We had a power transformer catch on fire in the neighborhood this week and
we lost power for several hours. Our TV was on when the power went poof and
when power was restored, we turned on the TV only to see all the magic smoke
coming out the back....
Off to the store, new SONY 42" LCD wide-screen (love it) but did not like
any of the stands they had. Besides being ridiculous in price, wife thought
I needed a project.......(ya can see a new tool creeping in here
can'tcha......;-)
I'll build one okay but kinda wondering about how I can finish it so it
matches the silver/gray color of the TV set. Anyone ever get into matching
paint finish between plastic and wood? I'll probably use poplar to build
the stand/cabinet. I remember reading a post here from one of the pro's
that told how he had a similar problem and how he finally resolved the
problem but I haven't been able to find it in the archives.
I have a compressor and could get a spray gun and visit our local Sherman
Williams - or try the borgs to see if they have anything in a spray can that
is close. I seriously doubt I'll find a good match from what I recall seeing
in color choices, so custom mix is probably the only way.
Painted finishes look different when applied to various surfaces (plastic,
metals, wood, composites, etc.). Any advice on what primer, or particular
paints I should be using?
Thank you,
Bob S.
> Off to the store, new SONY 42" LCD wide-screen (love it) but did not like
> any of the stands they had. Besides being ridiculous in price, wife
> thought I needed a project.......(ya can see a new tool creeping in here
> can'tcha......;-)
>
> I'll build one okay but kinda wondering about how I can finish it so it
> matches the silver/gray color of the TV set. Anyone ever get into
> matching paint finish between plastic and wood? I'll probably use
> poplar to build the stand/cabinet. I remember reading a post here from
> one of the pro's that told how he had a similar problem and how he
> finally resolved the problem but I haven't been able to find it in the
> archives.
Given any thought to going the other way and matching the TV to the stand?
It'd solve one set of problems.
I don't mean replacing the exterior TV surfaces (ala a certain IPod), I'm
sure you wouldn't want to void your warranty that quickly! <G> But the
latest "style" of TV's here in Oz are very streamlined, plasticky and IMHO
tacky... although I like the performance of our new 'un I hate the look.
So, some thought has been given to making a "classic" cabinet for it to
reside in...
--
- Andy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Another great idea from the man who brought you Beer Milkshakes!
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 23:16:18 -0500, Patriarch
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:hKhAe.22130$e%[email protected]:
>
><snip>
>> Painted finishes look different when applied to various surfaces
>> (plastic, metals, wood, composites, etc.). Any advice on what primer,
>> or particular paints I should be using?
>>
>
>I agree with the harmonize idea Tom and the others espouse.
>
>The primer/filler question is the one with current applicability for me, as
>I'm doing a painted finish vanity & closet system. Latex caulk isn't going
>to cut it for filling brad/finishing nail holes, and I'd like to get a
>nice, self leveling finish on the painted surfaces.
>
>I'm assuming an alkyd satin painted finish. What's a good sandable filler?
>And is Zinsser BIN as good a choice as any?
It's not self-leveling, but bondo works pretty good for filling areas
that are to be painted. I've used it to repair large broken areas
(read "holes") in a couple of doors for a client, and you couldn't
even see where the repair had been afterwards. Before painting, I set
the door on a couple of saw horses, and stood on the patch and bounced
a little to make sure it was strong- and it was fine. Just wear a
mask when you sand it- that gunk can make you pretty sick without one.
>Patriarch
To all that responded - Thank you.
Some good ideas to ponder. I certainly like the new TV (image) but the color
of the case is not exactly a fit with our contemporary furniture. The more
I think about it, the less I like the idea of making the stand look like the
TV and going with Tom's idea (that's why we pay him the big bucks here...).
Did a bit of snooping to see what others have done and found some sites
where they have made stands that "are in harmony" with the rest of the room.
So it looks like that will be the best overall solution. Easy enough now,
but when I was initially standing in front of that monster pondering what I
would do, all I could think of was matching "it" and nothing else at the
time.
Thank you and as usual - good input.
Bob S.
Lee,
Good idea but I've looked at a number of stands from those that are made of
glass shelves to give it the floating look, to stands painted flat black and
many in between. The TV itself doesn't fit with much unless it's a modern
look. Making it "float" in our room would be like wearing a polka dot suit
to a dinner party - just doesn't work. This things needs an anchor now that
I've had some time to think about it and gotten other ideas from those that
have had this kind of problem. I don't know how the "whole look" will end
up at the moment but the stand will be more in line with our early
depression furniture. Film at 5 of me being slapped upside the head for
that remark by SWMBO....
Thanks,
Bob S.
"Lee Michaels" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> To all that responded - Thank you.
>>
>> Some good ideas to ponder. I certainly like the new TV (image) but the
>> color of the case is not exactly a fit with our contemporary furniture.
>> The more I think about it, the less I like the idea of making the stand
>> look like the TV and going with Tom's idea (that's why we pay him the big
>> bucks here...).
>>
>> Did a bit of snooping to see what others have done and found some sites
>> where they have made stands that "are in harmony" with the rest of the
>> room. So it looks like that will be the best overall solution. Easy
>> enough now, but when I was initially standing in front of that monster
>> pondering what I would do, all I could think of was matching "it" and
>> nothing else at the time.
