint, such that the
> ends contact before the middle. 1/16" is a bit much for a sprung
> joint, however; 1/64th-1/32nd would be better. There are opinions on
> both sides of the sprung-joint story.
>
> scott

Thanks for the encouragement, Scott!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> Han wrote:
>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>> jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
>> but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
>> this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>
> How little is the joiner?
>
> It sounds like the outfeed table is a touch low...while you have
> pressure on the board on the infeed, the board end isn't getting
> cut...later, when you have pressure on the outfeed side of the board,
> the center is being cut.

Good thought!

Thanks!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>>jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but
>>have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this
>>jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>
> Are you talking edge jointing? Sled and tablesaw.

Good thought, but I can't fit a 42" long board on my sled :(
I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with my
fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the boards.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 12/11/2012 10:40 AM, Han wrote:
>
>> I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with
>> my fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the
>> boards.
>
> Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may
> or may not work.
>
> Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:
>
> http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/6-table-saw-jointing-jig-plans-str
> aight-edge-no-jointer
>
> That one is more complicated than necessary, but you get the idea.
>
> This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for
> years before buying a jointer:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6415&site=ROCKLER

It seemed to work - Now gluing it up

<https://plus.google.com/photos/106537810172954900431/albums/582074621296
8281185?authkey=CPPji_beg6TKkwE>

Looking at those setups now!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> You could use less glue.

Probably ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> Swingman wrote:
>> On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident
>>> described above. It reminds me just enough of what you described
>>> above, to mention it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS
>>> without a riving knife.
>>
>> I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does
>> not come with, at a minimum, a splitter.
>>
>> Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it
>> is valid, some sheer political correctness.
>>
>> Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
>> unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment
>> of same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits
>> and bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone
>> of political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging
>> fear of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug
>> assertiveness that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in
>> actuality is little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept
>> under the shop mat.
>>
>
> I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required
> on new saws?
>
> BTW, the page number is 12, and the letter was from Andy Olerud from
> Driggs, Idaho. Maybe he is reading?

My Craftsman table saw dates from the '80s, I believe. It came with a
splitter of sorts, complete with antikickback pawls and a bladeguard.
This combination is mounted on the back of the saw and it should be in
place for all cuts except dado. I do know I should have always used it,
because it is necessary. DAMHIKT!!

Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
antikickbackpawls, but you know ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> On 12/10/2012 2:33 PM, Han wrote:
>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>> jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
>> but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
>> this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>
> As another asked (and I've not seen answered) how little is "little"?
> A 4" benchtop w/ only 14-16" tables could be a trick, perhaps, but a
> full-size jointer, even if only 4" should be able to do 42" w/o too
> much trouble and certainly a 6".
>
> Not knowing the model, here's a link to the Delta sheet for one of the
> 6" guys that describes how the adjustments are done...
>
> Another suggested the outfeed table is low--that really isn't the
> symptom for that; generally there you'd see a gouge at the tail end of
> the cut as it drops of the table is low as the end of the piece comes
> off the infeed table.
>
> If the outfeed is high, it will cause a curved workpiece but the work
> will be slightly convex, not concave because as Fig 18 shows in the
> link the edge will ride on the front lip of the outfeed table
> initially as the work is held down on the infeed. But, if the
> pressure is shifted to the outfeed only, then if it is high, less will
> be taken from the trailing edge.
>
> The other possible problem is that the table sags...
>
> <http://servicenet.deltamachinery.com/Products/GetDocument?docName=En41
> 8-03-651-0001.pdf&productId=71513&
> productType=undefined&documentId=38554&
> translatedFileName=http://documents.dewalt.com/documents/English
> /Instruction%20Manual/Delta/En418-03-651-0001.pdf>
>
> Likely it's a combination of perhaps of technique and alignment. How
> near straight an edge did you have to start with? Did you try to take
> any initial curvature out by working either both ends from the middle
> if it were concave or just hit the middle a couple of times if convex?
> If it's long and had a bow to begin with, you may have just followed
> the initial shape and simply lessened it just a little...
>
> I've done (w/ effort) pieces as long a 6-ft on a little 6" Craftsman
> successfully so one _can_ stretch the limits w/ care and practice...
> :)

Thanks for the extensive comments. Much appreciated!

