I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine is
too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because it
is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
please suggest a wood for me to use?
Thanks.
Best regards,
Sandy
I want to stain the baseboard because I don't like painting baseboards.
I will use some type of toestrip at the bottom of the baseboard.
Regards,
Sandy
[email protected] wrote:
> Are you going to make the moulding yourself?
> Why do you want to use stain on your baseboard?
> Will you be using a =BC round at the bottom of the baseboard to make for =
the
> unevenness of the floor?
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
> > going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine is
> > too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because it
> > is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
> > please suggest a wood for me to use?
> > Thanks.
> > Best regards,
> > Sandy
> >
I understand your question now. You can tell I have not worked with
wood very much. I thought I had to put some stain on the wood. We
have red oak floors on the rooms that I am replacing the baseboard and
the cabinets in our kitchen are maple with a carmel finish. I think I
will try the cherry and luan woods. I hear that it doesn't matter if I
mix the different wood types. Do I just need to put on a clear
polyurethane coat on the wood and I am done?
Thanks for all your advice.
Best regards,
Sandy
[email protected] wrote:
> Luan (Philippine Mahogany) is well appreciated. Its not a very hard wood
> and takes the stain fairly good. You should make some test piece and find
> out how it takes various type of stain.
> Half of my house has luan moulding. I choose not to stain it because if a
> dent or scratch is made it does not show as much.
> I used marine varnish on the moulting and I like the look very well.
> In other instance I have used natural Danish oil as a stain and applied a
> waterborne varnish after. I have also used Tung oil instead of a stain
> before applying marine of waterborne varnish. With Danish and Tung oil
> there is no blotching and it gives a warm feeling.
> Birch is difficult to stain an anti blotching agent should be used first =
and
> at times it does not work. As for pine moulding It should be primed and
> painted
> This is my 2=A2 worth. Every one has their own taste. I would suggest t=
hat
> you experiment on small piece of scrap moulding before finalizing your
> choice.
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> I want to stain the baseboard because I don't like painting baseboards.
> I will use some type of toestrip at the bottom of the baseboard.
>
> Regards,
> Sandy
> [email protected] wrote:
> > Are you going to make the moulding yourself?
> > Why do you want to use stain on your baseboard?
> > Will you be using a =BC round at the bottom of the baseboard to make fo=
r the
> > unevenness of the floor?
> >
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
> > > going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine =
is
> > > too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because =
it
> > > is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
> > > please suggest a wood for me to use?
> > > Thanks.
> > > Best regards,
> > > Sandy
> > >
Hi Sandy,
I just finished a set of stairs, handrails and spindles. Needed to
match a stained bamboo floor. The wood was poplar. It came out very
nicely. I used wood conditioner and oil stain. I found I could bring
more of the grain out if I rubbed the stain in at a 45 degree angle to
the grain.
Put 2 coats of Polyurathane on top of that. Would have put on another
coat but between outside temperature slowing me down and the need to
get moved into this house I had to forego that coat. Even though Poplar
is on the softer end of the hardwoods I believe the Polyurathane really
toughens it up.
Good luck and do some tests on various types of wood that are in your
price range.
Roy
[email protected] wrote:
> I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
> going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine is
> too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because it
> is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
> please suggest a wood for me to use?
> Thanks.
> Best regards,
> Sandy
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
> going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine is
> too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because it
> is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
> please suggest a wood for me to use?
> Thanks.
> Best regards,
> Sandy
>
I rehab old houses in my spare time, often using stained baseboards. I have
always used pine or poplar for cost reasons, either can be stained fairly
easily. Makes sure you use a wood conditioner and several applications of
stain. I've never used toe strip unless there was a good reason.
My current project I replaced the baseboards with pine, and refinished all
of the existing maple woodwork (door and window frames) and unless you have
a trained eye for that sort of thing, you can't tell the difference between
the new and old.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Why do you want to use stain on your baseboard?
>
The OP probably doesn't like the look of unfinished wood?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Your Question: Do I just need to put on a clear
> polyurethane coat on the wood and I am done?
>
>
>
> My suggestion: is maybe? After you validate what you want on test strips
> and are happy with the result, you may be able to do the job with a
> minimum of about two coats.
>
>
>
> Both Luan and Cherry are very nice looking wood.
>
In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
underlayment....
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 01:21:18 -0500, "Locutus"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
>>underlayment....
>>
>
> And really cheap door skins.
>
> Luan is not quality stuff! <G>
>
> Locutus, did you know that there is now a purpose made underlayment
> plywood that comes in 4x4 sheets? It handles like luan, is much more
> water and rot resistant, is easy to handle, and comes with a grid
> printed on the face for easy cutting and screw location. I know you
> flip houses, and it may be useful for you.
Barry, I haven't seen that, I will look for it next time I need
underlayment. Thanks for the heads up!
In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
> underpayment....
