I've been wanting to do some boxes for awhile now, and wanted a
table saw sled for repeatable cutting, well, in truth, several, for
several different cuts. Looked at a lot of instructions, that left me
with more questions than answers. Then found this site.
http://www.imaging.robarts.ca/~amulder/wood/j.sled2/
Haven't finished it yet, but already finding things those so-called
plans don't bother mentioning. No prob, as I usually consider anything
like this I make, the first one is usually the Mark I version, the
learning version, and the serious one is the Mark II version, made with
the lessons learned from the first one.
This answered what I wanted to know. So started my first table saw
sled ever. I didn't have a piece of plywood available in the size I
wanted (do have, but it's earmarked for something else, and couldn't
spare it), but, did have a piece of the truss making plywood, about 2"
thick, and 12"X14". The kid pulled it out of the trash at a job site,
it was about the right size, and it was free - perfect. No hardwood or
plastic for runners, no prob, slice some 1/2" plywood for runners.
OK, cut the runners. Fine, except just a hair too wide, wouldn't
fit in the slot. No prob, I could sand them a bit, but decided to just
turn them on edge instead. Hmm, bowed just a bit. No prob, gonna wax
the slots anyway, so if any glue dripped it wouldn't stick. A couple of
popsicle sticks worked just fine as wedges. Waxed the popsicle sticks,
and all of a sudden they looked beautiful. Not sure what wood they are,
maybe birch, but lovely. Now thinking of cutting the ends off, gluing
them to a table top, and waxing. Should make a rather nice, and
different, table top.
Glued the thick top, and put some weight on that, and let it set.
Worked great. Just got a new carbide tip on the saw, and it cut thru
that stuff like a dream. However. Had already planned on putting a
section of wood, probably 2X4 on the back. Should have done that first,
as it separated just a fraction when sawed.
On the front end, was gonna have a strip of 2X4, as a straight
edge, for bracing, handle, etc., and then on the back of that, a shorter
piece of 2X4, to act as sort of a thumb stop, so I could just grab the
long piece, and the short piece would make sure that even if the blade
came all the way thru, my thumb would still be away from it. Well,
glued on the short piece first. Hmmm. Well, no prob actually. I can
but a strip of plywood on the front of that, and that will be the
handle. I will cut it a bit lower than the 2X4, and that will make a
better handle.
Actually, I'm thinking I will keep this one, once it is done, for
awhile at least, because it will do just what I want, without doing a
Mark II version. But, because the plans I read didn't mention some
stuff, it will wind up a bit more klutzy. Apparently those people make
perfect plans, and expect people to actually follow them. Either that,
or they don't tell about their screwups. But, that's OK, because the
other ones I'll be needing will receive the benefit of what I'm learning
from this one.
I'll be putting this in my Work in Progress page, with a link to
it. Maybe with pictures later.
JOAT
If Pro means 'For' and Con means 'Against', you can safely say the
opposite of 'Pro' is 'Con'. Can we then assume that the opposite of
'Progress' is 'Congress'? - Unknown
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 9 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Splitting hairs but a nylon srew would last longer.
On 27 Sep 2003 09:21:13 -0700, [email protected] (Alan W)
wrote:
>>
>> To prevent side to side slop, drill two holes in the side of the runner. One
>> near the front and one near the back. Put a short set screw (find one with a
>> relatively flat top) into this hole and screw it down enough so that the
>> runner barely fits into the slot. If it is too loose, back the screw out a
>> bit. Too tight, screw it down.
>>
>
>I would recommend changing to a plastic screw and perhaps a threaded
>insert in the body of the runner. A metal set screw will eventually
>widen the miter slot from abrasion.
>
>Alan
Well, the first sled is coming along nicely, but need a few bits
more to finish it up - that I don't have just now. In a day or three.
But, that has gone so well, started another, smaller, sled
yesterday. Still learning. The base is about 12" X 14". So, wouldn't
you know it, I turned it so the long side goes from front to back of the
saw. It will work, but barely wide enough. This one will be used for
lopping box sides to length. Did the runners same as the first one.
And, didn't check both sides of the runners. The down side was a bit
rougher than the top sides, so, of course, I reversed them. Took the
weights off earlier, and the runner hadnt been glued full length.
Squirted some glue, and clamped. Should work. Made the runners a bit
long too, thinking I will trim them even with the bottom of the sled,
because I can't see any advantage of having them protrude. Seeing the
advantage will come about 5 seconds after trimming, probably.
