Hi All,
Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
flooring on the main level of our home. It seems a table saw
and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
strips. Would you recommend an entry level table saw? I have
no experience with woodworking tools. And I don't plan to do
a do a lot of woodworking in the future either (except maybe
build a simple book case or cut shelving for the garage).
Also, is it worthwhile spending upwards of $100 on a circular
saw for cutting solid hardwood flooring? Please recommend and/or
share your experience with different brands. I don't mind used
tools either.
Thanks in advance.
- Joydeep -
On 1/12/2005 2:54 PM US(ET), Joydeep Buragohain took fingers to keys,
and typed the following:
>Thanks for the responses so far. I don't like the look of
>prefinished flooring (prefer a smooth finish). Took a class
>in a local hardwood flooring store. Mostly board&chalk
>type of class with some hands-on with floor nailers etc.
>The instructor advised using a table saw and a chop saw.
>I was wondering if I could get by without a chop saw if I
>don't make angle cuts.
>
>
I suppose that this floor will be installed in a perfectly rectangular
room and the boards will fit between opposite walls completely without
any edge boards having to be ripped to fit. Also there are no heat pipes
coming up through the floor, or having no doorways or closets, or
outside corners, where a piece might have to be notched, or any sawing
in any direction other than straight across the board.
If so, all you need is a mitre saw. If not, you may also need a saber
saw and a saw capable of ripping boards. Once you start, you will find
that you may need other tools that you may, or may not, have at hand.
Drill with hole saw, plane, chisels, etc.
>I came out of the class feeling that it is a physically
>demanding process, but does not require the skill of an
>experienced woodworker to do an okay job. Currently I plan
>to do the install myself and the finishing professionally
>done. This gives me the flexibility to spend a bit more on
>the flooring. If I get the whole thing done professionally,
>my choices of flooring will be quite limited (my budget is
>not as huge as the trade deficit ;-).
>
>I appreciate the advice about starting with a small area.
>That way I will very soon know whether I am upto it or not.
>
>Back to the tool issue, looks like a miter saw is the way to
>go. Any specific things that I should look for in such a saw?
>Thanks again.
>
>- Joydeep -
>
>
>
--
Bill
I think you would be well advised to start with something smaller,
simpler, and less permanent. Take a basic woodworking class, build a
birdhouse and a shelf. That way you will find out if you have, or can
develop, the skills you will need, without sinking a ton of money into
tools. If you start with a floor, and it doesn't go really well, you
are stuck with an eyesore for a long long time.
Also, add up all the costs you will incur for tools you may never use
again. They don't just nail floors down; you need specific tools to
force the boards into place and hold them while you fasten them. Unless
you are really good with a hammer, you will need a nailer to keep from
denting your floor. What about the subflooring? You will need the
skills and knowledge to evaluate that, and possibly replace at least
some of it. What about clearances for doors and moldings? What about
evaluating the lumber; not every supplier will give you quality goods.
Not to be hypercritical, but I think you have the skills involved mixed
up. It is much harder to install a floor than to finish one, so I would
defer this until you have evaluated and honed your skills; if it has to
be done right away, I would put your money into a skilled installer, and
do the finishing yourself. Even if you screw up the finishing, which is
hard to do with the finishes available today, it is a lot easier to sand
it off and refinish, than to salvage a poor installation.
Having said that, I hope you end up with a nice floor. I don't think
there is anything more attractive in a home than a nice hardwood floor,
and I can't understand why the whole country went through an insane fit
of putting wall-to-wall carpeting over good floors. If you decide to go
ahead, look into getting quarter-sawn lumber; it costs more but the
grain pattern is much more attractive.
[email protected] wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
> flooring on the main level of our home. It seems a table saw
> and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
> strips. Would you recommend an entry level table saw? I have
> no experience with woodworking tools. And I don't plan to do
> a do a lot of woodworking in the future either (except maybe
> build a simple book case or cut shelving for the garage).
