Hello,
I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
way.... Thanks.
Curt Blood
You are correct it doesn't make sense. Sorry about that I didn't explain
very well.
After making mortise wider, glue in a plug of wood to fill cavity. Now you
can make a new mortise that is a little smaller than original allowing for a
beefier sidewall. Sorry for the confusion.
"Tattooed and Dusty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Derrick wrote:
> > Is there a reason why you can't make the mortise slightly larger? I
> agree
> > easier to use shims though. If its through tenons think about using
> > contrasting wood in shims to add interest. Either way you definitely
> don't
> > want too the joint too loose. Hope all goes well.
> >
>
> Does this make sense to anyone else? If the male end (the tenon) is too
> small, enlarging the female end (the mortise) wont make a small male
> member tight in the female member?
>
> I mean I think this is self explanatory right?
>
"dustyone" <[email protected]
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
> thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
> Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
> before gluing.
I fear that shimming the tenon cheeks with veneer is not a very satisfactory
solution. The cross sectional area of the tenon is less than intended, so it
is weaker than intended.
For a remedy that will stand the test of time, a false tenon would be the
best solution. Perhaps you would like to try my web site. Click on 'Blunder
Busting'.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
Derrick wrote:
> Is there a reason why you can't make the mortise slightly larger? I
agree
> easier to use shims though. If its through tenons think about using
> contrasting wood in shims to add interest. Either way you definitely
don't
> want too the joint too loose. Hope all goes well.
>
Does this make sense to anyone else? If the male end (the tenon) is too
small, enlarging the female end (the mortise) wont make a small male
member tight in the female member?
I mean I think this is self explanatory right?
dustyone wrote:
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
> thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
> Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
> before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
> 1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
> of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
> always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
> way.... Thanks.
If they're through M&Ts, what about a wedge, same or contrasting
color, and turn it into a feature. It a Micro$oft thing.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/
"dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thank you all for your ideas. I'm going to glue shims and re-cut the
> tenons.
>
Shims are one way of doing it.
Try using yellow glue, painting and dipping the tenon and scattering some
sawdust in the mortise to make it tight.
If you want an elegant solution, kerf and wedge.
On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 19:19:39 -0700, "NorthIdahoWWer"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>You could cut some thin wood shims to fill the space. Set your table saw
>fence so that when you run the wood through, the piece being cut off on the
>outside of the blade is your shim. Trim it to fit, glue it to your tenon,
>then assemble the tenon and mortise. Hope that helps.
Glood idea, but it doesn't have to be an exact size shim. Glue a
solid [thicker] piece that can be controlled to fit, then recut the
tenon to proper size.
Is there a reason why you can't make the mortise slightly larger? I agree
easier to use shims though. If its through tenons think about using
contrasting wood in shims to add interest. Either way you definitely don't
want too the joint too loose. Hope all goes well.
"dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
> thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
> Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
> before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
> 1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
> of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
> always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
> way.... Thanks.
>
> Curt Blood
>
Make wooden shims to fill the gap between the tenon and mortise. Glue them
to each face of the tenon. Gorilla glue will foam and expand, but does not
have a lot of strength once it expands to fill gaps.
"dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
> thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
> Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
> before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
> 1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
> of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
> always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
> way.... Thanks.
>
> Curt Blood
>
George Max wrote:
> I see you've gotten the wood shim idea, or you could use some veneer,
> same thing. Consider carefully what faces of the tenons you adhere it
> to since it will change the geometry of your piece slightly.
>
> OR
>
> You could glue things up with epoxy, epoxy is a good gap filling
> adhesive. It's also totally irreversable once cured.
>
> The foam of gorilla glue has no structural strength, don't go there.
I like epoxy so would probably go that route.
If you use epoxy, thicken with some microballoons to make a better gap
filling material.
As George says, stay from Gorilla glue in this application.
Lew
How did you cut the mortises? Why not make matching mortises in the
stretchers after cutting off the undersize tenons, then use loose tenons cut
to the correct size?
Steve
"dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
> thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
> Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
> before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
> 1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
> of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
> always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
> way.... Thanks.
>
> Curt Blood
>
"dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
> thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
> Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
> before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
> 1/32 in.)
Two things you can do.
Add a thin piece of wood do the tenon and re-cut them
Add a very thin piece, like plane shavings, to shim them.
If they are all the same undersize I'd probably opt for fix #1. If it is
only one tenon, #2 can be done. You won't regret doing a proper fix rather
than just trying to fill the void with poly glue. If you don't have one
already, get a Veritas shoulder plane so you can easily fit tenons that are
a smidgen oversized. Check for fit after every pass of the plane. It is
very satisfying to take a pass or two and have it slide in perfectly.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
In article <[email protected]>,
dustyone <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
>thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
>Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
>before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
>1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
>of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
>always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
>way.... Thanks.
>
>Curt Blood
>
Make a shim from a plane shaving, or if the gap is large enough, wrap
the entire tenon with a shaving. Use glue on both sides of the shim.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
> thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
> Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
> before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
> 1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
> of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
> always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
> way.... Thanks.
Simply glue additional wood to the tenon with the grain oriented to match
the tenon. Allow the glue to dry and then saw and/or plane the tenon to the
correct dimension. You may need to glue the additional wood to both cheeks
so that the stretchers end up with the correct reveal relative to the legs.
John
I would glue some veneer to both sides of the tenon then adjust with plane
if needed.
"dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
> thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
> Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
> before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
> 1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
> of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
> always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
> way.... Thanks.
>
> Curt Blood
>
On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 23:02:19 -0400, Guess who
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Glood idea, but it doesn't have to be an exact size shim. Glue a
>solid [thicker] piece that can be controlled to fit, then recut the
>tenon to proper size.
Hand planes are wonderful for this. <G>
Barry
"dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem.
Take some nice big shavings from some scrap of the same kind of wood with a
plane, and glue one to the face of the undersize tennon. When the glue is
dry, you can clean up the over hanging bits with a sharp knife.
I've used the technique more than once :-)
On 23 Apr 2005 19:06:04 -0700, "dustyone" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I need to know if anyone has successfully corrected this problem. I'm
>thinking of using some gorilla glue, which I'm told expands some.
>Other than that I could put a layer of masking tape around the tenon
>before gluing. This is the amount of play in the unglued joint (maybe
>1/32 in.) The project is an end table, so it's not going to take alot
>of heavy stress. Should I just glue and clamp as normal? I could
>always re-make the stretchers, but if I can solve the problem another
>way.... Thanks.
>
>Curt Blood
I see you've gotten the wood shim idea, or you could use some veneer,
same thing. Consider carefully what faces of the tenons you adhere it
to since it will change the geometry of your piece slightly.
OR
You could glue things up with epoxy, epoxy is a good gap filling
adhesive. It's also totally irreversable once cured.
The foam of gorilla glue has no structural strength, don't go there.
On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 02:20:58 GMT, Dave in Fairfax <[email protected]>
wrote:
>If they're through M&Ts, what about a wedge,
Depends on the length. A wedged tenon will have some degree of
non-parallelism to the outside face. If you're having to expand this by
a whole 1/32" in a short tenon, then you're not going to get much grip
around the shoulder end of the tenon. It would work for the rails in a
small fully-framed table where there's bracing from other joints too,
but I wouldn't trust it in a chair.
Shim it. Square the tenon up, glue the shims on, let it dry well and
then re-cut them.
This sort of problem is why I always cut my tenons (which are easy)
after my mortices (which are hard).