My jointer is a 6" Delta Shopmaster model JT160. The instructions say
nothing about my problem. I am rather sure it's my technique that did
this. I have to get the thing in a better place and practice with some
disposable wood. OTOH, one of the jigs that Karl (Swingman) mentioned
may do the trick too.

The boards were pretty straight-edged to begin with. But the edges were
a bit rounded. Perhaps I'll just glue the next set and then sand them
down, or the other way around.

At least this is/was a woodworking discussion !!!


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> Han wrote:
>
>> Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
>> antikickbackpawls, but you know ...
>
>
> I never even heard anyone mention that before, but it makes sense!
>
> If they lose their grip, it's probably time.
>
> How often do they mean by "occasionally"? That must have been written
> in by a lawyer. : )

Juast going by memory. I had to peruse the manual a little while ago. I
have always had a bit of trouble getting the blade adjusted to an angle,
and then back to 90°. The Wixey digital angle readout widget is always a
great help.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> "Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>
>> Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
>> antikickbackpawls, but you know ...
>
> Rip or Cross-Cut? ;~)

Doesn't really matter, John.
:)}

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:ka8a2a$hqk$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

> Many other times, these letter to the editor leave out key aspects of
> the incident which illustrate proof of the writer's foolishness and/or
> ignorance that was the cause of the problem to begin with.
>
> Such letters are generally the writer's own therapy.

Healing therapy, that is
:)}

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 12/11/2012 2:08 PM, Han wrote:
>
>> My jointer is a 6" Delta Shopmaster model JT160. The instructions
>> say nothing about my problem. I am rather sure it's my technique
>> that did this.
>
> Might not be all your technique ... spend some time being anal about
> the tables being set up properly. Chances that it was done to a gnat's
> ass at the factory is slim to none.
>
>> I have to get the thing in a better place and practice with some
>> disposable wood. OTOH, one of the jigs that Karl (Swingman)
>> mentioned may do the trick too.
>
> The general rule of thumb for the length of board you can practically
> joint on any particular jointer is 1 1/2 times the combined length of
> the tables.
>
> IOW, on a well set up jointer with a combined table length of +/- 30",
> and with proper technique, the average user can practically joint
> boards in the neighborhood of 45" in length.
>
> This can be increased with practiced technique, but probably not much
> more than double for all practical purposes, and that will take some
> practiced experience.

Then I was at the upper limit, or just a hair above ...
I'm going to try one of your jigs as soon as I have the chance.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> On 12/11/2012 2:08 PM, Han wrote:
> ...
>
>> My jointer is a 6" Delta Shopmaster model JT160. The instructions
>> say nothing about my problem. I am rather sure it's my technique
>> that did this. I have to get the thing in a better place and
>> practice with some disposable wood. OTOH, one of the jigs that Karl
>> (Swingman) mentioned may do the trick too.
>>
> ...
>
> OK, I wasn't familiar w/ it--that is a benchtop model.
>
> I did some searching and found several reviews and downloaded the
> manual. About half the reviews said they had trouble w/ the beds
> either not being coplanar or at least one or the other not
> flat/straight. That would certainly cause problems; the longer the
> work, the more evident a problem.
>
> One mentioned his outfeed table sagged and he was able to shim it--it
> looks to me from the picture on the cover of the manual that there are
> four mounting screws for the tables--I'd expect one could manage to
> fix a coplanar problem by judicious diddling thereat--if the tables
> aren't actually flat, however, there's nothing to be done but have
> them surface ground or get warranty service to repair the problem (as
> one review I saw said a local service center did for his).
>
> All in all, I'm sorry to say, it looks like a marginal machine but one
> would hope one could manage to tune one up...

