>> 2723) A tool for making round holes in thin sheet metal. You drill
>> a
>> hole to pass the screw, select the right size backing plate to
>> go on the other side, tighten the nut, and then turn the upper
>> part with a wrench and tighten the nut as the rollers force a
>> groove into the metal.
------------------------------------------------------
"Rob H." wrote:
> Correct, for use by an electrician or machinist.
----------------------------------------------------
The Greenlee "Radio chassis punch" marked a significant advance
when it came to punching large holes in sheet metal.
Lew
On 11/23/2012 10:31 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 11/22/2012 9:02 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> A deprimer most often needs a small pin to press the primer out
>>>> however this thing appears old and some old style cartridges did not
>>>> have a center hole for the primer spark to reach the powder. An old
>>>> military 7mm Mauser round for instance used 2 offset small holes for
>>>> this purpose. My friend and I devised a method for removing the
>>>> primers from these cartridges using water and a milled to fit steel
>>>> dowel to hydraulically force the primers out. A mess and time
>>>> consuming but we were teenagers... ;~)
>>>>
>>>> Notice the flash holes on the left cartridge before the modification
>>>> on the right.
>>>>
>>>
>>> A minor detail Leon, but it still requires a projection of some sort
>>> into the casing. It really does not matter if there is a center
>>> hole, there is still a seated primer that will require some sort of
>>> force to extract it. The object in Rob's post does not have such a
>>> feature.
>>
>>
>> Imagine that there is the possibility, like many other objects posted
>> here, that the item is not complete.
>
> That is indeed quite possible, which is why I have not absolutely stated
> that it can't be a primer extractor. Looking at the larger pictures it does
> look like there are reliefs in the fork which could accept a shell holder.
> The device still looks imprecise enough to make me question whether it is a
> depriming tool though.
>
Not to argue with you here, ;~) I suspect that this tool is very old
and while it may very well not be a deprimer it may be old enough that
each was hand made, like the guns that shot that type ammo.
On 11/23/2012 5:12 PM, Rob H. wrote:
>
>> 2720. Broken ceramic insulation of an IC engine sparkplug?
>
>
> Correct, although for some people the broken pieces actually have a
> purpose, as described in the answers here:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2012/11/set-468.html#answers
>
That is just amazing. Never would have thought that possible. I guess
the sharp edge of the ceramic is lethal to the glass.
Berdan primers: two holes.
Boxer primers: one hole.
As to the what is it tool, the needle might be separate from the press.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
A deprimer most often needs a small pin to press the primer out however
this thing appears old and some old style cartridges did not have a
center hole for the primer spark to reach the powder. An old military
7mm Mauser round for instance used 2 offset small holes for this
purpose. My friend and I devised a method for removing the primers from
these cartridges using water and a milled to fit steel dowel to
hydraulically force the primers out. A mess and time consuming but we
were teenagers... ;~)
Notice the flash holes on the left cartridge before the modification on
the right.
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=7mm+mauser+primer+flash+hole&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&biw=1175&bih=660&tbm=isch&tbnid=Yx99IcYPsxVqJM:&imgrefurl=http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/25275/Berdan-to-Boxer-Conversion-Method%3Fpage%3D2&docid=w9f5HeyfpM1zmM&imgurl=http://i40.tinypic.com/14c7bpk.jpg&w=629&h=359&ei=Q1WuUNL2L8na2wWBxIFg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=12&vpy=387&dur=620&hovh=169&hovw=296&tx=98&ty=102&sig=117846028462054910447&page=3&tbnh=134&tbnw=227&start=38&ndsp=30&ved=1t:429,r:56,s:0,i:255
Used to press the primer out? The fork allows the primer to go through?
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 2724 - Bottle Corker.
My guess on 2724 is that it's a reloading tool, looks like a shell would fit
into the top part, no idea what the fork at the bottom is for.
On 11/22/2012 9:46 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Stormin Mormon wrote:
>> Used to press the primer out? The fork allows the primer to go
>> through?
