Am I misunderstanding something here? You're quartering the logs to
burn them, right?
Why in the world would you rip them with a chainsaw when you can split
them in much less than one quarter of the time spent ripping? Use a
splitter, a splitting axe, or a wedge and sledge.
Either a troll or I'm missing something here....
H.
H.
Its a gum tree. When I split them on the splitter, it just fragments
into a tangled mess of shredded bits. All other wood I have been
splitting fine, but this one is impossible. I have acquired a few gum
trees that my neighbor has removed - supposedly it burns really well,
and its very dense wood.
Dean
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "hylourgos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Am I misunderstanding something here? You're quartering the logs to
> > burn them, right?
> >
> > Why in the world would you rip them with a chainsaw when you can split
> > them in much less than one quarter of the time spent ripping? Use a
> > splitter, a splitting axe, or a wedge and sledge.
> >
> > Either a troll or I'm missing something here....
>
> Never split a gum tree eh? Hickory is nasty too. If it is larger diameter,
> I cut it down first and then split it.
I can't recall for sure if I have split Gum, but I think so...I worked
as an arborist for several years, and we cut plenty of Gum, but I just
can't remember if I split any of it. The memory is fading fast.
Now, recently I have split Hickory and Red Oak in abundance. As long as
it's dry to begin with, I haven't had too many problems. If a wedge
went through but fibers clung to any side of the split, it was easy
just to pry them apart. Did a good bit of that just last weekend with a
3' dia. Red Oak. Usually I prefer to wait until cold weather to do
this, but it was for a child's "camp-out" theme birthday party, so....
In sum: make sure the wood is dry (let it sit at least a year, try to
keep it out of the rain), and work when it's cold.
H
In article <[email protected]>,
dean <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've been cutting up 2' long gum tree logs into quarters for a furnace,
> cutting along the grain, which is ok with a nice sharp chain. I was
> just wondering if there is a more specialized chain for such purposes?
It's called a rip chain.
--
~ Stay Calm... Be Brave... Wait for the Signs ~
------------------------------------------------------
One site: <http://www.balderstone.ca>
The other site, with ww links<http://www.woodenwabbits.com>
"hylourgos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Am I misunderstanding something here? You're quartering the logs to
> burn them, right?
>
> Why in the world would you rip them with a chainsaw when you can split
> them in much less than one quarter of the time spent ripping? Use a
> splitter, a splitting axe, or a wedge and sledge.
>
> Either a troll or I'm missing something here....
Never split a gum tree eh? Hickory is nasty too. If it is larger diameter,
I cut it down first and then split it.
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu 14 Jul 2005 10:17:23p, "dean" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I've been cutting up 2' long gum tree logs into quarters for a furnace,
>> cutting along the grain, which is ok with a nice sharp chain. I was
>> just wondering if there is a more specialized chain for such purposes?
>>
>
> Yeah, they call it a ripping chain or rip chain. Never seen one, don't
> know
> HOW it's different but it's definitely different.Everybody who sells one
> of
> those kits for turning logs into lumber with your chainsaw sells ripping
> chains or knows where you can get one. The Alaskan chain saw mill comes to
> mind.
>
Ripping chain is for the mills, and the mills _only_, as it's ground
straight across and a bitch to hold cutting endgrain freehand.
Skip-tooth chain will clear long shavings better than standard, though
rocking the cut will keep less bar in the groove, giving better shaving
removal and higher possible speeds. Cut with bar nose down 30 degrees until
halfway, then go to nose up on the near end of the log. Quickly even the
center with the ends, and repeat.
DON'T PULL SHAVINGS OUT WITH THE SAW ON.
dean wrote:
> H.
>
> Its a gum tree. When I split them on the splitter, it just fragments
> into a tangled mess of shredded bits. All other wood I have been
> splitting fine, but this one is impossible. I have acquired a few gum
> trees that my neighbor has removed - supposedly it burns really well,
> and its very dense wood.