I'm going to be busy doing other stuff until the beginning of next week.
But I will take a look and see what I can do to tune it up. Or I will
just build me a sled.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

dpb <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> On 12/11/2012 9:44 PM, Han wrote:
>> dpb<[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> ...
>
>>> All in all, I'm sorry to say, it looks like a marginal machine but
>>> one would hope one could manage to tune one up...
>>
>> I'm going to be busy doing other stuff until the beginning of next
>> week. But I will take a look and see what I can do to tune it up. Or
>> I will just build me a sled.
>
> I don't know what you do in general but if this one ends up not
> satisfying but you're limited in space, consider scouring around for
> one of the _old_ Delta|Rockwell/Delta 4" guys...
>
> <http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=11995>
>
> These won't set benchtop but don't take much space and while small are
> very much capable.
>
> If you really don't need the width for surface jointing wider material
> you can't go wrong. They come up now and again for a pittance
> (comparatively to anything of similar quality these days, anyway).

Thanks! Copied.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 12/11/2012 11:52 AM, Han wrote:
> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 12/11/2012 10:40 AM, Han wrote:
>>
>>> I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with
>>> my fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the
>>> boards.
>>
>> Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may
>> or may not work.
>>
>> Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:
>>
>> http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/6-table-saw-jointing-jig-plans-str
>> aight-edge-no-jointer
>>
>> That one is more complicated than necessary, but you get the idea.
>>
>> This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for
>> years before buying a jointer:
>>
>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6415&site=ROCKLER
>
> It seemed to work - Now gluing it up
>
> <https://plus.google.com/photos/106537810172954900431/albums/582074621296
> 8281185?authkey=CPPji_beg6TKkwE>
>
> Looking at those setups now!
>


I had a small 6" jointer that I bought in 83. It was used so seldom I
think I sharpened the knives 1 time. Considering it's capacity it was
easier to cut a straight edge with the TS fence for short stock and I
later built a sled for 8 footers. Now the track saw.

On 12/11/2012 1:21 PM, Bill wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>> On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
>>> above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
>>> it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.
>>
>> I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not
>> come with, at a minimum, a splitter.
>>
>> Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is
>> valid, some sheer political correctness.
>>
>> Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
>> unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of
>> same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and
>> bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of
>> political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear
>> of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness
>> that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is
>> little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.
>>
>
> I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required
> on new saws?

Long before the 70's They were fundamentally a part of the guard.

>
> BTW, the page number is 12, and the letter was from Andy Olerud from
> Driggs, Idaho. Maybe he is reading?

On 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:

>Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
>glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
>so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
>Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

Are you talking edge jointing? Sled and tablesaw.

Han wrote:
> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>

Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away
from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final
pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in
mind. Then see how two of them clamp.

Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part!
: )

Bill

On 12/10/2012 3:33 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Monday, December 10, 2012 2:16:55 PM UTC-8, Han wrote:
>> Han <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]: > Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak > jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but > have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this > jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane? I tried re-jointing, but I think the beds of the jointer aren't long enough. I started a glue-up as a trial with 3 boards (I need a few inches more later). When the glue has dried, I'll saw along the glueline with my fancy Freud blade to make "jointed" edges, then re-glue the boards. I have another shelf to make and the not yet jointed boards line up better ... I tried to make a better shelf, and muffed it up on the first try. Oh well trial and error hits again. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid
>
> When you joint, get your down pressure onto the outfeed table as soon as possible then pull the bord across the blades with pressure down in the foirst few inches to mid point of outfeed table.
>

i wonder if a hold down, similar to board buddies, would be a good idea
to make this an easier repeatable task.

tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/10/2012 3:58 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Han wrote:
>>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>>> jointed to
>>> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have
>>> 1/16" or
>>> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my
>>> little
>>> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>>>
>>
>> Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
>> 1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
>> be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away
>> from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final
>> pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in
>> mind. Then see how two of them clamp.
>>
>> Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
>> if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part!
>> : )
>>
>> Bill
> Interesting Bill.
> But very confusing.. fatter in the middle?????