The first sled will be usable, even tho a bit clumsy and clunky.
The second should be better. And, by the time I get to the third, I
should know what I'm supposed to be doing. Been interesting, and
useful. I would recommend everyone make a saw sled or two, even if only
for the learning experience.
JOAT
If Pro means 'For' and Con means 'Against', you can safely say the
opposite of 'Pro' is 'Con'. Can we then assume that the opposite of
'Progress' is 'Congress'? - Unknown
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 13 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
In article <[email protected]>, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
> a really long, tight-fitting runner
The runners for a crosscut sled I made for a Delta QT 10 tablesaw have
a *minor* bit of play in them. The original slot runner (?) for the
miter thingie <senior moment> that came with the saw has two little
circular, flat, metal, washer-like, screwed-on "feet" that extend into
narrow slits at the bottom of the slot to prevent play. Does anyone
know where I can purchase some of these to attach to my runners?
I bought this saw at the BORG, but they don't have them or know where I
can get them.
Gerry
P.S. No derisive laughter about what I bought or where I bought it. It
was all I could afford. I wasn't being a cheapskate, I was being a
brokeskate. <sigh>
In article <[email protected]>, JackD <[email protected]> wrote:
> To prevent side to side slop, drill two holes in the side of the runner. One
> near the front and one near the back. Put a short set screw (find one with a
> relatively flat top) into this hole and screw it down enough so that the
> runner barely fits into the slot. If it is too loose, back the screw out a
> bit. Too tight, screw it down.
What a great idea. The only thing wrong with it is that I never thought
of it. ;-)
Gerry <who momentarily forgot the K.I.S.S. principle>
In article <[email protected]>, George
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Better idea is to knurl the bar along its length so you don't have the
> possibility of movement as the foreword shim exits the groove, leaving a gap
> to swing into....
Could you please explain what you mean by knurling the bar and how that
would help. I'm not sure that I understand. Wouldn't placing 3 or 4 set
screws along the length of the runner stop it from slopping when the
first one clears the slot?
Gerry
"Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been wanting to do some boxes for awhile now, and wanted a
> table saw sled for repeatable cutting, well, in truth, several, for
> several different cuts. Looked at a lot of instructions, that left me
> with more questions than answers. Then found this site.
> http://www.imaging.robarts.ca/~amulder/wood/j.sled2/
>
Sure rung a bell - my second sled was last weekend's project. I was
following along with the video from Tauton's website. Got to the part about
glueing the fence down, then making test cuts.
Well - the Taunton site tells you to put in all the screws, that you'll
still be able to make fine adjustments to square the fence by applying
clamping pressure.
After about 8 minutes of clamping, consistenly un-square test cuts and a lot
of swearing - I decided to "disassemble" the whole shebang by tossing it
against the wall. :)
One screw at one edge of the fence is the way I'll tackle it this weekend!
Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT wrote:
> because I can't see any advantage of having them protrude. Seeing the
> advantage will come about 5 seconds after trimming, probably.
I've been using one for a bit now, and I cut them off more or less flush
with the back of the table at a point where the sled is as far off the
table as it can reasonably be before it's too far off balance. The runner
> should know what I'm supposed to be doing. Been interesting, and
> useful. I would recommend everyone make a saw sled or two, even if only
> for the learning experience.
The one I cut in half is now a two-part miter sled. It would be better if
both halves were joined, so that it would run in both slots simultaneously,
but I find merely having a really long, tight-fitting runner is enough to
make it work. I've gotten some really respectable miters using these
things, and can see no real advantage to re-joining the halves.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17746 Approximate word count: 532380
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Better idea is to knurl the bar along its length so you don't have the
possibility of movement as the foreword shim exits the groove, leaving a gap
to swing into....
"G.E.R.R.Y." <DON'[email protected]> wrote in message
news:260920031603536678%DON'[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, JackD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > To prevent side to side slop, drill two holes in the side of the runner.
One
> > near the front and one near the back. Put a short set screw (find one
with a
> > relatively flat top) into this hole and screw it down enough so that the
> > runner barely fits into the slot. If it is too loose, back the screw out
a
> > bit. Too tight, screw it down.
>
> What a great idea. The only thing wrong with it is that I never thought
> of it. ;-)
>
> Gerry <who momentarily forgot the K.I.S.S. principle>
Been interesting, and
> useful. I would recommend everyone make a saw sled or two, even if only
> for the learning experience.