>>
>> Thank you and as usual - good input.
>>
>> Bob S.
> I should mention this.
>
> I went to a computer trade show a few years back. There was a guy there
> who was a painter. It turned out the many women objected to computers
> being in a room where it "clashed" with the decorator theme. Since he was
> a very good "theme or decorator" painter, he began to get calls from these
> folks to come over and paint the computer case. He also painted monitors,
> printers, etc.
>
> He could do anything from woodgrain to marble. Even the family pets could
> end up on the box. He was quite good. He got $300 for about two hours
> work. It was a full time activity for him and he earned a good living. He
> often had four or more jobs a day. All the decortors in town used him.
>
> Just a thought. You might consider this approach.
>
> I thought is was kind of silly myself. But the demand was there and he did
> well at it.
>
>
>
Thanks for the reply. As for your problem, use Bondo - works great, no
shrinkage and certainly paintable...
Bob S.
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:hKhAe.22130$e%[email protected]:
>
> <snip>
>> Painted finishes look different when applied to various surfaces
>> (plastic, metals, wood, composites, etc.). Any advice on what primer,
>> or particular paints I should be using?
>>
>
> I agree with the harmonize idea Tom and the others espouse.
>
> The primer/filler question is the one with current applicability for me,
> as
> I'm doing a painted finish vanity & closet system. Latex caulk isn't
> going
> to cut it for filling brad/finishing nail holes, and I'd like to get a
> nice, self leveling finish on the painted surfaces.
>
> I'm assuming an alkyd satin painted finish. What's a good sandable
> filler?
> And is Zinsser BIN as good a choice as any?
>
> Patriarch
I agree with the harmony notion, but how about harmonizing with other
furniture in the room.
SteveP.
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:hKhAe.22130$e%[email protected]...
> We had a power transformer catch on fire in the neighborhood this week and
> we lost power for several hours. Our TV was on when the power went poof
> and when power was restored, we turned on the TV only to see all the magic
> smoke coming out the back....
>
> Off to the store, new SONY 42" LCD wide-screen (love it) but did not like
> any of the stands they had. Besides being ridiculous in price, wife
> thought I needed a project.......(ya can see a new tool creeping in here
> can'tcha......;-)
>
> I'll build one okay but kinda wondering about how I can finish it so it
> matches the silver/gray color of the TV set. Anyone ever get into
> matching paint finish between plastic and wood? I'll probably use poplar
> to build the stand/cabinet. I remember reading a post here from one of
> the pro's that told how he had a similar problem and how he finally
> resolved the problem but I haven't been able to find it in the archives.
>
> I have a compressor and could get a spray gun and visit our local Sherman
> Williams - or try the borgs to see if they have anything in a spray can
> that is close. I seriously doubt I'll find a good match from what I recall
> seeing in color choices, so custom mix is probably the only way.
>
> Painted finishes look different when applied to various surfaces (plastic,
> metals, wood, composites, etc.). Any advice on what primer, or particular
> paints I should be using?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bob S.
>
>
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> To all that responded - Thank you.
>
> Some good ideas to ponder. I certainly like the new TV (image) but the
> color of the case is not exactly a fit with our contemporary furniture.
> The more I think about it, the less I like the idea of making the stand
> look like the TV and going with Tom's idea (that's why we pay him the big
> bucks here...).
>
> Did a bit of snooping to see what others have done and found some sites
> where they have made stands that "are in harmony" with the rest of the
> room. So it looks like that will be the best overall solution. Easy
> enough now, but when I was initially standing in front of that monster
> pondering what I would do, all I could think of was matching "it" and
> nothing else at the time.
>
> Thank you and as usual - good input.
>
> Bob S.
I should mention this.
I went to a computer trade show a few years back. There was a guy there who
was a painter. It turned out the many women objected to computers being in a
room where it "clashed" with the decorator theme. Since he was a very good
"theme or decorator" painter, he began to get calls from these folks to come
over and paint the computer case. He also painted monitors, printers, etc.
He could do anything from woodgrain to marble. Even the family pets could
end up on the box. He was quite good. He got $300 for about two hours work.
It was a full time activity for him and he earned a good living. He often
had four or more jobs a day. All the decortors in town used him.
Just a thought. You might consider this approach.
I thought is was kind of silly myself. But the demand was there and he did
well at it.
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:hKhAe.22130$e%[email protected]:
<snip>
> Painted finishes look different when applied to various surfaces
> (plastic, metals, wood, composites, etc.). Any advice on what primer,
> or particular paints I should be using?
>
I agree with the harmonize idea Tom and the others espouse.
The primer/filler question is the one with current applicability for me, as
I'm doing a painted finish vanity & closet system. Latex caulk isn't going
to cut it for filling brad/finishing nail holes, and I'd like to get a
nice, self leveling finish on the painted surfaces.
I'm assuming an alkyd satin painted finish. What's a good sandable filler?
And is Zinsser BIN as good a choice as any?