>
> Also, is it worthwhile spending upwards of $100 on a circular
> saw for cutting solid hardwood flooring? Please recommend and/or
> share your experience with different brands. I don't mind used
> tools either.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> - Joydeep -
>
--
SPAMBLOCK NOTICE! To reply to me, delete the h from apkh.net, if it is
there.
Ray wrote:
>>Yup. A bit painstaking, but from down in the basement try to find the
>>squeaks as someone walks across the floor. A small amount of shimming in
>>the subfloor should quiet everything down.
>>--
>>
>>-Mike-
>
>
> I guess I better get a pallet of cedar siding and get started! Thanks,
> maybe I'll try the hallway first to see how many shims it takes. I have A
> LOT of squeaks.
>
>
Sometimes adding some bracing between joists can help, too.
--
SPAMBLOCK NOTICE! To reply to me, delete the h from apkh.net, if it is
there.
I might suggest that you look into installing pergo or another brand of
laminate flooring instead.
It's a lot easier for do it yourself.
I'm not an expert on hardwood flooring, but I know enough from watching
friends that it's a very difficult job.
On the other hand, laminate flooring is almost idiot proof.
You could get by with only a circular saw for doing laminate. A mitre
box would be ideal, but if you were careful, you could use a circular
saw, as the cut ends only go against the wall and are covered with
molding. Of course, the mitre box would be good to do that molding :).
But I cut a lot of my pergo with a circular saw, simply to avoid
dulling the $80 blade on my mitre saw. Laminate flooring is very hard
on saw blades.
If you are still hell bent on doing hardwood, start off by doing the
smallest room. You might pay more for materials, but you'll get a
hands-on feel for what you're getting yourself into.
Thanks for the responses so far. I don't like the look of
prefinished flooring (prefer a smooth finish). Took a class
in a local hardwood flooring store. Mostly board&chalk
type of class with some hands-on with floor nailers etc.
The instructor advised using a table saw and a chop saw.
I was wondering if I could get by without a chop saw if I
don't make angle cuts.
I came out of the class feeling that it is a physically
demanding process, but does not require the skill of an
experienced woodworker to do an okay job. Currently I plan
to do the install myself and the finishing professionally
done. This gives me the flexibility to spend a bit more on
the flooring. If I get the whole thing done professionally,
my choices of flooring will be quite limited (my budget is
not as huge as the trade deficit ;-).
I appreciate the advice about starting with a small area.
That way I will very soon know whether I am upto it or not.
Back to the tool issue, looks like a miter saw is the way to
go. Any specific things that I should look for in such a saw?
Thanks again.
- Joydeep -
Thanks for your advice. I do'nt like the beveled edges of
prefinished strips. Prefer a smooth finish from wall to wall.
I do understand that going the prefinished way is lot more
economical and less messy than the unfinished way.
I am a novice, but wish to learn some of the home improvement
skills along the way. I reasoned that if I do the install work
myself, I have the option of getting higher quality flooring
material.
Thanks again.
- Joydeep -
Better check with the finishers first on prices. My brother finished
building his own house 2 years ago. Unfotunately ;-), I live 350 miles
away and couldn't help him much.
But when he shopped around for a drywall finisher he got quotes like
"$3,500 if I hang the drywall, $5,500 if you want to hang the drywall
yourself"
Many of the guys gave him the same type answer. The pros find it
easier and less time consuming to finish a job they did the prep work
on.
They also might not give you any kind of warranty if you lay it.
While we're on the hardwood floor topic...
I live in a ranch house with a full basement so I have access to the
subfloor. You know whats coming, right?
I have squeaks everywhere! The subfloor is 6" TG pine and the floor is
oak 2" by 3' and 4'.
The house is about 50 years old and yes I still ocassionally find
remants of a staple from the carpets that were pulled up before we
bought.
Any remedies for squeaks besides pull & reinstall?
