Hello All,
I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
pretty good. You can see it here:
http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
I made it large at 8 ft long by 3 ft wide with a solid maple top and
SYP base. I figure that it weighs in at about 300 lbs.
I left the base open at the front to leave room for a box of drawers.
I used a variation of the router method to flatten the top. Instead of
clamping a cross member to slide the router on, I made the cross
member extra long so that I slid the entire assembly across the table.
I used two factory edges of plywood clamped to the sides of the
workbench, using winding sticks.
I applied melamine to all touching surfaces to reduce friction. It
worked perfect. Not a single high or low spot.
You can see the cross member leaning against the wall in the
background of the picture.
I figured that I would use this method since I would end up with the
fixtures afterward. I could use them to flatten extra wide boards with
the same setup.
I am open to suggestions on what finish to apply.
See you,
Gary
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> Hello All,
>>
>> I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
>> pretty good. You can see it here:
>>
>> http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
>
>Very nice. Post another pic once you finish it!
>
>> I am open to suggestions on what finish to apply.
>
Jay has done a good job of laying out the alternatives, so I'll just
intersperse comments in his post.
>No Finish At All - Some folks may wonder why you'd want to put anything
>on there at all, what with it being a work surface and likely to be
>dinged, dented and scratched. I say you really, really want some sort
>of finish that will repel stains, retard the rate of moisture transfer
>and, most importantly, make it easy to pop off glue drips. Plus, the
>aesthetics of the bench will be improved by adding a finish.
If this bench will be an assembly bench as well as a bench for
preparing stock and cutting joinery, the ability to remove excess glue
is an issue. If you have a separate assembly bench, forget that
requirement.
>Polyurethane - Good for all the above reasons, but some folks say that
>since benches get scratched all the time that poly isn't your best
>choice. Poly doesn't handle the daily wear and tear as well as some of
>the other finishes available and is more diificult to bring back to a
>smooth coat when you go to recoat it. I've read that everyone needs a
>bench, if only to provide a level surface upon which to set your coffee
>while scratching your head. Given this, poly will best repel the
>inevitable mug rings!
All good points. I rejected it because of the inability to easily
repair/refresh the finish.
>
>Shellac - This one gets mentioned from time to time. Not as good with
>the rings, but it's "easier" to repair than poly because each
>subsequent refinishing melts in with the previous coat.
My all-time favorite finish, but not for a bench. My assembly bench (a
solid-core door on a dimension lumber base) is finished with shellac
and a coat of wax. It is great for popping off glue drips, and is
easily refreshed. But as a worktop (as I was using it before building
my bench) it has a major flaw--this is as close as you will get in the
shop to a frictionless surface. I found that unpleasant to work on.
>
>Lacquer - Same as above? Where the hell'd I put my Flexner....
>
>Oil - tung oil, Danish oil, linseed oil, etc... Lots of choices here,
>and this (alone and in combination with wax) is probably the most
>recommended finish out there. You sacrifice a bit of moisture
>protection, but the big plus is that it's not so much a top coat as one
>that "penetrates" into the surface a bit. When the top gets scratched
>too much for you it's a simple matter to put another on top. Just
>scrape it lightly and buff in another coat.
I ended up using pure tung oil, primarily because the smell (or lack
thereof) would cause less noise upstairs than would BLO. Slower
drying, though. used the old formula of once a day for a week, once a
week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year thereafter.
>
>Wax - I just saw beeswax melted into mineral oil recommended. I'm
>losing steam here.
>
>Varnish - mixed with your favorite oil, highly and freqently
>recommended. Boiled Linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits mixed
>together in a Secret Formula is probably the single most recommended
>bench finish I've seen. Put a couple of coats on it and then buff on a
>coat of furniture (paste) wax. Done.
>
>JP
>**************************
>Masonite, anyone?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
[email protected] wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
> pretty good. You can see it here:
>
> http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
Very nice. Post another pic once you finish it!
> I am open to suggestions on what finish to apply.
No Finish At All - Some folks may wonder why you'd want to put anything
on there at all, what with it being a work surface and likely to be
dinged, dented and scratched. I say you really, really want some sort
of finish that will repel stains, retard the rate of moisture transfer
and, most importantly, make it easy to pop off glue drips. Plus, the
aesthetics of the bench will be improved by adding a finish.