>
Good advice. I'm on my third, the first two for run-of-the-mill (cute?)
cross cutting, second for cabinets, and now I'm about to start one for
dadoes. Learned a lot after consolidating design elements from three
different ones. Does anyone have any tips for doing the one on dadoes?
TIA
In article <260920031603536678%DON'[email protected]>,
DON'[email protected] says...
> In article <[email protected]>, JackD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > To prevent side to side slop, drill two holes in the side of the runner. One
> > near the front and one near the back. Put a short set screw (find one with a
> > relatively flat top) into this hole and screw it down enough so that the
> > runner barely fits into the slot. If it is too loose, back the screw out a
> > bit. Too tight, screw it down.
>
> What a great idea. The only thing wrong with it is that I never thought
> of it. ;-)
Maybe Jack D didn't either. Still, like the NY newsboy who was
complained to because he sold the guy yesterday's newspaper: "So what!
Had you read it.?"
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> "Lawrence Rottersman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <260920031603536678%DON'[email protected]>,
> > DON'[email protected] says...
> > > In article <[email protected]>, JackD <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >
> > > > To prevent side to side slop, drill two holes in the side of the
> runner. One
> > > > near the front and one near the back. Put a short set screw (find one
> with a
> > > > relatively flat top) into this hole and screw it down enough so that
> the
> > > > runner barely fits into the slot. If it is too loose, back the screw
> out a
> > > > bit. Too tight, screw it down.
> > >
> > > What a great idea. The only thing wrong with it is that I never thought
> > > of it. ;-)
> >
> > Maybe Jack D didn't either. Still, like the NY newsboy who was
> > complained to because he sold the guy yesterday's newspaper: "So what!
> > Had you read it.?"
>
> Oh, I indeed thought of it. I was not the first however. I've seen something
> like this before.
> Things like the lever, the screw and the wheel have also been invented
> before, but there is always a new application for them.
>
> -Jack
>
Then you have my admiration, too, Jack; like the emailer who inspired
the thread, I also thought the washers on the miter gauge were to make
it travel tight.
So where you at? I could use a piece of track.
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> mttt wrote:
>
> > After about 8 minutes of clamping, consistenly un-square test cuts and a
> > lot of swearing - I decided to "disassemble" the whole shebang by
tossing
> > it
> > against the wall. :)
>
> Sledge hammer and a piece of railroad track is much more fun. I have a
> spare piece of railroad track if anyone wants it, but I ain't payin' to
> ship it. Put the offending piece on the track, then apply the sledge
> hammer delicately. Wear ear and eye protection. Then you can use the
> piece to practice your dent removal techniques, and after that, you can
> repeat the whole process as many times as you like. :)
>
> --
> Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
> Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
> Confirmed post number: 17696 Approximate word count: 530880
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
>
Support the bar solidly, and take a punch and dimple randomly along the
length. The raised portion of the metal will grip the sides of the groove.
You can do as many or as few as will do, and sometimes it's machining in the
bar, so you only need them in the low spots.
It's like placing lots and lots of set screws on the length.
"G.E.R.R.Y." <DON'[email protected]> wrote in message
news:270920031203225691%DON'[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, George
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Better idea is to knurl the bar along its length so you don't have the
> > possibility of movement as the foreword shim exits the groove, leaving a
gap
> > to swing into....
>
> Could you please explain what you mean by knurling the bar and how that
> would help. I'm not sure that I understand. Wouldn't placing 3 or 4 set
> screws along the length of the runner stop it from slopping when the
> first one clears the slot?
>
> Gerry
On Fri 12 Sep 2003 04:59:31p, "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in
> Well - the Taunton site tells you to put in all the screws, that
> you'll still be able to make fine adjustments to square the fence by
> applying clamping pressure.
>
> After about 8 minutes of clamping, consistenly un-square test cuts and
> a lot of swearing - I decided to "disassemble" the whole shebang by
> tossing it against the wall. :)
>
> One screw at one edge of the fence is the way I'll tackle it this
> weekend!
I think I saw that, if you're talking about the "squaring your crosscut
sled" video. I thought about the way he did it and kept thinking about it,
and I think I would have ended up the same way you did. One shot at getting
exactly the right adjustment, in the proper direction, with a pony clamp,
before the glue dries, isn't enough for the likes of me. I envy that guy
his expertise and if I was building lots of sleds maybe I'd get that good.