I just found this web site and so this may be of no use to you. I used
to have a business installing and refinishing hardwood floors. Your
tool needs are of course based on a few criteria. First the type of
flooring you will be using. If you are installing the standard tounge
and groove strip flooring measuring 2. 1/2" wide by 3/4 inches thick in
random lengths then any chop saw will work. If you don't plan to use
the tool a lot after this project then I would go for an inexpensive
brand and spend the money for a good blade. Freud is a decent brand of
blade available at most home improvement stores. An 8 1/4 inch saw will
be adequate. Delta makes a good one for less than $100.00. This next
issue is where I disagree with most of the answers you seem to have
gotten.If the dimensions of your room will require cutting any boards
lengthwise (ripping) then you are only safe using a table saw. In
addition a table saw will include a miter attatchment which will work
just as well to cut any short ends to length or at an angle.If you are
installing a plank floor ( board widths greater that 3.5 " then you
will have to have a chop saw wth a 10 to 12" blade which is quite a bit
more expensive. Here again the table saw will do any width. If you plan
to install laminate flooring the table saw again is your best bet.
However with laminate flooring you will need to use a blade made for
this type of material. These blades have more teeth. Again with the
table saw spend less on the saw and more on the blade. A carbide blade
is best and a small 10' benchtop saw will do nicely. The saws are also
available on-line or from companies like Harbor Frieght Tools or the
Tool Crib. The short of it is the same advice I give to any novice
woodworker asking what the one most useful cutting tool is. The table
saw is the most widely useful tool in woodworking of any kind. If you
have any other questions on this matter feel free to e-mail me.
[email protected]. Also if you opt for my advice invest in a good
push block and safety glasses and follow the safety instructions
included with the tool. A power saw will not even slow down as your
fingers pass through the blade!
I know some people hate laminate, but it's not junk if you buy the
quality stuff.
Very durable, withstands spills well. Installs easy.
If you don't like the look, I can respect that, but it's a quality
product that wears well and is very durable.
I've seen a couple amatuers attempt to install hardwood flooring, and
it did not come out well. They particularly had trouble doing the last
few courses near the wall. When you can't get the nailer between the
studs (since the drywall is up),
it's difficult.
I think you overestimating the typical amateur here. I've seen bungled
up jobs.
I don't know the original poster, but it seemed he had very little
experience.
"Joydeep Buragohain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for your detailed reply. I plan to install standard 3/4" T&G
> flooring in 3" or 4" widths. So looks like I need to get a 10" miter
> saw and a smallish table saw.
>
Or, a nonish table saw. Or, you don't really need a miter saw. For the few
boards you're going to rip, you could easily get them ripped by someone with
a table saw and the miter would perform most of the work you'll need to do.
On the other hand, my father laid the maple floors in the house I grew up in
using only a table saw. You can easily get very precise cross cuts on the
table saw and then you don't need the miter. You can spend more money on a
betterish table saw that way.
It really comes down to what you want to end up with after the job. If
you're going to be doing woodworking then either tool is a good tool to have
in your shop, but depending on what kind of projects you envision yourself
getting into, one might be a better first tool to have in the long run.
Of course, when faced with a project, there just is no better reason to go
out and buy tools. Lots of tools. Hell, buy both saws, but don't buy a
smallish table saw. Buy a biggerish table saw.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Doug Miller wrote:
>>I have no experience with woodworking tools.
>
> Which means that you don't have the knowledge, the skills, the tools, or
> the experience to do a proper job of this yourself, and you should hire a
> professional to do it for you.
Boy am I glad I've ignored advice like that over the years. It's not bad
advice, mind you. It's never bad advice to tell someone without a clue to
hire a professional or go get a teacher. It just isn't much fun for the
person seeking to instill himself with cluefulness.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
"Joydeep Buragohain"
> Currently I plan
> to do the install myself and the finishing professionally
> done. This gives me the flexibility to spend a bit more on
> the flooring. If I get the whole thing done professionally,
> my choices of flooring will be quite limited (my budget is
> not as huge as the trade deficit ;-).
actually, in terms of skills, i would personally lean towards the opinion
that finishing is easier than laying - nothing complicated, just
mind-numbing, backbreaking labor to sand and exposure to nasty chemicals to
finish... but not technically demanding!