Polyurethane - Good for all the above reasons, but some folks say that
since benches get scratched all the time that poly isn't your best
choice. Poly doesn't handle the daily wear and tear as well as some of
the other finishes available and is more diificult to bring back to a
smooth coat when you go to recoat it. I've read that everyone needs a
bench, if only to provide a level surface upon which to set your coffee
while scratching your head. Given this, poly will best repel the
inevitable mug rings!
Shellac - This one gets mentioned from time to time. Not as good with
the rings, but it's "easier" to repair than poly because each
subsequent refinishing melts in with the previous coat.
Lacquer - Same as above? Where the hell'd I put my Flexner....
Oil - tung oil, Danish oil, linseed oil, etc... Lots of choices here,
and this (alone and in combination with wax) is probably the most
recommended finish out there. You sacrifice a bit of moisture
protection, but the big plus is that it's not so much a top coat as one
that "penetrates" into the surface a bit. When the top gets scratched
too much for you it's a simple matter to put another on top. Just
scrape it lightly and buff in another coat.
Wax - I just saw beeswax melted into mineral oil recommended. I'm
losing steam here.
Varnish - mixed with your favorite oil, highly and freqently
recommended. Boiled Linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits mixed
together in a Secret Formula is probably the single most recommended
bench finish I've seen. Put a couple of coats on it and then buff on a
coat of furniture (paste) wax. Done.
JP
**************************
Masonite, anyone?
[email protected] wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
> pretty good. You can see it here:
>
> http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
>
> I made it large at 8 ft long by 3 ft wide with a solid maple top and
> SYP base. I figure that it weighs in at about 300 lbs.
>
> I left the base open at the front to leave room for a box of drawers.
>
> I used a variation of the router method to flatten the top. Instead of
> clamping a cross member to slide the router on, I made the cross
> member extra long so that I slid the entire assembly across the table.
>
> I used two factory edges of plywood clamped to the sides of the
> workbench, using winding sticks.
>
> I applied melamine to all touching surfaces to reduce friction. It
> worked perfect. Not a single high or low spot.
>
> You can see the cross member leaning against the wall in the
> background of the picture.
>
> I figured that I would use this method since I would end up with the
> fixtures afterward. I could use them to flatten extra wide boards with
> the same setup.
>
> I am open to suggestions on what finish to apply.
>
> See you,
> Gary
Nice, my workbench is covered in a sheet of perspex to stop gouges,easy
clean of glue, ect,although its not as large as that workbench.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
I used two rather heavy coats of Watco natural and then sanded it to a
sort-of rough finish. Still feels like bare wood and the workpiece
doesn't slide around (easier to pare dovetails etc). I would not let
glue dry on it though. If I get a glue drop on there I clean it up
with a wet rag immediately. I have another bench for glue-ups made
from an old solid-core door.
On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 03:58:59 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hello All,
>>
>> I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
>> pretty good. You can see it here:
>>
>> http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
>>
>> I made it large at 8 ft long by 3 ft wide with a solid maple top and
>> SYP base. I figure that it weighs in at about 300 lbs.
>>
>> I left the base open at the front to leave room for a box of drawers.
>>
>> I used a variation of the router method to flatten the top. Instead of
>> clamping a cross member to slide the router on, I made the cross
>> member extra long so that I slid the entire assembly across the table.
>>
>> I used two factory edges of plywood clamped to the sides of the
>> workbench, using winding sticks.
>>
>> I applied melamine to all touching surfaces to reduce friction. It
>> worked perfect. Not a single high or low spot.
>>
>> You can see the cross member leaning against the wall in the
>> background of the picture.
>>
>> I figured that I would use this method since I would end up with the
>> fixtures afterward. I could use them to flatten extra wide boards with
>> the same setup.
>>
>> I am open to suggestions on what finish to apply.
>>
>
>Looks nice. I love that style of feet on a bench. It is obviously quite
>substantial.
>
>Where are the dog holes??
>
>
Look close and you will see the square holes along the front edge. I
didn't have a 3/4 bit drill the dog holes in the front vise and across
the width of the table.
I'll probably do that tomorrow.
On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 09:53:53 -0400, "Dave W"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>It looks like the workbench from Fine Woodworking a few years back. I built
>one of these also. In fact, I have the same POS green vice (made in China).
>If you find a way to stiften it up, let me know.
>Dave
>
Actually both vises are made in the Czech Republic and are as tight as
can be. I got them from Lee Valley.
Gary
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello All,
>
> I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
> pretty good. You can see it here:
>
> http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
>
> I made it large at 8 ft long by 3 ft wide with a solid maple top and
> SYP base. I figure that it weighs in at about 300 lbs.
