Hello all, I have a staining question.=20
I have a maple bar rail that I recently installed, and I'm having a stainin=
g issue. After gluing it together and mounting it to the bar top, I finishe=
d sanded it to 400 grit. When I stained it, the curve section of the bar wa=
s much darker than the rest of the bar, but I could live with it. When I us=
ed a polyurethane top coat a day later, it ended up having a goop-ing effec=
t that I then sanded down. I ended up sanding down the bar back to the wood=
(400 grit), and re-stained again. Now it's even lighter than before.=20
What can I do? Should I use a higher grit? multiple applications don't seem=
to matter.
Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 3/16/2018 10:27 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>>> [email protected] wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On Wed, 14 Mar 2018 15:44:33 -0700 (PDT),
>>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I stop sanding at 150, and yeah, maple's a bitch. I use a
>>>>> spray/wipe/spray process where
>>> I flood the piece, wait 60 seconds, then wipe all the excess
>>> away and let dry. The second spray is a light coat for colour.
>>>>
>>>> Gel stains help some, too.
>>>
>>> Or dyes. Maple is notoriously difficult to stain.
>>
>> I have a question. I have only used dyes on a couple of
>> projects, on white oak. I needed deep dark.
>>
>> Anyway, have you used dyes on maple? Is that the solution?
>
> Once, anyway. I'm no expert. I'd rather just varnish or oil it.
>>
I to try not to stain. :-)
>
I stop sanding at 150, and yeah, maple's a bitch. I use a spray/wipe/spray process where I flood the piece, wait 60 seconds, then wipe all the excess away and let dry. The second spray is a light coat for colour.
Hate to say it, but I would strip the rail completely, sand 80 -> 120 -> 150 then re-stain. While I don't usually use a conditioner, that particular piece of wood might call for it..
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 15:26:40 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 3/24/2018 8:50 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 3/24/2018 12:16 AM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>>>>>> Gel stains help some, too.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Or dyes. Maple is notoriously difficult to stain.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a question. I have only used dyes on a couple of
>>>>> projects, on white oak. I needed deep dark.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyway, have you used dyes on maple? Is that the solution?
>>>>
>>>> Once, anyway. I'm no expert. I'd rather just varnish or oil it.
>>>>>
>>>
>>> I to try not to stain. :-)
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Same here. Good latex paint covers in one coat.
>
>Sure does! ;~)
Easy cleanup, too. What's not to like?
On 3/12/2018 6:14 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Hello all, I have a staining question.
> I have a maple bar rail that I recently installed, and I'm having a staining issue. After gluing it together and mounting it to the bar top, I finished sanded it to 400 grit. When I stained it, the curve section of the bar was much darker than the rest of the bar, but I could live with it. When I used a polyurethane top coat a day later, it ended up having a goop-ing effect that I then sanded down. I ended up sanding down the bar back to the wood (400 grit), and re-stained again. Now it's even lighter than before.
>
> What can I do? Should I use a higher grit? multiple applications don't seem to matter.
>
Stop sanding at 180 and use a prestain/wood conditioner. Maple is
notorious for being difficult to stain and getting even
coverage/darkness. You may need to apply two coats of stain.
On 3/24/2018 8:50 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 3/24/2018 12:16 AM, Leon wrote:
>
>>>>>> Gel stains help some, too.
>>>>>
>>>>> Or dyes. Maple is notoriously difficult to stain.
>>>>
>>>> I have a question. I have only used dyes on a couple of
>>>> projects, on white oak. I needed deep dark.
>>>>
>>>> Anyway, have you used dyes on maple? Is that the solution?
>>>
>>> Once, anyway. I'm no expert. I'd rather just varnish or oil it.
>>>>
>>
>> I to try not to stain. :-)
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> Same here. Good latex paint covers in one coat.
Sure does! ;~)
[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On Wed, 14 Mar 2018 15:44:33 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]
> wrote:
>
>>I stop sanding at 150, and yeah, maple's a bitch. I use a spray/wipe/spray process where
I flood the piece, wait 60 seconds, then wipe all the excess away and let dry. The second
spray is a light coat for colour.
>
> Gel stains help some, too.
Or dyes. Maple is notoriously difficult to stain.
>
>>Hate to say it, but I would strip the rail completely, sand 80 -> 120 -> 150 then re-stain.
While I don't usually use a conditioner, that particular piece of wood might call for it..
>
>
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 3/16/2018 10:27 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On Wed, 14 Mar 2018 15:44:33 -0700 (PDT),
>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> I stop sanding at 150, and yeah, maple's a bitch. I use a
>>>> spray/wipe/spray process where
>> I flood the piece, wait 60 seconds, then wipe all the excess
>> away and let dry. The second spray is a light coat for colour.
>>>
>>> Gel stains help some, too.
>>
>> Or dyes. Maple is notoriously difficult to stain.
>
> I have a question. I have only used dyes on a couple of
> projects, on white oak. I needed deep dark.
>
> Anyway, have you used dyes on maple? Is that the solution?
Once, anyway. I'm no expert. I'd rather just varnish or oil it.
>
> A friend built a maple table for a customer and sanded, stained,
> varnished and sanded to bare wood 3.5 times. It never looked
> bad until he varnished.
>
> Ultimately he bought a better sander and that solved half of his
> issues.
On Wed, 14 Mar 2018 15:44:33 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]
wrote:
>I stop sanding at 150, and yeah, maple's a bitch. I use a spray/wipe/spray process where I flood the piece, wait 60 seconds, then wipe all the excess away and let dry. The second spray is a light coat for colour.
Gel stains help some, too.
>Hate to say it, but I would strip the rail completely, sand 80 -> 120 -> 150 then re-stain. While I don't usually use a conditioner, that particular piece of wood might call for it..
On 3/16/2018 10:27 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> [email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Wed, 14 Mar 2018 15:44:33 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I stop sanding at 150, and yeah, maple's a bitch. I use a spray/wipe/spray process where
> I flood the piece, wait 60 seconds, then wipe all the excess away and let dry. The second
> spray is a light coat for colour.
>>
>> Gel stains help some, too.
>
> Or dyes. Maple is notoriously difficult to stain.
I have a question. I have only used dyes on a couple of projects, on
white oak. I needed deep dark.
Anyway, have you used dyes on maple? Is that the solution?
A friend built a maple table for a customer and sanded, stained,
varnished and sanded to bare wood 3.5 times. It never looked bad until
he varnished.
Ultimately he bought a better sander and that solved half of his issues.
>>
>>> Hate to say it, but I would strip the rail completely, sand 80 -> 120 -> 150 then re-stain.
> While I don't usually use a conditioner, that particular piece of wood might call for it..
>>
>>
>
On 3/24/2018 12:16 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> Gel stains help some, too.
>>>>
>>>> Or dyes. Maple is notoriously difficult to stain.
>>>
>>> I have a question. I have only used dyes on a couple of
>>> projects, on white oak. I needed deep dark.
>>>
>>> Anyway, have you used dyes on maple? Is that the solution?
>>
>> Once, anyway. I'm no expert. I'd rather just varnish or oil it.
>>>
>
> I to try not to stain. :-)
>>
>
>
>
Same here. Good latex paint covers in one coat.