>>
>
> Not likely. A deprimer would need a needle which extends inside the casing,
> in order to push out the primer. It would also require an insert for the
> fork area, to hold the base of the casing firmly fixed in position. Not an
> all together bad guess though, as there are hand deprimers which are not so
> very dissimilar from this - with the noted exceptions above.
>
A deprimer most often needs a small pin to press the primer out however
this thing appears old and some old style cartridges did not have a
center hole for the primer spark to reach the powder. An old military
7mm Mauser round for instance used 2 offset small holes for this
purpose. My friend and I devised a method for removing the primers from
these cartridges using water and a milled to fit steel dowel to
hydraulically force the primers out. A mess and time consuming but we
were teenagers... ;~)
Notice the flash holes on the left cartridge before the modification on
the right.
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=7mm+mauser+primer+flash+hole&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&biw=1175&bih=660&tbm=isch&tbnid=Yx99IcYPsxVqJM:&imgrefurl=http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/25275/Berdan-to-Boxer-Conversion-Method%3Fpage%3D2&docid=w9f5HeyfpM1zmM&imgurl=http://i40.tinypic.com/14c7bpk.jpg&w=629&h=359&ei=Q1WuUNL2L8na2wWBxIFg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=12&vpy=387&dur=620&hovh=169&hovw=296&tx=98&ty=102&sig=117846028462054910447&page=3&tbnh=134&tbnw=227&start=38&ndsp=30&ved=1t:429,r:56,s:0,i:255
Rob H. wrote:
>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>>>
>>>
>>> Rob
>> 2721: I don't know how they wired temporarily in the knob-and-tube days.
>> To provide power for a construction crew, this could have kept two
>> circuits from touching where they crossed. Ceramic insulators may or may
>> not have been put through the four holes. On each side of the block, you
>> might put a spacer to keep the two conductors in a circuit farther apart.
>> You'd thread the conductors through the block and spacers, hoist it up
>> where workers wouldn't hit it accidentally, and pull the conductors tight.
>
>
> It isn't for holding conductors, this would be a difficult one to guess, but
> long pieces of wood (possibly bamboo) were held by this item.
>
A clothes dryer?
--
G.W. Ross
With an expense account, anything is
possible.
Posting from my desktop PC, as always.
2719, too dark to get much an idea what we're seeing.
2720, broken porcelean from a spark plug.
2721, too dark to see.
2722, no clue. From the picture of the old vehicle in the background,
something vehicle related? Acetylene gas generator?
2723, no clue.
2724, pictures too dark to see well. Maybe a bottle corker.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I need some help with the last one in this set:
http://55tools.blogspot.com/
Rob
On 11/22/2012 9:02 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> A deprimer most often needs a small pin to press the primer out
>> however this thing appears old and some old style cartridges did not
>> have a center hole for the primer spark to reach the powder. An old
>> military 7mm Mauser round for instance used 2 offset small holes for
>> this purpose. My friend and I devised a method for removing the
>> primers from these cartridges using water and a milled to fit steel
>> dowel to hydraulically force the primers out. A mess and time
>> consuming but we were teenagers... ;~)
>>
>> Notice the flash holes on the left cartridge before the modification
>> on the right.
>>
>
> A minor detail Leon, but it still requires a projection of some sort into
> the casing. It really does not matter if there is a center hole, there is
> still a seated primer that will require some sort of force to extract it.
> The object in Rob's post does not have such a feature.
>
Imagine that there is the possibility, like many other objects posted
here, that the item is not complete.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> '19: ?
> '20: It doesn't look like spark plug insulator... maybe high voltage wire
> tie point for some kind of electronic device, like an oscilloscope?
> '21: looks like something ropes might run through
A rope goes through the top hole but not the others.
> '22: ???
> '23: circle cutter?
Circle cutter is correct.