>
> Dean
>
If you're burning it in a fireplace make sure you have a well-fitting
fire screen. Sweetgum (if that is what it is) pops and spits like a sack
of firecrackers. And you are right, you can drive a wedge into it
completely out of sight and it is like splitting plywood.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
D.A.M. -- Mothers Against Dyslexia
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"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had a rip chain for my Stihl 2 years now. I use it to rip the maple
> logs I get from neighbors for my lathe work. Never had a lick of trouble
> using it. The log is upright on the ground and I hold the bar at a 45
> degree angle. No pushing of the saw through the wood I just pretty much
> let
> the weight of the saw do the work and it works like a charm.
>
So you're not using it as it's designed. Smart move.
"dean" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all,
>
> I've been cutting up 2' long gum tree logs into quarters for a furnace,
> cutting along the grain, which is ok with a nice sharp chain. I was
> just wondering if there is a more specialized chain for such purposes?
>
Yes, there are many types. I don' tknow the specifics, but a good dealer
will.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html
"dean" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a whole pile of hickory too, although I have not split any of it
> yet, still waiting. Tell me up front, does it break up or shred or what?
>
Hickory get stringy. You smack it with a maul and it will split at the top
and leave interconnected strings all the way down. I've taken the chainsaw
to the larger pieces. I've also have better luck cutting them down from the
16: that I use to half that. Like all wood, they split best after about
week of below freezing temperatures.
The same characteristics that make it tough to split make it very good for
tool handles.
"dean" <[email protected]> wrote in news:1121398639.078288.40240
@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:
> There's no mention of rip chain on that stihl site. What there is is a
> bit confusing, what with the supper pico micro double half skip wibble
> wobble terminology they use.
>
I bet that the local Stihl dealer would know what you want, and be able to
set up your saw for the task.
Mine certainly does. Which is why he does such good business.
Patriarch
On Thu 14 Jul 2005 10:17:23p, "dean" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I've been cutting up 2' long gum tree logs into quarters for a furnace,
> cutting along the grain, which is ok with a nice sharp chain. I was
> just wondering if there is a more specialized chain for such purposes?
>
Yeah, they call it a ripping chain or rip chain. Never seen one, don't know
HOW it's different but it's definitely different.Everybody who sells one of
those kits for turning logs into lumber with your chainsaw sells ripping
chains or knows where you can get one. The Alaskan chain saw mill comes to
mind.
I'd google on it for you but since I don't know what make and model saw you
got, you're probably better for that. :-)
I've had a rip chain for my Stihl 2 years now. I use it to rip the maple
logs I get from neighbors for my lathe work. Never had a lick of trouble
using it. The log is upright on the ground and I hold the bar at a 45
degree angle. No pushing of the saw through the wood I just pretty much let
the weight of the saw do the work and it works like a charm.
"George" <George@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Ripping chain is for the mills, and the mills _only_, as it's ground
> straight across and a bitch to hold cutting endgrain freehand.
>
> Skip-tooth chain will clear long shavings better than standard, though
> rocking the cut will keep less bar in the groove, giving better shaving
> removal and higher possible speeds. Cut with bar nose down 30 degrees
until
> halfway, then go to nose up on the near end of the log. Quickly even the
> center with the ends, and repeat.
>
> DON'T PULL SHAVINGS OUT WITH THE SAW ON.
>
>
Thank you. Safety first!
"George" <George@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've had a rip chain for my Stihl 2 years now. I use it to rip the maple
> > logs I get from neighbors for my lathe work. Never had a lick of
trouble
> > using it. The log is upright on the ground and I hold the bar at a 45
> > degree angle. No pushing of the saw through the wood I just pretty much
> > let
> > the weight of the saw do the work and it works like a charm.
> >
> So you're not using it as it's designed. Smart move.
>
>
On 15 Jul 2005 05:51:49 -0700, "dean" <[email protected]> wrote:
>H.
>
>Its a gum tree. When I split them on the splitter, it just fragments
>into a tangled mess of shredded bits. All other wood I have been
>splitting fine, but this one is impossible. I have acquired a few gum
>trees that my neighbor has removed - supposedly it burns really well,
>and its very dense wood.
>
>Dean
Be careful burning gum, I find that I have to clean my chimney 2 times
during the winter season when I burn it. Also I'd let it season for 2
seasons before burning it.
If your stove has a catalytic converter in it stay away from gum, it
clogs them up really fast.
If you want something that burns really hot and lasts awhile get some
locust, be careful though it gets mighty hot.