--
forrest_m
forrest underscore m at hotmail
"Joydeep Buragohain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for your advice. I do'nt like the beveled edges of
> prefinished strips. Prefer a smooth finish from wall to wall.
> I do understand that going the prefinished way is lot more
> economical and less messy than the unfinished way.
I agree, . . . . . .but . . . . . not all pre-finished has a big bevel.
Check out a few brands and you may find something that suits you.
OTOH, you can get some very nice wood flooring. You can do a lot with it if
you have the patience and skills as you can see here:
http://www.velvitoil.com/Floors.htm Dan did the designs and Barbara did the
milling and installation. When you see them in person, they are really
gorgeous.
Mike Marlow wrote:
...
> Installing it is rather straight forward even with no prior experience,
> assuming a reasonable aptitude for this kind of work. The OP is well
> advised to either used prefinished hardwood or to hire a contractor to
> finish the floor for him.
...
The cuts unless doing something fancier than simple strip flooring are
really the minor issue--they can be done w/ a hand miter box w/ a decent
backsaw for those that show and a skill saw for those that don't.
The rest of the rig--power nailer, straightener, etc., are the
key--he'll have to rent these and learn to use them effectively.
Joydeep Buragohain wrote:
>
> Thanks for the responses so far. I don't like the look of
> prefinished flooring (prefer a smooth finish). Took a class
> in a local hardwood flooring store. Mostly board&chalk
> type of class with some hands-on with floor nailers etc.
> The instructor advised using a table saw and a chop saw.
> I was wondering if I could get by without a chop saw if I
> don't make angle cuts.
As I noted in a recent other response, you can get by w/ a hand miter
saw for the end cuts altho it would be slow. I'd go for the chop saw
over the table saw as you have to move the whole piece over the blade
and that isn't the easiest thing to do and keep a square crosscut.
The only place you'll need a rip will be on the edges (again assuming
you're doing strip floring only) and that would be easier w/ a table
saw, but the cut edges will be hidden by the baseboard/shoe mould anyway
so a perfect edge isn't needed...
forrest wrote:
>
> "Joydeep Buragohain"
> > Currently I plan
> > to do the install myself and the finishing professionally
> > done. This gives me the flexibility to spend a bit more on
> > the flooring. If I get the whole thing done professionally,
> > my choices of flooring will be quite limited (my budget is
> > not as huge as the trade deficit ;-).
>
> actually, in terms of skills, i would personally lean towards the opinion
> that finishing is easier than laying - nothing complicated, just
> mind-numbing, backbreaking labor to sand and exposure to nasty chemicals to
> finish... but not technically demanding!
No, but there's a real skill/art to getting a good job. One definitely
does <NOT> want to start off w/ a power sander on an expensive floor w/o
having practiced somewhere not so critical first! :)
[email protected] wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
> flooring on the main level of our home. It seems a table saw
> and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
> strips. Would you recommend an entry level table saw? I have
> no experience with woodworking tools. And I don't plan to do
> a do a lot of woodworking in the future either (except maybe
> build a simple book case or cut shelving for the garage).
>
> Also, is it worthwhile spending upwards of $100 on a circular
> saw for cutting solid hardwood flooring? Please recommend and/or
> share your experience with different brands. I don't mind used
> tools either.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> - Joydeep -
An ambitious job.
Forget the circular saw. It will be worthless for the job. I suggest a
chop saw (aka miter saw). For ripping the edges I would suggest renting a
good table saw or radial arm saw (fitted out right the radial arm saw could
do it all, but you will spend a lot of time changing it over from one job to
the other.
Remember you are going to have a lot of end cuts and only a few rips to
do.
--
Joseph Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
A non-powered miter jis can get the job done if there is no plan of
woodworking afterward. Fringe benefit is excercise.
On 14 Jan 2005 08:42:05 -0800, "Joydeep Buragohain"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanks for your detailed reply. I plan to install standard 3/4" T&G
>flooring in 3" or 4" widths. So looks like I need to get a 10" miter
>saw and a smallish table saw.