I explored a little, and evidently I had it backwards (so Han is doing
it right)! My bad.







>
> in my mind a sprung joint is better. especially in the summer, less so
> in the winter. Wood shrinks faster at the ends.
>
> so having an extra swipe with a hand plane in the center is desirable .
>
> living in the NE it's highly desirable... In Louisiana maybe not.

Leon wrote:

>
> I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my
> TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to
> straighten overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood
> against the rip fence.
> Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)

Leon - stop it! Behave or we'll have Lew "respond" to your posts...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

PS - for any newbies out there... be careful of Leon - he is a closet
Festools Marketing Guy and he gets a lot of money for getting people here to
buy Festools. Be aware though - he will not send one of his Festools to you
to try out before buying. He's all Festools until he is asked to pony up...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/10/2012 3:58 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Han wrote:
>>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>>> jointed to
>>> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have
>>> 1/16" or
>>> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my
>>> little
>>> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>>>
>>
>> Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
>> 1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
>> be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away
>> from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final
>> pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in
>> mind. Then see how two of them clamp.
>>
>> Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
>> if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part!
>> : )
>>
>> Bill
> Interesting Bill.
> But very confusing.. fatter in the middle?????

I realize now I mixed up with the concept of "clamping cauls".
That's the problem with beginners... %-)



>
> in my mind a sprung joint is better. especially in the summer, less so
> in the winter. Wood shrinks faster at the ends.
>
> so having an extra swipe with a hand plane in the center is desirable .
>
> living in the NE it's highly desirable... In Louisiana maybe not.

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 +0000, Han wrote:

> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed
> to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have
> 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing
> on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

If you can get that down to a fat 64th, you've done it just right -
compressing that gap with clamps puts enough pressure on the ends to
ensure that they won't separate over time.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Han wrote:
> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
> jointed to glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends,
> but have 1/16" or so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with
> this jointing on my little Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

How little is the joiner?

It sounds like the outfeed table is a touch low...while you have pressure on
the board on the infeed, the board end isn't getting cut...later, when you
have pressure on the outfeed side of the board, the center is being cut.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Han wrote:
> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 12/11/2012 10:40 AM, Han wrote:
>>
>>> I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint
>>> with my fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then
>>> reglue the boards.
>>
>> Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may
>> or may not work.
>>
>> Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:
>>
>> http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/6-table-saw-jointing-jig-plans-str
>> aight-edge-no-jointer
>>
>> That one is more complicated than necessary, but you get the idea.
>>
>> This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for
>> years before buying a jointer:
>>
>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6415&site=ROCKLER
>
> It seemed to work - Now gluing it up
>
> <https://plus.google.com/photos/106537810172954900431/albums/582074621296
> 8281185?authkey=CPPji_beg6TKkwE>
>
> Looking at those setups now!

You could use less glue.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Leon wrote:
>
> I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my
> TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to straighten
> overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood against the rip
> fence.


Note of concern about this. In the latest issue of FWW (#231, Feb/2013,
p.7): There is a "letter to the editor" indicating that making a
"tapered cutoff", as described in an earlier issue (much like you
described above), resulted in a the offcut falling into the back of the
blade resulting in kickback and many stiches to the person's face. The
accident was due to the person not using a riving knife, which would
have separated the offcut, but the riving knife wasn't mentioned in the
article.

Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.

Bill






>
> Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)

On 12/10/2012 2:33 PM, Han wrote:
> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

As another asked (and I've not seen answered) how little is "little"? A
4" benchtop w/ only 14-16" tables could be a trick, perhaps, but a
full-size jointer, even if only 4" should be able to do 42" w/o too much
trouble and certainly a 6".

Not knowing the model, here's a link to the Delta sheet for one of the
6" guys that describes how the adjustments are done...

Another suggested the outfeed table is low--that really isn't the
symptom for that; generally there you'd see a gouge at the tail end of
the cut as it drops of the table is low as the end of the piece comes
off the infeed table.

