Staining, varnishing, and wood grade

I don't think that would be a good idea at all. It is a very low quality
product and every defect and blemish will show thru.

Purchase a small test piece and try it. You will see what I mean.


"Ikon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Normal procedure for staining wood is like this, according to all
> manuals:
> 1. Buy stain grade wood
> 2. Apply wood conditioner
> 3. Apply stain
> 4. Apply varnish
>
>
> If I want to preserve the natural color of the wood (rather than make
> it darker), then they tell you to apply Natural Stain (#209 at Home
> Depot) at step 3.
>
>
> But could I, instead, buy paint grade wood (which is much cheaper than
> stain grade), and just apply varnish alone, without stain ?
>

On 28 Feb 2005 18:05:26 -0800, the inscrutable "Ikon"
<[email protected]> spake:

>Normal procedure for staining wood is like this, according to all
>manuals:
>1. Buy stain grade wood
>2. Apply wood conditioner
>3. Apply stain
>4. Apply varnish
>
>
>If I want to preserve the natural color of the wood (rather than make
>it darker), then they tell you to apply Natural Stain (#209 at Home
>Depot) at step 3.
>
>
>But could I, instead, buy paint grade wood (which is much cheaper than
>stain grade), and just apply varnish alone, without stain ?

PLEASE do, and try Waterlox while you're at it. It's a combo of tung
oil and varnish that you wipe on, and it doesn't darken the wood much.

Regarding the wood, buy whatever looks good to you. Get it from a
hardwood lumber store, not Blowes or Borg.

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