Please view the following link: Luan comes in all sizes of solid wood.
http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/mahogany,%20philippine.htm
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Your Question: Do I just need to put on a clear
>> polyurethane coat on the wood and I am done?
>>
>>
>>
>> My suggestion: is maybe? After you validate what you want on test strips
>> and are happy with the result, you may be able to do the job with a
>> minimum of about two coats.
>>
>>
>>
>> Both Luan and Cherry are very nice looking wood.
>>
>
> In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
> underlayment....
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Why do you want to use stain on your baseboard?
Probably to avoid it looking unstained.
On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 01:21:18 -0500, "Locutus"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
>underlayment....
>
And really cheap door skins.
Luan is not quality stuff! <G>
Locutus, did you know that there is now a purpose made underlayment
plywood that comes in 4x4 sheets? It handles like luan, is much more
water and rot resistant, is easy to handle, and comes with a grid
printed on the face for easy cutting and screw location. I know you
flip houses, and it may be useful for you.
Are you going to make the moulding yourself?
Why do you want to use stain on your baseboard?
Will you be using a ¼ round at the bottom of the baseboard to make for the
unevenness of the floor?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
> going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine is
> too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because it
> is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
> please suggest a wood for me to use?
> Thanks.
> Best regards,
> Sandy
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> For years Teak was used for bulkheads, cabinets, floors and many other
> things inside and outside of sailboats.
> Now the trend is toward cherry wood. Some people are saying it is because
> it does not darken the inside of the boat as much as teak? Others still
> prefer Mahogany.
> FWIW
Price teak and you'll know why the change.
On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 12:32:01 GMT, <[email protected]> wrote:
>Please view the following link: Luan comes in all sizes of solid wood.
>
>http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/mahogany,%20philippine.htm
I know.
It's still ugly and usually painted where I live. <G>
Downes and Reader, a local mahogany specialist and importer doesn't
even bother to list it with the real mahoganies.
Your Question: Do I just need to put on a clear
polyurethane coat on the wood and I am done?
My suggestion: is maybe? After you validate what you want on test strips
and are happy with the result, you may be able to do the job with a minimum
of about two coats.
Both Luan and Cherry are very nice looking wood.
It becomes a matter of preferences. What I usually do is to make some test
pieces with different wood and finish.
Polyurethane coating is different from one brand to another. They do
darken the wood, and their intensity varies from one type of wood to the
other. The location of where the wood has grown plays a role in it density
and porosity. With Luan after doing some test strips, we may find that you
need sanding filler first.
What I do is that I pre-cut and pre-fit the entire moulding first. When I
am finish I label each pieces and remove them I then lay all the pieces on a
workbench or wooden workhorses sand and apply the chosen coating. Then when
I am satisfied with the result, I begin the final installation. I prefer to
drill pilot holes for the nails. Before nailing the board against the wall,
I place a thick sheet of paper between the bottom of the moulding and the
wooden floor. I then fill the holes with the appropriate matching color
putty. Later the gap left by the thick sheet of paper will allow me to
insert paper between the floor and the bottom of the moulding. This way I
do not have to worry about dripping coating.
Before starting the nailing, it would be a good thing to locate all the 2X4
or 2X6. This way you will avoid nailing through plaster or panel wall with
no holding power.
Sorry with too much details.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I understand your question now. You can tell I have not worked with
wood very much. I thought I had to put some stain on the wood. We
have red oak floors on the rooms that I am replacing the baseboard and
the cabinets in our kitchen are maple with a carmel finish. I think I
will try the cherry and luan woods. I hear that it doesn't matter if I
mix the different wood types. Do I just need to put on a clear
polyurethane coat on the wood and I am done?
Thanks for all your advice.
Best regards,
Sandy
[email protected] wrote:
> Luan (Philippine Mahogany) is well appreciated. Its not a very hard wood
> and takes the stain fairly good. You should make some test piece and find
> out how it takes various type of stain.
> Half of my house has luan moulding. I choose not to stain it because if a
> dent or scratch is made it does not show as much.
> I used marine varnish on the moulting and I like the look very well.
> In other instance I have used natural Danish oil as a stain and applied a
> waterborne varnish after. I have also used Tung oil instead of a stain
> before applying marine of waterborne varnish. With Danish and Tung oil
> there is no blotching and it gives a warm feeling.
> Birch is difficult to stain an anti blotching agent should be used first
> and
> at times it does not work. As for pine moulding It should be primed and
> painted
> This is my 2¢ worth. Every one has their own taste. I would suggest that
> you experiment on small piece of scrap moulding before finalizing your
> choice.
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> I want to stain the baseboard because I don't like painting baseboards.
> I will use some type of toestrip at the bottom of the baseboard.
>
> Regards,
> Sandy
> [email protected] wrote:
> > Are you going to make the moulding yourself?
> > Why do you want to use stain on your baseboard?
> > Will you be using a ¼ round at the bottom of the baseboard to make for
> > the
> > unevenness of the floor?