If the outfeed is high, it will cause a curved workpiece but the work
will be slightly convex, not concave because as Fig 18 shows in the link
the edge will ride on the front lip of the outfeed table initially as
the work is held down on the infeed. But, if the pressure is shifted to
the outfeed only, then if it is high, less will be taken from the
trailing edge.

The other possible problem is that the table sags...

<http://servicenet.deltamachinery.com/Products/GetDocument?docName=En418-03-651-0001.pdf&productId=71513&
productType=undefined&documentId=38554&
translatedFileName=http://documents.dewalt.com/documents/English
/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/En418-03-651-0001.pdf>

Likely it's a combination of perhaps of technique and alignment. How
near straight an edge did you have to start with? Did you try to take
any initial curvature out by working either both ends from the middle if
it were concave or just hit the middle a couple of times if convex? If
it's long and had a bow to begin with, you may have just followed the
initial shape and simply lessened it just a little...

I've done (w/ effort) pieces as long a 6-ft on a little 6" Craftsman
successfully so one _can_ stretch the limits w/ care and practice... :)

--

Swingman wrote:
> On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:
>
>> Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
>> above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
>> it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.
>
> I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not
> come with, at a minimum, a splitter.
>
> Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is
> valid, some sheer political correctness.
>
> Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
> unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of
> same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and
> bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of
> political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear
> of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness
> that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is
> little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.
>

I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required
on new saws?

BTW, the page number is 12, and the letter was from Andy Olerud from
Driggs, Idaho. Maybe he is reading?

Han wrote:

> Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
> antikickbackpawls, but you know ...


I never even heard anyone mention that before, but it makes sense!

If they lose their grip, it's probably time.

How often do they mean by "occasionally"? That must have been written
in by a lawyer. : )

On 12/11/12 1:00 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:
>
>> Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described
>> above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention
>> it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.
>
> I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not
> come with, at a minimum, a splitter.
>
> Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is
> valid, some sheer political correctness.
>
> Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is
> unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of
> same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and
> bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of
> political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear
> of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness
> that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is
> little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.
>

Many other times, these letter to the editor leave out key aspects of
the incident which illustrate proof of the writer's foolishness and/or
ignorance that was the cause of the problem to begin with.

Such letters are generally the writer's own therapy.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/11/2012 2:08 PM, Han wrote:
...

> My jointer is a 6" Delta Shopmaster model JT160. The instructions say
> nothing about my problem. I am rather sure it's my technique that did
> this. I have to get the thing in a better place and practice with some
> disposable wood. OTOH, one of the jigs that Karl (Swingman) mentioned
> may do the trick too.
>
...

OK, I wasn't familiar w/ it--that is a benchtop model.

I did some searching and found several reviews and downloaded the
manual. About half the reviews said they had trouble w/ the beds either
not being coplanar or at least one or the other not flat/straight. That
would certainly cause problems; the longer the work, the more evident a
problem.

One mentioned his outfeed table sagged and he was able to shim it--it
looks to me from the picture on the cover of the manual that there are
four mounting screws for the tables--I'd expect one could manage to fix
a coplanar problem by judicious diddling thereat--if the tables aren't
actually flat, however, there's nothing to be done but have them surface
ground or get warranty service to repair the problem (as one review I
saw said a local service center did for his).

All in all, I'm sorry to say, it looks like a marginal machine but one
would hope one could manage to tune one up...

--

Han wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> Han wrote:
>>
>>> Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
>>> antikickbackpawls, but you know ...
>>
>>
>> I never even heard anyone mention that before, but it makes sense!
>>
>> If they lose their grip, it's probably time.
>>
>> How often do they mean by "occasionally"? That must have been written
>> in by a lawyer. : )
>
> Juast going by memory. I had to peruse the manual a little while ago. I
> have always had a bit of trouble getting the blade adjusted to an angle,
> and then back to 90°. The Wixey digital angle readout widget is always a
> great help.