On 12 Jan 2005 10:16:16 -0800, "bf" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm not an expert on hardwood flooring, but I know enough from watching
>friends that it's a very difficult job.
>
>On the other hand, laminate flooring is almost idiot proof.
>You could get by with only a circular saw or doing laminate.
I installed an oak floor with a circular saw. The primary
difficulty is rips but there are not very many of them. Actually,
there really isn't a whole heck of a lot of sawing to do overall.
"Ray" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> While we're on the hardwood floor topic...
> I live in a ranch house with a full basement so I have access to the
> subfloor. You know whats coming, right?
> I have squeaks everywhere! The subfloor is 6" TG pine and the floor is
> oak 2" by 3' and 4'.
> The house is about 50 years old and yes I still ocassionally find
> remants of a staple from the carpets that were pulled up before we
> bought.
> Any remedies for squeaks besides pull & reinstall?
>
Yup. A bit painstaking, but from down in the basement try to find the
squeaks as someone walks across the floor. A small amount of shimming in
the subfloor should quiet everything down.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
>
> Yup. A bit painstaking, but from down in the basement try to find the
> squeaks as someone walks across the floor. A small amount of shimming in
> the subfloor should quiet everything down.
> --
>
> -Mike-
I guess I better get a pallet of cedar siding and get started! Thanks,
maybe I'll try the hallway first to see how many shims it takes. I have A
LOT of squeaks.
"forrest" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> actually, in terms of skills, i would personally lean towards the
> opinion that finishing is easier than laying - nothing complicated,
> just mind-numbing, backbreaking labor to sand and exposure to nasty
> chemicals to finish... but not technically demanding!
>
>
I was going to read everything before responding but that advice is so
wrong! A good finish job is the most important part aand can cover up a
myriad of other goofs. It is the part that stands out and will be noticed
by everybody. Additionally it is a skill that requires sometimes years of
training and practice before its really learned. Joe blow homeowner cannot
even buy the good finsh.
Sanding and finish will cost about $2-3/ft. You will get what you pay for
as well.
That said, I have always felt(20 years in hardwood flooring) that if I
could have only one saw, it would be a jig saw. it will rip, albeit slowly,
it will make rough crosscuts (which is all he will probably need anyway,
most if not all cuts will be covered with base), and yes, it will make
clean crosscuts and angled cuts with a simple square. Cut around pipes? The
jig. Clean up the table saw circular undercut? The jig. No other power saw
is as versitile, nor safe. It needs to be a good jig saw tho, I use the
Bosch. It will do most everything those other two do, its small and costs
about $170. I wouldn't recommend any table saw to a rookie with no
training.
If you really must, for speed, buy a cheap Ryobi chop saw at the home
Despot. Good enough. It does make your end cuts much faster than the jig
saw. Forget the table saw and go for the jig saw.
If somehow you decide you need something more, save it all up for one day
and rent it.
"Ray" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Yup. A bit painstaking, but from down in the basement try to find the
> > squeaks as someone walks across the floor. A small amount of shimming
in
> > the subfloor should quiet everything down.
> > --
> >
> > -Mike-
>
> I guess I better get a pallet of cedar siding and get started! Thanks,
> maybe I'll try the hallway first to see how many shims it takes. I have A
> LOT of squeaks.
>
>
I suspect you'll find it does not take that many. Usually, once you kill
one you kill several. Your shims will be quite thin so don't be fooled if
it looks like the sub floor is tight. If it squeaks, it's not tight.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 13 Jan 2005 18:11:31 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>This next
>issue is where I disagree with most of the answers you seem to have
>gotten.If the dimensions of your room will require cutting any boards
>lengthwise (ripping) then you are only safe using a table saw.
