Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure treated
2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought and
chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet plinths).
Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for the
rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans or
skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would decide
what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there some
reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Somewhere I have read that it's less than 1/2 an inch.
>
> BTW, on the subject of dimensional lumber variations, the one
> that annoys the hell out of me is the recent appearance of
> short 2x4s. I presume the idea is to save having to cut the
> ends off when framing an 8' wall, but Home Despot/Lowes
> rarely clearly mark the bin with the short ones, and it's
> too easy to pick them up by mistake.
>
> John
>
Most the places I've noticed sell those as "stud length" 2x4s, and charge
a little more for them. It might be worth speaking to a manager about
keeping those pieces separate.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
They are full of water. They will likely be 1.5 x 3.5 after they dry
out, they will be a lot lighter weight too.
This is one of the reasons that I try to buy lumber that is kiln dried
after being PT when stability in desirable and that is typically more
expensive.
Anybody besides Stahlman's sell kiln dried PT, Leon?
Dave in SoTex
On 2/8/2015 1:13 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/8/15 12:03 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>> On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 10:52:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>> 2x4 finished dimensions have changed over the years. IIRC the
>>> current 1.5x3.5 size has been the standard since the late 60s.
>>
>> Not sure about the dating, but I seem to remember 1.75 x 3.75 way
>> back when. Of course that may have been recycled or old stock or a
>> faulty memory. Anyone else remember that size?
>>
>
> I read something a while back about the history of dimensional lumber.
> It kept decreasing in size every so often, so your recollection is
> probably accurate.
> You have to keep in mind, too, that these giant lumber yard/home stores
> in every town and every major interstate interchange is a very modern
> phenomenon.
>
> Even in the 70s it was much easier people in some parts of the country
> to get their lumber straight from a sawyer. There are many homes built
> in the early 70s with 2x4s that are very close to nominal size.
>
>
I had a friend that had a home built in the 20's in Houston. The studs
were not only larger that today's studs they were oak. I would hot have
believed it has I not seen it. He was doing some restoring and had a
wall opened up.
On 2/8/2015 11:28 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> And another: How "deep" does the pressure treating go?
>
> Somewhere I have read that it's less than 1/2 an inch.
>
> BTW, on the subject of dimensional lumber variations, the one
> that annoys the hell out of me is the recent appearance of
> short 2x4s. I presume the idea is to save having to cut the
> ends off when framing an 8' wall, but Home Despot/Lowes
> rarely clearly mark the bin with the short ones, and it's
> too easy to pick them up by mistake.
>
> John
>
Don't confuse common length 2x4's, 6'8'10'12' etc with "Studs". Studs
are shy of 8' to compensate for the sole/bottom plate, top plates, and
less the ceiling sheet rock so that wall sheetrock will cover the wall.
This is not a new thing, they have been around for decades.
I will say however that probably more often than not some shopper has
loaded up a cart of studs, found the 8' 2x's and mixed the studs in with
the rest.
Typically all you have to do is steer clear of the bright colored studs
or those marked on their sides or label with "stud", if you want 8'
On 2/8/2015 4:23 PM, Dave in South Texas wrote:
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
> They are full of water. They will likely be 1.5 x 3.5 after they dry
> out, they will be a lot lighter weight too.
>
> This is one of the reasons that I try to buy lumber that is kiln dried
> after being PT when stability in desirable and that is typically more
> expensive.
>
> Anybody besides Stahlman's sell kiln dried PT, Leon?
>
> Dave in SoTex
>
>
Yellowwood maybe ? always dry.
On 2/8/2015 9:05 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
> 5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
> 1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure
> treated 2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought
> and chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet plinths).
>
> Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for
> the rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans
> or skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would
> decide what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
>
> I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there
> some reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
>
I would think since they are wet, they are 1/8 larger, and will shrink
once they dry.
Are these for inside? or outside?
--
Jeff
On 2/8/2015 8:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 2/8/2015 9:33 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 2/8/2015 9:05 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>>> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
>>> 5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
>>> 1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure
>>> treated 2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought
>>> and chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet
>>> plinths).
>>>
>>> Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for
>>> the rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans
>>> or skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would
>>> decide what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
>>>
>>> I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there
>>> some reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
>>>
>> For the further education of a novice, could you explain what sort of
>> cabinets you are making that require 2x4s and why you have chosen
>> pressure treated? One more thing: When you "skinny them down", won't you
>> be atomizing a great deal of allegedly poisonous stuff into the air?