But still... how are you going to hold the other end of the fence while you
make your test cuts and adjustments?
Dan
About 18 years ago, I got hold of a piece of track, welded a piece of two
inch round to the front of it and welded a piece of one inch plate to the
top. Used a torch to rough shape the two inch bar into a horn shape and
finished with an angle grinder. Burned a hole in the back end of the top and
filed it square for a hardie hole. Pretty nice little anvil when I got it
done. Soft top though.
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CW wrote:
>
> > A little to far. I'm in Seattle.
>
> Yeah, just a trifle too far to drive I'd imagine.
>
> If you _really_ want the piece of track, and you want to pay to have the
> thing shipped to you.....
>
> Nah, I didn't think so. I guess I'll figure out something to do with the
> rest of it eventually. One piece is an anvil. The other piece is a
> counterweight for a trebuchet. The remaining piece is just sitting there
> so I can look at it and go "damn, I don't believe I actually managed to
cut
> that in half!"
>
> --
> Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
> Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
> Confirmed post number: 17717 Approximate word count: 531510
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
>
"G.E.R.R.Y." <DON'[email protected]> wrote in message
news:260920031156424198%DON'[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, Silvan
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > a really long, tight-fitting runner
>
> The runners for a crosscut sled I made for a Delta QT 10 tablesaw have
> a *minor* bit of play in them. The original slot runner (?) for the
> miter thingie <senior moment> that came with the saw has two little
> circular, flat, metal, washer-like, screwed-on "feet" that extend into
> narrow slits at the bottom of the slot to prevent play. Does anyone
> know where I can purchase some of these to attach to my runners?
>
> I bought this saw at the BORG, but they don't have them or know where I
> can get them.
>
> Gerry
The feet are not there to prevent side to side movement. They are there to
prevent the miter thingie from lifting out of the slot. You can use a washer
or even a flat piece of 1/8" metal for this purpose.
To prevent side to side slop, drill two holes in the side of the runner. One
near the front and one near the back. Put a short set screw (find one with a
relatively flat top) into this hole and screw it down enough so that the
runner barely fits into the slot. If it is too loose, back the screw out a
bit. Too tight, screw it down.
-Jack
"Lawrence Rottersman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <260920031603536678%DON'[email protected]>,
> DON'[email protected] says...
> > In article <[email protected]>, JackD <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > To prevent side to side slop, drill two holes in the side of the
runner. One
> > > near the front and one near the back. Put a short set screw (find one
with a
> > > relatively flat top) into this hole and screw it down enough so that
the
> > > runner barely fits into the slot. If it is too loose, back the screw
out a
> > > bit. Too tight, screw it down.
> >
> > What a great idea. The only thing wrong with it is that I never thought
> > of it. ;-)
>
> Maybe Jack D didn't either. Still, like the NY newsboy who was
> complained to because he sold the guy yesterday's newspaper: "So what!
> Had you read it.?"
Oh, I indeed thought of it. I was not the first however. I've seen something
like this before.
Things like the lever, the screw and the wheel have also been invented
before, but there is always a new application for them.
-Jack
>
> To prevent side to side slop, drill two holes in the side of the runner. One
> near the front and one near the back. Put a short set screw (find one with a
> relatively flat top) into this hole and screw it down enough so that the
> runner barely fits into the slot. If it is too loose, back the screw out a
> bit. Too tight, screw it down.
>
I would recommend changing to a plastic screw and perhaps a threaded
insert in the body of the runner. A metal set screw will eventually
widen the miter slot from abrasion.
Alan
"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Make the sled and attach the runner(s). Make the first cut before
> attaching the fence(s). Use a [good] framing square or a factory corner
> of ply or mdf clamped to the sled and aligned with the freshly cut edge on
> one factory edge and use the other factory edge to align/glue/screw on the
> fence.
>
If you trust factory corners and/or edges.
I learnt not to long ago. They don't make factories like they used to.
CW wrote:
> A little to far. I'm in Seattle.
Yeah, just a trifle too far to drive I'd imagine.
If you _really_ want the piece of track, and you want to pay to have the
thing shipped to you.....
Nah, I didn't think so. I guess I'll figure out something to do with the
rest of it eventually. One piece is an anvil. The other piece is a
counterweight for a trebuchet. The remaining piece is just sitting there
so I can look at it and go "damn, I don't believe I actually managed to cut
that in half!"
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17717 Approximate word count: 531510
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
A little to far. I'm in Seattle.