I already picked up one of those, and I don't even have a TS yet!
If Grizzly would come up with a coupon, I'd click for a TS and a
jointer. I'm just in the shopping mood. Although something tells me I
may be sorry if I don't finish painting the work area first! : )

The Incra 1000/HD Miter Guage is still on sale for $119 at Amazon. I
just can't click on that w/o having the saw--at least I haven't yet. If
it should drop another 10 bucks or more, I think I'll have to!

Bill

Leon wrote:
> On 12/11/2012 1:21 PM, Bill wrote:

>> I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required
>> on new saws?
>
> Long before the 70's They were fundamentally a part of the guard.


My dads Craftsman TS was half-homemade. It sat resting waist high on a
metal bench with a piece of plywood supporting the saw (with a hole
underneath for the sawdust to fall through) and the motor behind it.
Cutting, fitting and varnishing the plywood top was my dad's early
woodworking projects (he was more of a gardener). Being a very young
kid, I watched. I think the saw was a hand-me-down in the late 60s, so
it was probably pretty old.

Cutting big pieces of plywood on it routinely pinched the blade and it
could kick a little--but it wasn't powerful like today's monsters. It
had no splitter and no guard and we weren't sophisticated enough for a
roller stand or outfeed table--we just used more hands.

It still sits right where it did, but my dad told me a few years before
he passed that he "didn't trust it" anymore. So I'll discard it someday
without turning it on again. Of course, cutting plywood gave me
shortness of breath even back then before dust masks were invented, so I
didn't use it much. And to be frank, I learned to stay plenty far away
when my dad ran it.

If it sounds interesting to you, and you're in SE Michigan, I can direct
you to where you can pick it up for free. It may be a valuable antique!
: ) Sorry for the long post.

Bill

Bill wrote:

>
> It still sits right where it did, but my dad told me a few years
> before he passed that he "didn't trust it" anymore. So I'll discard
> it someday without turning it on again. Of course, cutting plywood
> gave me shortness of breath even back then before dust masks were
> invented, so I didn't use it much. And to be frank, I learned to
> stay plenty far away when my dad ran it.
>

Maybe and maybe not Bill. Most of those old saws had a lot of the right
pieces to make them near great saws. They generally had nice flat cast iron
tops. They typically had a trunion mount system that is indeed inferior to
what you find on a quality cabinet saw, but is also useful enough for most
hobby woodworkers. Most of the shortcomings of those saws can easily enough
be overcome, and at reasonably low cost. They really are much better than
you might be thinking.


> If it sounds interesting to you, and you're in SE Michigan, I can
> direct you to where you can pick it up for free. It may be a
> valuable antique! : ) Sorry for the long post.
>

It's is good to see something like this end up in the hands of someone who
is willing to put a little time and money into turning it into a decent
saw - even if you're not interested in pursing that yourself.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 17:33:11 -0600, Leon wrote:

>> I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required
>> on new saws?
>
> Long before the 70's They were fundamentally a part of the guard.

I have a 1948 Delta "contractor" saw and it has an overhead guard and a
splitter. So yes, they've been around a while.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 17:33:11 -0600, Leon wrote:
>
>>> I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required
>>> on new saws?
>>
>> Long before the 70's They were fundamentally a part of the guard.
>
> I have a 1948 Delta "contractor" saw and it has an overhead guard and a
> splitter. So yes, they've been around a while.

I guess even long ago, folks didn't like having boards kicked-back at
them! : ) Thanks.

On 12/11/2012 9:44 PM, Han wrote:
> dpb<[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
...

>> All in all, I'm sorry to say, it looks like a marginal machine but one
>> would hope one could manage to tune one up...
>
> I'm going to be busy doing other stuff until the beginning of next week.
> But I will take a look and see what I can do to tune it up. Or I will
> just build me a sled.

I don't know what you do in general but if this one ends up not
satisfying but you're limited in space, consider scouring around for one
of the _old_ Delta|Rockwell/Delta 4" guys...