>>
>> Standard disclaimers about my overall ignorance apply. :)
>
> And another: How "deep" does the pressure treating go? If you need the
> critter-resistance of PT lumber, won't you be reducing it, on two sides
> of each board?
>
There are different grades or PT lumber. Some are rated for ground
contact and some are treated all the way through. I suspect that the non
ground contact PT boards are not Pt all the way through.
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
On 2/8/2015 8:05 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
> 5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
> 1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure
> treated 2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought
> and chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet plinths).
>
> Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for
> the rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans
> or skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would
> decide what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
>
> I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there
> some reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
>
They are full of water. They will likely be 1.5 x 3.5 after they dry
out, they will be a lot lighter weight too.
This is one of the reasons that I try to buy lumber that is kiln dried
after being PT when stability in desirable and that is typically more
expensive.
> See my first response. The floor isn't "moist" but it IS concrete.
> Which means that some dampness will penetrate it from the ground upon
> which it sits.
I assume you are going to paint this, as pressure treated probably won't
stain or finish well?
Have you considered using PVC or composite lumber? It costs more, but it
doesn't sound like you'll need much of it. You can cut and shape it just
like wood, but it won't rot.
I have machined composite deck boards from the home center to use as
outdoor trim and other projects. It can take a few extra coats of paint to
cover up, but otherwise it holds up very well.
Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
> 5/8" x 3 5/8".
2x4 is the rough-sawn size. Our previous house was a 1928 farmhouse framed with rough-sawn
lumber: the wall studs were actually 2 inches by 4 inches, floor joists a full 2x8, etc.
The main advantage of dressing rough-sawn framing lumber is to provide consistent
dimensions: the actual size of the rough-sawn material varied +/- about 1/8".
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> And another: How "deep" does the pressure treating go?
Somewhere I have read that it's less than 1/2 an inch.
BTW, on the subject of dimensional lumber variations, the one
that annoys the hell out of me is the recent appearance of
short 2x4s. I presume the idea is to save having to cut the
ends off when framing an 8' wall, but Home Despot/Lowes
rarely clearly mark the bin with the short ones, and it's
too easy to pick them up by mistake.
John
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 2/8/15 8:39 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
>>> 5/8" x 3 5/8".
>>
>> 2x4 is the rough-sawn size. Our previous house was a 1928 farmhouse framed with
rough-sawn
>> lumber: the wall studs were actually 2 inches by 4 inches, floor joists a full 2x8, etc.
>>
>> The main advantage of dressing rough-sawn framing lumber is to provide consistent
>> dimensions: the actual size of the rough-sawn material varied +/- about 1/8".
>>
>
> 2x4 finished dimensions have changed over the years.
Possibly I didn't state my point as clearly as I intended -- which was that, regardless of the
actual finished dimension, when you're building a house from two-by lumber that has been
finished, it's all been finished to the *same* dimension: all the 2x4s are the same size, all the
2x8s are the same size *and* they're the same thickness as the 2x4s, etc.
In a house built with rough lumber, most of the 2x4s are actually pretty close to 2" x 4", but
some of them may be 1 7/8 x 4, some may be 2 1/8 x 3 15/16, etc.
"John McCoy" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>BTW, on the subject of dimensional lumber variations, the one
>that annoys the hell out of me is the recent appearance of
>short 2x4s. I presume the idea is to save having to cut the
>ends off when framing an 8' wall, but Home Despot/Lowes
>rarely clearly mark the bin with the short ones, and it's
>too easy to pick them up by mistake.
"Studs" have been available locally here for at least 40 years... I've
noticed the word "stud" printed on them with the grade stamp too... don't
recall seeing that on 2x4x8s.
I often bring a tape measure with me when buying lumber and sheet goods as
customers often rearrange materials while picking. As such, even if the
staff had it right to begin with there is no guarantee it's right when I get
there... plumbing and electrical departments are the worst for that!
John
On Sun, 8 Feb 2015 13:09:05 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"John McCoy" wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>>BTW, on the subject of dimensional lumber variations, the one
>>that annoys the hell out of me is the recent appearance of
>>short 2x4s. I presume the idea is to save having to cut the
>>ends off when framing an 8' wall, but Home Despot/Lowes
>>rarely clearly mark the bin with the short ones, and it's
>>too easy to pick them up by mistake.