"Northe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 2722 -- Martian Big Four crystal radio from about 1923. I can't conceive
> why they made it like that, but they did. Frequently appears on e-bay. The
> Martian Special shown on the page below seems far less common.
>
> http://www.radiolaguy.com/Showcase/Crystal/Martian_Radio.htm
>
> Northe
>
Correct, it's definitely a crystal radio but I don't think it's a Martian
brand.
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Used to press the primer out? The fork allows the primer to go
> through?
>
Not likely. A deprimer would need a needle which extends inside the casing,
in order to push out the primer. It would also require an insert for the
fork area, to hold the base of the casing firmly fixed in position. Not an
all together bad guess though, as there are hand deprimers which are not so
very dissimilar from this - with the noted exceptions above.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Leon wrote:
>
> A deprimer most often needs a small pin to press the primer out
> however this thing appears old and some old style cartridges did not
> have a center hole for the primer spark to reach the powder. An old
> military 7mm Mauser round for instance used 2 offset small holes for
> this purpose. My friend and I devised a method for removing the
> primers from these cartridges using water and a milled to fit steel
> dowel to hydraulically force the primers out. A mess and time
> consuming but we were teenagers... ;~)
>
> Notice the flash holes on the left cartridge before the modification
> on the right.
>
A minor detail Leon, but it still requires a projection of some sort into
the casing. It really does not matter if there is a center hole, there is
still a seated primer that will require some sort of force to extract it.
The object in Rob's post does not have such a feature.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Berdan primers: two holes.
> Boxer primers: one hole.
>
> As to the what is it tool, the needle might be separate from the
> press.
>
Could be, I suppose. Does not seem likely to me, but that doesn't make it
impossible.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 11/22/12 4:15 AM, Rob H. wrote:
> I need some help with the last one in this set:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
2721: I don't know how they wired temporarily in the knob-and-tube days.
To provide power for a construction crew, this could have kept two
circuits from touching where they crossed. Ceramic insulators may or
may not have been put through the four holes. On each side of the
block, you might put a spacer to keep the two conductors in a circuit
farther apart. You'd thread the conductors through the block and
spacers, hoist it up where workers wouldn't hit it accidentally, and
pull the conductors tight.
>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>> Rob
> 2721: I don't know how they wired temporarily in the knob-and-tube days.
> To provide power for a construction crew, this could have kept two
> circuits from touching where they crossed. Ceramic insulators may or may
> not have been put through the four holes. On each side of the block, you
> might put a spacer to keep the two conductors in a circuit farther apart.
> You'd thread the conductors through the block and spacers, hoist it up
> where workers wouldn't hit it accidentally, and pull the conductors tight.
It isn't for holding conductors, this would be a difficult one to guess, but
long pieces of wood (possibly bamboo) were held by this item.
> 2723) A tool for making round holes in thin sheet metal. You drill a
> hole to pass the screw, select the right size backing plate to
> go on the other side, tighten the nut, and then turn the upper
> part with a wrench and tighten the nut as the rollers force a
> groove into the metal.
Correct, for use by an electrician or machinist.
Leon wrote:
> On 11/22/2012 9:02 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> A deprimer most often needs a small pin to press the primer out
>>> however this thing appears old and some old style cartridges did not
>>> have a center hole for the primer spark to reach the powder. An old
>>> military 7mm Mauser round for instance used 2 offset small holes for
>>> this purpose. My friend and I devised a method for removing the
>>> primers from these cartridges using water and a milled to fit steel
>>> dowel to hydraulically force the primers out. A mess and time
>>> consuming but we were teenagers... ;~)
>>>
>>> Notice the flash holes on the left cartridge before the modification
>>> on the right.
>>>
>>
>> A minor detail Leon, but it still requires a projection of some sort
>> into the casing. It really does not matter if there is a center
>> hole, there is still a seated primer that will require some sort of
>> force to extract it. The object in Rob's post does not have such a
>> feature.