>
> I left the base open at the front to leave room for a box of drawers.
>
> I used a variation of the router method to flatten the top. Instead of
> clamping a cross member to slide the router on, I made the cross
> member extra long so that I slid the entire assembly across the table.
>
> I used two factory edges of plywood clamped to the sides of the
> workbench, using winding sticks.
>
> I applied melamine to all touching surfaces to reduce friction. It
> worked perfect. Not a single high or low spot.
>
> You can see the cross member leaning against the wall in the
> background of the picture.
>
> I figured that I would use this method since I would end up with the
> fixtures afterward. I could use them to flatten extra wide boards with
> the same setup.
>
> I am open to suggestions on what finish to apply.
>
Looks nice. I love that style of feet on a bench. It is obviously quite
substantial.
Where are the dog holes??
On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 05:38:26 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
>pretty good. You can see it here:
<snip>
>I am open to suggestions on what finish to apply.
>
>See you,
>Gary
Nice big heavy bench--one of the most useful "tools" in the shop! I
used Danish oil on mine, several coats.
just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
pretty good. You can see it here:
http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
Sweet!
I have a very similar bench (traditional maple monter) I used a 3:2:2 mix of
OB Poly, BLO and thiner ... 3 coats then paste wax. I have been pleased.
Simple, cheap, stuff was on-hand. I was looking for a compromise of
protection but without much build. I suppose a wip-on poly would get me to
about the same place.
The wax is top repel glue or finish drips. some folks prefer a not so slippy
top. Personally I think benefits outweigh the downside. YMMV.
FWIW, I releveled the top after 3 years a few months back. I applied the
same finish.
-Steve
On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 05:38:26 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
>pretty good. You can see it here:
>
>http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
>
>I made it large at 8 ft long by 3 ft wide with a solid maple top and
>SYP base. I figure that it weighs in at about 300 lbs.
>
>I left the base open at the front to leave room for a box of drawers.
>
... Looks nice. Shop looks pretty good too.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
On 26 Aug 2006 04:00:58 -0700, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> Hello All,
>>
>> I just completed my new workbench and I thingk that it turned out
>> pretty good. You can see it here:
>>
>> http://www.arealnice.com/shop/
>
>Very nice. Post another pic once you finish it!
>
>> I am open to suggestions on what finish to apply.
>
>No Finish At All - Some folks may wonder why you'd want to put anything
>on there at all, what with it being a work surface and likely to be
>dinged, dented and scratched. I say you really, really want some sort
>of finish that will repel stains, retard the rate of moisture transfer
>and, most importantly, make it easy to pop off glue drips. Plus, the
>aesthetics of the bench will be improved by adding a finish.
>
>Polyurethane - Good for all the above reasons, but some folks say that
>since benches get scratched all the time that poly isn't your best
>choice. Poly doesn't handle the daily wear and tear as well as some of
>the other finishes available and is more diificult to bring back to a
>smooth coat when you go to recoat it. I've read that everyone needs a
>bench, if only to provide a level surface upon which to set your coffee
>while scratching your head. Given this, poly will best repel the
>inevitable mug rings!
>
>Shellac - This one gets mentioned from time to time. Not as good with
>the rings, but it's "easier" to repair than poly because each
>subsequent refinishing melts in with the previous coat.
>
>Lacquer - Same as above? Where the hell'd I put my Flexner....
>
>Oil - tung oil, Danish oil, linseed oil, etc... Lots of choices here,
>and this (alone and in combination with wax) is probably the most
>recommended finish out there. You sacrifice a bit of moisture
>protection, but the big plus is that it's not so much a top coat as one
>that "penetrates" into the surface a bit. When the top gets scratched
>too much for you it's a simple matter to put another on top. Just
>scrape it lightly and buff in another coat.
>
>Wax - I just saw beeswax melted into mineral oil recommended. I'm
>losing steam here.
>
>Varnish - mixed with your favorite oil, highly and freqently
>recommended. Boiled Linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits mixed
>together in a Secret Formula is probably the single most recommended
>bench finish I've seen. Put a couple of coats on it and then buff on a
>coat of furniture (paste) wax. Done.
>
>JP
>**************************
>Masonite, anyone?
Well, I appreciate all the choices.
I think that I have settled on some kind of oil. Probably wax it to
help get off the inevitable glue drops.
Thanks,
Gary