> >
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
> > > going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine
> > > is
> > > too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because
> > > it
> > > is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
> > > please suggest a wood for me to use?
> > > Thanks.
> > > Best regards,
> > > Sandy
> > >
Luan (Philippine Mahogany) is well appreciated. Its not a very hard wood
and takes the stain fairly good. You should make some test piece and find
out how it takes various type of stain.
Half of my house has luan moulding. I choose not to stain it because if a
dent or scratch is made it does not show as much.
I used marine varnish on the moulting and I like the look very well.
In other instance I have used natural Danish oil as a stain and applied a
waterborne varnish after. I have also used Tung oil instead of a stain
before applying marine of waterborne varnish. With Danish and Tung oil
there is no blotching and it gives a warm feeling.
Birch is difficult to stain an anti blotching agent should be used first and
at times it does not work. As for pine moulding It should be primed and
painted
This is my 2¢ worth. Every one has their own taste. I would suggest that
you experiment on small piece of scrap moulding before finalizing your
choice.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I want to stain the baseboard because I don't like painting baseboards.
I will use some type of toestrip at the bottom of the baseboard.
Regards,
Sandy
[email protected] wrote:
> Are you going to make the moulding yourself?
> Why do you want to use stain on your baseboard?
> Will you be using a ¼ round at the bottom of the baseboard to make for the
> unevenness of the floor?
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
> > going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine is
> > too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because it
> > is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
> > please suggest a wood for me to use?
> > Thanks.
> > Best regards,
> > Sandy
> >
[email protected] wrote:
> In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
> > underpayment....
> Please view the following link: Luan comes in all sizes of solid wood.
> http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/mahogany,%20philippine.htm
I've used Philippine Mahogany on a number of projects recently, and
it's nice stuff to work with. It's stable, relatively inexpensive,
easy to work and takes stain nicely.
An additional factoid some might interesting. Philippine Mahogany
was used in building the Higgins Landing Craft[1] used for getting
troups to the beaches during D-Day.
[1]: http://www.war-experience.org/803flotilla/landing_craft.htm
--
If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
remove ".invalid".
In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
> underpayment....
Please view the following link: Luan comes in all sizes of solid wood.
http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/mahogany,%20philippine.htm
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Your Question: Do I just need to put on a clear
>> polyurethane coat on the wood and I am done?
>>
>>
>>
>> My suggestion: is maybe? After you validate what you want on test strips
>> and are happy with the result, you may be able to do the job with a
>> minimum of about two coats.
>>
>>
>>
>> Both Luan and Cherry are very nice looking wood.
>>
>
> In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
> underlayment....
>
PFJI, In this neck of the wood luan plywood was widely used for underpayment
years ago. Then everyone started to say that it was not all that good. All
the flooring contractors started to use a thicker plywood claiming that they
had too many claims for the luan.
As a result the price of the luan plywood (sometime called meranti) went
down. I still use luan plywood for dinghies building. I first saturated
both side of the plywood sheet with two part epoxy. Then I cut the pieces I
need and again apply two part epoxy before assembly. FWIW
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 26 Dec 2006 11:41:28 -0500, "Locutus"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Barry, I haven't seen that, I will look for it next time I need
>>underlayment. Thanks for the heads up!
>
>
> Glad to help!
Luan is not quality stuff! <G>
Could you explicitly define the meaning of QUALITY so it can be measured
with a yardstick.
For years Teak was used for bulkheads, cabinets, floors and many other
things inside and outside of sailboats.
Now the trend is toward cherry wood. Some people are saying it is because
it does not darken the inside of the boat as much as teak? Others still
prefer Mahogany.
FWIW
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 01:21:18 -0500, "Locutus"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>In my neck of the woods, Luan is thin flexible plywood used primarily for
>>underlayment....
>>
>
> And really cheap door skins.
>
> Luan is not quality stuff! <G>
>
> Locutus, did you know that there is now a purpose made underlayment
> plywood that comes in 4x4 sheets? It handles like luan, is much more
> water and rot resistant, is easy to handle, and comes with a grid
> printed on the face for easy cutting and screw location. I know you
> flip houses, and it may be useful for you.
On Tue, 26 Dec 2006 11:41:28 -0500, "Locutus"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Barry, I haven't seen that, I will look for it next time I need
>underlayment. Thanks for the heads up!
Glad to help!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need some advice on which wood type to use for our baseboards. I am
> going to stain the baseboard. I don't want to use pine because pine is
> too soft and does not stain evenly. I don't want to use oak because it
> is too grainy. I want a wood that will stain evenly. Can someone
> please suggest a wood for me to use?
Why stain? Get the wood you like and there is no reason to stain it to look
like something it is not. I'd use cherry if cost was not a factor. Comes
down to personal taste. Not knowing what your real goal is, it is
difficult to say. Pine can be stained very will with the right methods.