>
>"Studs" have been available locally here for at least 40 years... I've
>noticed the word "stud" printed on them with the grade stamp too... don't
>recall seeing that on 2x4x8s.
I've certainly seen "stud grade" 2x4(x8)s.
>
>I often bring a tape measure with me when buying lumber and sheet goods as
>customers often rearrange materials while picking. As such, even if the
>staff had it right to begin with there is no guarantee it's right when I get
>there... plumbing and electrical departments are the worst for that!
Trust but verify? ;-)
wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On Sun, 8 Feb 2015 13:09:05 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>"Studs" have been available locally here for at least 40 years... I've
>>noticed the word "stud" printed on them with the grade stamp too... don't
>>recall seeing that on 2x4x8s.
>I've certainly seen "stud grade" 2x4(x8)s.
Yes, "stud grade" but for the ones that just say "stud" they were not 8s...
That said, I have no doubt that the way dimension lumber is stamped varies
across the country and across vendors.
I recall when I first saw the SPF stamp... viewed it as complete junk after
having used Douglas Fir framing lumber. Now SPF is the norm!
On 2/8/2015 9:05 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
> 5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
> 1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure
> treated 2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought
> and chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet plinths).
>
> Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for
> the rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans
> or skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would
> decide what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
>
> I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there
> some reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
>
For the further education of a novice, could you explain what sort of
cabinets you are making that require 2x4s and why you have chosen
pressure treated? One more thing: When you "skinny them down", won't you
be atomizing a great deal of allegedly poisonous stuff into the air?
Standard disclaimers about my overall ignorance apply. :)
---
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Yes, moisture.
You will find dry ones measure more in the range of 1.5 x 3.5
but that is not a guarantee either.
I have found 2x4 here that are actually 2 1/4 by 4 plus....of course those
are old millings.
It is very difficult when repairing a redwood deck, and doing in line
repairs if the 2x6 are 1.5 x 5.5
and the purchased repair is 1 5/8 x 5 5/8
Of course one can rip, although as they dry they shrink.....
I have received deliveries with 2 different millings in the single
delivery....
And had to sort out the different size as to not affect the deck spacing....
john
"dadiOH" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure treated
2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought and
chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet plinths).
Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for the
rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans or
skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would decide
what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there some
reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 2/8/2015 9:33 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 2/8/2015 9:05 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
>> 5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
>> 1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure
>> treated 2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought
>> and chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet plinths).
>>
>> Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for
>> the rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans
>> or skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would
>> decide what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
>>
>> I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there
>> some reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
>>
> For the further education of a novice, could you explain what sort of
> cabinets you are making that require 2x4s and why you have chosen
> pressure treated? One more thing: When you "skinny them down", won't you
> be atomizing a great deal of allegedly poisonous stuff into the air?
>
> Standard disclaimers about my overall ignorance apply. :)
And another: How "deep" does the pressure treating go? If you need the
critter-resistance of PT lumber, won't you be reducing it, on two sides
of each board?
---
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On 2/8/2015 9:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 2/8/2015 9:33 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 2/8/2015 9:05 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>>> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
>>> 5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
>>> 1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure
>>> treated 2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought
>>> and chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet
>>> plinths).
>>>
>>> Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for
>>> the rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans
>>> or skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would
>>> decide what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
>>>
>>> I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there
>>> some reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
>>>
>> For the further education of a novice, could you explain what sort of
>> cabinets you are making that require 2x4s and why you have chosen
>> pressure treated? One more thing: When you "skinny them down", won't you
>> be atomizing a great deal of allegedly poisonous stuff into the air?
>>
>> Standard disclaimers about my overall ignorance apply. :)
>
> And another: How "deep" does the pressure treating go? If you need the
> critter-resistance of PT lumber, won't you be reducing it, on two sides
> of each board?
Ugh. I see now that I missed the word "plinths". I assume these will
rest on a moist floor. But I'm still interested in the rest, if you
wouldn't mind.
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"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> For the further education of a novice, could you explain what sort of
> cabinets you are making that require 2x4s and why you have chosen
> pressure treated?
These are bathroom vanities. They - like most cabinets - have toe kicks;
i.e., an indentation at the bottom to accomodate one's toes when one
stands at the cabinet.
