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16/01/2009 5:22 AM

Removing waste before using dovetail jig

Posting again..

I'm curious how you know where to remove the waste before using the
jig. I have Leigh D4- do you have to set the piece in the jig first,
mark the areas to be cut by tracing the template fingers, or what?
You'd have to make an allowance for the guide bushing, so how do you
know where to cut on the bandsaw???

Cheers

On Jan 13, 10:57 pm, "Tom Dacon" <[email protected]> wrote:

- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
> One thing that's not stressed enough when people talk about using dovetail
> jigs is how much it helps to hog out the waste by other means before you
> start cutting wood with the router. Sometimes I'll take a piece to the
> bandsaw and rough out the cut to remove waste. Other times I'll take a
> straight bit and clear out the middle of the area that the dovetail bit will
> finish out. The more contemplative types might use a coping saw. A lot of
> people don't know that it's the chips that carry the heat away from the bit,
> and if you drive it right into hard wood the bits tend to burn or dull
> quickly because the router's cutting wood in a confined space and the heat
> can't escape as easily. So make it easy for the router bits and the wood
> will appreciate it.

> Tom Dacon


This topic has 1 replies

mr

marc rosen

in reply to "[email protected]" on 16/01/2009 5:22 AM

16/01/2009 1:49 PM

Hey Tom,
There is no real need to cut out the waste prior to routing. A router
of the proper size and a sharp bit will do the job. If you are having
difficulty removing all of the waste during the router steps, I think
that your router is improperly sized for the job (too small of a motor
for example) or your bit is worn. I've been using my D4R for more
than a year (and before that, a 20 year old Craftsman template) and
have never felt the need to remove the excess material. I'm using
either a PC 690 or an equaivalent( can't recall the model numbers)
DeWalt fixed based routers. I think they are 1&3/4 hp. I have tried
another PC that was 2+hp but this was one of those older models that
had a "funky" speed controller and it bogged down in the heavier
sections.
No offense meant here, but I think your approach is a waste of time
and could lead to less than optimal joints when the project is done.
On the other hand, I often will make kerfs with a table saw and/or
straight bits when I am making sliding dovetails. I do this
regardless of making the sliders on my D4R, my table mounted router,
or if I am using a freehand, guided router.
=20
Marc



On Jan 16, 8:22=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Posting again..
>
> I'm curious how you know where to remove the waste before using the
> jig. =A0I have Leigh D4- do you have to set the piece in the jig first,
> mark the areas to be cut by tracing the template fingers, or what?
> You'd have to make an allowance for the guide bushing, so how do you
> know where to cut on the bandsaw???
>
> Cheers
>
> On Jan 13, 10:57 pm, "Tom Dacon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> - Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
>
>
>
> > One thing that's not stressed enough when people talk about using dovet=
ail
> > jigs is how much it helps to hog out the waste by other means before yo=
u
> > start cutting wood with the router. Sometimes I'll take a piece to the
> > bandsaw and rough out the cut to remove waste. Other times I'll take a
> > straight bit and clear out the middle of the area that the dovetail bit=
will
> > finish out. The more contemplative types might use a coping saw. A lot =
of
> > people don't know that it's the chips that carry the heat away from the=
bit,
> > and if you drive it right into hard wood the bits tend to burn or dull
> > quickly because the router's cutting wood in a confined space and the h=
eat
> > can't escape as easily. So make it easy for the router bits and the woo=
d
> > will appreciate it.
> > Tom Dacon- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


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