In almost all cases, you have to rip flooring for
only one wall of the room you are flooring. So
unless you have truly large rooms, the likeli-
hood is that you will have to rip a maximum of
30 feet of wood. Buying a table saw for 30' of
cuts sounds excessive. If I *were* to buy a tool
just for this that would be safest, it would be a
band saw anyway. But beyond that, one has the
option of finding someone with an existing saw.
Another, which takes a bit of work, but can be
done reasonably safely, is to mark the boards,
clamp each one on end, saw down to the mark
witha sharp manual saw say evey 2 feet or so,
then clamp the wood flat down and rip with
whatever saw you have and keep reclamping
the wood as you move along. I used a heavy
conventional circular saw for this, running the
flooring strips between two tables with a second
strip a few inches away to provide more surface
for the base of the saw. If I were to do this now,
I would buy a cheap & light 18 volt and use that
instead.
[email protected] wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
>flooring on the main level of our home. It seems a table saw
>and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
>strips. Would you recommend an entry level table saw? I have
>no experience with woodworking tools. And I don't plan to do
>a do a lot of woodworking in the future either (except maybe
>build a simple book case or cut shelving for the garage).
>
>Also, is it worthwhile spending upwards of $100 on a circular
>saw for cutting solid hardwood flooring? Please recommend and/or
>share your experience with different brands. I don't mind used
>tools either.
>Thanks in advance.
>
>- Joydeep -
>
>
>
Yes, you should get yourself a brand new Delta Unisaw with the best
fence fitted and many extension tables. When you are done with the
job, send me the saw and I will see to it that it is disposed of properly.
"Joseph Meehan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
>> flooring on the main level of our home. It seems a table saw
>> and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
>> strips. Would you recommend an entry level table saw? I have
>> no experience with woodworking tools. And I don't plan to do
>> a do a lot of woodworking in the future either (except maybe
>> build a simple book case or cut shelving for the garage).
>>
>> Also, is it worthwhile spending upwards of $100 on a circular
>> saw for cutting solid hardwood flooring? Please recommend and/or
>> share your experience with different brands. I don't mind used
>> tools either.
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> - Joydeep -
>
> An ambitious job.
>
> Forget the circular saw. It will be worthless for the job. I suggest
> a chop saw (aka miter saw). For ripping the edges I would suggest renting
> a good table saw or radial arm saw (fitted out right the radial arm saw
> could do it all, but you will spend a lot of time changing it over from
> one job to the other.
>
> Remember you are going to have a lot of end cuts and only a few rips
> to do.
and most of those ripped edges are going to be hidden by the baseboard so
they dont need to be all that precise.
randy
"Ray" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I agree, the Pergo is garbage. Good thing it went down so easy and is
> not nailed, that will make it that much easier to replace this spring
> after only 3 years. I remember telling SWMBO "This is just cardboard
> with a sticker on top". Should I remind her of that?
>
Not if you ever want to... well you know... again.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I might suggest that you look into installing pergo or another brand of
> laminate flooring instead.
> It's a lot easier for do it yourself.
But, it's pure junk.
>
> I'm not an expert on hardwood flooring, but I know enough from watching
> friends that it's a very difficult job.
Installing it is rather straight forward even with no prior experience,
assuming a reasonable aptitude for this kind of work. The OP is well
advised to either used prefinished hardwood or to hire a contractor to
finish the floor for him.
>
> If you are still hell bent on doing hardwood, start off by doing the
> smallest room. You might pay more for materials, but you'll get a
> hands-on feel for what you're getting yourself into.
Agreed.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
>flooring on the main level of our home.
Ambitious project. :-)
>It seems a table saw
>and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
>strips.
Incorrect. A circular saw is incapable of making the precise crosscuts
necessary to produce the tightly fit end-to-end joints of a properly laid
hardwood floor. You need a miter saw, or a radial arm saw, for that.
>Would you recommend an entry level table saw?
No.
>I have no experience with woodworking tools.