Patriarch
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:5FZAe.26644$e%[email protected]:
> Lee,
>
> Good idea but I've looked at a number of stands from those that are
> made of glass shelves to give it the floating look, to stands painted
> flat black and many in between. The TV itself doesn't fit with much
> unless it's a modern look. Making it "float" in our room would be like
> wearing a polka dot suit to a dinner party - just doesn't work. This
> things needs an anchor now that I've had some time to think about it
> and gotten other ideas from those that have had this kind of problem.
> I don't know how the "whole look" will end up at the moment but the
> stand will be more in line with our early depression furniture. Film
> at 5 of me being slapped upside the head for that remark by SWMBO....
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob S.
>
Integrating our ever-larger viewscreens is becoming a real challenge.
Particularly challenging, when, even with sattelite and TiVo, there is so
frequently nothing appealing available.
Now about the library shelving...
Patriarch
Patriarch wrote:
> The primer/filler question is the one with current applicability for me, as
> I'm doing a painted finish vanity & closet system. Latex caulk isn't going
> to cut it for filling brad/finishing nail holes, and I'd like to get a
> nice, self leveling finish on the painted surfaces.
>
> I'm assuming an alkyd satin painted finish. What's a good sandable filler?
> And is Zinsser BIN as good a choice as any?
If you have the patience, nothing on the planet will beat epoxy fairing
compound to fill depressiond, nail heads, etc on a surface that will be
painted.
Mix up maybe 2-4 oz or catalyzed resin (use a slow hardner), then mix in
microballoons to achieve a consistancy of mayo.
Use a popsicle stick, etc and wear protective clothing.
Fill all depressions proud, then allow at least 24-48 hours to cure
before sanding (I did say patience didn't I?)
You are good to go.
Lew
In article <hKhAe.22130$e%[email protected]>,
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote:
[snip]
>
> Painted finishes look different when applied to various surfaces (plastic,
> metals, wood, composites, etc.). Any advice on what primer, or particular
> paints I should be using?
>
Consider going with laminates. Many of the companies like Wilsonart,
Arborite, Micarta, and Formica now make metallic laminates exactly for
the type of thing you're building.
I agree with Mr. Watson that it might be a better choice to harmonize
with the Sony's colour than trying to match it... although I'm pretty
sure Wilsonart has a real close match to that particular silver.
(They also have some cool 'real' metals on laminate that work with
ordinary wood-working tools.)
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 23:16:18 -0500, the opaque Patriarch
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:hKhAe.22130$e%[email protected]:
>
><snip>
>> Painted finishes look different when applied to various surfaces
>> (plastic, metals, wood, composites, etc.). Any advice on what primer,
>> or particular paints I should be using?
>
>I agree with the harmonize idea Tom and the others espouse.
Ditto that.
>The primer/filler question is the one with current applicability for me, as
>I'm doing a painted finish vanity & closet system. Latex caulk isn't going
>to cut it for filling brad/finishing nail holes, and I'd like to get a
>nice, self leveling finish on the painted surfaces.
>
>I'm assuming an alkyd satin painted finish. What's a good sandable filler?
>And is Zinsser BIN as good a choice as any?
I tried Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty but it didn't adhere to the
latex paint very well. I'll bet one of 3M's 3 glazing putties would
work well. They're very fine and easily sandable.
--
- Tom Mix Died For Your Sins -
--------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive, Sin-free Website Development
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 22:58:21 GMT, "BobS" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a compressor and could get a spray gun and visit our local Sherman
>Williams - or try the borgs to see if they have anything in a spray can that
>is close. I seriously doubt I'll find a good match from what I recall seeing
>in color choices, so custom mix is probably the only way.
>
>Painted finishes look different when applied to various surfaces (plastic,
>metals, wood, composites, etc.). Any advice on what primer, or particular
>paints I should be using?
>
>Thank you,
>
>Bob S.
>
Sherwin Williams has regional tech centers that you can call and ask
about the problem.
I'd think about using MDF as your base, if you're going to paint.
Then again, I'd think about doing something that is in harmony with
but does not match the TV, rather than go through the agony of trying
to develop an exact match.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I'll build one okay but kinda wondering about how I can finish it so it
> matches the silver/gray color of the TV set.
I built a stand form my TV for two reasons.
1. I did not like the style of the one that were offered
2. I did not want a big piece of silver/gray plastic looking stuff sitting
in the room.
I don' tknow your taste in furniture or the decor of the room so maybe
silver/gray works for you. I'd try a good paint store to see if they can
make a match.
You can see mine about 2/3 of the way down the page
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/woodworking.htm Originally I was going to
have doors on the front but found drawers are far more practical with full
extensions. Easy to get to DVD's CD's etc.
I had mine for over a year before we could finally get High Definition from
the cable company. What a difference!
Highland Pairos wrote:
>> I agree with the harmony notion, but how about harmonizing with other
>> furniture in the room.
>>
>> SteveP.
The nice thing about spray cans is that you can just buy one and see how it
works out. There are a variety of metal colors and see Wal-mart if you
have one near by, several different "brands" are made by the same company.
If you aren't used to using the spray cans you'll need some practice to get
it looking okay.
Josie