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CW wrote:
>
> > So where you at? I could use a piece of track.
>
> Christiansburg, VA
>
> --
> Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
> Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
> Confirmed post number: 17703 Approximate word count: 531090
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
>
CW wrote:
> So where you at? I could use a piece of track.
Christiansburg, VA
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17703 Approximate word count: 531090
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
mttt wrote:
> After about 8 minutes of clamping, consistenly un-square test cuts and a
> lot of swearing - I decided to "disassemble" the whole shebang by tossing
> it
> against the wall. :)
Sledge hammer and a piece of railroad track is much more fun. I have a
spare piece of railroad track if anyone wants it, but I ain't payin' to
ship it. Put the offending piece on the track, then apply the sledge
hammer delicately. Wear ear and eye protection. Then you can use the
piece to practice your dent removal techniques, and after that, you can
repeat the whole process as many times as you like. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17696 Approximate word count: 530880
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT wrote:
> This answered what I wanted to know. So started my first table saw
> sled ever. I didn't have a piece of plywood available in the size I
I did a dumb dumb on mine. I had a lot of pieces of 15-ply hardwood of some
flavor or other. Probably birch. They're only 4" wide.
So I cut my runners, laid them in, put a piece of this stuff and checked
that it was perpendicular and parallel and all that, then clamped it down.
Marked lines, drilled countersink holes, screwed to the rails. Then I did
another 4" wide strip in front of the first one.
So far so good. Then I took a piece of angle iron and checked that it was
really 90-degrees. Punched/drilled some screw holes, laid it out parallel,
screwed it down, screwed a fence onto it.
I put a note on it in Sharpie. "WARNING: ALWAYS CLAMP A STOP BLOCK TO THE
BACK OF THE TABLE TO AVOID CUTTING THROUGH THE ANGLE IRON."
Looked snazzy.
Worked for awhile, until I had the blade fully extended, and I was trying to
resaw some bit of 2x4 or such. I pushed it too far, knocked the block off
the back of the table, and went right into the angle iron with my brand
freaking new blade.
Damn.
In the Mark II version, I finished the cut with my metal-cutting bandsaw,
and mounted the same fence back on. It was hard to line up the split
pieces, but I got it there. I glued everything to the rails this time, and
glued the front piece of plywood to the back one. I tried to dowel it with
my General jig, but the jig slipped unawares, and everything came out
borked, so I just did without the dowels.
Worked OK, except that the glue made the wood swell, and my precision cut
rails were too fat for the slots. So I carefully trimmed them down with an
impromptu scraper.
Then I realized that after I cut something tall like the thing that ruined
my first slde, the only thing holding the two halves of the thing together
would be, well, nothing. So I took off the fence and made a new, taller
one with a curve cut onto it so that it's only tall right over the blade.
So then the only thing holding the two halves together was that little 3/4"
bit of plywood at the top of the arch, after I cut through with the blade
fully extended. Probably not good.
So then I cut a whole bunch of little blocks of plywood, glued and stacked
them up to the correct height, with two more thickness of plywood across
the top as a bridge.
As it was clamped down with the glue drying, it occurred to me that I would
have been better off if I had drilled holes through all of the blocks, and
run a dowel through them.
Oh well. So far, so good. I've made a ton of cuts on this thing, and have
even done some surprisingly successful resawing with the aid of guide
blocks clamped to either side (I don't have and can't readily make a
zero-clearance insert for this saw, so the sled also doubles as a fake zero
clearance for certain types of rip operations.)
I did the resawing with the blade that cut the angle iron, incidentally.
The finish isn't what it was before I ruined the blade, but it's still
better than the original Skil blade I had. It will do until I can afford
to buy a new blade. (And I'll send this one off somewhere to have it
sharpened.)
So anyway, blah blah blah, I made a sled out of some crap I had in the shop,
without a plan, and it works fine. Time well invested in improving the
quality of the stuff I can do with this saw.
Now that I'm thinking of finger joints for boxes though, I have a problem.
My blade is ATB or whatever, and the kerf has little angles. In order to
make proper cuts, I'm going to have to pop for a dado set, and if I run a
dado set through this sled, I will screw up the nice kerf that lets me
accurately position the work.
So I guess I have to build Mark III as a dedicated finger jig.