There are two ways I know of to make a toe kick...
1. Notch out the front of the cabinet sides
2. Make the cabinet sides shorter and set them - attached to the bottoms -
on a "plinth". A plinth is just a raised, open box, sized to provide the
toe kick when the cabinet boxes are on them. The advantage of using
plinths is twofold: 1) the cabinet sides don't have to be notched (a PITA)
and 2), it is far easier to level a plinth, should the need arise, than a
cabinet.
I make them from 2x4s, both PT and white wood. The PT pieces are vertical
and screwed to the concrete floor and/or the wall sole plate, hence the
PT. I put another set of WW 2x4s horizontally on top of and nailed to the
PT ones; that normally gives me 5" from slab to the underside of the
cabinet bottom. When I add the Saltillo tile floor, I'll have 4 - 41/4"
of toe kick height. The plinth gets pieces of 1/4" cement board nailed to
it, Saltillo tile mop boards on that.
> One more thing: When you "skinny them down", won't you
> be atomizing a great deal of allegedly poisonous stuff into the air?
Well yeah. Whatever escapes my dust collector will be visited on
humanity. In this case, "humanity" is me and - since I'll be 82 this
summer - I don't much care.
Same thing happened when I cut the 96" 2x4s into pieces.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 2/8/2015 9:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> > On 2/8/2015 9:33 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> > > On 2/8/2015 9:05 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> > > > Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember
> > > > is 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went
> > > > down to 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently -
> > > > pressure treated 2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the
> > > > ones
> > > > I just bought and chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making
> > > > some cabinet plinths).
> > > >
> > > > Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans
> > > > for the rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise
> > > > the plans or skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure
> > > > wish they would decide what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
> > > >
> > > > I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is
> > > > there
> > > > some reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
> > > >
> > > For the further education of a novice, could you explain what sort
> > > of
> > > cabinets you are making that require 2x4s and why you have chosen
> > > pressure treated? One more thing: When you "skinny them down", won't
> > > you be atomizing a great deal of allegedly poisonous stuff into the
> > > air? Standard disclaimers about my overall ignorance apply. :)
> >
> > And another: How "deep" does the pressure treating go? If you need the
> > critter-resistance of PT lumber, won't you be reducing it, on two
> > sides
> > of each board?
>
> Ugh. I see now that I missed the word "plinths". I assume these will
> rest on a moist floor. But I'm still interested in the rest, if you
> wouldn't mind.
See my first response. The floor isn't "moist" but it IS concrete. Which
means that some dampness will penetrate it from the ground upon which it
sits.
Now, plain old white wood would likely be entirely satisfactory,
especially given the length of time I am likely to be in this house, but I
elected to use the best available to me. If I had a roll of tar paper
handy I probably would have used all WW on a layer of it.
Skinnying it down just involves ripping off 1/8 from the 3 5/8 dimension.
That edge won't be on the floor but would still be fine even if it were.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 2/8/15 8:39 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
>> 5/8" x 3 5/8".
>
> 2x4 is the rough-sawn size. Our previous house was a 1928 farmhouse framed with rough-sawn
> lumber: the wall studs were actually 2 inches by 4 inches, floor joists a full 2x8, etc.
>
> The main advantage of dressing rough-sawn framing lumber is to provide consistent
> dimensions: the actual size of the rough-sawn material varied +/- about 1/8".
>
2x4 finished dimensions have changed over the years.
IIRC the current 1.5x3.5 size has been the standard since the late 60s.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/8/15 11:28 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> And another: How "deep" does the pressure treating go?
>
> Somewhere I have read that it's less than 1/2 an inch.
>
As someone else stated, there are different ratings.
They make above ground, ground contact, and even water submerged treated
lumber.
The technique of treating has changed over the years as with any
technology.
IIRC, with some ratings, the treatment goes all the way through.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 10:32:29 -0500, dadiOH wrote:
> See my first response. The floor isn't "moist" but it IS concrete.
> Which means that some dampness will penetrate it from the ground upon
> which it sits.
I put some heavy plastic drop cloth on the floor, sized a couple of
inches larger than the cabinets. Put the cabinets in place and stapled
the overhang of the drop cloth to the edge of the 2x4s.
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 10:52:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
> 2x4 finished dimensions have changed over the years.
> IIRC the current 1.5x3.5 size has been the standard since the late 60s.
