I bought some drawer rails at Home Depot for three drawers. The ones that
rest on the side and bottom of the drawer and open about 3/4 of the way.
One went in real nice, but the other two... argh.
Everything is square and level. They weren't level when I first started
having problems because, as it turns out, my basement floor isn't level and
I had them level to the slanted floor! But, I shimmed the cabinet legs so
it is level, then remounted the rails. It didn't help at all.
I have moved the hardware, both sides, back and forth repeatedly. No matter
how I mount it I can not get two of them to close square. I can get either
side to be right, but then the other side is off by a sixteenth.
Am I doing something wrong? If so, I would appreciate suggestions, as I am
at my wit's end.
Or, are they just crappy rails, and off by a sixteenth is about as good as
it gets; and I just got lucky on the one drawer that is right?.
"Toller" wrote in message
> But on mine, the sef closing feature can take it past flush!
If that is the problem you are having, and everything else works fine, and
you have sufficient room, then you may want to consider putting a "screw
stop" at the back of the drawer to limit the backward travel on one or both
sides.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04
"Toller" wrote in message
> I can try remounting everything with the 1/16" gap if you think it is
> important; but I can't see why it would matter. Please explain.
> Thanks.
Take a look at the following, it is not a familiar sight, we are talking
about different things:
http://65.201.81.222/files/slide.jpg
There are two things important about the gap ... if it is the same on both
sides, then our square drawer should close flush to the square sides and/or
face frame; and it allows the drawer to close using the last bit of slope
for the "self closing" feature of these type of drawer slides.
If these are not the kind of drawer slides you are using, then the point is
moot and I apologize for taking your time.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Toller" wrote in message
> > I can try remounting everything with the 1/16" gap if you think it is
> > important; but I can't see why it would matter. Please explain.
> > Thanks.
>
> Take a look at the following, it is not a familiar sight, we are talking
> about different things:
Yes, they are different types of drawers.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/drawer.jpg
I have removed the top drawer, the bottom of the photo is the lower drawer.
You can see that proper adjustment is critical because the drawer fits even
with the surrounding frame.
>
> http://65.201.81.222/files/slide.jpg
>
> There are two things important about the gap ... if it is the same on both
> sides, then our square drawer should close flush to the square sides
and/or
> face frame; and it allows the drawer to close using the last bit of slope
> for the "self closing" feature of these type of drawer slides.
But on mine, the sef closing feature can take it past flush!
>
> If these are not the kind of drawer slides you are using, then the point
is
> moot and I apologize for taking your time.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/13/04
>
>
>
> Are the left and right side of the cabinets square and in the same plane?
Yes, perfectly square. What do you mean, "in the same plane"? Nothing is
crooked.
>
> I've installed a ton of those on face frame cabinets, but I am not sure
from
> your description what/where your problem is.
>
> Face Frame cabinets? What are you attaching the 'cabinet side' part of the
> drawer slides to?
They are "flush fit". However, from your description, I think flush fit is
the same as face frame.
The drawers do are even with the front of the cabinet, with a small margin
on all four sides; right?
> On FF cabinets, I use a single wooden spacer to place each 'cabinet side'
> part from a common reference point, usually the top or bottom of the
> cabinet, or another drawer.
>
> I generally pre-mount these cabinet side parts using a homemade jig, on
> wooden strips cut in thickness to fit the gap between a face frame and the
> cabinet side. The bottom of the slides are then mounted flush with the
> bottom of the drawer opening, and intrude into the drawer opening far
enough
> to leave about a 1/16" gap between the front edge of the slide and the
front
> edge of the FF.
I mounted blocks in the same way as you mounted the strips, and attached the
rails to the blocks.
I actually went about 1/8th onto the frame instead of leaving a 1/16" gap.
Why would that matter? It would only affect how the other part mounts on
the drawer. Or am I misunderstanding something?
All three drawes are mounted the same way, and one is okay.
I made drawers out of 1/2" poplar, and installed them into the chest. I
then positioned 1/2" cherry drawer fronts on the drawers and screwed them in
from the back. I made the cherry about 1/2" larger than the drawers on all
four sides to allow for proper positioning. Frankly, I didn't think I could
position the rails with a precision necessary to get the drawers to fit
otherwise. It may be a little less than professional, but I don't see why
any of this should affect proper functioning.
>
> If your cabinets are square, and you have that same 1/16" gap above on
both
> sides, your drawer should then close flush.
I can try remounting everything with the 1/16" gap if you think it is
important; but I can't see why it would matter. Please explain.
Thanks.
>
On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 01:51:17 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought some drawer rails at Home Depot for three drawers. The ones that
>rest on the side and bottom of the drawer and open about 3/4 of the way.
>One went in real nice, but the other two... argh.
>
>Everything is square and level. They weren't level when I first started
>having problems because, as it turns out, my basement floor isn't level and
>I had them level to the slanted floor! But, I shimmed the cabinet legs so
>it is level, then remounted the rails. It didn't help at all.
>
>I have moved the hardware, both sides, back and forth repeatedly. No matter
>how I mount it I can not get two of them to close square. I can get either
>side to be right, but then the other side is off by a sixteenth.
>
>Am I doing something wrong? If so, I would appreciate suggestions, as I am
>at my wit's end.
>
>Or, are they just crappy rails, and off by a sixteenth is about as good as
>it gets; and I just got lucky on the one drawer that is right?.
>
is your drawer box square?
"Toller" wrote in message
> I bought some drawer rails at Home Depot for three drawers. The ones that
> rest on the side and bottom of the drawer and open about 3/4 of the way.
> One went in real nice, but the other two... argh.
>
> Everything is square and level. They weren't level when I first started
> having problems because, as it turns out, my basement floor isn't level
and
> I had them level to the slanted floor! But, I shimmed the cabinet legs so
> it is level, then remounted the rails. It didn't help at all.
>
> I have moved the hardware, both sides, back and forth repeatedly. No
matter
> how I mount it I can not get two of them to close square. I can get
either
> side to be right, but then the other side is off by a sixteenth.
>
> Am I doing something wrong? If so, I would appreciate suggestions, as I
am
> at my wit's end.
>
> Or, are they just crappy rails, and off by a sixteenth is about as good as
> it gets; and I just got lucky on the one drawer that is right?
Are the left and right side of the cabinets square and in the same plane?
I've installed a ton of those on face frame cabinets, but I am not sure from
your description what/where your problem is.
Face Frame cabinets? What are you attaching the 'cabinet side' part of the
drawer slides to?
On FF cabinets, I use a single wooden spacer to place each 'cabinet side'
part from a common reference point, usually the top or bottom of the
cabinet, or another drawer.
I generally pre-mount these cabinet side parts using a homemade jig, on
wooden strips cut in thickness to fit the gap between a face frame and the
cabinet side. The bottom of the slides are then mounted flush with the
bottom of the drawer opening, and intrude into the drawer opening far enough
to leave about a 1/16" gap between the front edge of the slide and the front
edge of the FF.
If your cabinets are square, and you have that same 1/16" gap above on both
sides, your drawer should then close flush.
You may need to be a bit more specific if your cabinet differs.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04