Which means that you don't have the knowledge, the skills, the tools, or the
experience to do a proper job of this yourself, and you should hire a
professional to do it for you.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 12:58:20 -0700, "xrongor"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Joseph Meehan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
>>> flooring on the main level of our home. It seems a table saw
>>> and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
>>> strips. Would you recommend an entry level table saw? I have
>>> no experience with woodworking tools. And I don't plan to do
>>> a do a lot of woodworking in the future either (except maybe
>>> build a simple book case or cut shelving for the garage).
>>>
>>> Also, is it worthwhile spending upwards of $100 on a circular
>>> saw for cutting solid hardwood flooring? Please recommend and/or
>>> share your experience with different brands. I don't mind used
>>> tools either.
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>
They actually make some miter saws that can convert to a small table
saw for ripping. To me this would be an excellent candidate for your
needs. If I were doing it full time though, I'd have a portable
bandsaw for the rips and curves, and a really good portable chop saw
station with sliding stops and all.
JP
>>> - Joydeep -
>>
>> An ambitious job.
>>
>> Forget the circular saw. It will be worthless for the job. I suggest
>> a chop saw (aka miter saw). For ripping the edges I would suggest renting
>> a good table saw or radial arm saw (fitted out right the radial arm saw
>> could do it all, but you will spend a lot of time changing it over from
>> one job to the other.
>>
>> Remember you are going to have a lot of end cuts and only a few rips
>> to do.
>
>
>and most of those ripped edges are going to be hidden by the baseboard so
>they dont need to be all that precise.
>
>randy
>
On 12 Jan 2005 11:54:33 -0800, Joydeep Buragohain wrote:
> Thanks for the responses so far. I don't like the look of
> prefinished flooring (prefer a smooth finish). Took a class
> in a local hardwood flooring store. Mostly board&chalk
> type of class with some hands-on with floor nailers etc.
> The instructor advised using a table saw and a chop saw.
> I was wondering if I could get by without a chop saw if I
> don't make angle cuts.
>
> I came out of the class feeling that it is a physically
> demanding process, but does not require the skill of an
> experienced woodworker to do an okay job. Currently I plan
> to do the install myself and the finishing professionally
> done. This gives me the flexibility to spend a bit more on
> the flooring. If I get the whole thing done professionally,
> my choices of flooring will be quite limited (my budget is
> not as huge as the trade deficit ;-).
>
> I appreciate the advice about starting with a small area.
> That way I will very soon know whether I am upto it or not.
>
> Back to the tool issue, looks like a miter saw is the way to
> go. Any specific things that I should look for in such a saw?
> Thanks again.
>
> - Joydeep -
Just finished putting down 600 sf of 3/4" prefinished hardwood.
First I would recommend a compound mitre saw. If you're going to buy one
this is more versatile for any future jobs you may want to handle.
Second and most important to me is that if you're a novice and are living
in a home older than just a few years old you may want to let a
professional do it. I did my DR, KIT, Hallway and downstairs bath and had
to replace particle board in the hallway and DR. What a pain. what a
mess.
Last but not least is what do you mean when you say "prefer a smooth
finish"? I put down prefinished rustic maple and it's as smooth as you're
gonna get in my humble opinion.
Good luck
"Joydeep Buragohain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The instructor advised using a table saw and a chop saw.
> I was wondering if I could get by without a chop saw if I
> don't make angle cuts.
You can use a hand saw, circular saw, or even a cheap $100 miter saw for
what you are doing.
>
> I came out of the class feeling that it is a physically
> demanding process, but does not require the skill of an
> experienced woodworker to do an okay job.
Think: knee pads.
>
> Back to the tool issue, looks like a miter saw is the way to
> go. Any specific things that I should look for in such a saw?
> Thanks again.
Depends on your pocketbook and what you intend to do later. One shot deal?
Buy a modest priced saw like a Ryobi. Going to continue in the woodworking
hobby? Buy a 12" DeWalt for $300
[email protected] wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
>flooring on the main level of our home. It seems a table saw
>and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
>strips. Would you recommend an entry level table saw? I have
>no experience with woodworking tools. And I don't plan to do
>a do a lot of woodworking in the future either (except maybe
>build a simple book case or cut shelving for the garage).