<http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=11995>

These won't set benchtop but don't take much space and while small are
very much capable.

If you really don't need the width for surface jointing wider material
you can't go wrong. They come up now and again for a pittance
(comparatively to anything of similar quality these days, anyway).

--

Zz Yzx wrote:
>
>>> Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
>>> 1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
>>> be even better than FLAT.
>
> I thought "sprung joints" were supposed to have a slight gap in the
> middle (1/16" might be too much) and touch at the ends.
>
> -Zz
>

Yeah, I corrected that in a previous post. I was thinking of clamping
"cauls" (that are fatter in the middle). While I'm at it, "convex" is a
nicer word than fatter.

Bill

Bill wrote:
> Zz Yzx wrote:
>>
>>>> Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it
>>>> were 1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's
>>>> supposed to be even better than FLAT.
>>
>> I thought "sprung joints" were supposed to have a slight gap in the
>> middle (1/16" might be too much) and touch at the ends.
>>
>> -Zz
>>
>
> Yeah, I corrected that in a previous post. I was thinking of clamping
> "cauls" (that are fatter in the middle). While I'm at it, "convex"
> is a nicer word than fatter.
>


Does this dress make my fanny look "convex"? Nah - "fatter" has a better
ring to it...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 12/10/2012 8:35 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> I used to straighten my boards with a piece of 12" wide plywood and my
>> TS. Clamp the board to the plywood with the edge you want to
>> straighten overhanging the plywood. Run the edge of the plywood
>> against the rip fence.
>> Now I use my Festool track saw. ;~)
>
> Leon - stop it! Behave or we'll have Lew "respond" to your posts...
>

Who?

On 12/10/2012 3:58 PM, Bill wrote:
> Han wrote:
>> Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak
>> jointed to
>> glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
>> so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my
>> little
>> Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?
>>
>
> Me Who Has No Experience says: Your glue-up would go better if it were
> 1/16" (or probably even more) FATTER in the middle--that's supposed to
> be even better than FLAT. With that in mind, I would hack out wood away
> from the middle, of course, the same amount on each side. Maybe a final
> pass through the jointer, smoothing off just 1/32" with your goal in
> mind. Then see how two of them clamp.
>
> Please let me know how works out! Hopefully, someone will correct me
> if I'm too far off base. Good luck! And, careful on the "hacking" part!
> : )
>
> Bill
Interesting Bill.
But very confusing.. fatter in the middle?????

in my mind a sprung joint is better. especially in the summer, less so
in the winter. Wood shrinks faster at the ends.

so having an extra swipe with a hand plane in the center is desirable .

living in the NE it's highly desirable... In Louisiana maybe not.

"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>
> Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the
> antikickbackpawls, but you know ...

Rip or Cross-Cut? ;~)

On 10 Dec 2012 20:33:37 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:

>Trying to get 42" long 6" nominal width boards of nice white oak jointed to
>glue up for a shelf. Now the boards touch at the ends, but have 1/16" or
>so gaps in the middle. What did I do wrong with this jointing on my little
>Delta jointer? Should I try a handplane?

It sounds like you infeed table of the jointer is out of adjustment.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On 12/11/2012 2:08 PM, Han wrote:

> My jointer is a 6" Delta Shopmaster model JT160. The instructions say
> nothing about my problem. I am rather sure it's my technique that did
> this.

Might not be all your technique ... spend some time being anal about the
tables being set up properly. Chances that it was done to a gnat's ass
at the factory is slim to none.

> I have to get the thing in a better place and practice with some
> disposable wood. OTOH, one of the jigs that Karl (Swingman) mentioned
> may do the trick too.

The general rule of thumb for the length of board you can practically
joint on any particular jointer is 1 1/2 times the combined length of
the tables.

IOW, on a well set up jointer with a combined table length of +/- 30",
and with proper technique, the average user can practically joint boards
in the neighborhood of 45" in length.

This can be increased with practiced technique, but probably not much
more than double for all practical purposes, and that will take some
practiced experience.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)