Not sure about the dating, but I seem to remember 1.75 x 3.75 way back
when. Of course that may have been recycled or old stock or a faulty
memory. Anyone else remember that size?
On 2/8/15 12:03 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 10:52:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> 2x4 finished dimensions have changed over the years. IIRC the
>> current 1.5x3.5 size has been the standard since the late 60s.
>
> Not sure about the dating, but I seem to remember 1.75 x 3.75 way
> back when. Of course that may have been recycled or old stock or a
> faulty memory. Anyone else remember that size?
>
I read something a while back about the history of dimensional lumber.
It kept decreasing in size every so often, so your recollection is
probably accurate.
You have to keep in mind, too, that these giant lumber yard/home stores
in every town and every major interstate interchange is a very modern
phenomenon.
Even in the 70s it was much easier people in some parts of the country
to get their lumber straight from a sawyer. There are many homes built
in the early 70s with 2x4s that are very close to nominal size.
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[email protected] wrote:
>
> I've certainly seen "stud grade" 2x4(x8)s.
>
I can only speak for how HD does this - but stud grade is structuraly rated
(SYP?) and common 2x4's are not rated for stud use. You'll often see
differences in the amount of twist between the two as well.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 2/8/15 9:05 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> You'll often see
> differences in the amount of twist between the two as well.
>
Pfft! Ain't that the truth!
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
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On 2/8/2015 10:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/8/15 9:05 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> You'll often see
>> differences in the amount of twist between the two as well.
>>
>
> Pfft! Ain't that the truth!
>
>
Lots of what they sell is what a friend of mine would call "German
Propeller" wood. Why German, I'm not sure, but I do envision the Baron
von Richtofen's plane.
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On 2/8/2015 11:28 AM, John McCoy wrote:
>
> BTW, on the subject of dimensional lumber variations, the one
> that annoys the hell out of me is the recent appearance of
> short 2x4s. I presume the idea is to save having to cut the
> ends off when framing an 8' wall, but Home Despot/Lowes
> rarely clearly mark the bin with the short ones, and it's
> too easy to pick them up by mistake.
Thank gawd for 92-5/8", pre-cut "studs"...
Saves on labor, and material, in both double top plate framing, and
putting up drywall.
Caveat Emptor always applies to buying dimensioned lumber, IOW, check
your dimensions, particularly of the first one on your cart, then make
sure the others line up.
Easy. ;)
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On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 09:33:27 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 2/8/2015 9:05 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> Maybe 2x4s were once actually 2" x 4", don't know, best I remember is 1
>> 5/8" x 3 5/8". They were that way for many years, then went down to 1
>> 1/2" x 3 1/2". That's OK, no problem but - apparently - pressure
>> treated 2x4s are still 1 5/8" x 3 5/8". At least the ones I just bought
>> and chopped down to size yesterday are (I'm making some cabinet plinths).
>>
>> Now, 1/8" isn't all that much but it's enough to screw up my plans for
>> the rest of the cabinets which means I either have to revise the plans
>> or skinny down the PT. I'll do the latter but I sure wish they would
>> decide what size 2x4s should be, PT or not.
>>
>> I guess I should ask a question, not just rant, so I will: Is there
>> some reason PT 2x4s are bigger?
>>
>For the further education of a novice, could you explain what sort of
>cabinets you are making that require 2x4s and why you have chosen
>pressure treated? One more thing: When you "skinny them down", won't you
>be atomizing a great deal of allegedly poisonous stuff into the air?
ACQ is pretty benign. Unless you're buying stuff for underground or
water contact use, it will likely be ACQ. I don't think CCA (the
stuff with arsenic) isn't sold to homeowners anymore.
>
>Standard disclaimers about my overall ignorance apply. :)
>
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On 2/8/2015 4:23 PM, Dave in South Texas wrote:
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
> They are full of water. They will likely be 1.5 x 3.5 after they dry
> out, they will be a lot lighter weight too.
>
> This is one of the reasons that I try to buy lumber that is kiln dried
> after being PT when stability in desirable and that is typically more
> expensive.
>
> Anybody besides Stahlman's sell kiln dried PT, Leon?
>
> Dave in SoTex
>
>
Not that I am aware of... ;~( I used to live withing a couple of miles
of the Stafford location. Now I only live in the neighborhood of two of
the guys that work there about 15 miles away.