>
>Also, is it worthwhile spending upwards of $100 on a circular
>saw for cutting solid hardwood flooring? Please recommend and/or
>share your experience with different brands. I don't mind used
>tools either.
>Thanks in advance.
>
>- Joydeep -
>
>
>
I just finished putting hardwood flooring in our dining room and I used
a table saw. There were no angle cuts only cross cuts at 90 deg. and a
couple rip cuts lengthwise where the boards were wider than the space I
had left.
Rick
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 08:23:36 -0500, RKG <[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>Plan to install approx 800 sq.ft of unfinished hardwood strip
>>flooring on the main level of our home. It seems a table saw
>>and a circular saw are the tools I need to rip and cut the
>>strips. Would you recommend an entry level table saw? I have
>>no experience with woodworking tools. And I don't plan to do
>>a do a lot of woodworking in the future either (except maybe
>>build a simple book case or cut shelving for the garage).
>>
>>Also, is it worthwhile spending upwards of $100 on a circular
>>saw for cutting solid hardwood flooring? Please recommend and/or
>>share your experience with different brands. I don't mind used
>>tools either.
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>- Joydeep -
>>
>>
>>
>I just finished putting hardwood flooring in our dining room and I used
>a table saw. There were no angle cuts only cross cuts at 90 deg. and a
>couple rip cuts lengthwise where the boards were wider than the space I
>had left.
Unless you are in need of the miter and/or compound features of the
chop saw, my vote goes for the table saw. You can do many more
different cuts with a table saw than with a chop saw.
If you buy a inexpensive saw be sure to buy a good carbide tipped
blade for it, it will make all the difference in the world. If it's
one of the smaller, table top types of saw, get some cheap roller
stands and/or make some provision to support longer pieces.
>Rick
DJ
=20
"bf" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
| I know some people hate laminate, but it's not junk if you buy the
| quality stuff.
| Very durable, withstands spills well. Installs easy.
| If you don't like the look, I can respect that, but it's a quality
| product that wears well and is very durable.
|=20
| I've seen a couple amatuers attempt to install hardwood flooring, and
| it did not come out well. They particularly had trouble doing the last
| few courses near the wall. When you can't get the nailer between the
| studs (since the drywall is up),
| it's difficult.
|=20
| I think you overestimating the typical amateur here. I've seen bungled
| up jobs.
| I don't know the original poster, but it seemed he had very little
| experience.
|=20
Be careful what you write. This amateur installed his own hardwood =
floors after kicking out the professionals who either ignored or did not =
know the rule about starting at the "feature" and ending up at the =
opposite wall.
In my case, the pros started at the opposite wall and got to within 6 =
inches of my archway before realizing that the wood strips would not fit =
in the strip. As well, the installed a 4 inch bullnose instead of a 6 =
inch with the result that the curved portion of the steps did not meet =
properly with the straight part. The only thing they did right was have =
the curved portion sublet to a stair manufacturing company.
By the time I was done fixing their stupidity, I had ripped out the =
bullnose and replaced it with proper 6 inch and cut and "Frenched in" a =
thin filler strip to finish their screw-up. If you didn't know it was =
there, you wouldn't see it
I now have over 2,000 square feet of excellent flooring and a serious =
compressor to show for my effort. Now I can even do my own spray =
painting (very limited ability here)
The pros did, however, pay to fix their error.
=20
--=20
PDQ
--
"Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Just finished putting down 600 sf of 3/4" prefinished hardwood.
>
> First I would recommend a compound mitre saw. If you're going to buy one
> this is more versatile for any future jobs you may want to handle.
Can't imagine what cut you'd make that would require a compound miter. A
simple miter saw ought to do the job quite nicely.
>
> Last but not least is what do you mean when you say "prefer a smooth
> finish"? I put down prefinished rustic maple and it's as smooth as you're
> gonna get in my humble opinion.
>
Agreed. Pre-finished hardwood flooring looks very good and is as smooth as
anything an installer will produce.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]