>
>
> Imagine that there is the possibility, like many other objects posted
> here, that the item is not complete.
That is indeed quite possible, which is why I have not absolutely stated
that it can't be a primer extractor. Looking at the larger pictures it does
look like there are reliefs in the fork which could accept a shell holder.
The device still looks imprecise enough to make me question whether it is a
depriming tool though.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> On 11/22/2012 9:02 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> A deprimer most often needs a small pin to press the primer out
>>>> however this thing appears old and some old style cartridges did not
>>>> have a center hole for the primer spark to reach the powder. An old
>>>> military 7mm Mauser round for instance used 2 offset small holes for
>>>> this purpose. My friend and I devised a method for removing the
>>>> primers from these cartridges using water and a milled to fit steel
>>>> dowel to hydraulically force the primers out. A mess and time
>>>> consuming but we were teenagers... ;~)
>>>>
>>>> Notice the flash holes on the left cartridge before the modification
>>>> on the right.
>>>>
>>>
>>> A minor detail Leon, but it still requires a projection of some sort
>>> into the casing. It really does not matter if there is a center
>>> hole, there is still a seated primer that will require some sort of
>>> force to extract it. The object in Rob's post does not have such a
>>> feature.
>>
>>
>> Imagine that there is the possibility, like many other objects posted
>> here, that the item is not complete.
>
> That is indeed quite possible, which is why I have not absolutely stated
> that it can't be a primer extractor. Looking at the larger pictures it
> does look like there are reliefs in the fork which could accept a shell
> holder. The device still looks imprecise enough to make me question
> whether it is a depriming tool though.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
I cannot say specifically whether this was a reloading tool, but if it was,
the only thing I could think of that would work with a profile like that and
that short of a throw, would be a shotshell crimper.
Missing the die, of course.
Paul K. Dickman
DoN. Nichols wrote:
> On 2012-11-22, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> [ ... ]
>
>>> 2724 - Bottle Corker.
>>
>>
>> My guess on 2724 is that it's a reloading tool, looks like a shell
>> would fit into the top part, no idea what the fork at the bottom is
>> for.
>
> How about for extracting spent primers? Put the shell base
> down, put in a piece which slides in the upper sleeve and has a pin at
> the bottom end to push the primer out between the tines of the fork.
> For this to work, we want the bore of the upper sleeve to be machined
> smooth.
>
> The size is not clear enough to be sure whether it is for
> something smaller and short like handgun cartridges, or somewhat
> larger and longer like shotgun shells.
>
That's what most of the discussion has been about on this particular item
Don. We're waiting for the verdict from Ron.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
>> My guess on 2724 is that it's a reloading tool, looks like a shell would
>> fit
>> into the top part, no idea what the fork at the bottom is for.
>
> How about for extracting spent primers? Put the shell base
> down, put in a piece which slides in the upper sleeve and has a pin at
> the bottom end to push the primer out between the tines of the fork.
> For this to work, we want the bore of the upper sleeve to be machined
> smooth.
>
> The size is not clear enough to be sure whether it is for
> something smaller and short like handgun cartridges, or somewhat larger
> and longer like shotgun shells.
I just heard back from the owner, they said, "The top hole is 1in. And 4
and one half inches to the bottom slot."
> There are test images available for download which are usually a
> bar of gray steps from fully white to fully black. You display one of
> these and adjust the brightness and the contrast so you can just barely
> tell the end steps from the next one in from that end. That should give
> you a standard setting -- and then the problem is whether everyone else
> has bothered to do the same sort of thing. Such is important when
> processing digital images (from digital cameras or scanned from chemical
> process photos).
>
> Even better is if you also have the ability to adjust the gamma
> (the curve from the darkest end to the lightest end) to a standard.
> CRTs have a different gamma by default than LCD or plasma monitors, so
> the adjustment needs to be made for each.