Too bad I used up all that free plywood. :(
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17678 Approximate word count: 530340
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Thu, Sep 11, 2003, 9:42pm [email protected] (Silvan) says:
<snip> went right into the angle iron with my brand freaking new
blade.<snip>
ROTFLMAO I'm not planning on any metal on mine, but had already
decided to glue a stop block on, that'll hit the front edge of the saw,
so I won't cut thru far enough to expose the blade - and possibly get
cut.
However, I am thinking of putting a clamp, on a bridge, to hold the
wood in place. I got one of these skeleton caulking guns, pretty sure I
only paid about $2, forget now where I got it, had it for awhile, saving
it for just this purpose.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1275293&cp=&searchId=5290120980&keywords=caulking&page=2&pageBucket=0&parentPage=search
I'll cut it just behind the front, bend the "legs" up, drill holes
in each, drill a hole in the bridge, for the round pusher, and fasten it
down. Position the wood, one hand to hold it, and one to work the
cauking gun/clamp handle, and viola. No prob.
That way I'll have a hand to push the sled, and one to hold the end
of the wood, if it's that long, without worrying over the wood moving.
JOAT
If Pro means 'For' and Con means 'Against', you can safely say the
opposite of 'Pro' is 'Con'. Can we then assume that the opposite of
'Progress' is 'Congress'? - Unknown
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 11 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
> However, I am thinking of putting a clamp, on a bridge, to hold the
> wood in place. I got one of these skeleton caulking guns, pretty sure I
> only paid about $2, forget now where I got it, had it for awhile, saving
> it for just this purpose.
>
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1275293&cp=&searchId=5290120980&keywords=caulking&page=2&pageBucket=0&parentPage=search
>
> I'll cut it just behind the front, bend the "legs" up, drill holes
> in each, drill a hole in the bridge, for the round pusher, and fasten it
> down. Position the wood, one hand to hold it, and one to work the
> cauking gun/clamp handle, and viola. No prob.
JOAT,
You sure that the caulking gun will supply constant pressure? It works for
caulk because the caulk and the tube are springy so even when you release
the handle and it backs up a bit it is still compressing the tube, but I
don't think it will work with a rigid object in there.
Stick a piece of scrap in the gun right now and check it out before you
spend time mounting it.
-Jack
Fri, Sep 12, 2003, 9:54am (EDT-3) [email protected] (JackD) asks:
You sure that the caulking gun will supply constant pressure? <snip>
Yep. I got the idea from one I read about. Same system my 6"
metal quick clamps use, and they hold, so I don't see any problem.
JOAT
If Pro means 'For' and Con means 'Against', you can safely say the
opposite of 'Pro' is 'Con'. Can we then assume that the opposite of
'Progress' is 'Congress'? - Unknown
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 11 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT wrote:
>
> > Thu, Sep 11, 2003, 9:42pm [email protected] (Silvan) says:
> > <snip> went right into the angle iron with my brand freaking new
> > blade.<snip>
> >
> > ROTFLMAO I'm not planning on any metal on mine, but had already
> > decided to glue a stop block on, that'll hit the front edge of the saw,
> > so I won't cut thru far enough to expose the blade - and possibly get
> > cut.
I made one for my students at school, spent a good while at it, had a nice
safety shield on it, and the first day, one of my students cut it all the
way in half.
I made sure he helped me fix it.
--
Jim in NC
Make the sled long enough that it hangs off the saw far enough to get a
clamp on it.
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> But still... how are you going to hold the other end of the fence while
you
> make your test cuts and adjustments?
>
> Dan
CW wrote:
> About 18 years ago, I got hold of a piece of track, welded a piece of two
> inch round to the front of it and welded a piece of one inch plate to the
> top. Used a torch to rough shape the two inch bar into a horn shape and
> finished with an angle grinder. Burned a hole in the back end of the top
> and filed it square for a hardie hole. Pretty nice little anvil when I got
> it done. Soft top though.
I agree about the soft top. I was expecting it to be a lot tougher than it
is, but I find that it dents very easily. It's also extremely springy.
Hafta watch that I don't whack myself in the head when the hammer bounces
back.
Not that I've ever used a real anvil, mind you, so maybe that's just par for
the course.
Yours is a lot fancier than mine, BTW. I have no horn, and no hardy hole.
For a horn, I have an S-cam from a truck that I clamp into my vise. I've
never really needed a hardy hole for anything. I don't do any steel or
iron work, other than occasional stuff with bar/angle stock, and I can't
weld. I use my anvil for shaping copper, brass, and occasionally aluminum.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17720 Approximate word count: 531600
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/