>
> There are things available for calibrating monitors (at least
> one is called a "spider") which is good if you have a driver program for
> it for your OS. They are available for Windows and Macs, but harder to
> find for machines like my Sun workstations. So I have to set the
> contrast and brightness first, and then adjust the gamma by a command
> line option to get a known good image to look good on my screen.
>
> Here is a URL for a site which walks you through the calibration
> (and warns you about thinks to avoid):
>
> <http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/acd-profile.shtml>
>
> It looks like a good one for me to get -- and use at least on my Mac, if
> not on my Suns.
Thanks, I'm heading out tonight but this weekend I'll take a look at some of
the calibration tests on the web.
On 2012-11-22, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need some help with the last one in this set:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
Posting from Rec.crafts.metalworking as always.
2719) Perhaps a coin box for some kind of transportation setup,
like a horse-drawn trolley perhaps?
2720) A screw-on insulator of some sort -- perhaps old post and stud
house wiring, or perhaps telephone wiring from the telephone
pole.
2721) It looks like the top of a fence post -- with holes to allow two
rail fences to meet at right angles. And perhaps specifically
for horses with riders to jump over, before they started making
them with rails which were easy to knock off.
Perhaps sawn off to use as a guide in making a replacement
corner fence post.
2722) It sort of looks like a holder for a galena crystal and a
catwhisker (in the ball-socketed arm above) for a crystal radio.
Is there a coil wound around the barrel? Too late at night for
me to take time to save an image and brighten it up.
Or perhaps there is a coil inside it, given the springs to make
it easy to take apart.
2723) A tool for making round holes in thin sheet metal. You drill a
hole to pass the screw, select the right size backing plate to
go on the other side, tighten the nut, and then turn the upper
part with a wrench and tighten the nut as the rollers force a
groove into the metal.
2724) Perhaps a tool for loading wads and shot into a shotshell and
crimping it closed.
Also -- with additional parts -- for pushing out the spent
primer.
Time to go to bed. I'll read the other suggestions tomorrow
sometime. A busy day today.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
On 2012-11-22, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
[ ... ]
>> 2724 - Bottle Corker.
>
>
> My guess on 2724 is that it's a reloading tool, looks like a shell would fit
> into the top part, no idea what the fork at the bottom is for.
How about for extracting spent primers? Put the shell base
down, put in a piece which slides in the upper sleeve and has a pin at
the bottom end to push the primer out between the tines of the fork.
For this to work, we want the bore of the upper sleeve to be machined
smooth.
The size is not clear enough to be sure whether it is for
something smaller and short like handgun cartridges, or somewhat larger
and longer like shotgun shells.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
On 2012-11-22, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>>>
>>>
>>> Rob
>> 2719 Tender for a miniature train.
>> The pictures seem a little dark this week. Maybe it's my eyes.
>
>
> I lightened up the first, third and last photos, I guess my monitor settings
> are different from most, they looked ok on my screen. Thanks for the
> feedback.
There are test images available for download which are usually a
bar of gray steps from fully white to fully black. You display one of
these and adjust the brightness and the contrast so you can just barely
tell the end steps from the next one in from that end. That should give
you a standard setting -- and then the problem is whether everyone else
has bothered to do the same sort of thing. Such is important when
processing digital images (from digital cameras or scanned from chemical
process photos).
Even better is if you also have the ability to adjust the gamma
(the curve from the darkest end to the lightest end) to a standard.
CRTs have a different gamma by default than LCD or plasma monitors, so
the adjustment needs to be made for each.
There are things available for calibrating monitors (at least
one is called a "spider") which is good if you have a driver program for
it for your OS. They are available for Windows and Macs, but harder to
find for machines like my Sun workstations. So I have to set the
contrast and brightness first, and then adjust the gamma by a command
line option to get a known good image to look good on my screen.
Here is a URL for a site which walks you through the calibration
(and warns you about thinks to avoid):
<http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/acd-profile.shtml>
It looks like a good one for me to get -- and use at least on my Mac, if
not on my Suns.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---